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Post by simes on Jul 23, 2010 1:45:46 GMT -5
Hi.
I don't use vibrato bridges, don't like them, and therefore know relatively little about them.
However, I am participating in a project that should see the production of several guitars, some of them trem-equipped.
What would you suggest as good options for a "traditional" (i.e. not floating) F-style vibrato bridge? The basic requirements are for it to stay more or less in tune (although I suppose that depends more on the tuners) and for it to be the same height as a Strat bridge.
Also, what would be some suitable locking tuners to accompany? To what extent are these necessary? Would good quality "normal" tuners be sufficient?
Cheers,
Simes
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Post by chuck on Jul 23, 2010 13:24:28 GMT -5
well , the traditional Strat vibrato was designed as a floating bridge. they can be very stable if set up properly.
i have read that the Wilkenson vibrato bridges are supposed to be very high quality.
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Post by simes on Jul 24, 2010 7:35:45 GMT -5
Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the answer.
Is that Wilkinson a traditional "screwed in" vibrato, or is it one of those that are set on two posts? I don't mean Floyd Rose type, but more like a Strat trem with two pivot points.
I'm looking for a recognised "name bridge", like the Wilkinson, as the individuals who the guitars are destined to will require that kind of thing rather than, say, G*S or similar.
Cheers,
Simes
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Post by newey on Jul 24, 2010 8:17:44 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure they make both types. The 6-screw types are generally marketed as "vintage style", the 2-point ones are generally called "floating" or "2 point".
They definitely make the 6-screw type as I have several on guitars.
Wilkinson makes a good piece at a decent price, I don't know that the brand has the high-end cachet that you may be looking for. Callaham and Schaller make the real hi-end stuff, for (obviously) considerably more money.
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Post by simes on Jul 24, 2010 11:14:49 GMT -5
Nah ... I don't need really high end, just good quality with a recognised name attached to it ... you know how these people are ...
I'll look into Wilkinson's European distributors.
I'm intrigued by the 2-point thing, though. Given that much of the "resonance" transfer must be lost by having your bridge hanging loosely off 6 screws at the whim of some springs, I wonder if two solidly anchored posts might not be the way forward ...
Thanks, lads.
Simes
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Post by chuck on Jul 24, 2010 11:48:09 GMT -5
the traditional 6 screw vibrato only pivots on the 2 outer screws . are the inner screws necessary ? i have seen players who have some of the inner ones removed , and they seem to stay in tune
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Post by newey on Jul 24, 2010 12:23:30 GMT -5
Simes- The 2-point ones have the posts solidly attached to the guitar, but the rest of the bridge isn't attached to the posts- it just "rides" on the posts. Chuck is right, the 6-screw ones don't pivot on all 6 screws, only the 2 which are the tightest- but not necessarily the 2 outer ones. I like the stability of the 6-screw ones, since I tighten them down all the way, install all the springs, remove the trem arm, and don't use the thing!
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Post by simes on Jul 24, 2010 12:40:29 GMT -5
... or fill it in with wood, and add a hardtail bridge and ferrules, which is what I did ... but that's beside the point ...
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Post by chuck on Jul 24, 2010 13:58:29 GMT -5
beside which point ? the 2 pivot points ?
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Post by ijustwannastrat on Jul 24, 2010 17:07:29 GMT -5
I prefer buying hardtails, simply because they you need not fill in the trem vibrato cavity hole.
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Post by chuck on Jul 24, 2010 17:15:13 GMT -5
hardtail / fixed fixed bridges are sooo much simpler aren't they ?
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Post by 4real on Jul 25, 2010 5:49:16 GMT -5
I really like trems but they can be a little tricky, especially if floating. I now use Kahlers which are expensive and great in many ways, but probably out of contention there... Plus...any trem in my experience has more problems with the other end of the guitar. I hate things like floyds for lots of reasons and I think they are unnecessary these days. Locking tuners are a must I believe, they are so convenient regardless of trems and generally pretty good in quality. I used shallers on my fender style guitars with staggered posts, and my last guitar had sperzels which seem ok. Next one I might try grovers, but most makers seem to be doing them and there would appear to be some more budget models about as well. The nut is important, the best I have used is the LSR on my tele with full floating trem and locking tuners and no string trees. My strat is a high end squier and I rather like it's two post contemporary fulcrum strat type trem. I've set up decent 6 screw fender copies as well, but the two post things are in my opinion "better" as these knife edge pivots are set into decent sized threaded bushings in the body and you can get a fair bit of adjustment out of them. If you set up a trem to be "down only" EVH style and put enough tension on the strings, trems can stay very well in tune and even allow for tuning down the D string or oblique country bends and such without tuning issues. I like mine to float and you can work that out pretty well with a bit of attention. So, can't speak to brands particularly, had some 2 point pivot things by gotoh that look a little PRS I suppose, a bit more molded and chrome-y, comfortable but the more basic style suits me. My recent guitar and I think my strat use teflon impregnated nuts, tusq XL and you can get them in black or white now. Seem to be reasonable, not as good as an LSR...and really you need a straight strings pull over the nut as in a fender or see my mod in the Kahler thread for my LP. A conventional nut is going to struggle. On my strat I also used roller string trees, if string trees are going to be necessary then these should be considered seriously. LSR's ahve dampening pads and locking tuners will be staggered for such guitars so you can get away without them, but there will always be a place for them. There are "cheap" answers to many of these "problems" that I used to do. You can learn to "lock" strings in the way you tie them and minimize the number of wraps around the posts. You could add some washers progressively behind conventional tuners to create a "staggered post height", copper plumbing pipe washers are generally exactly the right size, not too heavy and add a little mass to the headstock that can be a good thing. Even string trees can be adjusted to applying 'just enough' pressure to stop vibrations behind the nut and pressure on it and allowed to "rock" with the string rather than being screwed tight. So, not a conclusive brand, wilkinson and gotoh make some reasonable lower cost items that can look good and I prefer the two post design and will appear to be more of a "feature" and less "fender wanna be" than a traditional fender bridge. A lot depends on the design though and the kind of look a feel that you are after... But trems, the fashions come and go but it should depend more on the player and the music. I like them and can get away with full floating traditional trems well set up, a tighter down only trem would be no different than a hard tail for myself. I inserted a bit of wood in my brothers strat and screwed the springs hard to make an effective hardtail and that is always an "option" with a trem guitar, harder to make a hardtail into a trem
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Post by simes on Jul 26, 2010 8:13:15 GMT -5
Great post, 4real. Thanks.
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