Need A wiring drawing & Expertise. HSH set-up

[candyflipper7]

Hi everyone,
I recently had a thread about HHH with toggles. Well the plan has changed for now, and I have decided to upgrade my Old guitar "Hannah". I had to put my other Big project on the back burner "Guitar Fetish" informed me that the bodies I ordered were sold out until further notice... So I will just upgrade something I have been meaning to do for a while now.

I have a super thin bodied guitar, which is an HSH setup. I have decided to change out all of the electronics and wiring, because the ones inside now are pretty cheap. To say the least. I bought this guitar off of e bay, and it wasn't all that was expected. I would like to upgrade this guitar with these options, and electronics:

Replace with new:

500k Volume Pot (with treble bleed kit)
500k Tone pot (with .022 cap or .015 cap)

New 5 way switch

New Wires

Add: mini toggle for OOP Neck "OR" P/P if it will fit for Tone control and OOP, if possible.

1 Single Lipstick Pickup for the middle ( Only has 2 wires Hot, and ground)

2 Humbuckers

10k for the Neck
14k for the bridge (From Guitar fetish - 4 wire with same wiring as Seymour Duncan)

Would like to use a mini toggle or Push/Pull for Neck in/OOP

This is a super thin body so I'm not sure if a P/P will fit length wise.

Options I would like are

1. North Coil Neck - South Coil Bridge

2. South Coil Neck - North Coil Bridge

3. North Coil Neck - Middle Lipstick(Single) - South Coil Bridge

4. South Coil Neck - Middle - North Coil Bridge

5. Full Neck and Bridge

If anyone could draw this up for me I would be grateful.
Thanks in Advance for any help or suggestions. I'm sure this is pretty simple for the Pro's out there. I have been doing some research on this and just not getting the info or drawings I expected. If someone knows of any info on this site(here) I can look at it would hel out also. Thanks MB.

[newey]

It will probably be a couple of days before I can do a diagram for you.

You will need to have a Superswitch to do this wiring (4P5T). In addition to measuring carefully for a P/P pot to fit the shallow cavity depth, you should do likewise with a Superswitch, since if it won't fit, you'll need to seriously rethink your wiring preferences.

[candyflipper7]

Thanks newey. Sounds awesome. I will get the specs of the Super switch from Guitar Electronics. And do a Cavity Depth reading with a pair of calipers. Appreciate the help once again.

[candyflipper7]

Did some homework and took off the cavity plate. Good news and bad news. Good news is I have plenty of clearance for P/P (enough space for height and width). Enough space in between the 2 pots for on/on/on switch "or" on/off/on. Bad news is the Super switch will not clear the cavity cover plate. Any suggestions? Any different kind of 5 way 4 pole switches that aren't so (Large?) for what I would like to do. If not I can live with auto splitting of some sort but would still like that option of the In/Out Of Phase. I love that sound for some reason. I already have the 2 500k P/P, I had already had them for the HHH project . Not to sure on my options anymore. Willing to go for auto split. Just would really really like OOP option since I am putting in somewhat better pickups and new wiring. Ohhhh, and would like to keep the treble bleed and .015, "or" .022 caps.

[newey]

There is the Schaller Megaswitch™ M; this is smaller than the Superswitch. Note that there are several different models of the Megaswitch, only the M model is a 4P5T.

The same switches are also available from EYB. StewMac sells 'em as well as several other online parts retailers.

They also make a "stacked" version with 8 poles!

[candyflipper7]

Thanks for the info newey. I will check it out. Will come back to let you know if it fits! The Super switch wouldhave come out to far a little over 7/16 of an inch. The P/P will be a very nice fit as the current pots are the same diameter as the 500k P/P. I am hoping to away with using one 500k P/P if needed or 2 seymore duncan 500k pots and no P/P. I will leave the details to you since you have a working knowledge of this stuff. I have learned so much from you and the forum. TY. Will get back to the forum to let you know if the Mega is a go. ( Yes this will fit.) Can you do it up for me? If so would be great to see what you come up with. Looking forward to upgrading since I can't go forward with my HHH project just yet. The 2 Humbuckers have the Seymour wire set up by the way.

[candyflipper7]

omg...These things are hard o find. The only one I found so far is in Great Britain. Will keep looking. Tried Stew Mac & guitar Electronics and so on. No Go ~ This is the one I am going with. If anyone has seen these things (Megaswitch "M") please point me n the right direction.

[4real]

I did a quick search for them with little luck...it matters not where in the world something is as long as they have it and supply it.

I used a super-switch in my squier back routed strat and it was certainly 'tight'...in fact most likely to the level of the surface and back plate had to bend, certainly touches and the shielding protected by tape and teh connection poiints (whihc are fragile btw so take care with heat and such) bent over as required...





You can see in this guitar it is a tight fit depth wise and some compromise to do it. The guitar is thinner than a standard fender and without a top scratchplate so less the top thickness and inset back plate so less the thickness there too.

So, potentially it is possible...depending on your guitar. This guitar also has 3 PP pots...see the gallery here... guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=music&action=display&thread=5413 and in particular the pics of soldering on a cardboard template...you DO NOT want to do something like this inside the cavity...check things fit, solder on a template, install the whole thing only when tested and all works!

The M switch does seem hard to find from a quick search, see if you can find out who the local distributor for schaller is..here...

schaller-electronic.com/hp811/North-America.htm

Ring them, even though they can't sell to you, they generally will answer questions of supply or where a store that sells them might be or could order on your behalf.

There could be a problem with supply, they can find out. Sometimes these things run out of production and companies keep their options open to whether they will commit to a new order batch and wear the cost and stock for a slow moving thing....perhaps they could look into this possibility too.

[newey]

This German website has them, but they're not cheap!

www.thomann.de/gb/eyb_megaswitch_version_m.htm

[4real]

Oct 29, 2012 21:16:03 GMT -5 newey said:

This German website has them, but they're not cheap!

www.thomann.de/gb/eyb_megaswitch_version_m.htm

I disagree....16.30euro is 20-22 dollars in either USA or AUD dollars...

A real super switch is $22 also, so on par (though I think a stronger better switch than the PCB kind from teh looks of it an experience)...that's from stew mac, who will kill us out here at least, with huge post...smae with GFS and many american suppliers (most often i get things post free from china and such...go figure)

The days of a strong US dollar and so 'cheap' prices of overseas parts I suspect are gone, but it's much what everyone else has always had to pay. But, I don't think this is unreasonable and when I last got one and the US$ high, I know I paid more than $30 for mine, might have been hedging $40 plus post from the states!

...

Still, not unreasonable and I think that if you want to do this kind of complicated scheme, you need this kind of switch to make it happen.

Definitely not something you will want to do inside a cavity though, this is not going to be an easy thing to do so be prepared as it will work out much better if done on a template and take time and be systematic and with a good drawing and test it all before installation.

....

I'm curious about why you want this particular scheme, are you really 'sure' of what this thing might sound like or your needs in this regard...it seems a little 'odd' if you don't mind me saying. If it were me, I'd be wanting to hear this selection before commiting to them, perhaps by wiring the selections direct to a jack in the guitar or something?!

[candyflipper7]

Thanks for replying guys. Yeah 16,30 euro is about where I am with this after researching, and searching for this switch. I will also go to the site newey directed me to as well. I do agree that after looking at the Superswitch this is comparable in price as Stew Mac is kinda pricey from my dealings with them. I know that set-up does sound odd 4real, and is not very say " practical".

My buddy had this set-up before, and yes it is unusual to say the least, but produces a unique set of sounds. I am going to take some pictures of the guitar's cavity and post them they you guys can see just how shallow it is.

Newey... Do you have any suggestions? 4real., I am very interested in your input also as I see you have expertise in the art of "Mod". I am thinking (newey) that Since this switch is so hard to find (But not Impossible. Would it be ok for you just to draw me up something with regular wiring pretty much with:


1 regular 5 way (Since I look like I am going to be limited)
2 push/pulls (They are the same diameter as my pots installed now. I bought some 500k Seymour Duncan pots originally for this, but the Seymour's are a lot bigger in diameter)

1 for volume and 1 for tone that can possibly split each humbucker?

1 treble bleed and one tone cap.

1 toggle to switch in/out op on the neck.

Using 2 Humbuckers with Seymour wiring, and one single coil with just 2 wires.

About now I am just going to go with a suggestion of what will work out with that electronic hardware. I am pretty happy with "regular" auto-split. Just would love to have in/oop option.

Not sure if I can do this (Post these pics). I bought this guitar for how thin it was. The sustain is really nice. The neck is fast also. Just junk inside. Has so much potential it's crazy!






If posting the link pictures are a "no,no" I apologize.

Lol, newey, that was the site I went to last night. That's the only place who had the switch. Crazy......

[candyflipper7]

I was looking through some post from june and came across this:

Jun 15, 2012 8:02:27 GMT -5 kman42 said:

That idea for the Neck pup switch is a pretty good one, I think I'll try that. As for the dual gang tone pot, I don't really use the tone enough to justify the mod I think. In addition to the Series/parallel switch, when I open it up there are a few other things I'll add:

- a treble bleed on the master volume - not sure about the middle volume but possibly a treble bleed on there too.

- positions 2 and 4 aren't hum cancelling. Although the guitar's amazingly quiet (full copper shielding and the pups are all individually shielded) it still makes alot of noise in high gain situations. I've heard that you can fix it with the following diagram:

so I'll do some experimenting.

- I'll try the neck bypass switch like you suggested.

- I want to change the middle volume to a linear pot for smoother blending.

Hopefully after those mods, this guitar will be approaching perfection!

This is what I believe I am limited to with the shallow cavity. How do I do this and add in/oop?

LOL, decided to keep it some what simple. (Just looking at the diagram(Not original members comments)

[4real]

My buddy had this set-up before, and yes it is unusual to say the least, but produces a unique set of sounds. I am going to take some pictures of the guitar's cavity and post them they you guys can see just how shallow it is.

Do you have any suggestions? 4real.

I take it we are looking at this ebay guitar...

www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Electric-GUITAR-Contour-body-humbucker-PU-NEW-/270863829427

So a $100 new guitar, you'd ahve to question some quality and in the parts, but how much money are you prepared to sink into this kind of thing, a super switch is a third of the total value...know what I mean?

You can't post dynamic images which is why we could not see it that way. Do you own the guitar or looking for it for this project? Actual pictures inside the control cavity is perhaps of more interest, so get the camera out, edit to a reasonable size and open a photobucket account so you can link to the forum from there...I think there is an instruction thread on this kind of thing, most forums are similar.

So, yes a very cheap guitar there LOL and so any 'expense' in switches and stuff will be a good percentage of the entire project...I'm surprised they can get a trem block in there and work effectively, it must be very short and the cavity for springs virtually go right through to the pup cavities!

...

GN2 is a place to attempt to make what you want possible of course, so if this scheme is exactly what you want, before people put a lot of time nutting it out...I can kind of see where it is coming from to maximise humcancelling.

Personally, I try and see things the other way around and consider the many wiring options offered here and the benefits and such. Generally to look at how user friendly it's going to be for the end result. There are far better people than I to draw diagrams and work out the logic to make that happen. Generally there are so many schemes that come close, I start or use those ;-)

SO, there are all kinds of 'questions' there about expectations and what one wants to achieve, kind of music, quality and sound of these pups and how well they 'split', how the guitar is to be used and how fussy you are and priorities...and costs...and of course...have you done this kind of thing before as complicated schemes take time (so need patience) and dilligence and likely trouble shooting skills, especially if it is a 'new/untested' scheme where errors can slip through till someone builds and so verifies it as correct...

It sounds as if you can get P-P pots in there, so there is two dpdt switches to add if you don't want to drill the guitar...don't know cavity size to know how tight it would be to locate such things.

For me, and imagining what I might play on such a guitar, if it could be set up for that kind of thing given it is a cheap guitar. I'd tend to favour the full neck and bridge pups on the extremes of the 5 way, as usual. I particularly like combinations and regard the middle pup, which is not noise cancelling to be not so effective on it's own, as a kind of tone shaping device to 'hollow out' the sound strat style. So, be looking at the three middle selections as lighter 'rhythm' sounds perhaps.

You have a lot of coils there, effecitively 5 pups...hmmm

On a scheme like on my strat, the vol PP selects the 'mode' much like an S1 on new strats, so there is the usual parallel mode and a series mode that also includes all pups on in series or parallel at the extremes. So, the 5 way now becomes ten way in effect, an extra five wiith the push pull.

I also use OoP or HOoP switches in my Tone. You also ahve an option to have a tone/split perhaps on the dial so freeing up that PP for such a use. I tend to OoP the neck pup. This can be a good effect especitailly if you have very dark selections, such as on series selections.

How importnt noise cancelling is for you to prioritise, to me it is important, but I use noisecancelling stacked single coils and shielded cable as much as possible to make things very quiet.

So, not sure, I usually sit on projects for months to years LOL. My inclination is to see if one can find a scheme that will give you a 'mode' switch to double you selections to get some more unusal things perhaps...or to perhaps split things (if the these pups sound any good split) to have an HB mode and more 'strat' like mode.

ok...so thinking as I type...

OoP or HOoP in the tone for the neck pup. Full HB in 1 & 5 and perhaps both in the middle...starting to sound kind of 'normal' does it not...and then combinations of neck or bridge and the middle pup.

Pull the volume and perhaps get the HB split on the neck say, with various combos (hopefully noiseless combos) of N+M, N+M+B, N+B, NxMxB, all coils on perhaps (loud but very dark)...use the OoP to alter these sounds...anytime you have the neck in combo, you will get two sounds with the phase so that will dramatically increase your variety...hence thinking so much '"N" in my choices!

How possible that is, hard to say. Perhaps one might think, well a standard selector is more economical and swee what one can do with just that and the switches.

Another way if you have room for and don't mind some mini toggles might be to have them for each pup, this can be an intuitive kind of scheme, visal and might save using PP. One of my early gutiars for instance had three phase switches, one for each pup (one more than necessary but you could see and 'feel' them that way and filled the selector slot) and on that guitar, the Mid pup OoP actually had the opposite effect of a strat, a mid boost of sorts! I also use a middle pot (though you could use a PP or switch to just turn it on) for the middle pup, regardless of the selector which was a three way like a gibson on my guitar).

So, just off the top of my head (I type as fast as I talk, so you know, no editing or deep thought here) and as I say, for me I think things through over some time and see what is available that comes at least close or good enough, likely better, from what is already been tested LOL!

Being a cheap guitar I don't know what it is 'up to' but it clearly looks like some kind of shreading machine so with that in mind, if I played like that, I might be thinking light strings, low action, high gain...etc.

With a guitar like that much of the subtlties of wiring options may well be lost and I'd want something that is sleek and unfussy in use. Being cheap, unless used as a kind of mule to test ideas (a bit thin for that I suspect), I'd be perhaps being more concerned about sinking money into it, not sure how well it can be set up, perhaps suspect basswood (if heavy, might well be MDF!) or something given those curves and a very insubstantial body, especially around the neck joint! The pups are not likely to be remarkable but if overwound, could surprise with some nice 'splits' but if the guitar does not have a good clean 'ring' and played with a lot of 'distortion' or the like, would likely make a lot of the kinds of things one might be able to achieve a little 'redundant' in many way and just make it more 'fussy'.

But these are my thought, the important thing is your thoughts and abilities and what is important to you. There is certainly a lot of splits and phase and other options that are possible...if you can fit it in the gutiar.

Oh, before wiring, I look into making the thing play as well as I can get it given what it is, wiring is just icing, often this is not a matter of 'cost' but doing a bit of the tedious 'work' to get the best out of it.

[pete12345]

I doubt you'll be able to detect much difference between the Nsouth+Bnorth and Nnorth+Bsouth combinations, or those including the middle pickup. Instead, I'd go for both parallel and series combinations of the pickups which will add more variety.

[candyflipper7]

Yeah it is a cheapy . But it is very comfortable, and plays well. Just really, seriously needs some better electronics. I would rather use this as a mod piece than one of my more "expensive guitars". When I bought this I wasn't expecting much to be honest. But it really feels nice when I play it so it was a keeper. I've had it about a year sitting in the closet. Played it now, and again and just love the feel of it.... I usually play my 2003 Mockingbird, I also have a Jackson from the 80's(Jackson Charvel Model 6) from when I was in high school. Never really messed around on the inside of a guitar - but lay paint like a beast when I customize bodies from G fetish. So yeah, this is a project I am looking forward to. New Paint, New Neck And New Guts.

4Real....Yeah I hear you about the thoughts you have on the topic.

"Noise cancelling" pretty important to start out with. This is pretty much a practice guitar to get to know more about wiring and the works inside. Just wanted more variations and better sound. Something to experiment with. Anything from classic rock & surf, Punk is the style I like, more of a fusion kind of sound if that makes any sense. As you all know finding our own sound is what most guitarist are after, correct? I really don't try to play like Hendrix, Page (For example) or, emulate anyone in particular. I mix, and match styles, experiment for a melodic sound with a bit of screaming bends here and there. (Looking for something where the Pups can be split with a toggle or so, to achieve that sound. That's why the Noop/Oop is so important, those strange combos I wanted, kind of give those quirky sounds. I am game for anything that will fit inside of the cavity and give me at least 75 percent of those combos or anything close. ) If I can get a diagram that works that will be the choice I would put into a better body if that makes sense.

So yeah... a 100 dollar cheap guitar, Many possibilities. I will put around $150 in it maybe go $200 for good parts. I feel if I'm going to do a project put the best in right? Besides, it will give me a platform to learn about wiring and have a chance to put something together for that signature sound

Reading your replies, pete12345's reply & neweys replies has got me to thinking about a lot of things. Even the options of toggles, toggles & toggles. After looking at this thing I'm sure you see what I mean about it being super thin. Had to laugh when you said the comment about the trem block! It's not that bad but pretty close.(LOL)

I do agree about Noop /Oop on the neck- Only makes sense.

I'm really diggin this here 4Real!

OoP or HOoP in the tone for the neck pup. Full HB in 1 & 5 and perhaps both in the middle...starting to sound kind of 'normal' does it not...and then combinations of neck or bridge and the middle pup.

Pull the volume and perhaps get the HB split on the neck say, with various combos (hopefully noiseless combos) of N+M, N+M+B, N+B, NxMxB, all coils on perhaps (loud but very dark)...use the OoP to alter these sounds...anytime you have the neck in combo, you will get two sounds with the phase so that will dramatically increase your variety...hence thinking so much '"N" in my choices!

How possible that is, hard to say. Perhaps one might think, well a standard selector is more economical and swee what one can do with just that and the switches.

And, I also agree with this Pete12345 100 percent.

I doubt you'll be able to detect much difference between the Nsouth+Bnorth and Nnorth+Bsouth combinations, or those including the middle pickup. Instead, I'd go for both parallel and series combinations of the pickups which will add more variety.

to answer a few more questions
The Guitar is very light. Is Basswood.

Neck fits very snug - measures in at 56mm so can switch the neck out. This one is pretty comfortable. Fast.

No distortion in tone but get some crackle from the tone knob like it's bad wiring.

Sound is clean in tone.

Had a good set up at my local Music Shop.

So I figured it was worth throwing it into project status.
Actually this was secondary when it came to a project. I had ordered 2 bodies from G Fetish(HHH Project Originally). Turns out they had sold the 2 bodies, and I ended up with a credit. I just bought some "Over wound" Pickups and some hardware. Already had most of the other stuff that I had purchased for those bodies. NOS caps, P/P's, Pots, all that good stuff.

Now I Just really need to decide on switches (Maybe the regular 5 way) I would love the Megaswitch "M" newey mentioned as I would have some more options. The diagram above will probably be my best bet tweaked a bit. It's pretty much more about that Lipstick Pickup. That tone is what is giving me what I want in between the 2
"Overwound" HB's.


P.S. Thanks for the advice on the pics! I thought that was what happened. New to forums, had to join GN2 had been here reading a lot of stuff over the past weeks. Folks here really know their way around guitars inside and out. Was the only site really with some "Real Knowledge"

[4real]

Well, it's a cool looking guitar and if it plays ok, sure, why not.

My HSS strat is in the gallery here, I think there is a sound clip too. It uses the Mike richardson scheme with a few alterations. It uses a master vol and tone, the middle pot is for splitting the HB. The volume is the 'mode switch' to more series sounds, the tone has a HOoP switch.

My tele has a pahse switch in the vol control PP and there is a sound clip there that demos that kind of thing.

There is a heap of good ideas, in the gallery, and it the wiring reference section.

There is only so much one can achieve with wiring though, you can get variety but not all is going to be great. A guitar that has a few really good selections without having ones that get in the way is something to aspire to.

For me and my strat, I particularly wanted to have the N+B option which I use a lot. I also wanted to 'fix' the volume/tone jump in the HSS configuration...hence the variable split control thing I came up with fo the bridge HB. The SD JB pup is particularly good for splitting as well. All pups other than the 'splits' are noise cancelling though on my guitar, so while noisecancelling matters a lot to me, I did not need to worry about that so much in the combining of pups to optimise that side of things.

But yeah, it looks like a fun guitar and sometimes these things can surprise...keep the aspirations and expected results realistic and avoids 'shortcuts'...they take longer in the end and only going to frustrate the whole process. In particular, a guitar like this allows one to work outside the guitar on wiring (unlike a strat's scratch plate) so take advantage of that with a cardborad template and such.

I dare say there are options for a standard selector around if you wnat to budget off of the super switch thing...

[newey]

Well, if you decide to use the guitar electronics diagram with the regular 5-way switch, you'd have two pots that could be replaced by Push/pulls, or by DPDT On-On toggles depending on your preferences. So I drew up this diagram showing one way to use those two spots. These are modules which you can easily incorporate into the GE diagram.

One module is for a neck phase switch, as per your stated desires for OOP choices. By itself, this would only give you the neck OOP with the middle.

But the second switch is a "Bridge On" switch, so that with the neck OOP, you'd now have both the N + B combo, plus the N + B OOP, the most useful OOP sound IMO.

If you were just going to have the phase switch alone, the middle pup would be a better location for it, since you'd then get the middle OOP with either the neck or the bridge at positions 2 and 4- but again, neither of those two OOP options is going to be as useable as the N + B OOP.

Now, you could put both the phase switch and the On/Off switch on the same pickup, either N or B, but the On switch, phase switch, and coil split on the 5-way would give you one combination of those three that would turn the pickup in question off entirely (At position 2 or 4, depending on which Pup had the two switches). By putting the phase switch and On switch on different pickups, we avoid that problem.

Now, hum-cancelling with this set-up merits some discussion. You will notice that the GE diagram gives two options, depending on whether positions 2 and 4 are hum-cancelling with the middle SC; the instructions say to switch the wiring around if you wire it up and find out it's not hum-cancelling. Better still is to test for this beforehand, by checking the polarities, so you don't have to go back in and rewire if you get it backwards.

Adding a neck phase switch will mean that, if you have the correct coils selected so as to be hum-cancelling with the middle pup, then flipping the neck OOP with the middle (i.e., at Pos. 4 on the 5-way) will not be hum-cancelling.

Flipping the "Bridge On" with the N (at Pos. 5 on the 5-way) will give you N + B, and since these are both full HBs, no worries about hum-cancelling there, whether in or out of phase. At Pos. 4, you'll have N(SC) + M + Bridge HB, which will also be hum-cancelling, unless the neck is put OOP, in which case you'll get only partial hum-cancelling.

I have used SD wire colors, since you indicated that you were using GFS pups (which are colored the same). I did not pay any attention to "which side is which" in the wiring of the switches; the issue doesn't matter if you're using toggles, but with P/P pots you want to be sure that you have the correct option wired with the pot "in"- you want it to be up for "Bridge On" as well as up for OOP, so that the down positions are the standard settings. So, if you're using P/Ps, you may have to mentally invert the wiring so as to ensure that (since I didn't mark a "top" or "bottom" on the diagram.)

[candyflipper7]

4real - Thanks for all of the advise! Got my brain working. The encouragement you have put out there has given me some confidence when I fire up the heat. Hope you will be around when I seriously get into modding. I am going to the gallery and check out your work. I hope I can hear some sound samples. That Strat is looking nice by the way. I will eventually get around to building one with that HHH idea I had originally. Everyone seems to love those Les Paul's and Leo Strat guitars..... I just always thought to go with feels comfortable to me and had a sound that I could feel. Never really picked up a strat long enough to fall in love with one to say the least.

Newie - Thanks for all of your help. You've been awesome, explaining all of this and drawing up stuff for me. I'm sure I'll have questions. If my guitars starts smoking or sparking I'll get back to you to ask what i'm doing wrong(LOL) Jk. Anyways...Thanks a million! You have been great helping me with the 2 projects. Ohhh, almost forgot. They got back to me from Germany about the Mega M.
He gave me a great price:

Hi Marc,

for you the switch is 9,30 €/unit + shipment (another 7 €). For orders of 10 switches or more the price is 7,35 € and 100+ 6,49 €.

best regards

Günter Eyb

So, After all the switches can be found! Thanks for mentioning to contact EYB directly. Never knew the owner would get back to me. Impressive!
I'm going to grab 3 of these for future projects starting with the HHH.