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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2013 3:57:11 GMT -5
My tech back at my home town, replaces a completely worn nut on my old aria strat-copy, but the spacing was E-E : 36 mm!!! which i perceive as insane. The nut length is 42mm. Is that "normal"? did he do it on purpose? or because he had no proper nuts.
Unfortunately i noticed after i left his shop, and then it was it was the day with the family and i had to go back to Athens. My home town is 500 km from Athens.
Should i just grab a nut and install it myself ? (i have experience with filing/installing a brass nut).
does 36mm E-E sound normal to you?
i have problems in high E with pull-offs
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megi
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Post by megi on Jan 10, 2013 4:58:50 GMT -5
To be honest, yes it does sound normal - just checked my tele, since it is to hand, and it has a string spacing of just over 35mm, measuring from the centers of the outside nut slots. The nut width is just a tad over 42mm. How does the 36mm compare to the spacing on your other guitars? Maybe you have been used to an unusually wide spacing without realising.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2013 6:20:41 GMT -5
To be honest, yes it does sound normal - just checked my tele, since it is to hand, and it has a string spacing of just over 35mm, measuring from the centers of the outside nut slots. The nut width is just a tad over 42mm. How does the 36mm compare to the spacing on your other guitars? Maybe you have been used to an unusually wide spacing without realising. thanx, i was implying quite the contrary, someth along the lines of 35mm between the outer side of E-E strings or even less, e.g. the official 42mm fender nuts have E-E spacing 34.5 . 36 seems just wrong. Also checked my other strat (with the brass nut) and the Ibanez ARZ800 (LP-ish) and they all have a decent E-E below 35 mm. i was just asking for opinions of ppl, on whether under certain conditions a 36mm E-E spacing could be reasonable.
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megi
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Post by megi on Jan 10, 2013 8:25:37 GMT -5
Ah I see, my mistake - just measured the string spacing on my Ibanez Joe Pass archtop, which I know has a bit of a wider neck (it's just about 44mm at the nut), and I find the string spacing is just a tad over 36mm, say 36.3mm-ish. So it seemed at first surprising to me that a mil could make such a difference to the playing feel, but maybe this is in fact quite a sensitive thing, and the 36mm is indeed unusual for your nut width. My other electrics all seem to be close to 35mm string spacing, and 42 to 43mm nut width. All interesting, but hope you can get your guitar sorted out to your satisfaction.
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megi
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Post by megi on Jan 10, 2013 8:32:35 GMT -5
Just to add, I've managed to make and fit my own bone nuts for a few of my guitars, with no previous experience. Just bought suitable bone blanks on ebay, and shaped with a decent flat file plus some finer sandpaper grits. I always went for a 35mm string spacing, partly because that's 5x7mm, which makes it easy to mark out with a ruler! For the string slots I now have a good set if nut files which are incredibly nice to have and help a lot (but expensive), in the past I have just about got by with those cheap welding nozzle cleaning files you can buy on ebay, plus folded bits of emery paper, or emery paper wrapped around a piece of old guitar string. Plenty of advice on how to do a nut fitting on Youtube and elsewhere.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2013 8:36:33 GMT -5
Thanx megi! Most probably i will have to gather supplies for the next round of guitar maintenance
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Post by sumgai on Jan 10, 2013 14:46:34 GMT -5
pyrros, I'll bet that your home-town tech knows you fairly well, and the style of music you most often like to play. Based on this, and his experiences with others playing the same kinds of music, he probably "adjusted" the string spacing to be a tad wider. In turn, this emulates a wider neck, which many shredders prefer, once they've tried and tested many different necks - style, shape, size, etc., all of these do make a difference to the feel, as you well know. I myself prefer a slightly wider neck than normal (1 11/16th inch versus 1 5/8 inch (42.8625 mm versus 41.275 mm)), my too-fat fingers like that slight-but-still-noticible extra room, decreasing my chances of hitting the wrong string(s). But in a pinch, I'm sure that just spreading out the strings on a regular-sized neck with a nut cut that way would also work for players like me. Still, if you're having playing issues (pull-offs, etc.), then you can go back to the spacing you are used to, easily enough. But sometimes you may be receiving a gift in disguise - you won't know if this way is better until you've given it a good long workout. If your only problem is pulling off the high-e string, odds are good that you can re-train your finger(s) to do it differently, eliminating the problem at the source. Sometimes, just sometimes, it's in your best interests to accomodate your equipment instead of making the equipment accomodate you. HTH sumgai
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2013 1:28:14 GMT -5
Pretty legit Sumgai, thanx. But why would shredders want that? I have not found any typical shredding guitars with such wide E-E spacing, or at least maybe that's my perception. Thinking about it, what would generally be, a pros/cons to a wider E-E spacing vs narrow E-E spacing? What is your perception?
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Post by sumgai on Jan 11, 2013 4:58:45 GMT -5
pyrros, Well, I can't think that it's a cultural difference, but there's really no explaining why people even just a few miles apart differ so widely in what they think is best, whether it be a soccer team, a guitar, or a politican. Wider, and a bit flatter, fingerboards facilitate more direct vertical finger movement down onto and up off of the string. Narrower boards require more curvature (the neck's radius) to prevent hands from assuming an unnatural position when forming chords. Shredders are actually a subset of many different styles of nylon string players in styles ranging from flamenco to classical. Many of those guitars do have "normal" neck widths, true, but many more of them are wider by comparison. In those worlds, the overall size is more closely considered to match the hand of the player, again so as to ensure good playing habits. Many successful shredders actually do have some flamenco or classical experience under their belts, and it's from those worlds that they brought over the flatter and wider necks/fingerboards. But those who never strayed in that direction, for them a JEM speed neck is the order of the day. And who's to say either way is right, or wrong? So long as the player is happy, right? ;D And hopefully making quality music. HTH sumgai
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2013 5:11:00 GMT -5
Thanx sumgai...
but isn't speed of vertical movement compromised as one finger has to travel a long distance ?
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Post by 4real on Jan 11, 2013 6:18:15 GMT -5
Fenders' squiers and MIM strats and all the copies vary in string to string and nut witdth and I notice it a lot.... I'm not sure if it is noticable in the pic, but the LSR nut is made for a legit fender and is here in the slightly thinner squier. It sticks out slightly on either side and the string spacing is significantly wider than original. Fortunately and only just,, it allows the outer E strings to hit the fretboard just shy of the round-over. I notice a big difference in string spacings, even if it is only a few mm. I'm not sure how you are amking this measuement, but a quick ruler to the tele's LSR and it is 36mm to the outside of the Low E string (35mm centre of grooves most likely). I also set my kahler bridges for the maximum string spread at that end and you can adjust the position of each saddle on those (kind of a unique and useful feature). As for 'shredder guitars' that really depends a lot, I am not sure that this is a valid 'thing' but there's always been a tendency towards flatter or compound radius boards and wider shallower necks. The ibanez wizzard neck always feels that way to me for instance and is the general 'model' for shredding' (though not sure what that even means these days) necks. Neck width and nut and string spacing played a huge role in me buying a new guitar and can be hard to find other than in expensive instruments and custom models. It is not about speed and classical and flamenco guitars can be played extrodinarily fast despite an even wider spacing. My new Godin has, by my 'ruler' (and without glasses on LOL) about a 44mm nut with a 38mm spread (to outside of string diameters). This keeps the strings well inside the fretboard and end fret rounding. The bridge has little 'spread' too, so the fretboard and strings remain fairly constant throughout the length. So, a little more like a classical though not as wide obviously. It also has a shorter, gibson like scale length which is unusual. If I could get an electric neck of a similar width, I'd likely consider it to be honest! I' a bit over 6' tall and have quite big hands but slenderish fingers and don't ahve trouble playing regular electrics though you get used to a certain 'feel' of things and even tiny amounts in mm does make quite a difference. My guitar of 25 years was an origianl LP which is a bit narrower and shorter than a fender so that is not a 'problem'...except... for the type of music you are wanting to play. For most things electric guitar, the normal range of widths are fine, especially single line work, sure. For more chordal work too it's ok. But, if you are doing more 'complex' things or relying on the guitar harmonically or contrupuntally or 'clean' then you are likely to want a little more 'room' if you can get it. This allows you to vibrato and bend a bit easier, espeically oblique bends and vibrato inside the chords for instance. It ensures that the notes will ring true and make it a little easier to play things without the risk of dampening adjacent strings. For even more complex things as required for contrapuntal fingerstyle gutiar, you really need this width to clear other strings and make stretches and leave some strings open and all that kind of thing without risiking touching adjacent strings. This is hugely important and remember, it is not just the 'fattness' of your fingers but how much room a string is going to need to vibrate free and within a 'grip'...even with the wider neck, It is taking a lot to get this aspect 'right' and if it is not, it really just sounds 'wrong' or 'bad'...it's a fine line! I think PRS's are a bit wider and flatter for instance than either fender and certainly gibson standards. Legit fenders also have quite a bit wider bridge spacings. There is a lot of factors that affect what can be done with a nut, the fret rounding is important in deciding that, I've found. Some of it is preference or how you play personally as well I guess in what you play. Generally though, there are a range of 'standards' in replacement nuts and graphtechs are very good and have great pre-cut and shaped grooves, you file the bottom to height. My new gutiar and LP have graphtech graphite nuts. The LSR is a big commitment in that you actually ahve to route out the nut slot forward of it's normal position so a permanent mod and not for the faint hearted. It coes however attach with screws and shims, so it is effectively adjustable without the need for any filing, is friction free and has dampers for each string behind the rollers so as to stop any behind the nut vibrations and to eliminate the need for string trees. But, they are not going to fit every fender style guitar. ... I'm not sure what you mean by 'insane' or why you'd be having problems with high e string pull-offs as there is no adjacent strings...is the string now too close to the sides of the fretboard or fret rounding. It might well be that a legit' fender nut has beeen installed on an 'import' neck which is almost always a lot smaller. well said sum... What exactly is a 'shredder' these days anyway? A lot of teh 'shredders' did silly amounts of 'scale work' that required a more 'correct' hand position and systematic fingering...chances are that you'd favour a little wider and flatter IMO and 'thinner too. If you have more of a 'hendrix' technique to which my playing kind evolved (I practiced scales and such as a kid) then man favour a thicker and more rounded neck, but there are so many variables involved and you just get used to things I suspect... If it is mechanically fine, I am sure you will adjust, after all, it's at most a mm difference or the like at best. ... I guess this also shows why it is important to pay attention to all teh details and either tell someone working on your guitar specifiicaly what you want or learn to DIY and so be able to play with the variables and find what it just right for you. And it is very individual, you really can't legit look to standards or artists for guidance as they are not you either. But, thinking it through and researching can reveal a lot.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2013 7:40:05 GMT -5
is the string now too close to the sides of the fretboard or fret rounding. exactly, and this guitar now has .010's strings. What would happen if i switch to 0.009's? e.g. when doing doing the solo of Deep Purple : Burn its at 0:40 in the above video. If i had 9s strings, then i would certainly fall down into the rounded part of the end of the fret.
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Post by sumgai on Jan 11, 2013 13:29:46 GMT -5
is the string now too close to the sides of the fretboard or fret rounding.
exactly, and this guitar now has .010's strings. What would happen if i switch to 0.009's?What would happen? IMO, you'd get even sloppier. Goes with the territory. I've heard (as has most of the NutzHouse, I'm sure) some of your clips, so we know you aren't inexperienced, you do have better-than-average skills. But I must take the position, from my vantage point of experience, that you are now looking to modify your instrument(s) to make up for your sloppiness. How can I make such a statement? Aren't I hiding behind the Internet like a troll or a bully? Yes, in a manner of speaking, that's true. But consider...... As just noted, you've posted clips of yourself, so I have heard you, or at least 2 minutes' worth of your playing. This being the Internet, you have no idea if I'm really an old codger who's heard just about everone, or if I'm a cat pawing at the keyboard - you just have to take my word for it. But the fact is, it doesn't matter what I think - when all the talking is done, the only thing that matters is what you learn from our conversations, and how you incorporate all that into your playing. And I don't mean just you and me, I mean everyone you talk with, both here and on other forums and such. (As evidenced by the video above, I think you're spending as much time as you dare, looking for ways to learn how to play better.) Now, as to the nature of sloppiness. Let me tell you a story. No, a couple of them. One, this happened 41 years ago. I'm back working in the music store where I worked as a kid in high school, only now I'm out of the Army, and supporting myself and a girlfriend. I'm the guitar and amp tech. This guy walks in, quietly asks to play the most expensive guitar we have, a $1200 Gibson Byrdland. (Probably 7 to 8 grand in today's dollars.) He sits down and proceeds to massacre the fingerboard with some of the most clumsy, sausage-fingered movements I've ever seen, even up til now. But somehow, I can't explain it, my ears were just severed from my eyes - I was hearing the most Gawd-awful quickest passages and licks ever invented by a human hand. This quy made greased lightning look like the poster boy for polio vaccinations! What could've caused this discrepancy between my eyes and ears? Simple - expectations. The fella looked a bit.... not simple, but, maybe, too relaxed. And that was it - I realized that he was not straining for anything, he simply executed whatever was on his mind at the moment, no thought processes to get in the way. He was communing with his personal Gawd. And that was my first introduction to Roy Clark. (I met many other famous and almost-famous players in that shop during my early days, this was the premier guitar shop for the Pacific Northwest, in those days.) Story number 2. One of the nicest guys you could ever hope to meet, period, is Michael Powers. (Not to be confused with another M. Powers. Viewer discretion is advised.) Now Michael and I have met way too often in the last 20 years, but I've never played behind him, I'm just not in his calibre of musicianship, nor would I have ever gotten there, no matter how long I tried - he's just one of those gifted few to whom "the Muse speaks, and he merely translates". But consider the video below. Watch his fingers. You'd never believe for a moment that he graduated Magna Cum Laude from the Northwest's only school of arts that compared to the likes of Berklee College Of Music or the Julliard School of Arts. What I see is a reincarnation of Roy Clark so many years ago - a total disconnect between sloppy fingers and beautiful music. Now all of the preceding is to illustrate two things. One, what the masters and professionals all try to tell you is only a starting point - follow your heart and develop your own style and abilities, and you'll do just fine. The other thing is, by doing the first, you'll find that the equipment will sort itself out - no need to obsess over minute details, your innate skill will immediately and unconciously compensate for any niggling little differences between your best desires and the axe currently under your hands. That translates to, when you can walk into a store or someone's home and pickup a strange guitar, you can still play exactly like you always play, and never break a sweat about how that strange guitar is gonna feel. Why? Because you won't care how it feels. Why? Because the mark of the musician is how it sounds. Bottom line. End of story. When you get to that point, look me up - I'll be standing at the head of the line, waiting to buy tickets to see and hear your performance!! Warning: Not a shredder video! HTH sumgai
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Post by 4real on Jan 11, 2013 14:38:57 GMT -5
What is the guitar we are talking about...you know for details and advice, pictures of the actual problem is helpful...beats a 'guessing game'...
There is some merit in what Sum says, the whole 'shredding thing' has justifiably gotten a bad name, not sure that I'd really put Blackmore in that vein, but I guess that is something of where it came from.
And, I don't believe that people can do anything with any guitar, though Jeff Beck did his first US tour picking up hire strats, some of which were abysmal apparently, at each stop along the way, and still was able to pull off the gig. I saw Roy Buchanan years back in Oz and he did similarly with a strat rather than his trademark tele and still sounded and played extraordinarily.
But, there does seem to be a bit of immaturity here and a search for something that is not really valid, generalizations and 'mojo' as if there is some kind of 'perfect' guitar or pickup or 'sustain' or what ever quality that is desired and for the first port of call to be the 'equipment' for solutions. Besides, if you are going to be that picky then you need to know these details and preferences before you put it in another's hands or learn to DIY which is possibly a better road to learn what is required or desired and maintain things. This takes some study and some tools, but one does need to look to oneself and often it will require custom work and not a 'store bought nut' or components if you do step out of the norm.
As I said above, I like wide and prepared to make the adjustments for the LSR to make it work and in my playing to ensure that the strings and my playing don't fluff on those rounded ends of the frets on the outer strings.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2013 11:01:02 GMT -5
Finally I scrapped the old bone nut, with the strange dimensions and installed a new plastic one. Ok, here are some pics of the end result: Low E side it is a little off, i know, no issues there. Now the new nut is ok, it is cheapo plastic, extremely easy to work on, sounds good but not perfect, i got some slight suspicion of "sitar" effect at times but no big deal. Also i visited today a new tech near my house. A really cool guy. Almost gave me lots of (used) supplies and he would not accept a penny. Anyway, maybe this will be the next go-to guy. Finally didn't get much, only some hardwood ( ?) , a thin layer to help with my shimming, he gave me advice, and drove home to rectify the situation. Sumgai man, sometime i gotta listen to those videos, you posted. But do not expect me to give a concert or anything, i am a full time working dog, guitars are just a therapy. God bless the wife for tolerating me
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2013 11:40:07 GMT -5
Man just checked Roy Clark!!! GENIUS !!!
warning : shredder video!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2013 11:41:56 GMT -5
hmmmm the shredder genes seem to be right there and hard to hide
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2013 13:33:38 GMT -5
after some minor mods, a more sane version of the new plastic nut : and the finished product :
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Post by 4real on Jan 12, 2013 15:19:58 GMT -5
I wish that you had shown a before thing, and perhaps done that in teh first post...
Also...I honestly wish you would control the use of the word 'sane' and 'insane' in this kind of context...if you could try to...
This neck is typical of a cheapo ultra skinny neck strat, exactly the kind of thing that I try and avoid. Of course the legit parts dont work, but you can find a cheap plastic thing. Now, why did you go cheap plastic when a really good graphtech is way under $10?
Your measurement (which I used too) is not measuring the slot spacing as it adds the thicknesss of teh strings, particularly the thick low E string. I did so because it was easy to measure and for consistency in this thread, but you can not compare that to string slot examples say for manufacturers who measure teh slots, etc...so you need to deduct a bit more. Regardless, what you ended up with is of no meaning, other than that is what that cheap skinny neck copy requires
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Post by JohnH on Jan 12, 2013 17:55:40 GMT -5
Just for info, the string spacing on my American Special Strat is 35.5mm at the nut, to about the nearest 0.25mm. Thats centre to centre, so 36mm outside to outside.. Nut length measures 43mm.
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Post by 4real on Jan 12, 2013 23:18:34 GMT -5
Yep, so exactly like my LSR...it just fitted my squier which is a little thinner...things like the aria here are likely to be thinner still. Personally I wish they'd go wider still, it is amazing how just a few mills can make such a difference but it does.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2013 10:01:47 GMT -5
I wish that you had shown a before thing, and perhaps done that in teh first post... Why would that change? The Aria strat's specs are like the american standard (and presumably wider than your more than once praised squire). It measures 43- mm at the nut, 56+ E-E at the bridge. Tremolo, neck, tuners, even pickguard, everything about it cries pre-70s american strat. I bought it new in 1984. (my first guitar). So it is a very typical "american"-sized strat, by all means. MIJ as well. Japanese products are considered good i guess by common perception, no? ;D The 36mm e-e nut spacing is nowhere to be found in the market for nuts less or equal than 43mm. The home town tech, simply did a stupid mistake. This neck is typical of a cheapo ultra skinny neck strat No. exactly the kind of thing that I try and avoid. Irrelevant. Of course the legit parts dont work They do. but you can find a cheap plastic thing. lol Now, why did you go cheap plastic when a really good graphtech is way under $10? If my guitar was tiny asian spec'd and therefore i could not find legit parts, but only cheap ones, how the heck would the graphtech fit. Just a theoretical question man. The answer maybe is that i tried not to ruin the general cheapness equilibrium therefore i found the cheapest i could. Is that answer ok for you? Your measurement (which I used too) is not measuring the slot spacing as it adds the thicknesss of teh strings, particularly the thick low E string. I did so because it was easy to measure and for consistency in this thread, but you can not compare that to string slot examples say for manufacturers who measure teh slots, etc...so you need to deduct a bit more. Ok, subtract 0.5mm. Still nothing to be found in the market. No nuts with E-E larger/equal than/to 35.5 for nuts less/equal than/to 43mm. Regardless, what you ended up with is of no meaning, other than that is what that cheap skinny neck copy requires I would not change this guitar for all the gibson LPs, a majority stake in Gibson, and all the upgraded squires of the world. Hope that makes sense now. BTW by my calculations, its price in 1984 cost 1/3 the salary of a teacher, which would xlate in todays money at about 300 Euro. (more than high-end squires, i guess). Anyway, i try to keep the thing original, no fancy upgrades which just ruin its vintage image.
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Post by D2o on Jan 13, 2013 11:49:16 GMT -5
Guys, let's keep the thermostat at room temperature and avoid having to ask anyone to turn it down a few degrees.
Thanks, D2o
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Post by lunaalta on Jan 13, 2013 13:19:21 GMT -5
Just out of interest, I measured the old (now swapped out) maple one piece neck from my '73 Fender Strat. Nut width = just over 40 mm Outside slot to slot = 34 mm The new neck has 41 mm and 34.5 mm.......
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Post by 4real on Jan 13, 2013 15:09:19 GMT -5
Just make it clear hwen you start a thread that you don't want my input or that of any particular member here. I speak from actual guitar I ahve and own and have with me, if you ahve a problem with that, go back to the mojo infused forum that you were warned from and ask forgiveness, they seem to be on your wave length and know about as much as you...why even ask the question when all you needed to do was show a picture of teh before and everyone here would tell you that on this guitar, the fretboard is thinner and so the outer strings were falling on the rounded fret ends...and inadequate words like 'insane' as an adjective is not an invalid sugggestion either.
I don't know if your guitar tech was 'insane' as you say...but what does it say about you that you not only praised, chose and paid the guy...you also failed to take a good look at his handy work nor see the fault with the guitar in your hands, then run us on a guessing game here that simple picture would have surficed to be obvious and even more so if the guitar were in one's hands.
The answers to your rude questions and observations of me there are as obvious as the fault that you failed to understand ~ I coreectly pinpointed the 'problem' without the aid of a picture and you were able to change the nut to something suitable and insult your own choice of 'guitar tech' that I don't know and yourself...well done, here have a scooby snack, you don't need GN2 to tell you waht to do!
(Oh, and btw, this thread has completely monopolised the 20 most recent posts...way to make the forum more 'interesting and more inclusive!)
And, I'm very familiar with aria strat necks, I have two and one is a similar vinatge and used on the last 'jazz strat' project, the skinny neck is why I tend not to play it...but a picture of it would illustrate nothing...
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Post by D2o on Jan 13, 2013 17:19:42 GMT -5
All of this has whetted my own curiosity ...
1991 Peavey Predator 42.5mm nut width ; 36.5mm (outside E to outside e)
D2o
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Post by newey on Jan 13, 2013 18:44:58 GMT -5
And mine, and given me an excuse to break out those fancy digital calipers I got last year. All measurements are to the outsides of the strings, not center-to-center.
My "Flyin' Pumpkin". which began life as a Washburn Idol, has what I always considered to be a very wide neck and consequently wide string spacing. And I was right, it's the widest of those I measured, at 35.9mm on a 43.1mm nut.
My Ibanez S470 (roughly 1990 vintage) I would consider to have what is, to me as a non-shredder, a "shredder's neck- very narrow C profile, super thin. It clocked in at 35.3mm on a 42.4mm nut.
But my big surprise was my Yamaha E112C (Strat clone) I always thought of this neck as being pretty much "standard sized". But it's tiny- 33.8mm on a 40.9mm nut.
If anyone had asked me beforehand, I would have guessed the Ibby to be the narrowest. And, I really like the Yamaha neck, even though I usually like a bit wider spacing- I never noticed how narrow this neck was, it "feels bigger" somehow.
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Post by 4real on Jan 13, 2013 19:41:01 GMT -5
There's a lot of factors in all of this, the depth of the neck, the rounding 'worn in' feel, the size of the frets, the fret bevels, flatness of the fretboard...and the amounts are tiny but do make a big difference as to feel...I'm not sure one can define a 'shredders' neck, but always felt that the ibanez 'Vai' like necks to be a little wider and flatter than some of the copies, more like a fender which is quite wide while a gibson is narrower.
My Epiphone and Godin are similar/same string spacing, but the epi feels wider due to it having a shallower neck and profile...the strings are slotted neare the neck edge as well (with a zero fret) and this old guitar is very 'worn'
...
There is a danger measuring from the ouside of the strings and nnot the solts as that thicker sting guage can vary a bit...my aria neck on my jazz-strat thing is narrow (gibson like) but is strung with light top/heavy bottom strings and so that thick low E makes the measure seem to be wider than it is, the real big factor is the distance between the strings and the fretboard edges/bevels in comparisions I'd think!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 4:40:16 GMT -5
Just make it clear hwen you start a thread that you don't want my input or that of any particular member here. Your last input was plain genuine negative ranting. (just count the negative words you wrote : cheap cheap cheapo tiny, etc...) I certainly don't want this, nobody would do. I speak from actual guitar I ahve and own and have with me, if you ahve a problem with that, go back to the mojo infused forum that you were warned from and ask forgiveness, they seem to be on your wave length and know about as much as you... lol, you are the one trying to mute the voices who simply disagree with you. You have created a whole dogma of mentoring people, you do it like 24x7, and get mad when anyone (presumably younger, shredder, mojo, hype kind of member) dares not to align 100% with your line. why even ask the question when all you needed to do was show a picture of teh before and everyone here would tell you that on this guitar, the fretboard is thinner and so the outer strings were falling on the rounded fret ends...and inadequate words like 'insane' as an adjective is not an invalid sugggestion either. Too much arbitrary talking here, its hard for me to start, but i'll do it : a) how can you know a neck's dimensions by ..... a picture? is it 40mm? 41mm?? 45mm? can you tell by just a picture? What would change ? b) are all Arias the same? Once you see smth that looks like yours it must automagically match any spec figure with yours? c) i explicitly wrote that the nut is 42mm at the very beginning, (in reality it is about 42.mm+). Isn't this explicit enough for you? I searched the market for nuts/necks of my dimensions and simply found nothing equal or larger than 35.5mm. Isn't this descriptive enough for you? see below : The nut length is 42mm. does 36mm E-E sound normal to you? you certainly do not want any picture for that. The original question was theoretical. As the thread evolves, people giving their numbers, this is what the intended flow of conversation. I don't know if your guitar tech was 'insane' as you say...but what does it say about you that you not only praised, chose and paid the guy...you also failed to take a good look at his handy work nor see the fault with the guitar in your hands, then run us on a guessing game here that simple picture would have surficed to be obvious and even more so if the guitar were in one's hands. I had handed two guitars to him, my time was limited. Sorry but besides playing the guitar, i gotta be a full time employee-worker, father, husband, i cannot spend 4 hours at the tech drinking coffees and chatting, my time is limited. The tech's work on the other strat (blue one) it was 100% superb. Now in the aria which underwent a refret, he did a good job for under 120 euro, which i suppose is hard to beat. Therefore i consider the whole project as a success and the home town tech guy as a person to go to. Mistakes happen. If i was nearby, he would replace the nut for free. But as it turned out for me it was a PITA to sort out. You see the issue is multidimensional and hard to describe with absolutely accurate terms. So, the tech guy is good but screwed up in this specific issue. (i see you are referring again to the picture ... .... as if a 42mm figure is not enough) The answers to your rude questions and observations of me there are as obvious as the fault that you failed to understand ~ I coreectly pinpointed the 'problem' without the aid of a picture and you were able to change the nut to something suitable and insult your own choice of 'guitar tech' that I don't know and yourself...well done, here have a scooby snack, you don't need GN2 to tell you waht to do! Here i lost you. rude, insult, picture, scooby snack, its getting fuzzy. but a picture of it would illustrate nothing...
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2013 4:43:11 GMT -5
And mine, and given me an excuse to break out those fancy digital calipers I got last year. All measurements are to the outsides of the strings, not center-to-center. My "Flyin' Pumpkin". which began life as a Washburn Idol, has what I always considered to be a very wide neck and consequently wide string spacing. And I was right, it's the widest of those I measured, at 35.9mm on a 43.1mm nut. My Ibanez S470 (roughly 1990 vintage) I would consider to have what is, to me as a non-shredder, a "shredder's neck- very narrow C profile, super thin. It clocked in at 35.3mm on a 42.4mm nut. But my big surprise was my Yamaha E112C (Strat clone) I always thought of this neck as being pretty much "standard sized". But it's tiny- 33.8mm on a 40.9mm nut. If anyone had asked me beforehand, I would have guessed the Ibby to be the narrowest. And, I really like the Yamaha neck, even though I usually like a bit wider spacing- I never noticed how narrow this neck was, it "feels bigger" somehow. Thanx, so it seems that a 36mm e-e spacing in a 42-42.5mm nut is on the extreme and not the norm.
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