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Post by geo on Nov 21, 2011 5:26:01 GMT -5
So I got this kit a while back and I haven't had a chance to install it, but I took a glance at the wiring diagram and it's got me a little confused. Can anyone tell what the hell they're doing with the tone-end of the switch? www.guitarcenter.com/Fender-Pre-Amp-Mid-Boost-Kit-25-DB-102019098-i1384771.gc?esid=midboost+kitI just automatically assumed there'd be two leads you put a pot between to control the midboost, two leads for V+/ground, and two leads for signal, but after staring at this for a couple hours I'm pretty puzzled. It looks like the last two leads (6,7) are for tweaking the amount of midboost by connecting (what I'm assuming are) outputs for the regular signal and the mid-boosted signal and mixing them together through a pot, then pushing that to the volume pot as well to control total volume. If someone with a brain for electronics could hash this out for me a little more intuitively I'd greatly appreciate it. -Geo EDIT: This isn't exactly the diagram that came with mine, and it's actually elucidated the tone-end of the Fender switch a little bit, looks like they've introduced the tone to the regular signal chain and just jumped all of the tone connections. Why do these have to be jumped? (It seems to be the same circuit-wise, just without extra lines put in there to confuse people, and with fewer unexplained numbers.)
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Post by asmith on Nov 22, 2011 5:27:25 GMT -5
Can anyone tell what the hell they're doing with the tone-end of the switch? They're doing nothing with it. You don't need to. I mocked up this diagram of the controls. It might prompt some "clicking:" The selector switch's only function in the circuit is to select which pickup you're hearing. Then you go through the high-cut tone control, which uses a dual-gang pot. Then you hit the active Mid-Boost, which'll work work it's mojo, then the volume control. Then the mid-boost control, which fades between "clean" and "mid-boosted" signal, then out. Does that clear anything up?
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Post by geo on Nov 22, 2011 6:54:38 GMT -5
Shouldn't the volume only cut the signal coming from the brown wire from the midboost, since you've got some length of the midboost volume control's resistor between the output and the ground?
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Post by asmith on Nov 22, 2011 8:10:15 GMT -5
I'm not sure what you're asking. The mid-boost resistor isn't connected to ground - which is represented by the bottom line of the diagram. What I think is happening here is - and this is a harzarded guess: - Signal goes in Yellow wire.
- Clapton 'copies' the signal, let's call it "B-Signal," and boosts the mids by a finite amount.
- Clean signal exits Green wire.
- Clean signal heads through volume control, goes back in Brown wire.
- Clapton compares the volume level between Yellow and Brown wire.
- Clapton adjusts the volume of "B-Signal" accordingly.
- Clapton outputs the boosted, vol-adjusted signal out the Violet wire.
That way all the mid control is doing is fading the output between an adjusted boost-signal, and a clean signal. I would guess that the design works that way because the circuitry is actually providing a geniune 'boost,' i.e. adding signal strength. In turn, it makes it simpler to keep the volume pot attached to a signal strength that you know is going to go through it, instead of having to play with pot values for adjusted signals. Hope that helps.
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Post by geo on Nov 22, 2011 14:19:44 GMT -5
Ah, gotcha. Seems kinda silly that it'd have to match the volume at the end, that was pretty counter-intuitive and really screwed me up trying to figure this puppy out.
(Not to mention it's going to have to subtract the B-signal passing through the resistance between brown & violet when it calculates how much volume to send out that way. Seems like a real headache to do it that way.)
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Post by ashcatlt on Nov 23, 2011 6:37:22 GMT -5
Don't honestly believe that's what's going on. More likely the output of the 5-way is buffered before going on to the pots. The signal is split at the one end of the blend pot, then the EQ thing is applied and pumped into the other end.
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Post by geo on Nov 28, 2011 15:35:18 GMT -5
Kit comes with a 250K and a 50K pot. I'm assuming the 250K is for volume and the 50k is to regulate the midboost?
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Post by asmith on Nov 28, 2011 16:04:00 GMT -5
Actually, I'd say that's more likely to uphold Ash's statement, that the signal post-tone-control is buffered. I would imagine the 50k pot is the volume, and the 250k pot is the blender.
If you wanted to use the TBX controls with this scheme, they would go where the current tone control is.
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Post by geo on Nov 28, 2011 16:18:54 GMT -5
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Post by newey on Nov 28, 2011 23:58:16 GMT -5
Here's wikipedia's take on it, for what it's worth. In the context of guitar circuitry, buffering is usually used to take the guitar's output impedance from instrument-level signal to a line (or audio) level signal input. I know, clear as mud, right?
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Post by sumgai on Nov 30, 2011 22:32:53 GMT -5
Here's wikipedia's take on it......
...... clear as mud, right? Was to me. Believe it or don't, some of us Engineer types actually do use Thevenin's and Norton's Theorems much more often than might appear necessary. They really do cut down on the time spent analyzing things, once you get the hang of it. HTH sumgai
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Post by geo on Sept 14, 2012 0:34:06 GMT -5
So here's the deal: I've got the switches in place, but I apparently can't measure as well as I thought I could, 'cause there's no place below my two 5-way switches for the mid-boost kit.
I have two options: (1) Route a compartment like on the Clapton Strat (2) Block the tremolo and sneak it in the back compartment.
I rarely use the tremolo, but it's nice to have the option. I guess what I do depends on:
How much worse will (1) it sound versus how much better (2) will make it sound.
Feedback?
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Post by newey on Sept 14, 2012 6:12:40 GMT -5
Two 5-way switches? I think this is the first you've mentioned that. I can see where that would cause fitment problems for any added bits.
I don't think the slight loss of wood will have a deleterious effect on the tone. I've never heard anyone complain about that on the Clapton Strat.
The decision, in my way of thinking, should instead center on whether the guitar would lose value if not able to be converted back to "stock"- in other words, does it have any vintage value? And then, your use of the trem. And also, your comfort level with applying a router to your guitar!
Before you do any routing, I'd suggest a "test fit" with the trem block idea, you can at least see if that's a realistic option. You shouldn't need to actually block the trem permanently to be sure it will fit.
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Post by geo on Oct 25, 2012 20:19:44 GMT -5
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