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Post by 1150lefty on May 24, 2015 1:35:14 GMT -5
I'm trying to connect my Fender G-DEC to both of my 4ohm cabinets by way of a switched 1/4" jack, defeating the stock 10" speaker. The jack works as it should to my two 16ohm EMI 12" speakers. I am still trying to keep an 8ohm load, as I still haven't got a definite answer if the amp is stable at 4ohms. I wired another jack onto the speaker terminals of my 4ohm open-backed cabinet so I could run a 1/4" cable to my 4ohm closed-backed cabinet and maybe mount the jack permanently in the future. I tried switching tip and ring to get a series circuit, but my meter keeps reading ~2ohms. My brain hurts and the only thing I can think of that I haven't done is switch the start and finish points on the speakers(I already tried in the open-backed) in both cabinets, but I can't see how that matters when the speakers will still be parallel inside the cabinets. In essence, my goal is a series/parallel configuration, or two 4ohm cabinets in series = 8ohms. What am I doing wrong?
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Post by ashcatlt on May 24, 2015 16:44:57 GMT -5
Is this a TRS jack, or did you actually swap the tip and sleeve? Either way, that ain't gonna work.
You need the tip of the input jack (from the amp) connected to one of the speaker terminals, the other speaker terminal to the tip of the output (to the other cabinet) jack, and the sleeve of the output goes to the sleeve of the input. Use a switched jack for the output and jumper the two switched lugs to each other so that this cabinet will work on its own when the other is disconnected.
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Post by 1150lefty on May 24, 2015 20:05:26 GMT -5
THAT is what I was trying to wrap my brain around going through all the scenarios. I am thinking of making an A/B/Y box and adding a series switch. Somehow. Thanks!
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Post by ashcatlt on May 25, 2015 12:18:27 GMT -5
I have to say I don't love the idea of a "switch box" for this. It is definitely not the kind of thing you'd want to do in the heat of the moment, or even really with the amp on. If nothing else, there very possibly could be a brief moment while switching where either the amp output is left open or is shorted. Depending on the amp, one or both of those situations could cause real damage, especially if happens very suddenly while it's trying to amplify something.
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Post by 1150lefty on May 26, 2015 20:52:00 GMT -5
Yeah, I haven't figured out a "fool-proof" way of doing it. I think I'll just wire the jack and be done - less trouble. Less scary! I think I'll just leave the box for the input sides of the amps.
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Post by 1150lefty on May 28, 2015 23:01:39 GMT -5
I hate to be a quitter, but I think I'm gonna abort this mission. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I followed the steps to the letter, reversed the polarity, backward/forward, would have done it sideways if I thought it would work, the only thing I didn't do is use a switch jack. I get ~3ohms with the 2nd cabinet and it counts down to zero without the 2nd cabinet...I'm guessing that's infinite "no, you dummy?"
It's either I go forward and take the 2nd cabinet (closed back) apart and rewire it until it works (series/pallel without the 1/4" jacks), or put the EMI's back in the open backed cabinet and dedicate them to the G-DEC (8ohms - ta-da!), and either take the 2 Celestions that are in the open back and put them in the 4x12 or build a closed back Twin/Showman for them, like I've been itching to do. I can't believe speakers are kicking my butt!
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Post by ashcatlt on May 28, 2015 23:47:04 GMT -5
If you post an accurate diagram of what you've wired (not necessarily what you think you've wired ), or decent photos, we should be able to sort it out. It's really not that tough. I'd post a pic, but I've only today resurrected my computer (again), and haven't yet installed Corel. It'll probably do you more good if you draw it anyway, though.
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Post by 1150lefty on May 29, 2015 14:58:37 GMT -5
Photos - I can do that! I already tore it apart and wired it back the way it was, but I'm sure if I do it again it'll start working correctly. Had a call at work that went that way yesterday - still don't know what happened; rewired everything just to be sure - nope, connected a known-working device - okay, and allofasudden the original device started working again. Blah!
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