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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2013 6:28:37 GMT -5
Hi again! Lately, well yesterday, i started transforming my Yamaha APX500 cutaway electro-acoustic into smth more "shreddy". I tried to tighten the truss rod, but i was shocked to find out that it would tun up to a point and then refuse to turn, while the guitar *still* had not acquired the desired relief (which in my case translates to : minimal, like 0.10-0.15mm on 7th fret). Then i just turned the truss rod a little bit counter-clock-wise as a safety measure, to not give it much stress. Thing is, i cannot seem to make the neck flat. And this, i suppose, hurts string action height.
So, the question is, how would you estimate the ideal shreddy action for an single cutaway electro-acoustic ?
I have read on the Yamaha site, that action is supposed to be at 2mm/3mm high/low E at 12th fret, and relief at about 0.010 inches (~0.25mm), i'll check those measurements on mine when i get home..
However, i cannot see why the action cannot be setup as low as it can be on the electrics...
The truss rod problem puzzled me... Why would it refuse to completely strengthen the neck?
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Post by ux4484 on Dec 9, 2013 9:21:10 GMT -5
GD, A lot of truss rods have a stopping point, it's a very prickly situation when you max it out. My luthier guy won't buy a used axe for his shop until he checks to make sure that the rod is NOT maxed out, bound up, or flopped. You can try putting it at the max, and play it for a few days like that (to let everything settle), and then see if you can tweak it some more (losen first, then adjust). The worst thing you can do is have it spin. (Flop) in the neck cavity as you'll likely never get it as tight as it was before it spun. If you search the forum, you'll find some excellent discussions (and pics AIR) of truss rod designs and limitations.
I own the predecessor of that acoustic (APX 5), and I'm at a loss as to why you'd tweak such a reliable acoustic (of thinline acoustics, it's one of the best sounding ones for the $$$).
You also have intonation to think of, changing that relief will change the action, which may throw it off. Even with the uncompensated saddle mine has, it's so good I won't mess with it (it is my one guitar that above mentioned luthier sets up).
That said, have you already tried lighter strings (oh... I see you have another thread).
Maybe you should look at a low end Ovation that already has an electric-like neck and near shred like action (REAL USA ovations ship with a pack of shims for the saddle).
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2013 9:29:29 GMT -5
I used to have some Daddario lights (acoustic) on it, and the action was indeed on par with the electrics. However i wanted to use that guitar for practicing and thus fit some ernie-ball (electric) 11's on it. (with unwound G).
Just wanted to make sure that the guitar is healthy. I'll check measurements when i get home.
Thanx.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2013 11:36:22 GMT -5
Did some measurements : Relief somewhere at 0.15-0.2mm Height (without capo) @12th fret : high E/low E : 1.7mm/2.0mm
I guess it is alright. Might remove some bridge shim to see what happens.
My first (and best by far) teacher (who in 1989 could nail any solo from any player, and who could play double hand tapping much earlier than it became mainstream) told me, that string gauge must be heavy but action height must be low.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2013 12:54:34 GMT -5
Re-did the setup by removing the shims, now i have string height @12th fret : High E/Low E : 1.4mm/1.8mm. What i would call a shreddy-gypsy Django-ready axe!!
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