OK, gdgonzal, that does help clarify things a bit. Per Carvin's text you quoted, it's a 3-wire HB as I suspected.
But then Carvin muddies the waters quite a bit after that, 'cause they tell you to use the wiring diagrams on the same page-
and all those diagrams are for a 4-wire HB, not a 3-wire!Look closely at the diagrams Carvin provides- they all show 4 wires (red, white, black, and green), plus the bare shield! You don't have a green wire . . .
gdg, you have discovered one of the reasons for this community's existence. There's a lot of inaccurate info out there, and some of it even comes from manufacturers who don't know their own products. In your case, Schecter's tech guy can't tell you what the wiring for their guitar is, and Carvin has diagrams that don't match the text. So here, a "double whammy" of misinformation.
In the case of Carvin, at least, I don't know if they still make "series 22" pickups or not, but hopefully someone has already pointed out the discrepancy, and hopefully they have corrected it.
Lest you think any of this is particularly unusual, it is not. People here have found diagram errors from Fender and Gibson, for example. And, for many older guitars, accurate diagrams simply don't exist, especially if production ceased pre-internet.
But fear not, we'll work you through this.
First of all, since you are using pickups from 2 different manufacturers, you only have a 50% chance that they will be wired in phase with each other. As Carvin states, be prepared to swap "hot" and "ground" on one of the two pickups if they sound out of phase when you have it all wired up. But that can be tough to do, if you have a guitar where the strings and pickguard must be removed to access the wiring. If so, and/or if you just want to be sure which way the wires go before you start, you can do some testing first. To test, you will either need an analog multimeter (not so common anymore, most new ones are digital)
or you will need to be able to connect to a PC with recording software installed. You can find a description of this testing, courtesy of our mayven JohnH,
here.
Next, I'm going to apply the old assumption about ducks. You know, "if it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck . . ." then the odds are good that it is, in fact, a duck. Your pickup looks like a 3-wire HB, and Carvin says it's a 3-wire HB, so we're going to assume that's what it is, despite the diagrammatic screw-up. So, ignore Carvin's diagram and go back to the first one you posted. We're going to modify that diagram so that it will work for your 3-wire HB.
The diagram shows the black wire going to the toggle switch, and from there to the "hot" output. Per Carvin's description, the red wire should go there instead (as above, that may change depending on the phasing question). So, wire the red to the toggle and wire the black wire to the ground. Only the white wire remains wired to the P/P pot.
Now, if you didn't care which coil was the one that got "split", you'd be done- one or the other coil would be split when the P/P was pulled up. But you want the "A", or top, coil to be the one left operating when the switch is pulled. You now have 2 choices. First, you can wire it up as per the diagram, see which coil you get, and then be prepared to change the wiring if you don't get the top coil. Or, if you have (or can borrow) a multimeter, we can work out which is which in advance.
Let me explain further, so you see where this is going. As above, your white wire remains wired to the center lug on one side of the P/P pot. The top lugs of the P/P are shown as being grounded, via a black wire to the back of one of the pots (as shown, the black wire connects to both upper lugs of the P/P pot, but that is superfluous, since you're only using one-half of the P/P. In reality, you only need to ground the lug on the side where the white wire is connected, since there's nothing connected to the other half of the P/P switch).
So when pulled up, the white wire is connected to ground, thus shorting one of the two coils to ground, and leaving the other coil operating. But, we don't know which of the two coils that is. If it turns out that you want the opposite coil instead, then you would remove that black wire (the one running from the P/P to the back of the pot) at the pot end, laving it connected to the P/P switch. Instead of it being wired to ground, you wire it to the "hot" output. Easiest way to accomplish that is to wire it to the middle lug of the volume pot. Now, instead of shorting one coil to ground, we're shorting both ends of the other coil to the "hot" side, thus leaving the opposite coil operating.
If your guitar has rear access to the wiring, so that rewiring doesn't require restringing it, you can just go ahead and wire it up, but be prepared to have to swap the red and the black wires for correct phasing with the neck pickup, and be prepared to rewire the HB as I have described to get the correct coil split.
Or, if you have a meter, and you want to be sure the first time, then let me know and we'll discuss how to test for which coil gets cut (and test for phase as shown above).
Either way, I strongly suggest that you redraw the diagram as I have indicated, so that you have a good diagram to work from. That will also allow me to check that you have understood my verbal description correctly. It can be difficult to wire from a written description, better to have a picture with which to work.