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Post by genmce on Sept 5, 2015 4:58:57 GMT -5
So I really want/need that 2 MB(autosplit) my bread and butter - and 1 to be HB. The B(hb) is better for solos and the MB(autosplit)is better (better quack) than MB(hb) for my funky stuff.
I can live without 2MB(HB) if I have to... I don't want to, though. I really like 2MB(hb)in series mode.
Is there anyway to use that last pole of the hb coil/cut pp?
I'm not quite sure what to move, where? Help please...
I'm also like the oop stuff on this, particularly NB(hb or split) series... So much on here.
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Post by JohnH on Sept 5, 2015 8:12:18 GMT -5
So I really want/need that 2 MB(autosplit) my bread and butter - and 1 to be HB. The B(hb) is better for solos and the MB(autosplit)is better (better quack) than MB(hb) for my funky stuff. I can live without 2MB(HB) if I have to... I don't want to, though. I really like 2MB(hb)in series mode. Is there anyway to use that last pole of the hb coil/cut pp? I'm not quite sure what to move, where? Help please... I'm also like the oop stuff on this, particularly NB(hb or split) series... So much on here. ill see what I can figure out. Is another switch out of the question? (likely a sub min toggle switch). If it is not acceptable, then the MB(hb) would likely have to go.
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Post by genmce on Sept 5, 2015 9:36:13 GMT -5
Seems like another switch would be a departure from this scheme.
Though I have room for another switch - no prob.
So - can you give me - loose the mb(HB) ?
Or would another scheme be a better fit?
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Post by JohnH on Sept 5, 2015 15:49:46 GMT -5
Seems like another switch would be a departure from this scheme. Though I have room for another switch - no prob. So - can you give me - loose the mb(HB) ? Or would another scheme be a better fit? I think it can be done, and we can use the second half of the coil cut switch to fix a problem that it would otherwise have in OOP modes, avoiding a dead setting. In position 2 OOP, there will be two versions (or 4 if you count series/parallel versions of them) depending on whether you pull the coil cut switch. In phase, it will always be M and the B single nearest to it. Only position 2 will be affected by any of this, all the others will be as they are. As to other schemes, I have nothing that does so much. But this one is how I wired my own HSS. It does most of the SPhss except no phase switch (and it inherently is not suitable for a phase switch without going pear-shaped). Its a lot simpler too: Strat SSM2
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Post by genmce on Sept 5, 2015 16:02:23 GMT -5
Seems like another switch would be a departure from this scheme. Though I have room for another switch - no prob. So - can you give me - loose the mb(HB) ? Or would another scheme be a better fit? I think it can be done, and we can use the second half of the coil cut switch to fix a problem that it would otherwise have in OOP modes, avoiding a dead setting. In position 2 OOP, there will be two versions (or 4 if you count series/parallel versions of them) depending on whether you pull the coil cut switch. In phase, it will always be M and the B single nearest to it. Only position 2 will be affected by any of this, all the others will be as they are. This sounds great! Please, when you get a chance. Thanks a bunch! True - however, since I already have the StratSPhss already going, I would rather stick with it, and mod as you suggest above. Instead of total tear out... redo.
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Post by JohnH on Sept 5, 2015 16:40:19 GMT -5
I think it can be done, and we can use the second half of the coil cut switch to fix a problem that it would otherwise have in OOP modes, avoiding a dead setting. In position 2 OOP, there will be two versions (or 4 if you count series/parallel versions of them) depending on whether you pull the coil cut switch. In phase, it will always be M and the B single nearest to it. Only position 2 will be affected by any of this, all the others will be as they are. This sounds great! Please, when you get a chance. Thanks a bunch! True - however, since I already have the StratSPhss already going, I would rather stick with it, and mod as you suggest above. Instead of total tear out... redo.
Like this:
I moved the main coil cut wires so it splits when you pull it, which I think is where you ended up with it?
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Post by genmce on Sept 5, 2015 16:47:18 GMT -5
Like this: I moved the main coil cut wires so it splits when you pull it, which I think is where you ended up with it? WOW! That was fast, thanks so much! I have it down split still. So I should flip the pp, if I intend to keep it that way? I will get to this later tonight, after dinner with the wife, can't wait! Hey it only has 3 untouched lugs! That is very impressive!
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Post by JohnH on Sept 5, 2015 17:06:12 GMT -5
Like this: I moved the main coil cut wires so it splits when you pull it, which I think is where you ended up with it? WOW! That was fast, thanks so much! I have it down split still. So I should flip the pp, if I intend to keep it that way? I will get to this later tonight, after dinner with the wife, can't wait! Hey it only has 3 untouched lugs! That is very impressive! Yes, in that case, keep the left side as you have it and swap the new outer wires on the right side of the coil cut switch. The new diagonal wire will now go from left middle to right lower, assuming its all currently as last weeks diagram
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Post by genmce on Sept 6, 2015 7:43:04 GMT -5
That was an easy modification, thank you very much!
Comments - IT ROCKS! I have the pp up for hb, working as it should. I can do my MB(split) or NM(split) and go to B(hb) in one move! (just slap 5 way back) I now feel free to explore... I am enjoying the NB both hb and split - especially with series rolled on about 5 - 7.
My bread and butter with plenty to explore.
I'm going to try this on the Danoblaster now, I have been waiting for this. I'll post over that about my progress.
Thanks again!
EDIT - oops, I missed one - 4 untouched lugs.
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Post by Runewalker on Feb 5, 2016 13:45:31 GMT -5
A lot of discussion here and a patient person read through all of this to answer the questions below. I blame my lack of patience here on being in an airport awaiting to board after a week of biz travel and trying to do this on a phone screen....
2 questions:
Did I read it right that the "fader" control is disabled in system parallel so that all you have is a master vol. and master tone with no ability to manage the mix of the combo pups?
When the fader is working in system series does it only roll in or out the "bassiest" pup? So for example in the N*B combo you could not control the mix volume of the Bridge... only having the ability to roll the Neck in or out of hehe combo?
Thanks
RW
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Post by JohnH on Feb 5, 2016 14:44:45 GMT -5
A lot of discussion here and a patient person read through all of this to answer the questions below. I blame my lack of patience here on being in an airport awaiting to board after a week of biz travel and trying to do this on a phone screen.... 2 questions: Did I read it right that the "fader" control is disabled in system parallel so that all you have is a master vol. and master tone with no ability to manage the mix of the combo pups? When the fader is working in system series does it only roll in or out the "bassiest" pup? So for example in the N*B combo you could not control the mix volume of the Bridge... only having the ability to roll the Neck in or out of hehe combo? Thanks RW Yes that is right. Its intended as a 'preset' control to set up a series tone that is not too thick that you can leave in position and change to when moving from parallel mode, without the parallel mode being compromised by the fade knob. Anticipating a further question: If the fade knob was changed to a 250k linear pot, opened up and a section of track removed at mid position, it could then in series mode only, pan fully between the two selected coils instead of just to the bassier side, with a fully series mix at mid turn. However, to do that makes it difficult while also having the coil-cut switch on the same pot, so that would be a separate switch and use a standard full-sized pot for fade. Have a nice flight.
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Post by Runewalker on Feb 11, 2016 23:23:21 GMT -5
"Anticipating a further question: ..."
Boy I hate being so easily read and anticipated.
but yes the inability to control the volume mix bothers me.
I will think about this some more. It is a remarkable design.... just trying to template it against my biases.
the blender helps... and of course extra switches never freaked me out.
thanks John.
RW
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Post by genmce on Apr 30, 2016 22:55:19 GMT -5
Hey,
I love this wiring on the white mim strat. I have not moded anything since. I really like paralell nm, mb(split) and b(humbucker) as well as series nb.
Anyway, so now I'm looking at the American strat and it has an S1 switch, with 2 pp pots. Should I just use two poles like the push pull in the diagram or is there something else that I should/could do with the rest of the s1 switches remaining 2 poles?
Suggestions on how to incorporate the S1 into this diagram?
Thanks.
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Post by JohnH on May 1, 2016 0:21:48 GMT -5
Hi genmce I'm glad this design worked out for you. I cant see any problem using an S1 switch in place of one of the pp switches. Rather than redraw the working diagram (and risk gremlins), you could probably just follow the base diagram, translating just for the S1. Here is a diagram showing the connections for a S1. To use more of the s1 poles, youd have to think of something that you would like to happen at the same time as something else. I think Id not complicate the design in the first instance until you have tried it on the new guitar. One factor that might led to something is, what pickups will you have? standard SC's or noiseless? The design is optimised for standard SC's, in terms of noise cancelling.
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Post by genmce on May 1, 2016 9:15:23 GMT -5
John, Thanks for diagram. I appreciate it. I hope you are well.
Doesn't look bad... when I adjust my brain, I see how the poles work. I agree no need for a new diagram. Shouldn't be too tough...
Pickups - departing from the diagram slightly - Not noiseless.
B - full size stock fender HB M - I believe rw sc .... N - SD SL59 (hb)
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Post by JohnH on May 1, 2016 15:23:42 GMT -5
John, Thanks for diagram. I appreciate it. I hope you are well. Doesn't look bad... when I adjust my brain, I see how the poles work. I agree no need for a new diagram. Shouldn't be too tough... Pickups - departing from the diagram slightly - Not noiseless. B - full size stock fender HB M - I believe rw sc .... N - SD SL59 (hb) OK, sounds like a project! Maybe you might like to add coil-split to the neck PU as well (assuming you have 4 wires)? That would use one extra pole. One logic would be that this would be the second pole on the same switch that splits the bridge, but it doesn't have to be. On this design, N and B pickups are always available at positions 1 and 5, so for example you could put neck split on the same switch as series/parallel. This would give you better (less boomy) series combination options and also let you independently set up coil cuts for B and N. Id suggest to make sure all coil splits end up hum cancelling with the M pickup. just a watch-it: It looks like maybe you have a mixed bag of pickups from different makes? Its a classic case for running into issues of phase, wire colours and non-optimum humcancelling. It can definitely all be sorted out but if it was mine, I would do a full set of screwdriver pull-off tests and polarity checks before determining which wire will go where.
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leon1
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Post by leon1 on Oct 17, 2016 14:07:57 GMT -5
Dear John,
I wanna give it a go. My strat is equiped with Lace gold Sensors single coils (5, 71 K Ohm) output. I want to buy a SD Single coil Humbucker Little '59 strat (11,7 K ohm) or a JB jr. Strat (15,2 K ohm). a) Can I use your schematic as it is, or do I need to adjust the cap values / the resistor value (now 150K )? B) Can I still use the 500 K log pots? C) What humbucker is prefered: the 11,7 K or 15,2 K, since the Laces are 5,71 K?
Greetz, Leon (the Netherlands)
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Post by JohnH on Oct 17, 2016 15:19:58 GMT -5
Hi Leon; welcome to GN2
It should all work as drawn, and Id suggest all the same values. You are getting a Seymour Duncan HB, and the wire colours already assume that. What is uncertain is how the phase will work between the bridge and the other pickups, since you are mixing makes. You may need to swap green and black on the HB, or, swap the Lace signal wires. Unknown as yet. You can test before wiring using the scredriver pull off test, see our reference section.
Do the Laces have 3 wires? If so, one is a screen wire that goes to ground. It should not be directly connected to the other wires and doesnt carry a signal. It goes to the pot case.
Since all your pickups are humcancelling, you should be all hum free unless you split the bridge.
Personally, since tbe Lace Golds are supposed to be low output, id go with the '59 for a better balance.
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leon1
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Post by leon1 on Oct 17, 2016 15:40:47 GMT -5
John,
No, the Lace sensor have 2 wires.
Thanks for the quick response. I need to order the parts first. As soon as I start the build, I will post my findings on the forum.
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Post by leon1 on Oct 19, 2016 9:27:04 GMT -5
Dear John, The parts are ordered. Shipping in from Germany. So now it's just waiting. Just to be sure A) On the super switch, are the numbers 1-5 positioned on the front waffle? (or does it not matter; front vs. back waffle. Construction wise)? B) Looking on the push-pull pot on the drawing, are the lug numbers 3,2,1 from left to right (in other words, shows the drawing the bottom of the pot)
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Post by JohnH on Oct 19, 2016 14:12:28 GMT -5
Hi Leon
The numbers on the drawing only relate to the table on the drawing, and probably don't exist marked on the switch itself. In that diagram, position 1 is for neck, and when you move the lever towards the neck, it connects to lugs nearest the bridge end of the switch which is where it is shown.
Wire it up as shown in terms of relative positions of lugs, but in theory, you can spin the superswitch 180 degrees before you start and it makes no difference.
The wiring is drawn as if looking from the back of the pickguard, ie the view you get while wiring it up. For clarity, the push pulls are drawn as if the switch is off to the side instead of on the back of the switch, but the lugs nearest the pot are the ones nearest the pot back in reality.
One more thing, I showed ground wires to the back of pots, as usual, but mots push/pull pots have a useful case lug above the switch, which is an easier and safer place to solder grounds to.
Good luck with the build
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leon1
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Post by leon1 on Oct 19, 2016 15:08:44 GMT -5
Hi Mark,
Just to be absolutely sure: Is the blue cable on the lug of the pod number 3 of number 1? In the same way one normally numbers a 'normal" pod.
I orderded the DiMarzio EP1201PP. Does it also have the case lug above the switch? I can't see it on photos.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 19, 2016 15:44:16 GMT -5
Sorry, im not understanding that question.
I looked at images of that switch and it does seem to have the ground lug on the top of the switch.
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leon1
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Post by leon1 on Oct 20, 2016 0:07:05 GMT -5
Sorry, im not understanding that question. I looked at images of that switch and it does seem to have the ground lug on the top of the switch. Hi John,
Then I think I know what you mean by ground lug. Can you respond to my question regarding the question: Is the blue cable on the lug of the pod number 3 of number 1? In the same way one normally numbers a 'normal" pod.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 20, 2016 0:22:09 GMT -5
Im just not understanding the wording of the question. Can anyone else follow it? I dont know what pod no. 3 of number 1 is, or how a normal pod is normally mumbered, or what a pod is anyway.?
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leon1
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Post by leon1 on Oct 20, 2016 2:57:38 GMT -5
Im just not understanding the wording of the question. Can anyone else follow it? I dont know what pod no. 3 of number 1 is, or how a normal pod is normally mumbered, or what a pod is anyway.? Mark,
Sorry for my poor english. I made a typing mistake. I mean the potentiometer. As in the picture example. I just want to make sure that I solder the cables to the corresponding lugs (terminals in the example). Does the blue wire in the picture correspond with lug number 1?
Attachments:
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Post by reTrEaD on Oct 20, 2016 11:27:57 GMT -5
Hello, Leon.
The terminal labeled "1" in the picture on the left corresponds to the far-right terminal in the drawing on the right. The one with the blue wire.
If we apply the numbering system in the picture to the drawing, it would be (from left to right) 3, 2, 1
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leon1
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Post by leon1 on Oct 20, 2016 12:21:42 GMT -5
Thanks, that rounds up my question.
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Post by leon1 on Oct 22, 2016 2:18:59 GMT -5
Hi Guys,
The ordered Little '59 SD has arrived. Am I correct assuming that the green and bare wire are soldered together as showing on the standard Seymour Duncan wiring diagram (with came with the '59).
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Post by reTrEaD on Oct 22, 2016 8:40:36 GMT -5
Hi Leon, In this case the green and bare are not soldered together. The green goes to the 5-way superswitch and the bare goes to ground. In the drawings John shows the potentiometers with solder puddles on the back of their cases. But you're likely to have a solder lug above the switch that you will use for your ground connections.
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