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Post by wolf on Mar 21, 2010 3:15:32 GMT -5
neweyI figured I'd downsize that photo and then either you or yoshisakan could move it over to the correct panel. Sorry if it seems I'm being a bit pushy here, but heck that graphic is the size of the national debt.
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Post by newey on Mar 21, 2010 7:02:39 GMT -5
Thanks wolf. I modified the picture in case it's a while before Yosh could modify it himself.
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strattones
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Post by strattones on Mar 30, 2010 21:23:25 GMT -5
I feel like this is a dumb question, but I've been looking at the diagram for a couple of weeks and can't figure out how pulling up on the push-pull pot on the volume knob turns on the bridge pickup. In other words, I don't see how the bridge pickup connects to the input on the volume pot in that scenario. From what I can tell, the green wire connected to the top left lug of the volume push-pull pot doesn't connect to anything. Can anyone help me out? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.
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Post by newey on Mar 30, 2010 22:02:50 GMT -5
The green wire at the upper left, when the knob is pulled up, connects to the center common lug, which shows a blue wire going to one of the commons on the 5-way switch. This then puts the bridge in series with whichever pickup(s) are selected on the 5-way switch.
The connection to the volume pot comes at the other end of the series chain. The Orange wire from the bridge phase switch connects to the Br. lug on the opposite side of the 5-way switch, which connects through the other common on the 5-way to the Vol pot CW lug.
OK, the verbal description is a bit hard to follow, but try to trace the signal for both positions of the switch. Note that there is no point in speaking of "+" or "-", once we've used a phase switch to flip the bridge pup's connections around.
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strattones
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Post by strattones on Mar 31, 2010 11:39:15 GMT -5
Thanks Newey. When I tested the 5-way switch I bought with my meter, the two commons did not appear to be connected. If that's the case, I guess I need to buy a different switch or connect the two commons with a wire. Would I also need to connect each lug on one side of the 5-way switch to the corresponding lug on the other side?
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Post by newey on Mar 31, 2010 18:46:58 GMT -5
The commons shouldn't be connected on the switch, unless you jumper them together.
In std Strat wiring, a jumper connects the 2 commons. But in that std wiring, the second pole is only used to select for the 2 tone controls.
Here, the second pole is switching one lead of a pickup, while the other half switches the other lead (call them "signal send" and "signal return" if you must. In this scheme, if you jumper the commons together, you'll just short the pickup to ground, giving no output.
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Post by D2o on May 31, 2010 9:26:45 GMT -5
Hey all, I see through all the posts that you have been busy here in cyber world, creating and helping – great stuff! I have been rather sidelined with activities in the organic world, but wanted to stop by for a second to say hi. I did find time recently to wire my strat according to JohnA / JohnH’s Strat Lover’s “Other” Strat circuit, which I’ve seen some mention of lately (along with JohnH’s Dual Sound circuit), and thought I would share my observations in case anyone is looking to expand the tonal possibilities of their axe. I found this to be an easy mod (relatively speaking – i.e. if I can do it, anyone can do it). I found it to offer a lot in return for very little other than the cost of a couple of push pulls and some wiring time. I also decided that I wanted one sound that did not seem to be available : B+N. In order to accomplish this I simply added a DPDT wired as a neck on-off, so I have B+N when the switch is “on” in the B position (actually, I inadvertently now have B+M+N when the switch is “on” in the B+M position). While I was busy drilling a hole for the DPDT in my pick-guard, I remembered ChrisK’s Woman Tone circuit and threw a couple of those in for good measure. FWIW, I have found .082uF and .056uF, with the resulting free .033uF, to be nice … and I found that values that get much lower seem to have so little difference that I’m not convinced that’s it’s worth it … … other than you end up with more cool toggle switches on your axe! Hey! If I can’t impress you with my wiring skills, at least I can confound you with multiple toggle switches! I had to route out the cavity to fit the push pulls, and the added switches and wires means it is a pretty tight fit in there … but I now have all the sounds and tonal variations I could reasonably ask for from this circuit. I have tried to re-draw JohnH’s diagram to include the DPDT neck-on and the two Woman Tones. You can see the expanded circuit below – at least I think I’ve included everything (sorry for the poor image quality). You can have a listen to the different sounds here ... I hope (click on PP test .....). The order of pickups in the recording is [p.p.'s down ; parallel "+" ] B ; B+M ; M ; M+N ; N (1 sec pause) B+N (1 sec pause) ; [series p.p. UP ; series "*"] B ; B ; B*M ; B*(M+N) ; B*N ; [series and phase p.p.'s UP ; out of phase "-"] ; B ; B ; -B*M ; -B*(M+N) ; -B*N. I have attempted to include a very brief comparison of the various tone switch positions, but it reveals nothing ... sorry. It does work - but is much more effective in person – I just didn’t find the “sweet spot” for the tone switch in my rush to get this recording done. Cheers, D2o
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Post by newey on May 31, 2010 22:54:24 GMT -5
D2o-
Nice job, and nice of you to stop by, despite being AWOL and everything! ;D
It seems like everyone who tries this mod is pretty happy with it.
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Post by JohnH on Jun 1, 2010 6:23:58 GMT -5
very nice, and thanks for posting the sound clips. Would you mind if I also linked them to the schematic poston page 1?
cheers
John
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Post by D2o on Jun 1, 2010 13:16:55 GMT -5
D2o- Nice job, and nice of you to stop by, despite being AWOL and everything! ;D very nice, and thanks for posting the sound clips. Would you mind if I also linked them to the schematic poston page 1? cheers John Thanks, Newey & John John, please do - it would be an honour! Cheers, D2o
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Post by miltonguthrie on Jun 20, 2010 7:10:48 GMT -5
Hi to everybody, i own a modified H1 strat. Now it has the blender circuit installed, with the thirs know as a blender.
I would like to add now the series/parallel and out phase mod, could that be possible keeping the blender knob?
Cheers
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Post by newey on Jun 20, 2010 9:11:14 GMT -5
milton-
Hello and welcome!
Your question, strictly speaking, does not belong here, since it is a general inquiry, not specific to the Strat-Lover's Strat (Although the SLS does have series/parallel and phase, it has other things going on as well).
Don't worry about it, though. We give newcomers some leeway.
I can foresee that the answers to your questions are going to involve some discussion, so please repost your question in the general "Electronics and Wiring" area. More people will likely see it there as well.
When you repost, please also answer the following:
Do you care about the original appearance of the guitar, or are you willing to add extra switching? And, do you insist on having all possible series combos of your 3 pickups, or just some? Same with phase- all possible out-of-phase options or just one or two?
And most importantly, do you want the blender to work when you're in series mode, or can it be disabled or bypassed, when in series?
The "blending in series" is going to be the tricky part, if that's what you want.
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Post by miltonguthrie on Jun 20, 2010 11:49:27 GMT -5
Thanks newey, question reposted on the right place
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Post by dannyhill on Dec 3, 2011 20:38:13 GMT -5
Hi,
What about putting a 'full size' 1MEG vol pot instead?
D
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Post by JohnH on Dec 3, 2011 23:35:56 GMT -5
Hi, What about putting a 'full size' 1MEG vol pot instead? D No reason why you shouldnt, but its avery high value for a Strat. It might be very trebly at full volume, but also very susceptable to dulling when you turn down volume.
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Post by dannyhill on Mar 5, 2012 5:47:51 GMT -5
Hi guys,
I made this circuit up as is as posted by D2O, expcet I used a third pushpull instead of a switch. Save for a scratchy pot and placing the bridge -ve in the wrong place I got it right the first time around. Many thanks to Newey and JohnH for babysitting my first mod a few months back! I think I've upped to 'intermediate solder flinger', although 3 wire solders to DPDT lugs are still 'challenging'.
As advised by Deaf Eddie on two other builds, I have put a small cap between pups instead of a jumper wire to knock out some fatness in serial positons. Just wondering where I would put them in this build? I'm thinking, the light blue wire between upper left lug of the DPDT on the neck tone pot and the lower right lug of the DPDT on the volume pot. Right? Thats if I can fit anymore bits in the cavity. Why do they make them so small? ;D Thanks as ever in advance,
DH
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Post by dannyhill on Mar 7, 2012 7:14:07 GMT -5
BUMP
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Post by JohnH on Mar 7, 2012 14:29:18 GMT -5
hi DH - well done. Ill take a look at your question, but it might be at the weekend cheers
John
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Post by dannyhill on Mar 8, 2012 4:38:05 GMT -5
Hi John,
Thanks for that! And thanks Newey for replying to my message. I know it was frustrating but I learnt so much from you last year.
DH
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Post by JohnH on Mar 9, 2012 15:04:02 GMT -5
OK, I'm not quite sure what Deaf Eddy's version would be, but to get the same effect, and a valuable enhancement to the SLS design, you could do this: The only change is the addition of the dashed red wire, on the series tone control. It makes this control enhanced, in a way that I have been showing on all my designs since I first tried it, wherever it may work, because it is a cool effect and makes the tone pot do something useful. It will hopefully be particularly interesting here since you have the tone cap selection switches. What it does, in series mode only, is to bypass the neck and/or middle pups with the series tone cap, only when the tone pot is at 10. This lets more highs from the bridge pickup to get through, keeping the low-end weight of the N/M pups. The result is a different, brighter series sound. As you turn down from 10 to 9 (on a log tone pot), the effect drops off and you have the normal series sound, then treble reduction as usual below that. The effect will probably be most marked if you select the largest available tone cap value on the cap selector. Forgetting the electrical theory, the tone pot simply has an extended more even action, gradually making the sound brighter as you turn it up to 10, instead of the usual arrangement where the tone pot doesn't do much above 5 or 6. Well worth a try IMO cheers John
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Post by dannyhill on Mar 9, 2012 19:16:23 GMT -5
Looks good John, look forward to trying that. Meanwhile, another mad thought. Any chance that neck phase change can be put on the middle tone pot? That way can get out of phase between neck and middle. I would then add a switch for adding neck in parallel. Cheers,
DH
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Post by JohnH on Mar 9, 2012 22:25:40 GMT -5
Currently, the phase switch is on the bridge. I originally put it there because that gives the most options, the bridge being the one that goes into series with the others when in series mode. Also, it gives access to the best (and the only worthwhile IMO) phased sound, which is Bridge out of phase with Neck, in series. Its hum cancelling with standard pickups, and having the greatest spread of position, the least thin sounding, wit hreasonable output volume being in series. But you can have the phase switch mounted on any pot, acting on any pickup that you chose. The pup goes to the phase switch first, then onwards to the rest of the wiring. So you can have it on the Middle, but that would be 3rd choice in my view, Neck would be better if you didnt want Bridge.
John
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 10, 2012 10:29:49 GMT -5
Also, it gives access to the best (and the only worthwhile IMO) phased sound, which is Bridge out of phase with Neck, in series. A qualified "yes" to that. In the context of THIS application, it's definitely the best choice. Bridge out of phase with Neck, in series. Its hum cancelling with standard pickups, and having the greatest spread of position, the least thin sounding, with reasonable output volume being in series. (color added for emphasis)Absolute YES to all of that. Some might argue in favor one of Brian May's signature tones: (start @ 3:32) He uses Neck in series with Middle, out of phase. Sounds pretty good, right? Brian's guitar is wired so that any pickups selected are in series with each other. Brian's guitar has pickups that are ALL of the same magnetic polarity. No hum-canceling when the pickups are in phase. Hum-canceling when the pickups are out of phase. Since out of phase pickups sound weaker, this is when hum-canceling is extremely important. The Stratlover's Strat will never get you there, even if you put the phase switch on the neck or middle pickup. The neck is never in series with the middle. Even if you change the structure so that the neck is the one that's place in series (and has the phase switch), the middle pickup has the opposite magnetic polarity. It won't hum-cancel when out of phase with the neck or bridge. I think the circuit as-is achieves the best choices when using a RWRP for the middle pickup, while maintaining the original 5 selections.
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Post by D2o on Mar 10, 2012 15:54:32 GMT -5
hi John, I just tried the extra wire you suggested.
My usual experience with tone controls is they don't do much until they suddenly drop-off when the knob gets to around 1 or 2.
Maybe it's just my imagination, but the series tone control now seems much smoother and responsive right from the get-go. A worthwhile payoff for a few minutes with the soldering iron.
Many thanks, John - nice call. D2o
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Post by JohnH on Mar 10, 2012 17:12:18 GMT -5
D2o - well thats good to hear. This type of tone pot wiring works in series modes, and its best if the bassier pickups are the ones being bypassed by the caps when at 10. The SLS is ideal for this.
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Post by haydukej on Mar 18, 2012 21:20:38 GMT -5
Hello, first time post here. I've heard great things about this site and have enjoyed browsing all the threads. Just attempted my first strat mod and went with the SLS. I have an issue when I select position 2 on the 5-way and have either the series switch out/phase in and/or have both series/phase out I don't get any sound. Based on the table on page 1 this should engage the bridge only, so it doesn't look like I'm losing a critical sound option, but I was wondering if there might be a common mistake I might have made to produce this. Everything else seems to have turned out fine. Any areas I can check for errors? I used the 500k pots from Stew-Mac and running texas specials if that helps. I guess if all else fails I have an effective mute option now available on the guitar.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 19, 2012 18:47:44 GMT -5
Hello, first time post here. I've heard great things about this site and have enjoyed browsing all the threads. Just attempted my first strat mod and went with the SLS. I have an issue when I select position 2 on the 5-way and have either the series switch out/phase in and/or have both series/phase out I don't get any sound. Based on the table on page 1 this should engage the bridge only, so it doesn't look like I'm losing a critical sound option, but I was wondering if there might be a common mistake I might have made to produce this. Everything else seems to have turned out fine. Any areas I can check for errors? I used the 500k pots from Stew-Mac and running texas specials if that helps. I guess if all else fails I have an effective mute option now available on the guitar.Hi, and welcome to Guitarnutz2. It looks like your post fell through the cracks. Sorry about that. With the series switch pulled, the Bridge pickup is put in series with whatever other pickup is selected. In positions 1 AND 2, no other pickup is selected. So the (+) wire of the bridge pickup is connected through the selector directly to the volume control. Does the bridge pickup work in series mode when the selector is in position 1? If not, we can test for a wiring error. But if it works in position 1 and does not work in position 2, there is likely a problem with your 5way.
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Post by haydukej on Mar 20, 2012 8:32:09 GMT -5
Position 1 of the 5way works with all combinations of the switches, and position 2 works with all parallel options (in/out phase) but not on any series options.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 20, 2012 8:53:24 GMT -5
position 2 works with all parallel options (in/out phase) but not on any series options. Okay, let's consider this: In the parallel mode, position 2 has both bridge and middle pickups selected. If there is a problem with continuity between the bridge lug and wiper in position 2, the middle pickup will still work. Can you check to see whether both pickups are working in position 2 (parallel) or if just the middle is working? You can use a screwdriver to gently touch the polepieces. But be careful. It should make a LOUD thump. Be sure to keep the volume on your amp down.
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Post by haydukej on Mar 20, 2012 14:32:47 GMT -5
I used my lunch break time wisely and went home to troubleshoot the guitar. In parallel mode on position 2, a thump was produced on both the middle and bridge pickup. Which is good that that works, but probably doesn't help ID the cause of the series issue. Any other suggestions?
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