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Post by spitfire23bc on Oct 16, 2006 18:26:06 GMT -5
Is it possible to wire a dp5t switch with two pickups so that it gives: - 1 pickup - the other pickup - both in series - both in parallel - bypass both pickups  |
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Post by ChrisK on Oct 16, 2006 18:54:15 GMT -5
If it's a true DP5T switch, yes.
If it's the Fender type (which ain't a DP5T but a DP3T shorting with extra detents), don't know.
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Post by spitfire23bc on Oct 17, 2006 4:49:26 GMT -5
If it's a true DP5T switch, yes. If it's the Fender type (which ain't a DP5T but a DP3T shorting with extra detents), don't know. Hmm yes it is the Fender switch |
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Post by flateric on Oct 18, 2006 9:55:27 GMT -5
I am interested in doing similar (but not the bypass) with 2 humbuckers, a 5-way strat switch and a psh-pull coil tap pot, to get as many interesting and usable tomnes as possible. I suspect I may need one of those superswitch chappies.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 19, 2006 13:02:17 GMT -5
I don't believe it will work with the standard strat switch. You will need a 2p5t switch. It'll have 12 terminals on it. You could wire it like this. That's a 4-way switch (2p4t), but for your kill position I think you can just leave the extra terminals unconnected. Musician's Friend has a 2p5t replacement for the strat lever switch for not cheap. Others might be able to provide links to other sources. Most around here will probably tell you to get a superswitch, which is a 4p5t, and I think costs about the same. |
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Post by spitfire23bc on Oct 21, 2006 5:30:27 GMT -5
I don't believe it will work with the standard strat switch. You will need a 2p5t switch. It'll have 12 terminals on it. You could wire it like this. That's a 4-way switch (2p4t), but for your kill position I think you can just leave the extra terminals unconnected. Where are the poles on that dp4t switch? I've been trying to understand what's going on but I can't seem to get my head around it..! |
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 24, 2006 15:30:41 GMT -5
It is kind of crazy actually. The "poles" are on either side of the switch. The "common" for the left-side pole is at the bottom, with the common for the right-side at the top.
I'll come back later tonight maybe and go through tell you what's connected in each position. Right now I have a 3yr old crawling all over me.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 24, 2006 15:47:23 GMT -5
Okay, got him distracted. Let's see if I can get through this...
I'm going to call the hot and ground from the pickups + and -, respectively. Hot will be the tip of the output jack (via volume control) and ground will be the bridge/jack ground.
1) both + to hot, lead - to ground, rhythm - to nothing.
2) both + to hot, both - to ground
3) rhyhtm + to hot, lead + to nothing, both - to ground
4) lead + to rhythm -, rhythm + to hot, lead - to ground
on a 2p5t switch, if you leave position 5 empty on both sides you'd have:
5) lead + to nothing, rhythm + to hot, lead - to ground, rhythm - to nothing
no continuity anywhere, so a kill position. You can put this anywhere you want on the switch, of course.
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Post by UnklMickey on Oct 24, 2006 16:28:50 GMT -5
ashcaltlt, here's a picture of a 4P5T switch, to help with your description. for a 2P5T, just ignore the rear wafer.  |
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Post by ChrisK on Oct 24, 2006 17:11:28 GMT -5
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 25, 2006 0:11:46 GMT -5
In the picture we were talking about the positions on both sides are numbered from top to bottom. You can change these around to get a different order if you think it's necessary, just make sure you make the same change on both sides of the switch.
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Post by spitfire23bc on Oct 25, 2006 9:23:56 GMT -5
Ahhh [understanding dawns]
Thanks Ashcatlt (+1). Presumably it isn't possible to get the 4 settings on a strat switch? (as opposed to those plus a kill switch)
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Post by ChrisK on Oct 25, 2006 12:01:34 GMT -5
Sure, as long as it's a Strat super switch (4P5T).
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 25, 2006 13:50:04 GMT -5
Sure, as long as it's a Strat super switch (4P5T). ...which means no. If you look at a strat switch (there's one in the link chrisk posted above) you'll see it's only got 3 real "positions," or terminals other than the common on each side. These are positions 1-3-5 on the switch. 2 and 4 short the terminals adjacent to them together. I wanted to mention too: The link I gave shows a connection from the metal case on the neck pickup to ground. If you're not using a tele, you probably won't have a metal cover on your neck pickup, so you can ignore that connection altogether. |
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Post by spitfire23bc on Oct 25, 2006 15:11:13 GMT -5
Sure, as long as it's a Strat super switch (4P5T). ...which means no. If you look at a strat switch (there's one in the link chrisk posted above) you'll see it's only got 3 real "positions," or terminals other than the common on each side. These are positions 1-3-5 on the switch. 2 and 4 short the terminals adjacent to them together. I wanted to mention too: The link I gave shows a connection from the metal case on the neck pickup to ground. If you're not using a tele, you probably won't have a metal cover on your neck pickup, so you can ignore that connection altogether. Yeah I wasn't holding out much hope - looks like I'll need a new switch! I'm not sure if I'll implement this any time soon; it was more of a point of interest... I'm thinking of using the DP5T to have the five options first mentioned, ie: neck, neck+middle (parallel), middle, neck+middle (series), bypass ...and then use a DPDT switch on a push-pull pot to change between adding the bridge pickup in series/parallel. There would be a need for some sort of bypass on this, in order to turn the bridge pickup off, so the guitar would end up with two volume controls - one for the middle/neck pickups and one for the bridge, which would hopefully give some nice blending potential. Just a thought that's been kicking around for a little while. |
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Post by ChrisK on Oct 25, 2006 17:55:43 GMT -5
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Post by spitfire23bc on Oct 27, 2006 7:37:02 GMT -5
True, although this was more an exercise in what I could achieve with parts I currently have (not the way to seriously go about modifying a guitar I know, but at the moment it's really more of a point of interest). It's something I'll bear in mind though... |
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 30, 2006 1:08:46 GMT -5
after struggling with the thing for almost 14 hrs straight I can tell you that my suggestion to leave the "extra positions" open doesn't work.
I was actually trying to do this with each of three single sized hb's in a strat, but in my troubleshooting I did test it with two seperate singles. When I had it wired up the way I suggested above I still got sound out of the "kill position." It was significantly quiter than the other positions, but quite distinctly still there.
After spazzing out and rewiring the thing 6 times, I finally came to the solution of shorting both coils in the kill position. Basically you've got to run position 5 on the "hot" side to signal ground and on the "ground" side to the signal hot.
Anybody got any ideas why? When I checked it with my meter, there seemed to be infinite resistance between hot and ground in the original configuration, but it still made noise!
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 6, 2006 13:04:13 GMT -5
I can now say that I've done this successfully 4 times. Once for each of the 3xHBs on my strat, and once for my LP Studio.
I think i might have reinstalled the bridge pup in the paul backwards, but the series position still sounds pretty crazy.
The LP now has a master vol, master tone, and a "blend" knob which acts as a neck volume in parrallel mode and a master vol in series mode.
Next time I get to my studio I'll be doing this to my Rick 330.
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