sonosonny
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Post by sonosonny on Sept 26, 2011 21:25:55 GMT -5
I am converting a 24 fret neck to a 22 fret neck for Runewalker.
Rune performed this mod on a guitar a few years ago and he wants me to “share in the experience”.
I know I need to measure from the 12th fret to the bridge (D saddle configured to the middle of the Bridge) to determine the exact place to cut the neck heel.
The fret board cutting location is pretty obvious. I want to make sure I get this right for optimum bridge intonation tweaking. This will be the standard Gibby Les Paul scale.
Looking for any hints or instructions on this project. The body is an Alder PRS style bolt on and the neck has the tightest Rosewood grain we have ever seen. The rosewood rivals ebony on the tightness of its grain.
C1 and other Nutz, I need you now.
As always appreciate any suggestions and knowledge from previous experience with this type of endeavor.
Thanks Son-O-Sonny (SOS)
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 26, 2011 23:40:17 GMT -5
I am converting a 24 fret neck to a 22 fret neck... First question. Why? Second question. What is the scale of the 24 fret neck and what was the scale of the PRS style body? Third question. What type of bridge do you have on this guitar? Since you said PRS I'm guessing Tone-o-matic, but just in case, straighten me out. Fourth question. Are you changing the scale, as in re-fret, or just lopping off two frets? Fifth question. Is this the original body for this neck, or is it an aftermarket? Sixth question. Is there enough meat on the heel to make a good purchase at the heel into the neck pocket of this body? Also, as you shorten the neck you potentially change the width of the neck heel. Depending on the width of the current neck pocket you may encounter a little slop in the fit once the heel has been cut. Seventh question. Why? And when measuring scale you want to work from the front of the nut. Taking incremental measurements as you go is a recipe for disaster. Getting into the rest of your questions would be guessing, so give me a little more information...so I can ask you more questions... Happy Trails Cynical One
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sonosonny
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Post by sonosonny on Sept 27, 2011 13:30:49 GMT -5
Questions from C1 -- Answers from SOS First question. Why? Rune has a plethora of parts and this will be a build to sell unless either of us fall in love with it. He picked these up for next to nothing. It is a 2nd BC Rich Neck Bronze Series neck that has never been installed. The PRS style Cort body (M500) is an aftermarket part. The neck fits the pocket but will cover the neck PUP pocket in the current 24 fret config…Second question. What is the scale of the 24 fret neck and what was the scale of the PRS style body? Fret side of nut to middle of the 12th fret - 12 7/16” (12 3/8" to nut side front of 12th fret) ......also 31.5 cm to middle of 12th fret ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The body, I believe is a Cort knockoff of a PRS. You can see here it has a 22 fret neck.Third question. What type of bridge do you have on this guitar? Since you said PRS I'm guessing Tone-o-matic, but just in case, straighten me out. Yep Tune-OFourth question. Are you changing the scale, as in re-fret, or just lopping off two frets? Lopping off two frets and part of the neck heel.Fifth question. Is this the original body for this neck, or is it an aftermarket? Cort body (looks new to me) and BCRich neck (never installed, no screw holes)Sixth question. Is there enough meat on the heel to make a good purchase at the heel into the neck pocket of this body? Also, as you shorten the neck you potentially change the width of the neck heel. Depending on the width of the current neck pocket you may encounter a little slop in the fit once the heel has been cut. Plenty of meat for a good purchase in the pocket.Seventh question. Why? Liquidating parts. Getting experience in guitar construction, enjoyment, make a little $ if the conversion is successful and if someone wants it.All excellent questions which are giving me insight into this project. As always, I tip my hat to C1 in appreciation of his knowledge and experience in these areas. SOS
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Post by Runewalker on Sept 27, 2011 16:07:19 GMT -5
Why? ya must be jokin'.... Why not is the answer of course. I ran accross a deal a few years back on 24 fret necks and have adapted many to 22 fret oriented bods where I did not want to change the bridge position. Or I had a 24 fret neck for a 22 fret bod but with a different scale in the original neck. Here is an example: I also did a SG style bod with a Jackson shark tooth style neck - vicious, but don't have a pix handy Not that big a deal to do. Measure thrice, cut once. Son-o just thought it might be an interesting project for discussion here. He is helping me convert my parts bin into guitars. Kinda wish Son-o would stop doing such a stellar job ---- having trouble letting go of the new/old beasts. RW
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 27, 2011 17:58:00 GMT -5
Hey Rune, long time no see. And I'm as guilty as the next guy for cannibalizing parts to make a whole guitar...sold inventory is.
I assume this 24 fret neck has a shelf or extended fingerboard at the end, which is why it runs into the neck pickup. If that's the case then just put the neck in the pocket, mark it on the back of the finger board, subtract for the pickup rings and just cut the fingerboard. ...or am I missing something?
I know I've posted this information a few times, but don't remember where. But this is important because you want all of your measurements to work from the nut and not incrementally as you go. So, in the interest of more information then you asked for...let's post it again...
Scale length: 24.75 Nut to Bridge\Saddles - 24 Frets
Distance from front of the nut (or zero fret) to fret 1: 1.389 2: 2.7 3: 3.938 4: 5.106 5: 6.208 6: 7.249 7: 8.231 8: 9.158 9: 10.034 10: 10.86 11: 11.639 12: 12.375 13: 13.07 14: 13.725 15: 14.344 16: 14.928 17: 15.479 18: 16 19: 16.491 20: 16.954 21: 17.392 22: 17.805 23: 18.195 24: 18.562
Scale length: 24.75 Nut to Bridge\Saddles - 22 Frets
Distance from front of the nut (or zero fret) to fret 1: 1.389 2: 2.7 3: 3.938 4: 5.106 5: 6.208 6: 7.249 7: 8.231 8: 9.158 9: 10.034 10: 10.86 11: 11.639 12: 12.375 13: 13.07 14: 13.725 15: 14.344 16: 14.928 17: 15.479 18: 16 19: 16.491 20: 16.954 21: 17.392 22: 17.805
As you can see, this only gives you a few hairs over 3/4" back to accommodate the neck pickup. Is that enough?
And I would agree that your Cort body is probably their M Series...which, conveniently enough, is also a 24-3/4" scale.
Now, if you want to get real sexy, and you have access to a scroll saw, you can lose the plastic trim rings and make a 3 sides ring with a gap on the 4th side to accommodate the fingerboard...if there's enough room in the pickup routed cavity... You'll have to make another one to match for the bridge, but this gets some decent cool points if done right.
One last question. If you pull the neck pickup, insert the new neck and measure from the front of the nut to the saddles do you get a 24.75" scale measurement?
This looks a lot more straightforward now. Relatively simple, and since you're probably going to do the threaded inserts on the neck it should be more then solid enough if you don't have to actually cut into the heel.
And since you've got inventory laying around...you wouldn't happen to have a fixed Schaller roller bridge for a Strat type guitar laying around you'd like to part with, do ya?
Happy Trails
Cynical One
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sonosonny
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Post by sonosonny on Sept 27, 2011 18:10:37 GMT -5
Here is the requested pic of another 24 to 22 fret conversion by Rune. Has the JP Mod. Credit to Rune for the Photoshopping of the pic... The guitar plays GREAT. I installed the neck inserts and hopefully dialed it in for optimum playability. Son-O
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Post by Runewalker on Sept 30, 2011 8:26:53 GMT -5
thx for the nod # One Cynic. I suggested to Son-o that he pose the questions about this project here to elicit discussion, but let me draw attention to what I consider the critical issues: It has been some time since I did these "conversions," but after the scale of the neck was determined (24.75" of 25.5" in those cases) I recall the critical issues being: - That the principal root for the measurement anchor was the bridge, since it was not movable in the inventory bodies used without unsightly drills and fills.
- Deciding which saddle should be the key one from which to establish the reference measure.
I converted the other guitars 3-5 yrs ago ... at the time when I was researching the idea there were no tutorials, perhaps confirming C1's "what'r ya thanking" "why?" question. But the research I did seemed to emphasize the critical point of bridge to fret dimension to be the 12 fret, and not the measurement from bridge to nut. I was not sure why that seemed to be the conventional wisdom, but that is what the research turned up at the time. I seem to remember the measurement from 12 fret to bridge being 12 3/8th inches for a 24.75" scale neck. But that is fuzzy in the cortext. Thanks C1 for the dimension tables for a 24.75" scale neck. Do you also have the same tables for a 25.5" scale neck? I have done 3 maybe 4 of these conversions ... can't remember. All but one came out spot on with enough saddle travel to intonate all strings. So the learnings are from the one that I cut too short and had to adjust with a spacer at the heel. The second bullet point above is the perplexing one. Since tunos are not perfectly perpendicular to the neck, the question of which saddle to use to establish the reference measurement to the 12 fret, then subsequently to determine the heel cut point is the critical quandary. I have sort of settled on using the B string saddle as it is usually intonated at a mid distance between the high E and the G. However another approach would be to set the G or D saddle at the midpoint of the saddle travel and use that point to measure to the 12 fret position. So those 2 questions are the ones left unresolved: Which saddle on both a Fender Strat-style bridge and a Tuno should be used as the reference point, and at what position of the saddle travel.
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Post by fenderbender on Sept 30, 2011 10:45:41 GMT -5
You can make up your own scale charts using this: FretFind. It's very handy for oddball and normal scales with its ability to save as pdf or a couple of other formats. As for the saddle you should always use the high E and set it slightly forward as the rest will be a touch longer. Tune-o-matics should be more or less centered since you are angling the entire piece to aid the intonation.
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Post by cynical1 on Sept 30, 2011 23:43:59 GMT -5
I recall the critical issues being: - That the principal root for the measurement anchor was the bridge, since it was not movable in the inventory bodies used without unsightly drills and fills.
- Deciding which saddle should be the key one from which to establish the reference measure.
Yes, and yes again. As a rule the high E is short of the actual scale, and the low E is long. And I'm not sure why that was the conventional wisdom you were able to find said that either...because the way I was taught...it's not. The critical dimension is from the front of the nut to the bridge. If the frets are cut properly for the scale desired, and the dimension from nut to bridge is correct, then all is right with the world. I've seen a lot of fingerboards cut wrong by measuring from fret to fret. It's too easy to miss a dimension that way and compound the error right up the fingerboard. As you said before, the dimension from the nut to the saddle is critical. The dimension from the front of the nut to the 12th fret is always exactly half of the scale measurement. This is handy when sorting through loose necks...but that's about it. Why, yes I do. Scale length: 25.5Distance from front of the nut(or zero fret) to fret 1: 1.431 2: 2.782 3: 4.057 4: 5.261 5: 6.397 6: 7.469 7: 8.481 8: 9.436 9: 10.338 10: 11.189 11: 11.992 12: 12.75 13: 13.466 14: 14.141 15: 14.779 16: 15.38 17: 15.948 18: 16.484 19: 16.99 20: 17.468 21: 17.919 22: 18.344 Scale length: 25.5Distance from front of the nut(or zero fret) to fret 1: 1.431 2: 2.782 3: 4.057 4: 5.261 5: 6.397 6: 7.469 7: 8.481 8: 9.436 9: 10.338 10: 11.189 11: 11.992 12: 12.75 13: 13.466 14: 14.141 15: 14.779 16: 15.38 17: 15.948 18: 16.484 19: 16.99 20: 17.468 21: 17.919 22: 18.344 23: 18.746 24: 19.125 Again, don't get in the habit of measuring from the 12th fret to the bridge. The nut helps lock you metal rule against a fixed reference point you can't screw up. It's too easy to miss your mark using the 12th fret...especially on Tune-o-matics where you have damn little room to intonate to begin with. And on Tune-o-matic bridges I generally use the B saddle set just one thickness from center towards the neck. On Strat type bridges I use the D saddle about a heavy 16th towards the neck from center of travel, but there are about as many "Rules of Thumb" on that one as there are people you can ask. Neck bow and neck pitch all play a factor in intonation, and I've shanked a few in my day, too. Hope that helps. Happy Trails Cynical One
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sonosonny
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Post by sonosonny on Nov 16, 2011 20:53:49 GMT -5
I have somewhat finished the 24 to 22 fret conversion on the Cort Body/BC Rich neck, I lucked out and cut the neck near perfectly. C1's hints on measuring from the front of the nut to the "B" string set in the middle of the Tune-O worked great. A++ to Mr. C1's vast knowledge and his sharing per this build. On stringing up the first time out, the "B" string intonation was durn near spot on with plenty of room for the other strings' intonation tweaking (yes, I will come out, I am an "intonation freak"). After intonating the guitar I am ELATED. It plays so well and so in tune up and down the neck.
I did have to shim the neck a bit due to the Tune-O bottoming out and still needing to lower the bridge for optimum action. Therafter I will need to cut back on the shimming, now not being able to get the PUPS up high enough for my taste....
~~~ C1 and other Luthier Types ~~~ - My current shim is about 1.5" inches long from the neck heel to just after the bridge referenced neck screws. If the shim is longer, is the adjustment less radical than a shorter shim? Bicycle Playing Card stock is the shim material. ie. Does a shorter shim make a larger adjustment than a longer one that travels say from the heel to the mid point between the two screw pairs? Hope I am clear on this..... if not I will elaborate.
Rune and I muled this one up and installed the Entwistle ASN 57 Neck and Bridge SC pickups with homegrown HB/SC converter PUP rings. The converters were cut out of a Str@t pickguard that had about 20 holes in it from Nutzing around.... The PG looked like Swiss Cheese. I used the SC cutouts and a "vintage" 80's HB/SC converter as a template that I picked up who knows where back in the "atmospheric" 80's. Realize that in the pics to follow, the converters are not "dressed up". They are "muley" only for testing SC's in an HB pocket.
I personally like the Entwistle PUPS, they are "fun/exciting/different" than many of the name brand/familiar PUPs that I have played. Rune has the Cort body/BC Rich neck at his abode currently and is running it up the pole. I know Newey and others have been planning to install the Entwistle Pups,then encountering hurdles, so we just went ahead the did the deed. Further reporting (Rune/Son-O) on the Entwistle PUPS will follow.
Pics of this build/conversion will follow as well.
Highest Nutzoid Regards,
Son-O
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Post by newey on Nov 16, 2011 21:40:03 GMT -5
Interested to hear that you liked the Entwhistle pups, Son-O. Now if I could only come up with another guitar to put mine in, since Plan A went awry on me.
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sonosonny
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Post by sonosonny on Nov 16, 2011 22:29:50 GMT -5
Yeah Rune purchased a couple of sets of the ASN 57's. One white, one black. Today, I just installed the white ones in a Str@t type guitar using JH'sTwo Volume Plus design. guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=3157The Str@t type guitar was inheritently bright with the other set of Pups (Alnico SC (neck/Mid) Dimarzio HSN2 Bridge. The ASN 57's gave the guitar a more "meaty/fuller" sound. Wish they were 4 conductor, but that may not be possible due to the engineering which I am still trying to wrap my head around from the description. Still not exactly totally sold on the Entwistles, but as previous, they are fun to play and I will continue to test/analyze. For the price, though, they are well worth it for the enjoyment of a different Pup. Much, much better than stock type mid range Pups in my estimation. Alan Entwistle apparently is a legend in the UK for Pup/Guitar design. His guitar line is Alden and you can Google his site. Interesting.... He engineers/designs the Pups and they are mfg'd by Artec in CH. So, the Pups do indeed have some solid engineering and thought processes in their design. Mr. Entwistle currently works for Burns Guitars (UK) and his Pups are also standard in the UK Tanglewood brand. No plug intended, just my current research into the Pups and the designer. Nutzoid Regards, Son-O
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Post by cynical1 on Nov 16, 2011 23:39:40 GMT -5
First off, I am always happy when the little tips I can push out here help someone, and especially with a not as easy as it looks task to pull off like yours. Glad I could help. ~~~ C1 and other Luthier Types ~~~ - My current shim is about 1.5" inches long from the neck heel to just after the bridge referenced neck screws. If the shim is longer, is the adjustment less radical than a shorter shim? Bicycle Playing Card stock is the shim material. ie. Does a shorter shim make a larger adjustment than a longer one that travels say from the heel to the mid point between the two screw pairs? Hope I am clear on this..... if not I will elaborate. Well, you couldn't pick a contentious highly opinionated thing to ask me about, could ya? Here's the long and short on shims...no pun intended... Nearly every guitar out there has one, or needs one. Individual player setups almost make them a part of a setup. And in your case, where you've taken parts from two vastly different instruments and married them together it's pretty much a given. I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say the only thing I will not budge on is the material the shim is made of. When you can get rolls of maple veneer for under $5.00, there's no excuse for not using real wood for your shims. There, I said it. Having said that, the size and shape of the shim can vary, and for the most part you will hear little of no difference playing the guitar with a short or long shim. There, I said that, too... Traditionally shims covered the majority, if not all of the neck pocket. The logic is simple to grasp...the more contact area the better the string vibrations transfer into the body. This requires a real high class belt sander, some spray adhesive...and a lot of scrap stock to burn through before you got it right if you were starting with just a one single piece of stock. I prefer the maple veneer rolls because they're cheap, easy to cut and work with, and they're friggin' maple. It just ain't gonna compress on you. And just cut them to rough size, soak them in some lacquer thinner for 5 minutes and the adhesive comes right off. Instant .xxx" shim stock. You can lay one run longitudinal, one latitudinal, repeat as needed with the final one longitudinal. Use a thin light wipe of glue to keep it in place, clamp it between two blocks of wood and let it dry overnight. Spray a little 3M setup adhesive on the bottom side and just sand it to a thin wedge with a sanding block on the top side. It'll be thinner then paper at the one end, and your correct thickness at the other. Once you torque the neck back in with your nut inserts the maple will retain it's shape and not compress over time. Done right, done once. And trying out a few unglued pieces of the veneer to test and get your final height is the way to start. You can give it a full torque and not have to worry about it compressing on you. And I'm curious to see how to did your little pick mounting scheme. All in all it sounds like you've got a nice little guitar in the works. I always loved watching guitars come back from the grave and become something unique and highly playable and played. I'll just wait here for the pictures... Happy Trails Cynical One
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Post by Runewalker on Nov 17, 2011 13:58:23 GMT -5
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say the only thing I will not budge on is the material the shim is made of. When you can get rolls of maple veneer for under $5.00, there's no excuse for not using real wood for your shims. There, I said it.
..... for the most part you will hear little of no difference ....
....friggin' maple. It just ain't gonna compress on you.....
C1
Nice and thorough description C1. I have used everything from card stock, playing cards to sheet metal to layered aluminum foil to metal-stock. All seem to work fine in terms of hear-able differences, but I get your maple argument, and concede on the sanding-to-shape approach you describe. One aside, wood pulp based paper products are .... wood. In some ways I like the way that card stock as an example, when compressed, conforms slightly to the micoscopic variations in the planes of the neck to pocket interface. +1 to Son-o for taking this on and also posting the approach. We love the mules. He sandbagged me on the Entwhistles in that I thought he was throwing in some standard HBs. Had to do a cartoon double take on his mounting adapters. The destination bod has the feel of a Gibson style LP, a little lighter (.... except for those abominations to mankind of the channeled LPs that even Gibson conceded to because .... whineing guitarist sound .... eweeewwww the Les Paul is tooooooo HEAVY..... bunch of girls..... do some pushups by crackky) So with that sort of feel I found myself unconsciously expecting a side by side two coil humbucker sound. That is not the stacked bar sound. So it was a novel set of juxtapositions, expecting thick, and getting a more pointed sound. So it takes your playing in a different direction. Also a 24.75" scale and single coil sounds always causes me some adjustment. Vice-versa on a bolt-on 25.5" scaled neck with conventional humbuckers also requires some adjustment. RW
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sonosonny
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Post by sonosonny on Nov 21, 2011 22:30:42 GMT -5
Here is the finished (at least today's version) Cort Body/ BC Rich neck build pictures. Rune is thinking of swapping out the current pickups, is anyone surprised? The cutting of the 24 fret neck to a 22 was not hazardous to my health, but even so, I was very careful and even cut it "a hair long" just in case. It really came out great. Here is a pic of the cut neck. It looks rougher in the picture than it really is. I did not take the maple down to rosewood on the fingerboard overhang, so call me sloppy. The extra maple on the rosewood overhang did not impede the neck fit. Had to shape the corners of course to get the neck and pocket to fit tightly. Very happy with the neck/body purchase. farm7.staticflickr.com/6218/6379712765_5f610910f8.jpg [/img] ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Next pic is of the Cort body / pocket. Notice the SC Pup in the neck position. The HB to SC converter ring is slanted for hopefully less bassy tones at the neck (HB SC converter V2). I have no idea what that factory tape is in the Cort body neck pocket. I just left it..... ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Next pic is the first iteration of pickups installed with the straight HB/SC converter mounting rings. I really sandbagged Rune and brought him the guitar for testing with him thinking I had installed some Alnico Epi HB's. He had ordered some of the Entwistle ASN 57's, I had them, so I installed them in the neck and bridge. Yeah his jaw dropped a bit. We had been wanting to check these out and this was a prime opportunity, plus I pulled a good one on him. Notice the initial HB to SC pup rings are both just straight, not slanted. Entwistle evals forthcoming. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Next up is the full body with the Entwistle ASN57's mounted straight. You can see the BC Rich neck headstock in this one. Next is the current Pup Scheme V2. A slanted Entwistle ASN57 in the neck, and a GFS Zebra HB in the bridge. I have not split the HB or done any "Nutzing" with it .... Yet. Since this is a Rune managed build , it may not be the last pickup set in this guitar... which is fine because we are both Nutz. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Finally the current fully populated guitar for your inspection. Future enhancements - I will change the current "plastic" nut to bone/Tusc and also, yep you guessed it, install stainless steel inserts and SS machine screws. Rune had already levelled/crowned the frets and I just verified it all and polished them out. Rune did a nice level/crown job and the thing plays very well. It has a very solid, articulate tone played acoustically, so the pups just enhance it all. C1, I will expand on the HB to SC converter Pup Rings in a later post. Pics are ready, I am just running out of gas after a day on the bench, a pig iron weight lifting workout, and my nightly self medication....hmmm. All responses are, as always, appreciated. Son-O
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Post by cynical1 on Nov 21, 2011 22:52:41 GMT -5
Very nice. That's a real sleeper you've got there. And you even painted it Stealth Bomber gray...
For the record, I always route my single coil pickups in that orientation. There is a very modest thickening of the higher strings and a slight tightening of the lower strings, but the real reason is that it looks cool.
Once you get those inserts in the neck this will be ready for prime time.
One day I'm gonna have to work up a 24-3/4" 24 fret guitar...like I need another guitar...
+1 to you sir, for bringing a guitar back to life. You made a tricky little rework look seamless. And if what you say is true, it sounds pretty sweet, too... However, sound samples are required for the coup de grâce...
So, what else are you workin' on?
Happy Trails
Cynical One
EDIT: Oh yeah, the tape is probably a factory shim job. Odd place to put it, but hey, they probably only pay them $7.00\hr anyways...
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Post by newey on Nov 21, 2011 23:30:31 GMT -5
Well, I don't know that we would have come, but you could of at least invited us for that . . . Seriously, that's a sweet git and I'm happy to finally hear something about the Entwhistles.
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sonosonny
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Post by sonosonny on Dec 13, 2011 13:47:55 GMT -5
Soundclips available for the Cort BC Rich build.The final pickups Rune decided on were the Entwistle XS 62N in the neck and a "Tradition" brand SC form twin blade PUP in the bridge. These were the final PUPs in this build. Used a Digitech GNX3 for the amp/tone patches, then into my PC/DAW using Cakewalk Guitar Tracks. All done "inline", no mic/amp/speakers. I was impressed with the inherent sustain of this build on the overdrive clips (bridge PUP) and the clean full sound on the neck PUP. First clip relatively clean using just the neck PUP (Entwistle XS 62N) www.soundclick.com/player/single_player.cfm?songid=11285267&q=hi&newref=1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Next clip is overdrive all the way using bridge HB (Tradition TwinBlade HB- SC form factor) - My standard "lead noodling" www.soundclick.com/player/single_player.cfm?songid=11285270&q=hi&newref=1~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lastly an earlier clip from the pre-build- using the GuitarFetish Zebra HB in the bridge. Also overdriven and more "noodling" www.soundclick.com/player/single_player.cfm?songid=11285271&q=hi&newref=1As one would expect when using real amplification with a couple or more speakers and turned UP, it really sounds fantastic, much juicier than the inline clips. I plan on posting this in the finished projects when Rune takes the final pics. This guitar will be a present for the son of one of Rune's business associates. Durn fine for a guy's "first guitar".... Durn fine as a 10th guitar for all of us GASaholics. I would have no problem gigging live with this guitar. Son-O
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