Shielding Pick guard

[garryb]

I am in the process of shielding a 2008 American Stratocaster, and while the rear of the pick guard has some factory applied shielding (what looks like aluminum foil) it doesn't cover the whole back.

Will it cause any problems if I use copper tape to fill in the missing areas, overlapping the aluminum foil, or should I remove the aluminum foil altogether and just use copper tape?

I have already shielded all the cavities with copper tape so I guess there may be a problem with the contact between the copper overlapping the cavities and the aluminum foil on the pick guard?

Any help would be much appreciated.

[newey]

garryb-

Hello and Welcome!

I just shield right over the aluminish stuff, don't worry about it. Just be sure that the pots contact your new layer of copper, and be sure that the copper on the guard contacts the copper in your cavity. It's usually best to have the cavity shielding run "up and over" the edge, so that one or more pickguard screws are incorporated.

And check all the shielding for continuity between the various strips and pieces thereof.

[kamilu]

Hi all
I'm new to this forum but have known the original guitarnuts site for years and wanted to do the shielding thing on my strat for a long long time. And now's the time!
I have some questions regarding shielding the pick guard though (hence the "capturing" of this thread):
1) Why is it recommended to cover the entire area of the pick guard's back when most of the area covers solid body (pun intended ;D ) and not only shield around the pick up holes and the areas that form the "lid" of the cavities?
2) In this thread (and other threads) you talk about the shielding material should touch the pick guard mounting screws. By this do you mean the screws that keep the pick guard mounted to the body or the pick up height adjusting screws?
3) If the first case, why is that neccessary?
Best regards,
Kamilu

[newey]

Kamilu-

Hello and Welcome!

1) Why is it recommended to cover the entire area of the pick guard's back when most of the area covers solid body (pun intended ;D ) and not only shield around the pick up holes and the areas that form the "lid" of the cavities?

It's not really necessary to shield under the areas of the pickguard which overlie the body. It's just easier to do the whole guard rather than trying to "guess" at whether individual pieces of shielding are making good electrical contact. Running it to the edge and incorporating several pick guard screws ensures good contact across the entire surface, once you screw the guard in place.

2) In this thread (and other threads) you talk about the shielding material should touch the pick guard mounting screws. By this do you mean the screws that keep the pick guard mounted to the body or the pick up height adjusting screws?

See #1 above.

3) If the first case, why is that neccessary?

The shielding in your cavity must be electrically continuous with the shielding on the underside of the guard in order to effectuate noise reduction. Since a Strat guard is only held down at the edges, it has to make contact at the edges.

[newey]

To get a visual sense of it, consider Ozboomer's guard shielding, done with aluminum foil and spray adhesive,



It doesn't matter which screws make contact with the cavity shielding, since any one will be in contact with the guard.

And here's Oz's cavity shielding job. You can see that the foil runs up and over the sides, and covers the screw holes for at least 3 pickguard screws, along the lower edge of the control cavity.



Good luck with your project, and let us know your results!

[kamilu]

Thanks for an immediate answer.
For the purpose of keeping the pickguard shield in tight contact with the cavity shield. Off Course! That makes sense
And nice pics too...

I still need to hunt down some ring terminals in local shops before I start the project, I'll return with the result (or more questions)

Best Regards
Kamilu

[ChrisK]

I still need to hunt down some ring terminals in local shops...

I haven't been to Denmark since 1981, so I'm not familiar with the current types of shops, but a home improvement or auto parts store may have ring (electrical crimp) terminals.

[kamilu]

Hi all
I promised to get back with the result or questions.
And I have a question.
I have found all the parts and have begun soldering. But I can't figure out where to solder the shield braid of the 2 lead cable going to the jack. (At the jack end it is explained straight ahead at guitarnuts.com).
I would imagine it should be soldered to the shielding foil, but I'd rather ask first.
Best regards

[newey]

I would imagine it should be soldered to the shielding foil, but I'd rather ask first.

If you're using copper foil for shielding (thus enabling soldering directly onto the shield), that's as good an approach as any.

If you're using aluminum, solder won't hold to it, so you have to run a wire to the ground lug, or screw it down separately to the shielding (screw and a ring terminal will work ok).

Whichever method you use, check for continuity between the braided shield and the shielding foil before you button it up.

[sumgai]

kamilu,

Welcome to the NutzHouse! ;D (garryb, that goes for you too!!)

To clarify, since you've asked about attaching the shield (of the output lead) directly to the cavity/pickguard copper shielding, one would assume that you are not using the capacitor for safety against a possible amplifier defect. In that case, I would suggest that you not spend time on a ring terminal for your ground connections. You can still get a "star grounding system" by using the back of a pot, if you're looking to accomplish that feat. But, if you elect to go this route, then you must make sure that the pot shafts, washers and/or nuts do not make contact with the pickguard's copper shielding. Allowing such contact re-introduces ground loops all over again, thus partially defeating the purpose of a star grounding system.

HTH



sumgai

[kamilu]

Thanks for the responses.
In fact, I am going all the way with security capacitor, ring terminator around a pot and all. So where exactly will I attach the output cable shield?

By the way, the only capacitor I could find with the proper values (400V, 330pF) was a polypropylene kind of type that looks like a light blue LEGO brick. Not a metal film type. Will that have any impact? Security/electro shock wise? Soundwise?

Best Regards, Kamilu

[newey]

Will that have any impact? Security/electro shock wise? Soundwise?

The safety capacitor is not in the signal chain, and won't affect tone. Type is unimportant so long as the values are in the ballpark.

[sumgai]

kamilu,

Type is also unimportant so long as the thing fits within the cavity without a lot of wood removal! ;D

Glad to see that you're going "whole hog". In such a case, you should attach the output jack's cable shield to the ring, along side of the lead from the "low" terminal of the volume pot, the capacitor(s) from the tone control(s), and the lead from the safety capacitor (opposite of the one connected to the cavity shielding). I see that in John Atchley's drawing, he shows the connection as directly on the "low" terminal of the volume control, with a jumper wire going to the ring. It's all the same electrically speaking, so make it work as you wish, so long as you don't let any of the wires going to the ring (nor the ring itself) make contact with the cavity shielding.

HTH



sumgai

[ChrisK]

am in the process of shielding a 2008 American Stratocaster

This might be a DAQ, but aren't the 2008 American Stratocasters already shielded?

[sumgai]

May 18, 2009 11:23:39 GMT -5 ChrisK said:

This might be a DAQ, but aren't the 2008 American Stratocasters already shielded?

I was under the impression that Fender jacked up their prices by 25% due to the recession, not due to any improvements or anything.....




sumgai