Post by ChrisK on Feb 16, 2006 20:35:43 GMT -5
Last Edit 20061016
Well, here it is. The finished guitar. Here’s a pic of the guitar top;
I used the right-side control plate layout. I used Fender SCN Tele pickups.
I used 500K dual pots for the tone and volume concentric pot. In the blending circuits, only the bottom 20% (0 to 100K) seems to make a difference in series blending, and only the top 20% (400 to 500K) makes a difference in parallel blending. I struggled with whether to use dual pots or a blend pot, and tried the dual one first. It would appear that one almost needs a reversal of taper when going from parallel to series blending (which infers the switching about of a blend pot). I used a 250k linear blend pot.
So, here’s a schematic that’s somewhat wiring diagrammatic in nature. It’s straightforward and contains all info needed (methinks, at least). A clever idea (if'n I don't say so myself) is the "relatively" independent selection of tone caps for the hi cut as well for hi freq peaking control. With a cable that measures about 650 pF, the 330 pF cap has little discernable effect. A buffer is in order to take advantage of peaking at the higher freqs. The hi cut gives 0.015 uF ( ;D unk), 0.022 uF, and 0.047 uF.
The finished instance is in the Gallery;
guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=music&thread=1163644536&page=1
I've left the older stuff here in case anyone is referencing it.
Last Edit 20060315
Well, I built the latter circuit. The different sounds of these pickups in anti-series (normal), single (top) coil, and series are very similar in tone, just about 2 dB and 3 dB louder.
I used 500K dual pots for everything. In the blending circuits, only the bottom 20% (0 to 100K) seems to make a difference in series blending, and only the top 20% (400 to 500K) makes a difference in parallel blending. I struggled with whether to use dual pots or a blend pot, and tried the dual one first. It would appear that one almost needs a reversal of taper when going from parallel to series blending (which infers the switching about of a blend pot).
I am unimpressed!
I will most likely convert this to a (fairly, it's me after all) "normal" Tele control scheme.
Edit 20060223
Since I like to use hum canceling PU’s whenever I find ones that I like (Fender Vintage Noiseless Tele bridge and SD Vintage Stack Tele neck), and a Tele, even w/ the 4way switch just ain’t demented enough, I had to come up w/ a 5way scheme that incorporated some of the blending stuff that others and I had been thinking about, while preserving the normal (and series) Tele configurations.
Oh yeah, and interpickup electrical phase reversal too.
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/TeleVVpot2as.jpg
Here’s a pic of the control plate top. One of the sub-mini toggle switches (the front one) will change the neck PU polarity only in position 3. The rear one will select between bridge and neck in parallel vs. series, only in position 3. The middle concentric pot blends each of the PU’s in, in both series as well as parallel, again only in position 3. The sub-mini switches are available from Radio Shack ($4). They really do fit next to the lever switch!
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/DSC04386.jpg
Here’s a pic of the control plate bottom (sans wiring). I may add PP pots in lieu of the CTS ones to get the neck and bridge intrapickup humbucker coils in parallel or series. Since these are traditional SC magnets w/ two windings, I believe that they are internally subtractive in phase and the real tone change may well be to put the coils in series IN phase (non-humbucking). We’ll see.
Edited 20060219
After confirming postings w/ a Fender guy, the Tele Vintage Noiseless PU is indeed in a series subtractive configuration. This indicates that both the top coil alone (hot before the subtraction of the bottom coil signal) and both coils in a series additive configuration (?arc welder) may be usefull. Since the SD Tele Vintage Stack neck PU has the same magnet structure (and fortunately is of opposite magnetic polarity), it too may posses these modes (I've read allusions to such).
Although I'd replaced the two 250K CTS pots in the control plate w/ 500K PP pots (but have not started wiring), I want more than two PU modes (if more than two do indeed exist). As a result, the actual control plate may be comprised of the 5way switch, a concentric volume/tone, a concentric blend/blend, and between the pots, a DPDT for neck phase in position 3, A DPDT for series/parallel in pos. 3, and a 2P3T (4P3T ON-ON-ON) to select one of the three modes for both PU's. I don't think that four mini-toggles (in a 2 x 2 config) are manipulable. Two bottom row ones and a top row one in between may well be (see the Tele body in my ToggleCaster design).
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/DSC04387.jpg
Edited 20060223
Well, I has to have the PU mode selections too. As a result, I have a modified design.
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/Tele3WaySer_ParVVpot3CEK20060223s.jpg
Well, here it is. The finished guitar. Here’s a pic of the guitar top;
I used the right-side control plate layout. I used Fender SCN Tele pickups.
I used 500K dual pots for the tone and volume concentric pot. In the blending circuits, only the bottom 20% (0 to 100K) seems to make a difference in series blending, and only the top 20% (400 to 500K) makes a difference in parallel blending. I struggled with whether to use dual pots or a blend pot, and tried the dual one first. It would appear that one almost needs a reversal of taper when going from parallel to series blending (which infers the switching about of a blend pot). I used a 250k linear blend pot.
So, here’s a schematic that’s somewhat wiring diagrammatic in nature. It’s straightforward and contains all info needed (methinks, at least). A clever idea (if'n I don't say so myself) is the "relatively" independent selection of tone caps for the hi cut as well for hi freq peaking control. With a cable that measures about 650 pF, the 330 pF cap has little discernable effect. A buffer is in order to take advantage of peaking at the higher freqs. The hi cut gives 0.015 uF ( ;D unk), 0.022 uF, and 0.047 uF.
The finished instance is in the Gallery;
guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=music&thread=1163644536&page=1
I've left the older stuff here in case anyone is referencing it.
Last Edit 20060315
Well, I built the latter circuit. The different sounds of these pickups in anti-series (normal), single (top) coil, and series are very similar in tone, just about 2 dB and 3 dB louder.
I used 500K dual pots for everything. In the blending circuits, only the bottom 20% (0 to 100K) seems to make a difference in series blending, and only the top 20% (400 to 500K) makes a difference in parallel blending. I struggled with whether to use dual pots or a blend pot, and tried the dual one first. It would appear that one almost needs a reversal of taper when going from parallel to series blending (which infers the switching about of a blend pot).
I am unimpressed!
I will most likely convert this to a (fairly, it's me after all) "normal" Tele control scheme.
Edit 20060223
Since I like to use hum canceling PU’s whenever I find ones that I like (Fender Vintage Noiseless Tele bridge and SD Vintage Stack Tele neck), and a Tele, even w/ the 4way switch just ain’t demented enough, I had to come up w/ a 5way scheme that incorporated some of the blending stuff that others and I had been thinking about, while preserving the normal (and series) Tele configurations.
Oh yeah, and interpickup electrical phase reversal too.
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/TeleVVpot2as.jpg
Here’s a pic of the control plate top. One of the sub-mini toggle switches (the front one) will change the neck PU polarity only in position 3. The rear one will select between bridge and neck in parallel vs. series, only in position 3. The middle concentric pot blends each of the PU’s in, in both series as well as parallel, again only in position 3. The sub-mini switches are available from Radio Shack ($4). They really do fit next to the lever switch!
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/DSC04386.jpg
Here’s a pic of the control plate bottom (sans wiring). I may add PP pots in lieu of the CTS ones to get the neck and bridge intrapickup humbucker coils in parallel or series. Since these are traditional SC magnets w/ two windings, I believe that they are internally subtractive in phase and the real tone change may well be to put the coils in series IN phase (non-humbucking). We’ll see.
Edited 20060219
After confirming postings w/ a Fender guy, the Tele Vintage Noiseless PU is indeed in a series subtractive configuration. This indicates that both the top coil alone (hot before the subtraction of the bottom coil signal) and both coils in a series additive configuration (?arc welder) may be usefull. Since the SD Tele Vintage Stack neck PU has the same magnet structure (and fortunately is of opposite magnetic polarity), it too may posses these modes (I've read allusions to such).
Although I'd replaced the two 250K CTS pots in the control plate w/ 500K PP pots (but have not started wiring), I want more than two PU modes (if more than two do indeed exist). As a result, the actual control plate may be comprised of the 5way switch, a concentric volume/tone, a concentric blend/blend, and between the pots, a DPDT for neck phase in position 3, A DPDT for series/parallel in pos. 3, and a 2P3T (4P3T ON-ON-ON) to select one of the three modes for both PU's. I don't think that four mini-toggles (in a 2 x 2 config) are manipulable. Two bottom row ones and a top row one in between may well be (see the Tele body in my ToggleCaster design).
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/DSC04387.jpg
Edited 20060223
Well, I has to have the PU mode selections too. As a result, I have a modified design.
i37.photobucket.com/albums/e84/cekikta/TeleBlender/Tele3WaySer_ParVVpot3CEK20060223s.jpg