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Post by sumgai on Mar 11, 2017 12:27:23 GMT -5
newey,
I think you need to look more closely at that p/p selecting which coil to negate..... as things stand right now, the series-connection goes either directly to Hot (good) or to ground thru the tone cap. In effect, you've created a spin-a-split for that position. Easy to fix, I'll not say anything more.
Otherwise, it all looks good from my perspective.
As to the comment about p/p's being a PITA, I'll go along with that. But they exist in the first place because some players love 'em, and wouldn't be caught dead using a guitar without a full complement of 'em on board. To each their own, right?
dink,
Lemme emphasize just a bit that newey's diagram, based on my ideas, is only a starting point - you can change things around in a whatever way suits your tastes/needs/wants/etc. But before you do that, if you're going to make changes, lemme also suggest that you capture the diagram to your computer, edit it to show what you want instead, and post that new version back to us for review. Like I said before (not in this thread), modifications for any reason are better dealt with in the Design part of the adventure than in the Execution part. IOW, unsoldering tiny wires and components isn't nearly as much fun in real life as it sounds like in the advertisements.
HTH
sumgai
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dink
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Post by dink on Mar 11, 2017 15:42:01 GMT -5
Man Man I'm down with whatever just so Long as I don't have 50 switches on the guitar
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Post by JohnH on Mar 11, 2017 16:16:04 GMT -5
One problem I see is that the tone pots are all hard-wired to the volume pot, so they all act all the time. Better to wire them back behind the pickup on/off/on switches, ie to the lugs on the on/off/on's that connect the pickup black, white and green hot wires. That way, when a pickup is off, its tone control is out of circuit.
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dink
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Post by dink on Mar 11, 2017 16:46:01 GMT -5
Thank you to everyone for the help I appreciate every thing and input that y'all help me with Time to drill some holes thank you so much again
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Post by newey on Mar 11, 2017 16:49:35 GMT -5
sg's right, the coil cut red wires for each pup need to go to the Vol. "hot", not to the tone wiper. JohnH's suggestion is also a good one, so I'll redo the diagram to reflect that as well.
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Post by JohnH on Mar 11, 2017 18:10:31 GMT -5
sg's right, the coil cut red wires for each pup need to go to the Vol. "hot", not to the tone wiper. JohnH's suggestion is also a good one, so I'll redo the diagram to reflect that as well. Coil cuts to hot need to be fully behind the point where pickups are switched off on the on/off/on or else coil-cutting also forces them on.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 11, 2017 22:40:24 GMT -5
My apologies to all. Real life kept me busy and probably will continue to do so for a while. I was ready to draw up a diagram with the original plan. I am very glad I wasted no time on that before life took over. Two pages in and this is looking like a massive clusterf*** Man Man I'm down with whatever just so Long as I don't have 50 switches on the guitar Your original plan was to have NINE switches, not including the push-pulls to select tone caps, TEN if we include the 5-way selector. Why on earth would you want to use a blade on a Dean ML? Its stock selector is a Gibson 3-way. Add a second and you can easily access any one, any pair, or all three pickups. No messed up maps by adding an external mini-toggle to a blade. No need for a very difficult body modification to accommodate the Squier 5-way. But ultimately, the blame falls on me. I asked the wrong question. I asked what you were planning to use instead of asking what guitar you were starting with. At the present time, it looks like you could hit all the desired goals initially expressed with just SIX switches, including pickup selectors. Three on-off-on switches to select north-both-south, one for each of the three pickups. Two Gibson style pickup selectors. One spst kill switch. I might not be available again for several weeks and certainly won't have the time to do a diagram. But in my humble opinion, you shouldn't be racing to drill holes and get a wiring diagram until you think this out more thoroughly.
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dink
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Post by dink on Mar 13, 2017 3:37:43 GMT -5
I'm sorry. I'm done. Seems like I piss off someone everytime. Thanks to all for your time and help
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Post by newey on Mar 13, 2017 8:30:06 GMT -5
Well, I don't know if Dink will be back or not, but I promised a revised diagram and here it is. I believe it solves JohnH's issues as well as sgs. The hole for the existing 3-way Gibson-style toggle could be filled by the kill switch if a full-sized SPDT toggle is used instead of a mini-toggle.
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dink
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Post by dink on Mar 14, 2017 1:32:20 GMT -5
Thank you for the updated diagram and to everyone for all the help. This is what I'm going to go with Retread thank you for getting this all started and I'm sorry that I wasted your time but I do appreciate everything you did here for me. Sumgai John h and Newey thanks a ton also for everything. If I didn't name you I'm sorry but thank everyone else for everything
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Post by newey on Mar 14, 2017 4:00:04 GMT -5
That diagram still needs to be vetted before you start wiring. After all, I made 3 mistakes in the first one!
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dink
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Post by dink on Mar 14, 2017 14:10:32 GMT -5
Yes sir
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Post by newey on Mar 14, 2017 20:14:00 GMT -5
Diagram help in Aisle 3, Please!
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Post by JohnH on Mar 15, 2017 1:19:07 GMT -5
I think the new diagram will work, subject to a couple of things:
Being sure of those unusual wire colour variations on each PU, as raised earlier.
With knobs pushed in, the on-off-on toggles look like they'll work as expected. But when a push pull is pulled to get at the other single coil, it forces the pickup to that mode, overriding the humbucker option. Thats different to version 1 but maybe its ok. The alternative would have the joined pickup wires going to the on off on first, then to the pp switch to decide which coil is to be shunted.
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Post by reTrEaD on Mar 15, 2017 19:49:16 GMT -5
Newey, I agree with John's assessment. The way you have it will work but the switching won't be as intuitive as it could be.
Also, I think the kill would be quieter if you connected the pole of that switch to the hot of the output jack. Open circuit on the output tends to hum.
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Post by newey on Mar 16, 2017 6:17:24 GMT -5
Thanks, RT. Hopefully dink can make that change without difficulty. But, then, no need to shunt the pickups to ground?
As for the switching, I can rework that if dink desires it.
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dink
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Post by dink on Mar 18, 2017 18:55:09 GMT -5
Sorry been out of town at work.
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Post by dink on Mar 21, 2017 9:27:55 GMT -5
So how should I wire it up. I done got a little confused
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Post by newey on Mar 21, 2017 15:31:46 GMT -5
The second diagram will work, however, as JohnH pointed out, pulling the P/P pot will have the single coil setting override the HB setting. If that's not an issue for you, you're good to go. If you want to avoid that, I'll have to redraw the diagram again. Also, as RT suggested, swap the two red wires on the kill switch- that should be easy enough that you don't need a revised diagram for that.
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