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Post by ashcatlt on Jul 3, 2014 15:49:20 GMT -5
So, not gonna go into too much detail here because... But I think I may have turned the truss rod on my P-style bass a couple too many times in the wrong direction. I didn't hear any horrible noises or anything. I didn't use a hammer. It seemed to help at first, but after it sat for a couple days the bow is much worse than ever. So I tried turning it the other direction. There's really no resistance at all, and it is making absolutely no difference no matter how many times I turn the thing. I'm very much afraid that I have completely threaded the end of the rod out of the nut inside the neck, and now it's not going back in. Is that even possible? How many turns could it possibly take to get back to the where it should be? How far out of the hole (at the head end on this bass) should the nut be sticking? Is there any way to tell for sure? Can I get it back in there? Is it time to get out that hammer? Or should I be shopping for a new neck? I have the idea that the curve of the neck might be enough to keep the end of the rod from lining up close enough to the hole in the nut, so I took the strings off and leaned it against the wall so that it's pushing against the bow of the neck in hopes that it will straighten out enough to get it to catch, but I don't know. There's a reason I've always refused to do these kinds of tweaks, but this one wasn't really playable to begin with. I'd like it to be eventually...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2014 2:49:41 GMT -5
Hey, in case of damaged threads, why don't you go to machine shop and try to make a new rod-end nut? same thread size, but physically slightly bigger to compensate for any potential loss of wood due to compression? This applies to the case when the theory about the damaged thread is correct.
It also might be that the wood has compressed so much that there is no tension at all to hold the neck in shape. Did you try to see that threads of the nut are ok? Did you try to remove the nut? If the threads are ok (by removing the nut and testing with equal size threaded bolt), then to test this theory you might add some washers between the rod-nut and the wood to see if this has any impact. If this theory is correct, and problem is solved, then the wood compression IMO is smth that tou must solve,
That's the two theories i can think of.
By the looks of it seems more like the first theory since turning this clockwise (?) has no impact. Hey, does turning counter-clockwise do anything? are you able to remove the nut?
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Post by cynical1 on Jul 4, 2014 16:15:40 GMT -5
If you take the strings off and tap on the neck do you hear the truss rod vibrating in the routed channel?
HTC1
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Post by ashcatlt on Jul 5, 2014 11:12:57 GMT -5
If you take the strings off and tap on the neck do you hear the truss rod vibrating in the routed channel? HTC1 It's kinda hard to tell over the sound of the other hardware on the headstock. There's nothing inside actually rattling. Might be a little bit of a metallic resonance in there, but IDK for sure. Edit - OK, wrapped a blanket around the head to dampen the tuners, and it really just sounds like tapping on wood. Nothing in the sound that I would attribute to the truss rod. From greekdude's post I tried grabbing the nut with a pliers and pulling out, but it didn't move. I can wiggle it around with the hex wrench, but it's not coming out. It does seem like the nut was sticking out of the hole a bit further before I started trying to screw it back in, but I didn't measure anything, so it might just be wishful thinking.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 5, 2014 12:50:36 GMT -5
Asch, are you cool with opening up the fretboard and getting access to the truss rod mechanism? If your next bet is to change neck, you should at least try to fix it yourself. Cyn1 is the man for such missions.
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Post by ashcatlt on Jul 6, 2014 10:07:09 GMT -5
I have none of the things neccessary (tools, time, experience, patience..) to remove and replace the fretboard. I take it then, that I should be looking for a replacement neck?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2014 6:16:34 GMT -5
I have none of the things neccessary (tools, time, experience, patience..) to remove and replace the fretboard. I take it then, that I should be looking for a replacement neck? How much does it cost?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2014 1:21:45 GMT -5
I have none of the things neccessary (tools, time, experience, patience..) to remove and replace the fretboard. I take it then, that I should be looking for a replacement neck? I completely pulled out the truss rod of my super strat today (kramer 210). At first it would not come out, i was aiming at only the cylinder nut end. I tried with pliers, with other tools to no avail. In the end, it came all out the assembly, nut + truss rod, as i had fitted the allen wrench into the nut and accidentally pulled out. So it came out only by its alen key, effectively no other tool involved. If you manage to do this, you may try to see what is wrong. See if its a quick fix (lubrication, etc..) or do you really need a new nut and/or truss rod. I was amazed at how easy it was to pull it out. Also by playing a little bit, i saw there was no magic in its construction at all. In fact if this breaks, i would go out and buy a replacement truss rod. I dont know,tho, if there are only one or many types of truss rods/designs. This one was pretty simple and does its job. I was able to fit 11-54 beefy slinky's and still have a 100% straight neck. At first, when i fitted those strings, i could not just get the neck str8. After loosening the strings + lubricating, + tightening it worked very well. I think i could even fit 13's or baritone strings and this would be still working to a str8 neck. Mine is of this type :
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Post by ashcatlt on Sept 27, 2014 11:18:06 GMT -5
Well, I'm glad that worked out for you. Me, I found a used Cort bass that looks better, plays better, and sounds better than the Hamer copy that I've always hated for like $80, so... A couple quick swipes with the files and the big strings went on with just a couple tweaks at the bridge. There's a bit of buzz on the low B, so could probably be dialed in a bit better, but I'm pretty happy with it.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 27, 2014 11:45:42 GMT -5
Well, I'm glad that worked out for you. Me, I found a used Cort bass that looks better, plays better, and sounds better than the Hamer copy that I've always hated for like $80, so... A couple quick swipes with the files and the big strings went on with just a couple tweaks at the bridge. There's a bit of buzz on the low B, so could probably be dialed in a bit better, but I'm pretty happy with it. happy NGD man!, as a side note, if you allow me an advice, especially since this is used, next time you change strings, unlock the truss-rod's nut and lubricate it. Then every time you need to adjust relief/back-bow, always loosen up the strings and do the adjustments. Then re-tune. I know its a PITA, but might save your axe.
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