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Post by Yew on Jan 4, 2011 12:23:59 GMT -5
Hey guys, Im finally getting round to making my Filter'tron frankenstrat Ive got an old, fake strat (a highly useful base for a frankenstrat) a Gretsch filtertron pickup, And im going to go and pick up a few lengths of wire (to make it 4 conductor) a couple of Push/pull pots, and hopefully can figure out what to do with the pickugard A few picks with the pics with the pup mounted  Im going to my local music shop to see if i can get soem parts for the trem ( its missing a few screws) as well as whatever i said up there. (P/P pots, switches, strings) and then i cna have fun trying to find the jack plate cover =.= If you had a single humbucker, and just three switches for it, what options would you have? im thinking series/parallel and a coil tap. But I dont know about the last one? |
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Post by Yew on Jan 4, 2011 12:26:33 GMT -5
Oh and i need to work out what to do with the pickguard, i Have an SSS Pickguard, but i need to convert it to a filtertron guard, with as little effort as possible.
Im currently thinking of cutting it vertically (with respect to the above pic) just to the right of the pickup, Leaving the cavities exposed
NB: I have moved the pickup to the bridge position now
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Jan 4, 2011 18:42:25 GMT -5
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Post by asmith on Jan 4, 2011 18:48:12 GMT -5
I'd add a Series/Parallel switch to the volume control, then a Spin-A-Split control to achieve a 'variable coil tap,' and wire the two together.  Then a standard tone control for your third switch. |
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Post by newey on Jan 4, 2011 22:16:58 GMT -5
As little effort as possible, to my mind, means buying a blank Strat pickguard and cutting a Filtertron sized hole in it. This does involve the effort of reaching into your wallet for £12, however. This would also look a lot better than trying to do up a 3-pup one in a half-Aztec fashion. Page all the way down here: axesrus.uk |
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Post by Yew on Jan 5, 2011 5:59:35 GMT -5
Spin-A-Split control to achieve a 'variable coil tap,' and wire the two together. so for the variable coil tap, do you just put a pot between the Pup wire, and the ground, so that you can adjust how much signal from one pup you get? As a note, The axesrus brand pickups are made by the same people that make most GFS pickups, Artec Sounds, so if you are struggling to get GFS in the UK, you should get some very similar pups there. (some models look REALLY similar to irongear pups too, im looking into that) Im gonna pop down to my local shop and see if they can order some kit in for me. the delivery system at my flat is stuuuuuuupidd |
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Post by asmith on Jan 5, 2011 9:38:54 GMT -5
I've used the Seymour Duncan colours for the humbucker wires in the diagram. If you wire it like shown, with two DPDTs, the right-most switch changes the pickup between series and parallel, and the leftmost switch (with the attached pot shown above it on the diagram) turns on the variable coil tap. If you're in series mode, it varies how much signal goes to ground from the series wire, and if you're in parallel mode, it acts as a separate volume control for the South pickup ( red and green wires). So essentially, it's a variable coil tap that works regardless of whether your pickup is in series or parallel. This is all in theory. I haven't built this yet. But so far nobody sees any reason why it shouldn't work. Here's JohnH surmising what pot, resistor and cap values are probably the best bet for the system. Gah! You'll get the shop's super-profit-margins thrown on top of it and pay through the nose. Would it not be simpler to get it all delivered to a friend? |
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Post by Yew on Jan 5, 2011 13:51:57 GMT -5
It could be easier, but my debit card doesnt like paypal. and most Eshops have that somwhere along the line
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Post by 4real on Jan 12, 2011 18:15:29 GMT -5
I like my "spin-select" control on my new strat...  spin in the HB, pulling the control selects which coil you are spinning out of... However, this pickup might not sound that great split or be that different between splits. ... The 'frankenstrat' thing though tends to be more about making something that works and adaptable and this guitar looks more suitable for this. Perhaps it would be 'better' to leave off a pickguard completely, add some foam (cut up a sponge if on a pinch) and put it under the pickup for 'springing and use some smaller screws or a bracket to mount the pickup directly to the wood from above. This allows you to have a guitar that you can test all kinds of wiring ideas on. For the bridge...it's looking a little old and cheap...on my messing with such guitars in the past I used suitable cheap replacement bridges...watch the string spread as most cheap strats have narrower bridges and necks.  This is my 'test guitar'..the 'pickguard' is a bit of plywood. I actually use decently strong but cheap foam backed double sided tape to 'stick' pickups anywhere in it's bath tub route. The pickups are screwed to bits of ply that are adjusted with stacked up foam tape here. But if you wanted to go a more EVH frankenstrat kind of way...follow his example perhaps. You never know when you might come across another pickup you want to test or some crazy wiring idea that you could use such a guitar to test it out on. |
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Post by Yew on Feb 20, 2011 10:46:38 GMT -5
Good, news, I have to go ahead to spend a little money on this guitar now two words come to mind. Broard Bucker. Would it be possible to make one of these with two P90's? run two p90's in a telecaster wiring, with a broardbucker switch?
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Post by newey on Feb 20, 2011 12:46:32 GMT -5
It certainly would, and I think this was suggested earlier in the thread.
Borsanova's original Broadbucker idea was a tone pot in between the series connection; the switch idea replaces the pot with a fixed cap.
Either way, substituting 2 P90s for the 2 coils of a single HB is just a matter of re-visualizing the same diagram.
So what happened to the Filtertron concept?
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Post by Yew on Feb 20, 2011 14:22:04 GMT -5
I played an epiphone solidbody with a P90 earlier, I liked the tone, and i can actually get aPG for it in the uk.
also its far too fussy to mount it properly, and i cant get hold of any Humbucker sized ones (that i can safely assume will be good, in my price range)
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Post by Yew on Feb 20, 2011 14:37:15 GMT -5
Oh and this looks awesome (needs more pups)  |
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Post by asmith on Feb 20, 2011 20:01:23 GMT -5
Borsanova's original Broadbucker idea was a tone pot in between the series connection; the switch idea replaces the pot with a fixed cap. Yew, if you're digging the broadbucker idea, and you like the series/parallel option between two coils, be them two coils of a humbucker or two P90s, I think you'd like to see this.  That's the Series/Parallel Spin-A-Split control, but instead of just swapping between 'On' and 'Off' there's a few more options. In Series mode, the Spin-A-Split swaps between a Tone control and a Volume control for the South coil/pickup. When the pot acts as a Tone control, that's Broadbucker mode. In Parallel mode, the Spin-A-Split swaps between a Master Tone control and a Volume control for the South coil/pickup. Click here or the image above to see the whole shebang of an explanation about this module. Happy soldering. Yeah, what happened to the Filtertron? |
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Post by Yew on Feb 21, 2011 8:56:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the help guys, im trying to find a way of changing between the parallel connection of a tele switch, to a series broardbucker config, however i cant work out how to do it with as few switches as possible. maybe i could use a strat 5 way switch somehow, to allow me Neck, bridge, series, parallel, broardbucker? but i think that would need too much cleverness for me to have Actually, Ive just thought that it could be possible, i have to get to a lecture, but i might have had a brilliant idea, ill take a sketchpad  |
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Post by Yew on Feb 22, 2011 11:50:34 GMT -5
Nope, my brilliant idea never happened. However Ive been thinking, would 2 p90's actually sound good in a broardbucker ( bridge and neck) if anything it seems to me that I would have to find away of cutting some of the lowest bass out of the neck
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Post by Yew on Mar 1, 2011 8:50:08 GMT -5
Bad news, since ive had some unexpected costs come up  It looks like the Filtertron is back on Im thinking series/parallel switch, broardbucker/coil tap switch (with a pot to vary the amount) then a volume and tone pot. using push/pulls |
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Post by Yew on Mar 1, 2011 17:09:52 GMT -5
 I know its blurry i saved it in the wrong format |
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 1, 2011 17:14:38 GMT -5
That'll work. The cap could just as easily go between the two top lugs and accomplish the same thing. Values for these are generally in the range of standard tone caps, but experimentation is the best way to learn.
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Post by Yew on Mar 1, 2011 18:30:24 GMT -5
Thanks ash , Im thinking a 0.22 cap, as the pot should be able to reduce that value to sound similar to a 0.47 if needed (not quite, but not too far) I didnt realise the cap could go between the lugs, and that you could do it with a SPDT switch, but I was concerned with accidentally shorting out the guitar with the coil tap switch... and you have DPDT's on P/P pots anyway Then Im just thinking a standard volume/tone control, and I have 2 500k pots laying around, and can get a Push pull. I think Ill have the 'fader' on one pot, and the Push/pull on another though, seems more ergonomic to me.. |
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Post by Yew on Mar 1, 2011 18:40:57 GMT -5
another thought, if you used a dpdt, could you make a circuit that could put both a series and parallel connection(through a switch) into a coil cut? I think I could find a way to do it..
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Post by ashcatlt on Mar 1, 2011 20:45:47 GMT -5
I didn't actually look far enough to see it would work on a single pole, but yeah. SPST would work for that.
Not sure what your last post is shooting for. (?). You want to be able to cut a coil whether the HB is in local series or parallel?
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Post by Yew on Mar 2, 2011 3:50:11 GMT -5
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Post by Yew on Mar 2, 2011 5:43:20 GMT -5
I thinm Ive worked out a way.  In instead of just grounding one coil, it is isolated from the circuit (well the hot end is) and then grounded, only thing is im not sure if this would work with a variable coil tap |
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Post by newey on Mar 2, 2011 6:34:59 GMT -5
Yep, that will work. I didn't realize you were going to use 2 switches. One DPDT On-On-On switch (i.e., 3 position switch) can give you series/parallel/coil cut. If you use 2 switches, you could use the binary tree scheme to cut either coil. As shown, this will work with SPDT switches (On-On):  (Second time today I've had occasion to post that!) |
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Post by Yew on Mar 2, 2011 7:08:50 GMT -5
Thanks Newey, although that diagram looks far too complicated for me, but is probably what is in SD's tripleshot thingy
Can you think of any way to vary the amount of coil tap? maybe using a pot to become a potential divider? putting some of the current to ground, with the rest going back into the circuit? I suppose that could work in series, but I dont think it would in parallel. But then again, you couldnt have a parallel broardbucker and a coil tap wouldnt be that useful....
sorry thats really unstructured, im thinking about it... and also thinking of getting some lunch....
Or what about an inverse broardbucker, with the highs in series, and the lows in parallel... could be a good sound...... wait, that wouldnt work, why would the highs go through the second coils resistance, when they could just go to the hot? Although....... maybe a 500k pot could make going through the coil easier for the highs than going through the pot. now to work out a way to do it on one dpdt switch
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Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 2, 2011 7:10:43 GMT -5
Maybe that Binary Tree should be a bigger sticky ;D
it also frees up the second side of the DPDT switch
you could add a .01uf cap to the neck's phase switch
this will warm up the bottom end when OoP and provide a low cut when using neck alone.
The neck with a low cut sounds good with some distortions and fuzzies
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Post by Yew on Mar 2, 2011 8:38:03 GMT -5
Just thinking, more clearly now If I Put a pot that links the 'earth' on my above diagram to the black wire on my coil tap/broardbucker diagram, then that would act as a standard coil tap/broardbucker in series, and could give me more highs in parallel (to top end of the coil would be in parallel, and the low end hanging disconnected. |
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Post by Yew on Mar 2, 2011 8:40:05 GMT -5
Also, why do I have a feeling that I might be accidentally inventing bassanovas broardbucker diagram again? I think im somwhere in the ball park here, three dpdt switches....
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Post by asmith on Mar 2, 2011 11:59:48 GMT -5
So you want a series/parallel switch, and a coil tap that works on both. That was posted on the first page.And possibly a tone control as well to get those broadbucker sounds. If you're happy with a push/pull pot that gives you either a tone control or a variable coil tap, then everything you want was explained in this post.I'm using Seymour Duncan colours. To reiterate. That's a series/parallel switch and a tone control/variable coil tap switch. In series mode, the tone control works on the series link between the North and South coils, to get a variable broadbucker control. In parallel mode, it's a universal tone control. The variable coil tap works the same in both series and parallel mode. If you want series/parallel/variable coil tap with a separate tone control that's always on for just one coil, that's just a quick mutation of the first scheme. You're working it out yourself, so if you don't want to spoil the answer I'll post it as a link. A link. (I think. This one is not as vetted yet, so better not to hedge a bet.) Or am I missing what you're really after? |
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It looks like the Filtertron is back on 
