Bass VI - series or parallel?

[sheutran]

To bring a little precision about the "beeping contact" between metal parts, I have to say that every other part but the bridge pickup make contact between them, and in whatever switch configuration you want. The open/closed contact issue only concern the bridge pickup parts. I thought it wasn't clear enough on my previous message. Thanks

[newey]

Hmmm. None of that seems to be making much sense. I'm awaiting someone else to chime in on this problem, I'm stumped.

I wonder if the 3 black leads that are supposed to come from the neg. tip of each single coil is really running directly from these or if it has hidden contacts

Do these pickups have a cover? At this point,some well- focused photos of the wiring you've got may help someone spot something.

[ChristoMephisto]

The metal parts that wrap around the pup are called claws. Same concept as the metal plate on a tele bridge pup or humbucker covers and need it's own ground. When doing series they should be separated from the pup ground wire and given its own wire to ground it. You don't need to physically separate them.
Once that's done you should get better readings from your meter when in series mode. Since the bridge is about 12k and the mid/neck are both about 6k, we'll...you can do the math.

Another wiring idea that could be used if you don't want the strangle switch is to wire the middle and neck to two switches that run sc or parallel when one or both are up. Series when both are down.
Then repeat that with the bridge and the n/m on the other two switches. Bridge or n/m when one is up or parallel when both up. Series when both down B*N/M
The n/m pup grounds from the first two switches connect to the latter switches.
This gives you 6 series combos on top of the stock 7 parallel combos with no dead spots.

My Oly Bass VI is currently wired with the 'Dan Armstrong 12 postion' cause I found a dp3t slide switch to function as the on/on/on switch. Altho I may simplify it and keep the n/m switching and making the bridge either parallel or series to the front pair.
B*(N+M) is by far my favourite.

[sheutran]

First, thanks for sharing knowledge ! But maybe I had such a intense weekend that I don't understand anymore any explanation about wiring ideas !!
haha, so yes I was talking about claws grounding (or shielding right ?) and the stock pickup don't have cover.

So I just got lost when reading Christo's advices on how to tweak the 4 switch plate to get series/parallel combination ! Does it require to buy new switches (and like what is the difference between "on/off/on switch"  and "on/on/on switch" ? Or how do you call these two types of switch ? thanks )

As for me, I don't have a good enough camera to get close and sharp pictures  of my work but I will look forward to it !

Thank you again for your help so far !

[newey]

(and like what is the difference between "on/off/on switch" and "on/on/on switch" ? Or how do you call these two types of switch ?

They are both "Double-pole, double throw" switches ("DPDT"). Both look the same physically, both have 6 connecting lugs arranged like a "6" on a domino. The difference comes in how the switches connect internally when in the center position.



When working with On-On-On switches, it is important to bear in mind that they are not rotationally symmetric. I always have to mark the switch so I know which way it connects in the center position

[sheutran]

This is a brilliant explanation ! Thank you very much indeed !!

[ChristoMephisto]

I'd you're using all four switches for the pup control, you can use the stock on/on switches.

Haven't been able to find a 2p3t switch the size of the stock switches. Either too large to too small. Did find one one ebay that fit but is skinnier and had a tall switch that I took a dremel to.
They don't make slide switches that operate as the on-on-on toggle as shown above.

[newey]

They don't make slide switches that operate as the on-on-on toggle as shown above.

CM is right, I'd forgotten we were talking slide switches. Their lugs are arranged differently, and the 3-position ones I've seen usually have 8 lugs, arranged as 2 rows of 4. If need be and you find specific switches you want to use, we can always supply the switch logic.

[sheutran]

Hello everyone !
Yes I'm back, years after my first post. I recently worked on that with a good electronician by my side so we found out what was going wrong on my project.

With my Squier bass VI, the diagram as provided here by mercu80 is correct and works, WHEN the middle pickup (i mean the only pickup into which, the two others are driven in series) has to be "completely" isolated from the common ground.
Explanations: take out the pickup you chose to be the last in your chain, and insulate or isolate sorry, the connecting surfaces like the claw around, and the two springs under, from the wooden caviry of the body. It's because Squier doesn't have pickup with + and - and "common" lead. They just coat the cavity with contact surface and this is the reason why, when you engage the serie switch mode, you can only hear one pickup, because its negative lead (that is supposed to receive the signal coming from the two others) is still in contact to the ground, through the metal parts it contains. I just used tape around and little rubber pads in between the springs and the bottom of the pickup. And done! Without any noise or electrical hum, tested on several rigs now !!
I really is a good mod for this instrument ! Less chorus, more grunt ☺️

Best regards

[ChristoMephisto]

Think I may know your problem, did you separate the metal claw, solder a new wire to it and run to ground?

[bigtone23]

I wired my VI with the diagram found in post #11. I reversed the orientation so the pickups are on when the switch is down/towards the toes so I don't kill the signal when I get a little crazy with the picking hand! 
No issues, works and sounds great. I did separate and run individual ground wires to each pickup claw.