HH 9 sounds 1pp - sanity check please!

[elderik]

I built this in my old Jackson with two HB, a 5-way super switch and a PP volume. Haven't added the tone options yet as there seems to be a flaw in the phase of a couple of the switch positions(3 and 4). I thought I had this figured out, spent weeks drawing this, but I'm about to chuck it and use something simpler from the Dimarzio boards - can anyone review the polarity / phasing of this diagram please?

Updated diagram below:

[newey]

elderik-

Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2!

I checked your wire colors and diagram and it all looks good to me. But I could be wrong, so we should probably get a second on this.

But it is also possible that Jackson's definition of "north" differs from that of DM. You probably need to do the "screwdriver pull-off test" to be sure. This test requires the use of an analog multimeter, or use of a PC with soundcard and recording software.

[JohnH]

I just had a look at position 3, but saw nothing obvious. the test linked by newey is a good way to check. Once you have it going, run it for each coil in each setting and youll soon see whether you have the coils connected as you expect, and if there are definate phase issues.

One thing to note, when you use a screwdriver to tap the pole of a humbucker, you may get a small signal even from a disconnected coil, due to magnetic coupling.

John

[elderik]

Thanks for the quick response guys.

How about if I just replace the Jackson with a DM Steve Special?
- I already bought one as the J90C is not a good match output wise -
the EVO is noticeably louder than the Jackson.

I got the Jackson pup in a small town pawn shop for $20, so I am not sure that the labeling was correct (the J90C is supposed to be Jackson's hottest pup ever). My ohm meter seem to indicate a good match, but not so.

So given two DM pups both oriented the same way - you still see no issues?
Or should I flip one around to make the colors reversed? Diagram updated:



Thanks from Texas

[newey]

Using 2 pups from the same manufacturer ought to eliminate any OOP issues, you shouldn't need to wire it "backwards".

As far as your diagram is concerned, I see a couple of issues. These may not actually be issues, but may just be a problem with how we designate things.

As a matter of convention here (and elsewhere) we use "+" to mean a parallel connection, and " * " (or, "X") to mean a series connection. So, for example, at pos. 3 with the P/P up, you wrote: "BN & (NS+NN)". We would call that "BN + (NS * NN)", or perhaps "BN + Neck HB", meaning " Neck South coil in series with the Neck North Coil, all in parallel with the Bridge North Coil"

Actually, what you have at Position 3 (P/P up) is (BN * NN) + (BN * NS). Not an issue, it just may not be what you intended.

At Position 1 (P/P up), though, there is an issue. Rather than having "BN & (BS + NN), you actually have (BN * BS) + (NN * BN), but the NN is also grounded through the BS coil. I'm not sure exactly what you'll get at that position as a result, I think you get just BN but I'm not sure.

[elderik]

Actually, what you have at Position 3 (P/P up) is (BN * NN) + (BN * NS). Not an issue, it just may not be what you intended.

I am seeing:
P3 (PP up) = BN * (NS + NN) - correct? same thing I guess

At Position 1 (P/P up), though, there is an issue... the NN is also grounded through the BS coil.

Are you sure?
P1 (PP up) - I cannot find the issue with P1/up. I see BN * (BS + NN)
I redrew one line for clarity on the parallel split in purple:

BTW I dropped in the new pup last night - it sounds great and all positions seem to work with no hum - much thanks ! ! !

Now the question is what to do with the 2 open holes - I decided for a high gain rock/metal axe that tone controls are just wasted load.
I am thinking a kill switch and I'm not sure what else...

[roadtonever]

Easy, producer knob.

Hasn't the bridge string ground combo been superseded by a .33uF cap?

EDIT: Sorry, I should have said 0.1uf 450V cap in this case where the string ground is isolated.

[newey]

eldererik-

Well, if you wired it and it works to your satisfaction, then it really doesn't matter. But I think I'm right about the combos being a bit different than your list. That's not to say that the sound is necessarily any different, the combos are going to be very similar either way.

But, let's look at position 3 with the P/P up. Start to trace the signal chain from the ground on the NS Start. From there signal goes through the neck S coil, out the NS finish to the upper-right commons on the switch. At Pos 3, this then is connected to the orange wire, going to the upper left pole 3 lug, and then to the BN finish, then through the bridge N coil and out the BN start, which connects to output through the lower right pole on the switch.

So we have a complete series circuit from NS through the BN, which gives us (NS * BN).

Now, let's look at the NN coil. It's "finish" is connected to ground at the P/P switch with it "up" (parallel). So, start the signal chain from there. Through the NN coil to the orange wire, and to the blue wire to the switch. From the blue wire on the upper right pole, it connects at position 3 to the BN finish on the upper left pole. So we get NN * BN.

Since both these combos are connected in parallel to the output, in toto we get (NS * BN) + (NN * BN).

The NN coil is however also grounded through the BS coil, via the orange wire from the P/P, through the green wire, to the BS coil. This apparently doesn't matter much.

[elderik]

Aug 28, 2011 17:43:04 GMT -5 roadtonever said:

Easy, producer knob.

What's a Producer knob? I want no batteries btw

Hasn't the bridge string ground combo been superseded by a .33uF cap?

EDIT: Sorry, I should have said 0.1uf 450V cap in this case where the string ground is isolated.

I'm not totally sure on the bridge grounding - I have not installed that part - I only have the one cap on the Volume which does seem to taper the tone better.

[roadtonever]

A producer knob is'nt connected to anything (except maybe ground) has no function other than providing visual stimulus for the producer or band mate who asks you to adjust your sound. It's very effective IME. Or add a tone knob, whatever you think is more useful. The string ground cap is optional, it reduces shock in case of electrical failure - a potential lifesaver.

EDIT: I have been in error again, the 0.1uF cap is for a scenario where the isolation cap is between bridge ground and shield ground. I think the .001uF/220k combo works better in the scenario depicted.