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Post by midnightblue on Jul 21, 2008 1:35:11 GMT -5
Hi all,
Well, I'm building my first partscaster and the only thing left is the wiring. I've got a SSH configuration set up w/ 3 500k pots and one being a push/pull volume pot. This is what I'm looking to do:
1) I'd like to have it so that position 2 on my 5-way switch will have the top coil of the HB and the middle pup activated
2) The push-pull pot will switch between series/parallel for the HB
3) Move the middle tone control to the bridge HB
My question is: Does anyone have a schematic for this configuration?
...also, as of right now I'm using a 5-way switch off of an old Kramer guitar. It is oddly configured(not like traditional strat 5-way switches) and I don't know what goes where. If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it greatly!
It looks like this:
x x x x x x x
That's how the terminals are set up. I'm guessing I could use the three on the right for the + leads from the pups and the middle as ground but the other three? idk?
Thanks alot in advance!
Edit: the above diagram of the switch didn't come out right. Basically there are three terminals on the left, one in the center, and three on the right. Thanks again.
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Post by D2o on Jul 21, 2008 15:04:27 GMT -5
Hi midnightblue, I can't really help you much on this - sorry. But someone will be along, you've come to the right place. In the meantime, I just wanted to at least acknowledge your question and say WELCOME! to GN2! DD
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Post by midnightblue on Jul 22, 2008 0:46:36 GMT -5
Hey, thanks for the welcome. I'm hoping someone can help me out a bit before I start my trial-and-error on that switch :/
Maybe I'll upload a pick of the switch later today. Again, thanks and great to be here!
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Post by pete12345 on Jul 22, 2008 4:14:06 GMT -5
Well, there's only seven terminals, so it isn't a true double-pole switch (you would need eight) It seems like it is a single pole switch, but with duplicated terminals. The common terminals are normally tied together anyway on a stock strat. My first guess would be that the center terminal is the common, top left and bottom right are one end position, middle left and right are the central position, and the bottom left and top right are the other end position. In the 2 and 4 positions, the middle position and one end position will both be on. Have a poke around with a continuity tester (battery/bulb/pieces of wire work great ) to verify it, but that seems the most likely. Pete
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Post by midnightblue on Jul 22, 2008 14:02:06 GMT -5
Hey, thanks Pete. I'm pretty sure you're right. Now, say if I'm hooking up my three positive terminals from pups to the three on the switch, and I'm also grounding my pups to the tone cap, can't I just ground the switch to the tone cap also, or perhaps the trem claw?
So what I'm saying is... three terminals would be left empty on the switch, the common (middle) would go to the volume pot, and I could just ground the switch itself to the tone pot? Is that right?
Thanks alot for any help guys!
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Post by pete12345 on Jul 22, 2008 14:38:19 GMT -5
You want a tone control for the bridge, and another for the neck, right? In that case, you use the extra contacts on the switch. Connect the neck tone pot to the terminal for the neck position, likewise with the bridge tone pot. The center terminal of both go to the tone capacitor (assuming you only use one) and the other leg of the cap goes to ground. There will be no tone control for middle only.
Alternatively, if you use separate tone caps, wire each tone pot/cap around the respective pickup.
Pete
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Post by D2o on Jul 22, 2008 14:43:36 GMT -5
Do you mean to the volume pot?
DD
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Post by midnightblue on Jul 22, 2008 18:23:43 GMT -5
Do you mean to the volume pot? DD Ah, yes, sorry. lol Then I'd have some REAL problems I've got it basically all wired up, all that's left is install my tuners on the neck then attach the neck, then string her up....and maybe post a few pics up here. THANKS GUYS!
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Post by ashcatlt on Jul 22, 2008 21:28:17 GMT -5
You're already done?
How'd you do it? I couldn't figure out a way to accomplish #1 from your OP with the switch you've got, nor even a more standard strat switch which actually has two seperate common terminals.*
The frame of the switch itself only needs to be grounded as a "best practice" shielding kind of thing. Assuming it's a strat-style pickgaurd which have shielded per QTB (you have, no?), the foil shield would accomplish this switch framing grounding. In standard strat wiring, none of the terminals actually connect directly to ground.
* Actually, I figured out how to almost get there with a standard 5-way. The HB split would only happen when the push-pull was set to series, in parallel it would still be a parallel HB.
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Post by midnightblue on Jul 22, 2008 21:52:59 GMT -5
You're already done? How'd you do it? I couldn't figure out a way to accomplish #1 from your OP with the switch you've got, nor even a more standard strat switch which actually has two seperate common terminals.* The frame of the switch itself only needs to be grounded as a "best practice" shielding kind of thing. Assuming it's a strat-style pickgaurd which have shielded per QTB (you have, no?), the foil shield would accomplish this switch framing grounding. In standard strat wiring, none of the terminals actually connect directly to ground. * Actually, I figured out how to almost get there with a standard 5-way. The HB split would only happen when the push-pull was set to series, in parallel it would still be a parallel HB. There is actually a link from guitarelectronics.com that I used that shows how to tap into the top coil from the HB. I used that schematic as well as a SD schematic I found for the push pull pot. I did "ghetto" test it by plugging her in and bringing in my other guitar's strings to the pups, but nothing is for sure yet due to the fact that I'm having difficulties with the neck and tuning pegs right now. You can find that thread in the "luthier" section of this forum lol. I'll put some pics up after I get everything settled.
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Post by ashcatlt on Jul 22, 2008 23:13:05 GMT -5
Okay, let's rephrase that question. I can dig the series/parallel thing, and I can figure out how to do the HSS thing (in fact, I'm pretty sure I found the one to which you're referring, links would be nice, though), the missing information is how exactly did you shoehorn the one into the other.
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Post by ashcatlt on Jul 24, 2008 0:10:05 GMT -5
OK, seriously here. L'il help?
As far as I can tell these "auto-split" things work on a standard series wired HB either by shorting the coil which always connects to ground or by shunt the coil which always hangs from hot*.
In either case, I can't see how you avoid shorting the entire output **EDIT** when the HB is in local parallel **/EDIT** in the 2 position.
* I know, it's actually hanging from the switch...
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diggidy
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by diggidy on Aug 17, 2008 21:58:02 GMT -5
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