guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 17, 2007 20:03:41 GMT -5
ok, guitarfetish sent me this: with my wiring "upgrade kit" which has a 500K pot for volume I guess, 2 - 250K pots (for tone I suppose) a 5 way "import" switch (different from standard fender switch!!! that is the main problem Im having) and some other stuff including 3 - 472K (0.047 uF?) caps. I want to wire my stratocaster like this: As you can see, the switches are not the same. My switch doesn't look like the one in the fralin diagram. My switch is the one in the guitarfetish diagram. I have no clue what to do. could somebody kindly change the drawing in the diagram I want to my type of switch please? Also, the tone cap in the diagram looks like it is 0.002 or something...I have 472K (0.047 uF?) caps, are they ok?
|
|
guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 17, 2007 20:29:47 GMT -5
I have been googling this for like 30 minutes, and have found nothing on this subject (fender 5 way vs imported guitars 5 way switch).
|
|
guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 17, 2007 20:37:21 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jul 18, 2007 0:21:23 GMT -5
Well, the switch in the GuitarFetish diagram selects the following combinations:
B B+M M M+N N
along with the following respective tone pots:
None Tone2 Tone2 Tone2 and Tone1 Tone1
This is exactly the same switching combinations as standard Fender Strat wiring. I know this because this is an import switch used in import guitars (and Carvins) by makers not especially known for original electrical switching designs (like Carvin).
One group of terminals has the hot leads from each pickup connected to them. This terminal group must be in use for selecting the pickups. This would be the upper three terminals on the switch in the GF diagram.
Two out of three of the bottom terminals are connected to the tone pots with green wires. This terminal group must be in use selecting the respective tone pots. One terminal is unused since there are only two tone pots and nothing "cute" is in play.
Obviously the two terminals in the middle of the switch are then the output poles from each switch section since they are jumpered together and connected to the top terminal of the volume pot with the green wire.
Therefore, to implement the Blender Pot wiring scheme one would remove the two bottom green wires from the switch (you can leave the jumper between the two middle terminals since you are not using the bottom switch section).
The bridge hot in the BP diagram is the yellow wire in the GF diagram.
The middle hot in the BP diagram is the red wire in the GF diagram.
The neck hot in the BP diagram is the blue wire in the GF diagram.
You now have enough info, follow the BP wiring and connect it to the proper colored wires/terminals on the GF switch. Wire away!
BTW, the link that you posted correctly depicts the functioning of the switch.
In position 5, both COM terminals are connected to the respective terminal 3.
In position 4, both COM terminals are connected to the respective terminals 3 & 2.
In position 3, both COM terminals are connected to the respective terminal 2.
In position 2, both COM terminals are connected to the respective terminals 1 & 2.
In position 1, both COM terminals are connected to the respective terminal 1.
The terminals 3 2 1 COM COM 1 2 3 depicts the order that the terminals are arraigned on the switch.
Another way to discern switch connectivity is to use a multimeter and measure the contact closures in each position, thereby building a switch logic diagram/table (the way that we discern unknowns).
The 0.002uF cap should be 0.022uF or 0.047uF. The 0.002uF value probably refers to the volume (treble) kit and was just put in the wrong place on the drawing.
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Jul 18, 2007 0:23:02 GMT -5
Took me a while to figure out how to describe this in simple terms. I was thinking up geometric tranformations and truck driving metaphors...then I smoked on it...
edit - nevermind, i was ninja'd, and was wrong anyway.
edit 2 - no i was right, the top half of the import switch is the left half of the fender switch.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jul 18, 2007 0:31:14 GMT -5
Uh, the top half of the switch in diagram 1 (Guitar Fetish) is the right/lower half of the switch in diagram 2 (Fralin Blender Pot). Likewise bottom= left/upper/unused. It kinda reminds me of the joke about the Indian (American) that decided to circumcise himself to save money. "Ugh, too much!"
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Jul 18, 2007 0:49:39 GMT -5
never heard that one the left hand side of the switch in the second diagram (the fender switch) has the common at the bottom, as does the top half of the import. likewise, the bottom of the import has the common at the top, much like the right side of the fender switch. if you compare the guitarfetish diagram to a diagram of standard strat switching, you'll see they are identical.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jul 18, 2007 1:00:18 GMT -5
Ok, I think that I see your perspective (now). It was a little obscure.
Yep, that's what I said.
|
|
guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 18, 2007 10:14:00 GMT -5
so would this explanation be correct?...
"the switch you have is exactly the same. Instead of having 4 tabs on each side all eight are on the same side. The two in the center are the common ones (middle left connects to left tabs, middle right connects to right tabs) Just use the left half of the switch, and wire just as the other diagram. output to volume will be the 4th tab closest to the middle."
|
|
|
Post by michaelcbell on Jul 18, 2007 11:08:24 GMT -5
yup, you got it.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jul 18, 2007 11:52:24 GMT -5
|
|
guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 18, 2007 11:52:41 GMT -5
thanks so much!!! You guys are great! I will let you know how it sounds. Im upgrading from the stock squier stratocaster wiring. The guitar plays great and feels great, but yeah the electronics suck. I replaced the pickups with GFS pickups last year, so the new electronics I will put in today will be the final piece of the puzzle! Cant wait to crank up my marshall and blast away haha, should be fun.
|
|
guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 21, 2007 20:54:30 GMT -5
Well to make the story short, I did the wiring below to my strat, while upgrading the entire wiring, including the wires themselves, using the guitarfetish strat upgrade kit. I bought some wire from a place in Calgary called active electronics. www.acmeguitarworks.com/pdf/WiringDiagram_Strat_Blender.pdfheres the clip of the wiring mod done edit: new, easier to access, clip www.purevolume.com/guitaristzI just plugged in an overdrive (visualsound jekyll and hyde dual overdrive) to the "line in" on my pc, and connected the guitar to that...so sound quality isn't very good...sorry ...but at least you can hear the different tones. In the clip, I change switch position for each individual lick. I have all knobs at 10 for ease of recording. I can get a lot more tones though if I play with the tone pot and the blend pot...its crazy...plus ALL the tones I find are very usable!!! Something the stock wiring didnt have much of... sounds much better through a tube amp haha...I used ceramic capacitors btw, so perhaps an orange drop cap would sweeten it up even more. The clip sounds better with earphones btw...easier to hear the differences in tone I suppose
|
|
guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 21, 2007 20:55:16 GMT -5
thanks so much guys for your help!!! Im sure glad I did this mod!!!
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Jul 22, 2007 15:46:53 GMT -5
Be sure to come back and help others as well.
|
|
guitaristz
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
|
Post by guitaristz on Jul 22, 2007 19:20:45 GMT -5
Sure. Im not really good at wiring and all, but yeah I can help some. thanks again
|
|