swapping the stock nut from my mightymite bass neck with a tusq nut
problem is the tusq nut is about 1/8 inch taller than the original nut
is there any quicker way than filing by hand?
Yes, there is an quicker way then hand sanding the nut down to the correct height.
I was going to type all this stuff out, but I found a very good link that details everything I'd tell you, and it has pictures:
[a href="
fingerlakesguitarrepair.com/pages/repair-descriptions/neck/nut/martin-new-bone-nut.php"]
fingerlakesguitarrepair.com/pages/repair-descriptions/neck/nut/martin-new-bone-nut.php[/a]
There are files specifically made for bass nuts. They cost a few coins, but they will handle the string gauges you mention. For a bass, the double edge files are your best bet:
However, we've covered this ground before. There is an alternative for DIY nut cutting:
DIY Nut files...These things really work. I was very surprised at how well they work. Combining individual gauges to make your slot size worked fine when I tried it. If I was still doing this for a living I'd drop the coin and buy the complete set of files, but for onesy twosy nut replacements they work fine.
One thing to remember is that you want the slot to be a few thousandths wider then your string gauge. Example as follows:
Your Strings Set: 45-65-85-105
Recommended Nut Slot Width: 48-68-88-108
Traditionally, you'll achieve these dimensions by rocking the file. This is a technique that requires a certain amount of practice, and the learning curve is steeper for some then others...
The beauty of the Feeler Gauge set is that you can stack these, put a piece of making tape over them to keep them from moving, and you can nail your exact slot dimension without rocking.
Then there's the debate about the shape of the bottom of the nut slot. What is more critical is the width, but I digress...
Conventional wisdom dictates a half round bottom to a nut slot. This works fine and I have no problem with it. A Vee shape is not a good idea, so we'll all just agree and move on.
However, the flat bottom nut slot seems to get some undeserved bad press, IMHO. For a trem-leo guitar they actually reduce the amount of surface area the string must encounter while being whammied, so your tuning will remain more stable then a conventional half-round slot bottom.
This is not really a factor in a bass, but as long as your width is correct, not too tight or too sloppy, the square bottom nut slot is perfectly acceptable.
Another key point that gets missed on DIY nut installers is the angle of the slot cut. You want a small ledge at the front edge of the nut, but you want the bulk of the slot to angle backwards towards the tuners. So, avoid the knife edge on the front of the slot, but don't wait too long to start angling the slot downwards towards the headstock.
Finally, you want an inverted horn type flare cut at the back of the nut. You don't want a sharp edge at the back of the nut, so getting a radius downwards at the back of the nut will allow the string to exit the nut cleanly and make a clean break-over as it heads off towards the tuners.
As far as depth, this will depend largely on your playing style, but if you fret the first fret on a given string, then use a feeler gauge to measure the gap over the second fret, this will get you close to the clearance you need with the string open from the nut to the first fret.
Please feel free to ask me to elaborate on anything I may have glossed over here. Nut cutting is easy, if you know how. It's an exercise in buying new nut if you're trying to work quick.
Happy Trails
Cynical One