mcshine
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by mcshine on Jan 30, 2009 6:34:49 GMT -5
Hello, Can anyone see any fatal problems with this one? I've not wired it up yet so i would appreciate a heads up The switch positions noted at the top are as seen from the front of the scatchplate. As far as i can tell the only "dead" zone is that the pickups cannot be selected individually when the series/parallel switch is in the series position, but i cant see a problem there. Any observations welcome ;D
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Post by newey on Jan 30, 2009 6:56:18 GMT -5
McShine-
Just at first glance, the lettering for the "South Finish" on the bridge HB is very faint, and I don't see a corresponding wire. Maybe it's in there and I just can't see it because the color is too light, but as it is there's only 3 wires coming out of your HB. The switch to split the north coil doesn't look right as a result, nothing is wired to the upper lug.
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Post by ashcatlt on Jan 30, 2009 12:13:02 GMT -5
There's a wire there, but it's white on white. If you squint at the spot where it crosses the black outline of the switch....
Anyway, it goes to the middle lug with the green wire, since that's the series connection for the humbucker. Nothing needs to connect to the top lug. This could just as easily be an SPST on/off.
Looks like the whole thing works as intended. The bridge is hanging from hot, but these are the choices we make. If it weren't that you'd have to short it out. Of course, you're already shorting middle when it's not in use.
And, you know, if these phase/pickup selectors were DPDT center on switches, you'd be shorting the unused coils, and would be able to select individuals in either mode.
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mcshine
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by mcshine on Jan 30, 2009 12:17:22 GMT -5
McShine- Just at first glance, the lettering for the "South Finish" on the bridge HB is very faint, and I don't see a corresponding wire. Maybe it's in there and I just can't see it because the color is too light, but as it is there's only 3 wires coming out of your HB. The switch to split the north coil doesn't look right as a result, nothing is wired to the upper lug. Sorry, i dont know why i didn't just make it a different colour, the white wire (South finnish) is connected to the middle lug along with the Green wire (North start). I suppose you could just use an on/off switch because to top lug is not needed for this coil tap. Now that i look at it, i have got the red and black wires the wrong way around. The South start (black) should go the the bottom lug of the coil tap, and the North start (red) should go straight to the bridge phase switch. That way when the switch is in the the "up" position (as seen from the front of the scratchplate) the south coil is shorted out of the circuit. I'll correct the pic. Thanks for that ;D How about the rest of it?
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mcshine
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
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Post by mcshine on Jan 30, 2009 12:28:05 GMT -5
The bridge is hanging from hot, but these are the choices we make. If it weren't that you'd have to short it out. Of course, you're already shorting middle when it's not in use. And, you know, if these phase/pickup selectors were DPDT center on switches, you'd be shorting the unused coils, and would be able to select individuals in either mode. Great idea with the "centre on" switches I'm fairly new to this stuff, what do you mean by "the bridge is hanging from hot"? Do you mean the bridge is directly connected the output? Is that a bad thing? Thanks again
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Post by pete12345 on Jan 30, 2009 12:28:12 GMT -5
One thing I can see is that you can't turn the middle pickup off in parallel mode without turning off the whole thing. The neck pickup also won't work in series mode as both wires are shorted together by the series/parallel switch.
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Post by JohnH on Jan 30, 2009 13:44:46 GMT -5
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Post by ashcatlt on Jan 30, 2009 17:20:38 GMT -5
One thing I can see is that you can't turn the middle pickup off in parallel mode without turning off the whole thing. The neck pickup also won't work in series mode as both wires are shorted together by the series/parallel switch. Good catch on both of these! Shows how hard I tried... I think the second part is fixed if we remove the jumper on the S/P switch. Not getting anything on that middle one right now.
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