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Post by axekicker on Sept 18, 2010 0:13:53 GMT -5
I thought I knew how to do this, but for some reason, this latest installation isn't working. When I attach the momentary switch, it has the reverse effect, turning the guitar on when depressed instead of turning it off. I reversed the wires and the same thing happens. Any ideas? I'm installing this on an old Kramer Barretta with a Sustainer; not sure if that has something to do with it. Thanks.
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Post by thetragichero on Sept 18, 2010 0:43:01 GMT -5
sounds like you picked up the wrong switch
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Post by newey on Sept 18, 2010 7:54:23 GMT -5
Momentary switches are available as "normally on" or "normally off". You want the normally-on type so it disconnects when pressed.
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Post by JohnH on Sept 18, 2010 8:23:46 GMT -5
Momentary switches are available as "normally on" or "normally off". You want the normally-on type so it disconnects when pressed. Or the 'normally off' type, to short the output to ground when you press it J |
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Post by newey on Sept 18, 2010 8:40:42 GMT -5
John's right, you can use either type. I also misspoke- you'll see the switches designated as "normally open" vs. "normally closed" ("NO" and "NC")
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Post by wolf on Sept 18, 2010 13:59:05 GMT -5
Okay, there are two ways to wire a "kill" switch:  Most people (including myself) prefer the one on the right but either will work. As you may have noticed (to make things even more confusing) each switch can have 2 different names. |
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Post by ijustwannastrat on Sept 19, 2010 8:40:27 GMT -5
Just to be clear, you need to use Wolf's right side model.
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Post by wolf on Sept 19, 2010 13:14:01 GMT -5
Okay, I guess I'll explain that a little more.
The reason that ijustwannastrat wants you to use the right side circuit is because he has correctly deduced that you have a "normally open" or "momentary on" switch.
The two main reasons for the right side circuit being used more often:
• It uses the much more common momentary "on" switch. Heck if you wanted, you could use a doorbell switch for that. Yes, it would look ugly but it would work.
• That circuit actually shorts the output which produces a much cleaner cut off rather than just shutting something off.
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 19, 2010 13:23:38 GMT -5
We don't actually know how axekicker has the thing wired. Considering that we've helped him with kill switches before, I'd almost bet that he has got it wired per that right hand diagram, but has a normally closed switch.
When wolf says "cleaner cut off" I think he's referring to noise. The left hand method leaves the hot lead of the cable hanging there like a big antenna straight to the amplifier, and could get nasty pretty fast. It might not be a big deal for quick stuttering type things, until you're trying to do it in a bar with neon lights everywhere.
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Post by axekicker on Sept 19, 2010 20:23:36 GMT -5
I think ashcalt is correct. I've done a bunch of these installations. Usually to the middle post on the volume pot and to ground. I think I was sent the wrong type of switch. I also tried attaching to the jack and no dice there either. Thanks guys.
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Post by ijustwannastrat on Sept 19, 2010 21:39:44 GMT -5
Do you have a continuity tester? If so, fire her up.
If not, 9v battery, LED, and appropriate sized resistor. I enclosed it in an Altoids tin to "finish it off nicely". That was until I had to purchase a multimeter for school....
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Post by axekicker on Sept 30, 2010 0:19:07 GMT -5
I have a multimeter that I'm still learning how to use. How do I use it to test the switch? Do I just attach leads to the terminals on the switch? Thnx!
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Post by wolf on Sept 30, 2010 2:48:12 GMT -5
axekicker
Yes, you could just put the meter leads directly on the switch terminals. If the switch conducts and then stops conducting when you press it, you have a momentary off switch and you can hook it up by using the left side of that circuit diagram.
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