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Post by geo on Mar 31, 2014 2:14:25 GMT -5
I have an old Ibanez RG2EX1 that hasn't been played in ~2 years. I just rewired the switch, it works perfectly, but the fretboard is a little gross, screws are all rusted on top, frets look all dull and not-shiny.
Question is:
1) How can I remove the rust on the screws and whatnot without ruining fretboard or finish?
2) Oil the fretboard and it's good to go, right?
3) Anything else this needs for maintenance?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2014 3:54:49 GMT -5
You mean the neck screws? or the nut screws? Its the first time i hear that those could get rusty. Anyways, If you are concerned about damaging the finish, then simply disassemble the neck from the body (or the nut) and remove the screws. Then treat them accordingly, and put everything back. Oiling the fretboard wouldn't do any harm, but nothing particularly good either. If you play the guitar, your own body oil coming from your fingers will treat the fretboard just as well. Now, what you should do, is polish the frets. That is where, personally i would consider a job worth doing.
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Post by Double Yoi on Mar 31, 2014 8:32:04 GMT -5
Is your fingerboard maple or rosewood/ebony? I would advise against oiling a maple with anything other then fastfret. Lemon oil on the other hand has sparked a few debates on this forum but personally I have never experience any of the problems noted in those debates ie, fret separation. Polishing the frets maybe something best suited for your local guitar tech, he has the right tools to do it and since its been in storage for so long probably needs a set up. If you decide you want to have a go at it, there are plenty of retailers to buy the proper tools to do so. but the Pro set up would probably be cheaper in the long run. As for the rusty screws, maybe post a picture so we can see exactly which screws you mean. Lastly, this may be a perfect opportunity to learn how to do the above repairs and set up..which will lead to mods and all kinds of great headaches.. Just remember go slow and plan. Have fun Bro.
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 31, 2014 8:43:14 GMT -5
I have a roll of thin clear plastic that I use to make fretboard protectors, I cut a slit in it with an exacto knife the size/width of the bottom fret, and it's good all the way up to the top (they look like old fashion razor blades). This lets me polish frets with 0000 or 0001 steel wool and keeps the fretboard scratch free. For real gummed up fretboards, I use unscented baby wipes to dig in on the fret edge, and follow up with fast fret or lemon oil (have yet to have any issues with formby'e lemon oil). The screws I would remove and clean with fine steel wool or a fine brass (or stainless) wire brush. You could make a guard for that as well (and tape it down with 3M blue tape), but if it can be removed, you should remove it to clean it.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 31, 2014 23:19:24 GMT -5
To polish frets, even the really short ones, one does not really need fretboard protectors, although using them (or tape) is a must when doing fret crowning or other fret dressing jobs. To polish the frets, just put the steel wool under some rectangular rubber eraser and work firmly against the frets, this will polish not only the top but some of the sideways of crown as well. Hitting some wood now and then will not do any harm. (if we imagine that they use to level the board with sandpaper)
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 1, 2014 8:55:38 GMT -5
I find it goes much faster with the fret protectors.
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Post by Double Yoi on Apr 1, 2014 9:38:47 GMT -5
I think the protector is a good idea. Polishing the fret with steel wool, or a polishing tool is done across the grain of the fingerboard. So take the extra step and protect it.
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Post by JohnH on Apr 1, 2014 14:14:09 GMT -5
The first guitar I polished the frets of was an old classical, for a friend, about 30 years ago. I used wire wool, it looked nice and she was happy. But I didn't protect the finger board, and I did scratch it.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 1, 2014 14:30:54 GMT -5
I find it goes much faster with the fret protectors. imho there is no need to polish the frets on a regularly played guitar, since the strings themselves do more than any steelwool would ever do. So, my take is that normally, polishing comes after some crowning, in which case there should already be some kind of protection anyways, right. But still dont get it how protectors will help polishing go faster. How do you guys do this? If you follow a sweeping across the fretboard approach i can see why.
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 1, 2014 19:57:06 GMT -5
Ummm... Because I'm not just servicing my guitars (and I do flip them when I see a quick turn around). Most guitars I see are rarely serviced or poorly treated, the fret edges crammed with sweat and DNA. Frets are often discolored and oxidizing. I polish the frets first, the protectors let me clean right to the fret edge at the wood without making a scratch. I'm cleaning here, not trying to change the shape (though it does nicely remove the edge of flattening spots that happen regularly on acoustics and basses). I do go from side to side, lifting as I get to the edge to keep it even. It's fast, easy, and reliable. Then I dig in with the baby wipes to remove the sweat and DNA residue, once dry, it's fast fret or lemon oil (usually depends which is a closer reach). I see a lot of student guitars that parents drop off as they're paying for lessons and their kids are getting frustrated with what they think is a sub-par instrument (something the very stores they bought them at tell them, or "Their playing ability is beyond such a basic instrument"). These days as long as it's not a Wal-Mart acoustic or the like, a cleaning and set up takes care of it. Most of these folks started as computer customers, learned I tinker with guitars and asked if I would look at theirs. Keeps me busy and interested (though sometimes GAS can be a side effect). I do polish mine at every other string change (though I don't change them often).
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