korus
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
|
Post by korus on Dec 19, 2011 18:06:15 GMT -5
You get the idea – fixed value resistor R with additional tone cap C1 used to simulate tone pot/cap from 50’s wiring while tone pots and their regular tone caps C2 are wired the modern way. The trick is how to set values for those R, C1 and C2 for optimal results. Let us presume default values for stock parts are used : pots are both 500k (volume and tone) and C2s are 22nF. The options are, as I see it: (A) NO-LOAD tone pots : use R=500k and C1=10nF – this keeps load ~ 250k, and 32nF is not too much compared to stock 22nF (B) REGULAR tone pots : use R=2000k=2Mohm and C1=10nF - this keeps total load ~ 222k which is only ~27k or ~ 12% less than default 250k I’ve tested (B) or should I say I’ve been using it for a week or so now. It is less bright then stock 250k load, but not dramatically. It is exactly like having a regular wiring (either one of those 2) of 500k volume and 400k tone pot, so you can imagine how noticeable it is. The most important thing is - volume pots work the same way as with regular 50’s wiring throughout the whole range and tone pots work as regular modern wiring throughout the whole range. So, is this a final answer to that ancient “50’s or modern” dilemma? It is for me as it does indeed have PROS of both while the well known CONS of both are covered by the other one of them. Until I get some 500k no-load CTS pots I might use nail polish trick on some cheap regular ones just to check if (A) is so much better (B) that is worth additional cost and effort. Whatever happens to be the final conclusion I am rather positive that (B) is easier and cheaper to implement without any significant loss on the performance and therefore might be more usable for most who are willing to try this option. If the additional cost and effort is worth making/spending or not I will know for sure once I get those no-load pots and make another real life test. Any thoughts/comments? Anyone for Spice simulation ... please? And should I name it "korus wiring" or just a "korus mod"? (lol) (note : It is very unlikely that this is the first time anyone mixed these 2 in the same wiring, but OTOH I have not seen this idea implemented yet. If you have, please point it out where so I can compare ... Thank you, I hope my English was fine.)
|
|
|
Post by newey on Dec 19, 2011 21:15:46 GMT -5
korus-
Welcome back! It's been a while.
Your English is fine. As to the scheme, and simulating it with 5spice, I'll leave that to others as I don't know that I'm qualified to judge it.
But, your diagram makes it appear as if the hot leads from the pickups are grounded to the pot shells before being wired to the pots, and I don't think that's what you intended.
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Dec 19, 2011 23:21:59 GMT -5
imho, there isn't any advantage associated with the 50's wiring. Putting a resistor and cap in series and placing them between the wiper and ground seems like it would make things worse. It's kind of like having the reverse of a treble bleed circuit. Idk, maybe I'm looking at it wrong.
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Dec 20, 2011 0:47:41 GMT -5
Im not a fan of 50's wiring, but I sometimes call into the LP forum and it consistently gets rave recomendations, from people who have spent much more on their guitar than I have and are therefore to be respected. I no longer dimiss it!
But the thing is, other than stating how awesome it seems to be once they have converted to it, I have never seen or heard a good apples to apples audio A/B comparison between modern and 50's wiring.
Enter korus! with your scheme you could resolve this in the name of science, and maybe we learn something cool too.
|
|
|
Post by sumgai on Dec 20, 2011 2:44:37 GMT -5
newey, But, your diagram makes it appear as if the hot leads from the pickups are grounded to the pot shells before being wired to the pots, and I don't think that's what you intended. That's an oversimplifed depiction of the braid (from the pup's shielded cable) being soldered to the pot's shell, and the center wire continuing on to the terminal.
korus, Good job! Now, howzabout some sound clips, please? ;D sumgai
|
|
|
Post by reTrEaD on Dec 20, 2011 10:59:04 GMT -5
Im not a fan of 50's wiring, but I sometimes call into the LP forum and it consistently gets rave recomendations, from people who have spent much more on their guitar than I have and are therefore to be respected. I no longer dimiss it! Re-reading my previous post, it does seem a bit dismissive. I apologize to korvus if it comes off that way. But the thing is, other than stating how awesome it seems to be once they have converted to it, I have never seen or heard a good apples to apples audio A/B comparison between modern and 50's wiring. Enter korus! with your scheme you could resolve this in the name of science, and maybe we learn something cool too. Hmmm. Science is good. Even without samples, I think adding a minitoggle or push-pull switch to the resistor/capacitor network would be a good idea. That way korus could compare the sound, with and without the modification.
|
|