carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jun 17, 2015 18:43:45 GMT -5
Please forgive any inadvertent faux pas in making my first newbie posting here - Hopefully I have managed to avoid any major etiquette blunders! To the point> Underway with a first time self-build strat, after extensive background reading here and elsewhere I am struggling to decide what wiring configuration to opt for, so thought perhaps the best thing is to ask for advice/suggestions from the extensive collective wisdom here gathered! Equipment - SSS ->> Dimarzio all round: Neck - Area 58, Middle - Area 61, Bridge - Injector I'd like to avoid deviating from the standard strat layout, so no mini switches/toggles etc - but am open to blender/push/pull type options etc - in fact I have a blender pot that I originally intended to install in what may now be considered the standard layout, although I am now having second thoughts... With some concern with the potential imbalance in output (and tonal character) between the 'Injector' Bridge Pup and the 2 Area Pups, but also with the idea of separate volume control layout being my ideal, my thought was to use a standard 5-way switch for the normal 5 strat pup combos, but to wire for 2 volumes (Vol 1 -Middle/Neck Vol 2 - Bridge) and to use the 3rd pot for a tone on bridge only (instead of a global tone as seems to be the more typical way to go in this configuration). This said, I have not been able to find a wiring setup in this configuration, which leads to the obvious suspicion that it is either 'inadvisable' for some reason or just plain undoable! In the process I have encountered many of the more complicated options with series/parallel - in/out-of phase - switching etc, which got me to wondering about possibly exploiting the 'stacked' nature of these 4 conductor Dimarzio Pups, and/or still going with the 2 volume idea but using the blender in the 3rd pot position.... Phew! Well, I hope I haven't presented the appearance of a complete muppet with my questions/ramblings, and with any luck have made some kind of sense! Of course ANY advice/direction will be greatly appreciated, and in any case thank you very much for your time and consideration of this newbie's difficulties/confusion Carter
|
|
|
Post by newey on Jun 17, 2015 21:07:57 GMT -5
Carter- Hello and Welcome to G-Nutz2! No fauxs pas at all. We have tons of Strat schemes in the Schematics section. I pulled a pair for your reference, both courtesy of JohnH. JohnH has contributed any number of Strat schemes, but these two have some of the elements you mentioned. The "SN" scheme offers some series wiring options, and also features a blend pot: JohnH's Strat SN (based on ChrisK's "S-None"JohnH has the goods for the 2 volume controls you want. His scheme uses a dual-gang pot for the tone control, so that it can work as a "master" tone but can be wired individually, as on a Les Paul. If you only want a tone for the bridge pup, the dual-gang pot can be eliminated. JohnH's Strat With 2 VolumesI don't know whether you already reviewed these threads, but they can serve as a starting point for discussions at the very least, and perhaps some features of each scheme can be borrowed to create your ideal "wish list". JohnH's "SN" thread also links back to ChrisK's original "S-None" scheme, which just plain makes for good reading, whether you like the scheme or not. The idea is to mimic the operation of Fender's fancy "S-1" switch using a regular P/P, and providing a number of new sounds with just one added switch, similar to the American Deluxe Strats.
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jun 22, 2015 14:08:37 GMT -5
newey - many thanks for your help!
here is where I think I'm up to, borrowing liberally from much of the material you pointed towards:
-> Schaller Megaswitch E
-> Volume 1 (Neck/Middle) using Push/Push switch (in place of the Fender S1 switch) to provide essentially the same range found in the Am Deluxe Strat
-> Volume 2 (Bridge) using Push/Push switch to provide phasing of the Bridge Pup
-> Tone - I'm unsure whether to go for the dual gang option to provide tone for Neck/Middle and separately Bridge (how does that work? Concentric Knobs?) or just a single tone for the Bridge....
Planning to use treble bleeds for each Volume Pot, but wondering whether to use 250k or 500k pots...
Any thoughts/issues? Personally not sure exactly how this will alter the wiring on the schemes mentioned...
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jun 22, 2015 16:30:20 GMT -5
Hi Carter,
Your list above shows some useful thinking about 'design intent', but it implies a mixture of three different ideas that dont go together in one wiring design.
The Megaswitch E is a special 5 way designed to get B+N in position 3 instead of M. Its use in combination with other switching tricks is limited.
The two designs of mine that newey posted both use a standard 5-way, using the second switch half in different ways to extend the functions. So they dont work in a combined design ie, to get almost AmDeluxe options with two volumes using only simple switches. Something like that would be a more complex design. But the 2-volume 'Plus' scheme does some of it.
Your first intent in your first post ie dual volumes plus a tone for the bridge is easily done. See the 2-volume link above, 'basic' design. If you only want bridge to have tone control, just peel off the top part of the dual tone pot.
As to pot values, best to research what DiMarzio recommends for your pickups, Im not sure. Without knowing better, my guess now would be all 500k log with 150k and 1nF for the treble bleeds.
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jun 22, 2015 18:07:45 GMT -5
Hi JohnH, many thanks for joining in! Not at all surprised to hear I'm off track! My main source for the Schaller Megaswitch idea was an old post by chrisk here: 3 Single Coils and The "S-None Switch"...all of which sounded appealing, especially after I had been considering using a Fender S1 switch in Volume Pot 1, only to stumble across some reports that the S1 has reliability issues over the longer term... Thanks again
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jun 23, 2015 15:29:21 GMT -5
Yes Id forgotten that Chris had the megaswitch E version of his idea. Its very clever and I like the combos you get in position 3. Only one volume though.
How important to you is to have two volume pots? and would they be mainly for setting two levels, or for mixing pickups together?
The last few guitars I've wired have started with a very simple scheme, then once Id heard the basic sounds, I decided how I wanted to extend them, eg brighter with coil cuts, phasing etc, or thicker through series wiring, or all.
For your pickups, they are single sized stacked humbuckers. the top coil is dominant and the lower coil which is in series, is for noise cancelling and doesn't add much to the signal. But cutting it out can allow the top coil to sound clearer/brighter, at he expense of normal single-coil hum. So if you were looking for another sound option from each pickup, that would be it, ie coil cut to the top coil. You need one switch pole to do this, so if you were looking to combine this function, a push/pull pot or toggle, with two poles, could do two of them at once. (But then you don't have the option of just doing one of them). A phase switch can be added to any pickup on any scheme.
One good and simple direction would be the Megaswitch E (with its B, B+M, B+N, N+M, N settings), one volume, two tones, and a push/pull to cut B and N to single coils, and maybe a phase switch.
The same coil cut and/or phase switches could be added to Chris' Megaswitch E version, or my SN version of his basic design
On the 2-volume designs, the plus version gives you some extra options, but is challenged to find another switch position for coil cuts, without a separate toggle (see the Plus^3). There are push-pull's available on dual gang pots though - not so easy to find.
This is my current favourite very simple Strat wiring: Strat SSM3 It has room to add coil cut and phase switches.
This is my favourite more complex Strat: Strat SP
I think your first decisions could be: Do you want to start with something simple and work up, or go complex straight away? and do you want two volume pots or is one enough?
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jun 24, 2015 18:32:11 GMT -5
This is fantastically helpful John thanks! And a substantial amount to digest! ..but most helpful to focus on the essential steps and decision making in the process. Your Strat SP in particular is challenging just to fully comprehend what exactly is going on...but as far as I do, I likey...Very Much! Certainly all this reading and researching is leading me to seriously question my original insistence on the 2 volumes plan..the versatility of some of these more advanced wiring schemes seem just too good to pass up for that one isolated reason (to answer your question it was "mainly for setting two levels" - rhythm to lead) - and yes, unfortunately I have a habit of diving straight in the deep end with projects, so no 'simple start' for me lol!! I think where I am very clear is that I want to stay with the traditional control layout, so no extra toggles/switches etc, but explore as wide a useful/practical tonal palette as might be feasibly had from using push switches in place of the normal 3 pots/knobs plus the addition of a 'super switch' of some kind. Specifically, the N+B and NxB combinations are a must I think, which must inevitably mean a series/parallel switch. The additional Phasing/Fading options introduced by your SP scheme appear to be the icing on a very nice cake... ..bringing me back to my particular set of pups - just as you observed, these Dimarzios are essentially humbuckers albeit in the single format, so are all 4 conductor, and I am certainly in the dark with how this would best be handled in your SP scheme for instance (which if not already obvious, is appealing to me most at this point). A liberal sprinkling of advice/direction there would I'm sure be essential if I am to successfully realise this unusual scheme Regards as always
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jun 24, 2015 19:34:58 GMT -5
If you like the SP options, then with your pickups, the basic wiring would be exactly the same after checking wire colours. That would imply each pair of wires that link the two coils of each pickup being joined to each other, and then floating, as per a normal humbucker. That will offer the full functionality of this design, fully humcancelling for each setting.
Then, consider a further p/p switch on the fade pot, whuch currently does not show one. This can be used to take two of these joined wire pairs and shunt each one down to its respective ground side (ie, to the pup black wires in the diagram, which is not always actually ground, and i think would be a green wire for DiMarzios). This could give single coil action for N and B, and brighten the tone of all settings.
Even though there is only one volume, there are still a number of ways to set a quick volume change by changing to a series setting.
I reckon that could be a winner, and we can have some confidence in the basic scheme since several different people have now built it.
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jun 25, 2015 18:51:30 GMT -5
The 3rd switch for splitting the N/B coils was going to be my next question so... Decision made! Awesome! At last this project can move forward Some part sourcing required then... Switches:- As I understand it this scheme requires a Fender-type 'Super Switch' as opposed to Schaller's Megaswitches - they are relatively expensive here (UK) but I found this non-Fender branded one Axesrus Guitar Super Switch 5way - good enough? I happen to already have 1 push/push switch rated @ 250k (actually measuring at 235k on the meter), and wonder if one 250k switch would work for one of the pot switches (perhaps the coil split in the fade pot)? 500k for the other two push switches? Log or taper? Does the fade pot require to be a certain tolerance or specification? And then there's the caps, resistors, etc...I have one or two odd bits lying about - 2 Sprague Orange Drop Caps, one marked SBE715P400V 473J 1014, the other marked SBE715P600V 333J 1051; one pre-wired (in parallel) 150k resistor and .001uF cap for treble bleed circuit...Possibly one or two others lying around..
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jun 25, 2015 19:34:18 GMT -5
All seems good.
The superswitch looks ok to me, though I havnt tried them
Your 250k pot is ideal for the fade control provided it is log taper. The others need to be 500 k log. None of them are very critical for close tolerance. But make sure they all work with the knobs that you will use.
It also looks like you have the 150k and 1nF for the treble bleed. You have a 47nF cap (labelled 473J). That cap adds the enhanced action in series mode. The other tone cap is the main treblw cut cap and its a personal choice. Seems like you have a 33nF which is fine. Petsonally I like a bit smaller. It does nothing until you turn down to about 5 on the tone pot.
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jun 25, 2015 20:47:56 GMT -5
Sounding great - can't wait to get this project moved on now, though a little more patience required while waiting for final parts...couldn't resist stringing the beast up for the first time with it's gotoh/wilkinson trem... couple of photos while we wait - decided to get the pickups, the one switched pot and 2 other standard pots kicking about plus a random switch/tip into the pick guard to get an idea of how it will look - all a bit messy at the moment with random screws etc, but at least enough to get a rough idea many thanks once again for so generously sharing your time and wisdom
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 13, 2015 15:34:50 GMT -5
Some (considerable) time later...... Looks like I might have finally collected the remaining necessary parts to progress this project - have now assembled the pickguard as far as confidence permits thus far - being a complete novice with next to no experience following wiring diags I am somewhat unsure how to decipher your SP diagram John! Specifically the superswitch orientation in addition to the orientation of the vertical pole parts of Switch 2 & 3...so I have taken the liberty of attaching a few pics of my loaded pickguard in hopes this may help with clarifying things - Hopefully! Decision needs to be made re: capacitors available of course..? Anything missing? Any major issues thus far?
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 13, 2015 16:21:17 GMT -5
Seems fine so far. For the superswitch, it didnt matter which way round you mounted it so long as it fits physically. The SP diagram is not quite as literal a layout as some of the other diagrams, ie it is a bit more 'diagrammatic', with all parts shown in line. But the end shown nearest the pickups is the end nearest the pickups in reality. For the pot/switches the switch lugs nearest the pot are those nearest in reality, though the diagram has the switch shown on the side instead of the back to make the diagrsm clearer.
The caps look fine too. I see two styles for the 22nF. I doubt theres any audible difference. Chose based on artistic preference!
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 15, 2015 4:53:43 GMT -5
Thanks John
Just realised I hadn't given any further thought to the 3rd switch arrangement for splitting the coils on N & B and of course this isn't part of your original SP scheme. What am I looking at to add this into your overall scheme?
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 15, 2015 6:32:43 GMT -5
There is an hss version which can split a humbucker. Strat SP hssIt only uses half of a switch, so it could split another pickup too. Its designed to select the appropriate hb coil for humcancelling what it combines with, either south or north. But if you were splitting a stacked humbucker, you probably want to always split to the top coil since it has the tone.
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 15, 2015 17:16:51 GMT -5
Aha! Right, got you, although this is clearly a tad more complicated again (as if I hadn't already jumped in the deep end lol!)...
...Let's see if I've got this straight - the 2 wires that are joined and shrink-heated off together on these stacked pups I will need to separate, identify which wire runs to which coil, seal off the lower coil wire again, and then run the wire to/from the uppermost coil into the 3rd switch just as shown for the bridge h'bucker in the Strat SP hss diag, and then do the same for the neck stacked pup in my setup??
Assuming I'm following along correctly, which lug on Switch 3 should the split coil from the Neck be wired to? The same one as the Bridge?!
Also, will the Neck pup wiring connections to the Superswitch also require to be altered from those shown on your diagram?
Otherwise, follow along with the rest of the Strat SP hss diag just as shown?
Referencing your earlier post re: orientation of superswitch, I am reading your SP HSS diag such that the superswitch is to be wired as if it was 'in line' and positioned immediately after the pups - in other words, exactly as depicted in the diag - and to give NO consideration for actual geographical positioning within the pickguard in the 'real world'..??
Hoping I'm making some kind of sense!
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 15, 2015 18:31:28 GMT -5
In the meantime, I had a quick look on the Dimarzio site for info on wire colours etc, and came up with this link: Dimarzio Virtual Area Pups
Interesting to note they advise against any setup using these pups in parallel mode : "Because of the way these models are constructed, parallel (dual sound) wiring is not a useful option and is not recommended."
|
|
|
Post by newey on Jul 15, 2015 19:49:46 GMT -5
Because only one coil is really sensing the strings, the "stock" series wiring would be preferred.
Almost! Except that both middle wires go to the center lug of SW3. So, you don't "seal off" the other wire, it has to stay connected to the upper coil wire so that the two coils are connected, in series, when SW3 is not pulled up. Both get connected to the center lug on one side of the P/P switch; the other pickup you wish to split connects to the opposite middle lug. Also, extend the black wire across to contact both the upper P/P lugs.
Now, you need to work out with wires are for which coils. Both pickups will have to split to the upper-most coil, since the lower coil doesn't really sense the strings. JohnH's SP HSS diagram shows the bridge HB being grounded when the P/P is pulled up; depending upon which coil is which, you may instead need to connect the P/P to the "hot" output so that you get the topmost coils for both. Be advised that cutting the coils to both top coils (your only realistic choice with these pickups) means that the combination of both pickups, in split mode, will not be hum-cancelling. No way around that, given the constraints of these pickups.
No, only the center wires are involved in the coil splitting, and those aren't wired to the 5-way anyway.
Yes. However, I highly recommend you redraw the diagram to your exact scheme, just so we can be sure you're on track here. Also, the exercise of drawing it out will help your understanding of how it all fits together, moreso than just looking at a picture will do.
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 15, 2015 19:54:05 GMT -5
I think you could still base the wiring off the SP sss diagram, but have the splitting switch on the fade pot. For each pickup that you are splitting, use one side of this switch to connect the joined wire pair (black/white for dimarzio) to connect to that pickups own green wire. This will ensure it cuts to the top coils.
The hss diagram was cutting to different coils, which you dont want with stacked pickups.
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 16, 2015 5:04:40 GMT -5
Thanks guys - yes, in interim it had occurred to me that 'sealing off one of the wires' didn't make sense!
John, assuming I continue following the sss scheme overall, I'm still unclear how exactly the 3rd switch/coil split wiring would be made - for instance the wiring in the hss scheme to/from the pot on the 3rd switch is very different to the sss scheme...
...to narrow things down, am I on the right track with the following:
- following the wiring to switch 3 described/illustrated in the hss diag for the 'joined wire pair (black/white for dimarzio)' using each side of 'the middle lug' for each respective pickup to be split, and 'extending the black wire across to contact both the upper P/P lugs' as described by newey...
- meanwhile retaining the wiring to/from the (fader) POT (on switch 3) as illustrated in the sss diag???
- meanwhile wiring all 3 pups to the superswitch exactly as illustrated in the sss diag??
- in the sss diag am I right in thinking that the black wires running from the pups will in my case be the green wires running from the dimarzios?
..Basically, apart from following the described wiring to the 3rd switch for coil splitting, should the sss wiring then remain unchanged from that already illustrated in the diag?!!
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 16, 2015 6:32:03 GMT -5
Like this: hopefully you can wire it neater than that!
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 16, 2015 12:08:14 GMT -5
WOW!!! As they say, the proverbial picture is worth.... Major thanks for taking the time out of your day....as well as your patience of course!! I will do my utmost to justify it and report back as soon as I have hopefully wired things up reasonably neatly (for a total newbie!) - which could be a wee while mind you
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 25, 2015 13:37:49 GMT -5
Hi John Couple of quick questions while I get down to business - The Dimarzio pickup wire is incredibly fine/thin - 28 AWG?? - I only have 22 AWG hookup wire which is considerably thicker. In order to extend these black/white wires (the ones that came factory sealed together close to the pickup itself) from the pickups I am wondering if the 22 AWG will be OK, or if I should really get some of the same gauge wire to do the job properly. I am also having some difficulty stripping the pickup wire as even the outer sleeve is VERY thin (yet quite hard if that makes sense!) making it very tricky to strip back some of the sleeve without taking the wire away with it, and of course there is very little wire to play with since it is already VERY short and close to the pickup itself!! Again, is that a job that really needs to be done with a dedicated tool? Separately, a query about some detail on your wiring diag - on the top side of 'Switch 1' you have two sets of 3 terminals shown as wired together (as in the line for the wire passes through 3 terminals) and on 'Switch 2' the hookup wire running from the 47nF Cap is illustrated as passing through both of the 2 lower lugs on the switch - again is that intended to depict connection to both lugs? Again, many thanks
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 25, 2015 16:35:25 GMT -5
Hi Carter,
Wire thickness does not matter electrically in a guitar, so it's fine to use whatever is most convenient to you and which you think will give a better job.
On stripping wires, I tend not to try to do it by cutting at the sleeve with a blade(unless I'm doing heavy mains wire). Instead I do something for which I was smacked on the head in high-school technology class. I just touch a hot soldering tip either side of the wire that I want to strip. Then by pinching this point between finger and thumb nail, I can pull off the insulation leaving the wires. Then tin the wires with solder. But try it on some spare wire first.
On the diagrams, I try to be very careful not to show wires touching or going through lugs unless they really are to be connected. So solder 'em all up!
Good luck
John
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 29, 2015 8:28:21 GMT -5
Hi John
Thanks again. So finally I got all this wired up - quite an education I must say, in particular the last few connections when space to work was at a premium!
Initial testing before final installation into the guitar using some croc clips seemed positive, and post installation also promising. Initially I thought I'd pulled off some kind of miracle with a faultless first wiring job, unfortunately however there are a couple of issues, the major one being with the volume pot/control not working normally. The issue appears to be virtually no 'roll off/taper' on the pot - it will go from off at 0 to suddenly on at 1 with a starting volume level normally expected around 3 on the dial to more or less max volume at around actual 4-5 on the dial as it currently stands. Turning the Volume up from there appears to have very little effect on actual volume, it just saturates/distorts the sound. So there is virtually no taper - the Vol pot is not functioning normally.
When I was wiring up, I left the connection to the Volume pot for the jack lead to near the end (rookie mistake?!) which resulted in having very little room to work with, and although I was reasonably happy with the connection for the ground part, I remember thinking at the time that the live lead connection looked like it had connected more to the treble bleed cap/resistor wire, than the actual lug on the pot (again very limited space made it somewhat challenging to even see for sure!).
Question :- would that possibly cause the volume pot issue I am seeing?
In terms of treble bleed, I noticed that there certainly appears to be next to NO loss of treble as you turn down the Vol pot.
Other than all this, limited testing so far seems to produce the expected basic switching settings and I was impressed with how quiet the whole thing sounded, so apparently no obvious grounding issues. The Vol pot issue and time have limited extensive testing, but one other issue I noticed is apparently no audible difference/change when switching the 3rd pot, in my config the switch to split Neck & Bridge to single coil mode...
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 29, 2015 15:27:02 GMT -5
Congrats on getting it almost going.
With the volume pot, those symptoms sound a lot like it is a linear volume pot not a log one. These reduce much less turning down from 10, or, turn up much faster from zero. The treble bleed increases this effect, so with a normal log pot, it slows down the taper making it halfway to linear taper, which is quite nice. But with a linear volume pot it can make it too gradual from 10 and too steep from 0. Another possibility is that the treble bleed resistor is not the right value, by a large factor, or that the volume hot outer lug has gotten shorted to the middle lug.
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 29, 2015 16:25:18 GMT -5
Hi John Yes, the pot type itself was my first thought so I checked the original digital receipt on the website I got it here: Push/Push PotsAnother thought was that the pot was simply faulty...unlikely I guess! The resistor on the treble bleed came prewired as a cap/resistor set for exactly this purpose (originally an eBay purchase if I remember) already wired together and sold to me years ago! It's been lying around a long time, so I have no way of checking now I suppose. Perhaps I could just remove it from the circuit and see what happens... "the volume hot outer lug has gotten shorted to the middle lug." excuse my ignorance, but does the hot outer lug mean the lug left of middle? In any case, I suspect this is perhaps the most likely cause due to poor operator skills! Either way, it's going to be tricky to establish due to the crowded and tiny space to inspect/work in!! A couple of shots of my messy work!! -- You'll notice that I changed the caps last minute to smaller wax/paper types to help with the very limited real estate!
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 29, 2015 16:41:46 GMT -5
The pot seems like the right spec. Lots happening in that wiring! The treble bleed resistor appears to be brown green yellow brown? If so id interpret that as 150k, which is ok and would not cause this prob (i use 150k).
How about a multimeter test? Select one pickup turn all knobs to max and measure resistance across tip and barrel of a cord plugged into the guitar (or across the output jack) use a 200k ohms scale and it should read about the same as the pickup. Now turn the volume pot down and note the readings at 9, 8 etc down to 0. The resistance should rise to a max and then fall to 0 at 0 on the knob. What was that max reading? If the reading doesnt rise but just falls, then there may be a short.
Hot outer lug on vol pot, i mean the one that is not grounded.
|
|
|
Post by JohnH on Jul 29, 2015 16:49:54 GMT -5
A small tip for the future: those pots have a handy lug on the top of the switch case which is a much easier place to solder grounds .
|
|
carter
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
|
Post by carter on Jul 29, 2015 17:12:26 GMT -5
Hi John Cool, yes that's right re:colour code on resistor.. OK, I'll do the meter test and report back... ..OH, and cheers for the tip - need all the help I can get if that wasn't obvious already
|
|