P-Bass round 2

[gfxbss]

hey guys, the first pbass was being wired for mmray. now, i want to do mine. here is a diagram for what i want to do. i would appreciate it if someone would proof it for me.



Thanks,

Tyler

by the way, the black bar is a choke. and the grey ovals are resistors.

[sumgai]

Tyler,

Your upper-left pickup has two ground-black leads, and your lower-right pickup has only the one hot-white lead. I'm not gonna make any assumptions about which way you intended the wiring to go, so it's back to the drafting table for you, my friend! ;D


sumgai

[gfxbss]

SG, i acctually have them already wired for that switch, and it works great. i used a DPDT. w/ the middle being a kill switch. does the rest of it look fine?

Tyler

[UnklMickey]

Tyler,

some of what i'm about to say might seem harsh, but it needs to be said. (sorry in advance.)

i think you brushed off a valid point.

sumgai said:

...Your upper-left pickup has two ground-black leads, and your lower-right pickup has only the one hot-white lead. ...

the wires to the pickups don't make sense.

you have 3 wires going to one pickup, and only one wire to the other.

also, you have a ground symbol at the black wire from the upper left coil, and a ground symbol at the white wire of the very same coil.

no matter how i looked at the wiring of that switch, i couldn't see how you would make it work with just one or two wires being moved.

basically it's a mess.

you might want to go to the modules thread and look at the different ways you can wire a switch for series/parallel.

also, if you want to use an on-on-on and have a quiet kill position in the center, i don't want to say it's impossible
..........................................but it's impossible.

you could use an on-off-on, but that will not shunt the output. the kill position will be noisy.

i haven't even looked at the tone circuits.


you owe me an aspirin,

unk

[gfxbss]

wow, i somehow did miss that. i forgot to move the ground on the left pup comming from the bottom, to the right pup. sorry i somehow made that mistake while changing my diagram up. i didnt mention that it is an on/off/on. when i tested it, it didnt seem noisy. but i also didnt have it at a high volume. i see what you mean w/ the switch. i suppose my only excuse can be that i was tired when i made it. here in a bit i will change it and post an update.

sorry, ill have that asprin sent to you ASAP.

Tyler

[gfxbss]

sorry about that again guys.

im not sure that happened but i suppose that is why i posted it asking you guys to look it over.

thanks again,

Tyler

[sumgai]

Tyler,

Look closely at your switch:

a) In the down position, the two lower-right pup leads are shorted together.

b) In the alleged center-off position, the upper-left pup is still fully connected.

c) In fact, the upper-left black always goes to the volume pot, and it's white always goes to ground, ergo, you don't have any way to get a serial connection.

Would you like to try for what's behind Door Number 3? ;D

i suppose my only excuse can be that i was tired when i made it.

More caffeine, Drill Sergeant!

The volume and tone parts of the circuit don't look too bad, and I'm sure it works and sounds good to you, but I'm getting a sense of 'feeping creatureism' here - too much crud hanging off the tone pot for my tastes.



sumgai

[gfxbss]

hmm, i see what you mean. all i know is that i had the switch wired up last week(and still is) and it works great. i can tell a distinct difference between the ser and par. the kill(center) is noisy as i checked it this morning. however, i cant find a DPST switch at radio shack, so i may just avoid that center spot.

yeah, there is a lot hanging off of it. i have all of the wires from caps chokes ect wrapped in heat shrinks. then, when its all done and working, im planning on bundling it up and heatshrinking it into one package to never be touched again.

Tyler