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Post by UnklMickey on Apr 28, 2006 16:10:38 GMT -5
"--it's just a joke." ditto.
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Post by sumgai on Apr 29, 2006 13:34:55 GMT -5
Depends.
sumgai
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Post by CheshireCat on Apr 30, 2006 1:39:03 GMT -5
Oh, for Pete's sake--it's just a joke. He offered some constructive criticism, and his points were valid. I'm still learning all of this drawing/schematic bidness, so I probably won't get it all down perfectly the first time. Or the next. Or, sad to say, the dozen or so after that. Well, to be perfectly frank, I don't think you should even bother. Your "font", which I admiringly dub the Mikey R font (tho, I am leaning towards Mickey R, because it rolls off the tongue more easily) has a very dramatic, elegant, stylish quality, and I've sort of adopted it outright, tho when I do it it sort of reflects more my style a bit. In terms of cleaning up my schematic, I'll experiement with that, but, to be perfectly honest, I would simply make it look like a cleaner version of what you originally started with (and what I subsequently adopted). I mean, come on! Let's be honest: How much different is this . . . or this . . . from this . . . or this?: Apart from the fact that it wasn't rendered in a CAD program, the fonts are otherwise very similar, and if you added some color and a little more detail to the component renderings, it would look like this: To be honest, Mike's work had a certain clean, smooth, intuitive quality about it that, for me at least, transcended any "messiness" in terms of it being hand-drawn vs. CAD rendered. Chesh
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Post by sumgai on Apr 30, 2006 5:41:52 GMT -5
Chesh,
Ya know, somehow I get the feeling that I tripped a trigger here. What was actually said in the first place was something on the order of "color madness is a close cousin of font madness", and I went on from there to give a link to a website showing the obvious abuse that viewers are subjected to when the designer goes "mad". Mike picked it up with a joke of his own, that of using Old English to label his diagrams. I answered in kind, 'how about Fractured German'?
At that point, nothing had been said for several messages about color, so you're forgiven for not remembering the original intent of my -hopefully- gentle criticism/request, about colored lines. Hey, it's late in the eve, we all get a bit distracted, so don't worry, no one's taking you to task for appearing to be so serious with all this.
And FWIW, I too would prefer to "view" either of the first two diagrams above (your's and Mike's) over the other, more "clean" diagrams. I think I've already said that sometimes, simpler is better, but now's as good a time as any to repeat that sentiment.
Ciao!
sumgai
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Post by Mike Richardson on May 3, 2006 5:53:41 GMT -5
While Brian May has phase switches on all three pickups, it is only necessary to have them on TWO pickups. For example, if you have phase switches on the neck and middle, and you want the bridge out of phase, just hit both the neck and middle switches. The neck and middle will be in phase with each other, and the bridge will be the "odd man out".
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Post by CheshireCat on May 3, 2006 20:36:59 GMT -5
While Brian May has phase switches on all three pickups, it is only necessary to have them on TWO pickups. For example, if you have phase switches on the neck and middle, and you want the bridge out of phase, just hit both the neck and middle switches. The neck and middle will be in phase with each other, and the bridge will be the "odd man out". You know, that's interesting. Actually, I originally had that covered. I was going to take the leads from the 4th position of the B pickup and run it to a phase inverter, like the EMG-Pi2 (homemade) and that would fill in the missing OOP option for the M>B and M+B options at the 4th position, but now you got me thinking. If I could flip the M in the 4th position instead, that would greatly simplify things, and give me the same kind of coup I achieved when I figured that I could move the phasing to the N from the B. Chesh Post Factum:That gives me a really big idea!! I think I got it!
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Post by ChrisK on May 3, 2006 20:49:41 GMT -5
Well Mike, N-1 solutions abound.
My entry in the "Slap Sided Strat" thread didn't futz w/ the middle phase specifically for this reason (and the need for a 10 pole 5 throw vs an 8 pole 3 throw switch in the middle). Although, I AM fond of a phase on the middle and one other (in a 3 PU setup) and not the bridge and neck since the phase "biasing" can be shifted by one switch (the middle).
WD sells a 4PDT mini toggle to realize the Brian May config w/ only three switches instead of 3 SPST and 3 DPDT slides. It was design by Kent Armstrong and is comprised of a DPDT center off and a SP3T (ON ON ON) in one switch (4PoddT). Unfortunately, the scheme can be realized with two SP3T switches (ON ON ON) and a SPDT (while also NOT shorting any coils), thus rendering Kent's switch design moot. Or, one can use three SP3T if one wants to get all "phasic".
For a scheme that extrapolates the SP3T into series/parallel land, with phase switches and B*(M+N) vs B*M+N mitigation, see the ToggleCaster post.
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Post by CheshireCat on May 3, 2006 21:02:42 GMT -5
Chesh, Ya know, somehow I get the feeling that I tripped a trigger here. Not in terms of "fractured german" or "olde english". Actually, I wasn't quite tracking all that, but I figured you guys were joking or something. I'm not terribly concerned about color issues. What bothered me was that some time ago, people were complaining about Mikey R's work being sloppy and messy. Well, I'm not terribly impressed with the CAD work, to be honest. A lot of it seems hard to read and hard on the eyes. Who knows, perhaps I'll adapt to it, but I thought it was really interesting that Mike's work, and specifically his main mod, was so instrumental to my work, and helped with my breakthrus with the UUSS, and a lot of it was due to the fact that his font was so clean, simple, and straightforward. All the superfluous detail was eliminated, leaving just the key aspects. And FWIW, I too would prefer to "view" either of the first two diagrams above (your's and Mike's) over the other, more "clean" diagrams. I think I've already said that sometimes, simpler is better, but now's as good a time as any to repeat that sentiment. Thank you for re-emphasizing that. Of course, you were the one who commented that it was "messy". ;D Still, no worries. Chesh
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Post by Mike Richardson on May 4, 2006 18:41:15 GMT -5
My work IS sloppy and messy. Come to think of it, so am I. ;D
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Post by CheshireCat on May 4, 2006 21:21:19 GMT -5
My work IS sloppy and messy. Come to think of it, so am I. ;D Yes, your work is sloppy and messy. But the font you've created isn't.
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Post by CheshireCat on Jul 3, 2006 13:40:41 GMT -5
Alright guys!
Based on recent discussion in a few other threads, I have a new challenge!: The introduction of a PRS style coil inverter for the UUSS. So, iow, you can flip back and forth from the outer coils to the inner coils, and vice versa, on the N and B humbuckers when they are split. This way you can get not only all the PRS sounds/settings, but also all the Ibanez ones, when in the 2 and 4 positions. (Those of your familiar with the Ibanez settings will know what I am talking about.)
So, any ideas? I have a few that I am developing myself.
Now, in the interest of full-disclosure, I don't know if I would be using this particular addition myself, being that I have an 89 in the B position, but, that said, if this turns out to be viable, I might very well, go passive and brinng my Duncan Jeff Beck back into the fold. (The JB has taken up residency in my Utah Jr. as of late.)
BTW, I want to do this while having the coils be in series rather than parallel, but if it can only be accomplished with parallel, then that's potentially workable. On that note, incidentally, I managed to do the current splitting in series by simply taking one of the coils in and out of the circuit, rather than running the coupled red and white leads to ground, which is the standard way of splitting.
What do you guys think?
Chesh
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Post by vonFrenchie on Jul 18, 2006 11:19:26 GMT -5
I think they mean how it looks on paper. It would probably help if someone redrew it in color or something.
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Post by CheshireCat on Jul 19, 2006 11:17:09 GMT -5
I think they mean how it looks on paper. It would probably help if someone redrew it in color or something. Perhaps, but I would be judicious in that regard, because too much color isn't any better than none at all. Chesh
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Post by heavymetalblues on Mar 5, 2009 19:16:40 GMT -5
Hi, I am trying to use a s-1 switch and a super switch to duplicate your design, but I don't know how to connect the s-1 switch in your diagram, I know fender label its s-1 switch in numbers from 1 to 12, could you show how those connectors relate to your 4pdt switch connectors? Many thanks.
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Post by b4nj0 on Mar 13, 2009 17:25:03 GMT -5
Quote (Sumgai)
"b4nj0,
I think you just took the cake! The previous record of 18 months between posts on a thread was just trounced by your nearly 21 months!"
Ladies and Gentlemen- a new record? 33 months??
b4nj0 ;<D
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Post by ChrisK on Mar 13, 2009 23:05:49 GMT -5
Electronics TemplatesThe Fender S-1 switch is a commercial 4PDT alternate action switch mounted on a printed circuit board, mounted on the back of a modified pot. As you look at the diagram for the S-1 switch, you'll see that there are 12 connection holes around the perimeter. There are also 12 switch terminal pads in two groups in the middle. Each group of 6 is DPDT. There are arrows that indicate the connections when the switch is down (DN - pushed in). In this state, the center terminal in each group of three is connected to the right terminal. When the switch is UP, the connections reverse. In this state, the center terminal in each group of three is connected to the left terminal. Numbers are immaterial.
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Post by enquirydave on Apr 22, 2009 12:59:34 GMT -5
Hi. As I am new to this site, could you please include all wiring options for a single coil pup with three leads, i.e. Black Green and Hot lead. I think this combination of pups is brill and can't wait to try it in my copy strat!
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Post by enquirydave on May 4, 2009 16:02:17 GMT -5
Hi Cheshire, any chance of a full diagram showing all the wires for 3 sc pups with Black, Green and Hot wires?
Would love to try this in my strat but my futile soldering attempts have yet to succeed!
Dave
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Post by sumgai on May 4, 2009 17:10:38 GMT -5
Dave, Sorry to say, CheshireCat has not logged in since September of '07. Look around at earlier posts in this thread, and in other threads of this sub-forum, I'm sure you'll find all the parts and pieces in one place or another. (I'd search for you, but then, how would you learn to search for yourself? ) HTH sumgai
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Post by enquirydave on May 9, 2009 15:34:23 GMT -5
Hi Sumgai I have tried wiring my strat to Cheshire Cats hand written diagram but have had no success in having all the options available. I am obviously doing something wrong. I would appreciate it if someone could rewrite the diagrams and include all wire options for SCN Pickups, which have 3 wires, Black, Green and Hot, AND show all possible connections I really want this combination to work. Can you help? Dave
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Post by JohnH on May 9, 2009 18:08:44 GMT -5
I have been here as long as anybody, and stared at my share of wiring diagrams. I never did suss out Cheshire Cats diagram, and I suspect you may be the first to try it other than him. But I'm interested to see if it works, so although I'll pass on the invitation to redraw it, here is a mark up. This is what I think he intended: I haven't checked it fully, see if it works! John
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Post by sumgai on May 10, 2009 1:19:56 GMT -5
ew, Essentially, this is the Mike Richardson scheme from days gone by. (BTW, I know you're monitoring, MR, I saw you log in just yesterday! ) He left several things out, due to what we call "conventions that everyone just understands". John drew in the missing wires and controls, that's all. I presume that this did indeed fill in the blanks for you..... In most single coil pickups, a third wire is simply a shield, and is always meant to be grounded. In Fender's case, these are always green. If you never use any series combinations, then you would also ground the similar colored wires for all pickups, and use the varied colored wires for your selection switching scheme. For series combinations, you obviously need to also pay attention to where the similar colored wires go. Pretty simple, when you think about it, eh. HTH sumgai
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Post by enquirydave on Jul 26, 2009 15:50:19 GMT -5
Hi John
Can you confirm if this wiring diagram works?
Dave
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Post by JohnH on Jul 28, 2009 6:14:00 GMT -5
well, my marked up version is what I think should work, but I havent tried it.
John
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Post by sumgai on Jul 29, 2009 0:35:08 GMT -5
Dave, John merely "connected the dots" - he drew lines between each of the circled letters, and he drew in the controls and pickup coils. Hopefully that takes out all the "common assumptions" for you. Several members here have used this setup, myself included (with one mod, for my own needs). In fact, to show you how popular a setup this is, someone (who is not a member here!) actually put it in production, and is selling it - over the web - as if it were his own design. The last I heard, MR had chosen not to persue him, which is probably for the best, all things considered. I'm sure you'll understand when I say that I'm not linking to that website out of respect for Mike. HTH sumgai
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Post by enquirydave on Aug 16, 2009 5:02:13 GMT -5
Hi Sumgai Yes I can confirm that it works, brilliantly!!! Especially when you wire the Bare wire to the Green wire (and not the Black wire, as I thought Black was ground!) Thanks again to John H and to the man himself, Mike Richardson. Dave
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mrpeabody
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by mrpeabody on Jun 6, 2010 6:13:14 GMT -5
Help! boght a washburn vindicator off E bay love the guitar but needs more oomph. My daily player is a les paul. love that sound so I bought a couple of 57 humbuckers-new & a couple of Godin Tetrads. I don't know how to do custom wiring but if its just a matter of replacement I'm pretty sure I could handle it. Or should I just go with a pre-amp? The guitar came with randall pups.
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Post by JohnH on Jun 6, 2010 7:45:30 GMT -5
hi mr pb - this sounds like a new thread, or is it related to the Utah design?. maybe start a new topic and tell us more of this guitar and what you want it to do.
John
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mrlime
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Post by mrlime on Jul 13, 2015 19:19:42 GMT -5
Hi guys,
I just came across this wiring which i really like for it's efficiency. John's Strat SP wiring is also pretty cool regarding the phase switch.
I would love to combine both designes. I've been sitting for hours to find a solution, maybe someone else has an idea?
The positions should stay the same as the Utah Switching but the wires have to be replaced to achieve John's universal phasing..
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Post by JohnH on Jul 13, 2015 22:19:35 GMT -5
Welcome to GN2, and good luck with that. I dont think there is a way to do it without much more complex switching. It worked on the SP because it only uses max 2 pickups at a time, and they get selected first and then one of them is fed through the phase switch.
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