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Post by dannyhill on Aug 2, 2016 14:04:51 GMT -5
Thanks all!
I certainly thought it was a bit of a discovery. Over the past 5 years trawlling Ebay I have never seen their like before so I did indeed think they might be of interest to some. Let the crazy wiring schemes comence!
Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Jul 31, 2016 13:31:04 GMT -5
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Post by dannyhill on Jul 30, 2016 16:27:38 GMT -5
Hi,
The holes for mounting with screws are slightly further apart than those for DPDT or DP3T. They also have pcb mount lugs and not the fatter ones with a hole for easier soldering.
D
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Post by dannyhill on Jul 30, 2016 14:43:36 GMT -5
Hi Newey! Good to hear from you after so long. You are of course quite right, it should be like this: Better? D
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Post by dannyhill on Jul 29, 2016 17:14:25 GMT -5
Hi y'all, Been a longtime since I was on here-Hope you are all well. I have made the cardinal sin of buying guitars faster than I can mod them, hence I have been quiet for a few years, plus I now have two kids :-) I recently came across a 2P4T slider switch which maybe some of you do not know about? I picked up a few on Ebay as I figured I could use one of these instead of two 2PDTs for series, pole coil, stud coil and parallel for humbucker switching. How does the below look? I think I have at least one hanging hot, but otherwise? Cheers, Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Jun 23, 2015 3:54:05 GMT -5
OK, so I took the neck off last night and tidied the pocket and then bolted the neck on again with the side butted up against the upper wall to change the angle of the strings coming from the fretboard a little. What between that and shifting the tremolo plate as much as the screw holes and loosened screws would allow me, the string alignment is a lot better. The strings from the holes still don't quite run parallel to the screws on the plate, so it needs another 5-10º clockwise rotation, maybe the AVRI plate I have ordered will allow me to do that without plugging and re-drilling the holes slightly away from where they are just now. :-)
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Post by dannyhill on Jun 21, 2015 16:17:08 GMT -5
Hi, Bought this Squier VM Jazzmaster end of last week, but something doesn't seem right with the alignment of 2 or more of its components. The strings are well placed on the neck and although the neck pickup is a little skewed (max 1mm) when I overlay a piece of paper over them and just focus on the tremolo, bridge and neck something still does not seem right. Take a look at the photos (my straight edge spirit level is runs along the centre of the neck), I think the tremolo plate is skewed (BTW the strap peg is not quite centred between the 3rd and 4th string hole). I first noticed something not right when the 1st string seemed to be very much off axis with its pole on the bridge pickup, the other strings less so. Any ideas? I'm thinking rotate the tremolo plate a little clockwise and move the whole thing up 1-2mm? Don't think it is the neck not parallel to the pocket walls. Thanks in advance, Daniel
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 7, 2014 9:28:34 GMT -5
Many thanks Cynical 1!
I will give her a road test this w/end when the wife is out! With the current action there is no buzzing nor fretting out all the way up the neck, granted I am using a light pick and not strumming hard. I have never played above 11s except on my acoustic, but I'm thinking that on a gretsch type 11s are absolute minimums, right? No problem with raising the bridge to raise the action, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't have to lower it anymore by say putting on lighter strings (not heavier, no way!) as I think more sanding would make the bridge too unstable mechanically. Superb! Thanks brother!
Now to straighten the bigsby.
Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Nov 7, 2014 5:42:47 GMT -5
Hi guys,
Well finally the roller bridge arrived and I spent last night and the night before working my way through sheets of glass paper until the action is 2mm and 1.5mm at the 12th for the 6th and 1st strings respectively. Well, ok I had to tighten the truss rod about a 1/4 turn as well as there was too much gap. What do you think? Is is it a keeper? Bear in mind that this guitar has some very fat strings on, 13s? What will happen if I put on some 11s? Will the action be lower or higher (or the same) once I have adjusted the truss to get the same degree of relief? If it allows me lower, well great! If higher then we have a problem as the amount sanded from the bridge has left <2mm of hole depth to screw the post into already and I doubt I could drill much deeper before I come through the other side so maybe with time the posts will rip out of the wood? Let me know as I need to tell the store whether I'm staying with it or not (it is rare and will be very hard to find another) and now I see that the bigsby was not put on in line with the nut to bridge axis, so the drill would have to come out tonight which would mean definitely a 'no-return'. :-) Cheers,
Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 28, 2014 12:22:54 GMT -5
Hi Greekdude, Read the thread man! I said the nut was fine, it measured 0.15mm at the 1st fret with the 4th depressed for the 6th and 0.10 for the 1st. Clearance at 8th fret of 0.25mm when holding down first and last frets. No we are going to shave steel D
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 28, 2014 10:18:36 GMT -5
Well, I can do that tonight. Actually not plugged it in yet, but acoustically it is sweet. I'm no shredder either, but it would be nice to be able to get down to 2mm on low E at 12th and 1.5mm on high E at 12th. :-) D
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 28, 2014 8:47:52 GMT -5
Hi Cynical1,
The foam is there to protect the top from scratches but is some 0.5-1.0mm thick. Will that drop the action down by 2mm at the 12th fret? Some quick trigonometry would suggest that dropping the bridge down by 1mm would drop the height at the 12th fret down by just under 0.5mm. I too thought that perhaps the top had sunk/collapsed. With regards to height measuring I use a metal rule from top of fret to bottom of string, and with 0.5mm divisions I can measure to the nearest 0.25mm. Thanks,
Daniel
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 28, 2014 4:43:16 GMT -5
Come on GreekDude, not with that one again! Anyway here are some photos.In one you can see that if I lower the bridge I should be able to get a low action with little or no fret buzz. In the other you can see that actually the break angle is not too bad so the bridge can lower a little and I should still not enter the realm of 'slidey strings'. So, just awaiting the new bridge. BTW There is a little thin foam rectangle under the bridge, if I take that will the action drop dramatically or would the bridge still need shaving? Cheers, Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 27, 2014 11:04:04 GMT -5
This one has a similar neck joint with the strange gap between neck and top with it narrowing towards the end of the neck: The breakangle doesn't look huge here either. Mind you, my only other B7/B70 is on a wildkat which is much steeper (I had to jack the front of the Bigsby up on washers so it wasn't at so acute).
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 27, 2014 9:56:30 GMT -5
Hi guys,
I should be getting a roller sometime this week/next week and I will put that on and shave accordingly, but I have to say that as it is the break angle is fairly gentle so if the bridge were to be lowered, we could be into 'Jaguar land', that would smack of a bad neck angle right? Anyway, I suspect this 'commission sale' is actually a B-stock they are trying to fob off on to me and I have pushed them into giving me a full refund (including my return costs) or if its fixable just with a lower bridge and break angle and intonation are ok then just a partial refund. I'll upload some photos later to see what you think of the break angle as is with >3mm action at the 12th. Cheers,
Daniel
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 25, 2014 19:44:56 GMT -5
Hi guys,
I checked the nut, height is fine. I then set the truss to get the right clearance at the 8th fret when holidng down at the first and last. OK. But with the floating broidge screwed all the way down I cannot get below 3.25mm action on the low W and similar on the high E. Is there something wrong with the guitar? Neck angle? Or should I be shaving the bottom of the floating bridge? Be shame to send her back, and they want me to pay for the postage, 40-50€! Cheers,
Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Oct 23, 2014 13:18:41 GMT -5
Hi guys, I've seen on some of these Peavey Rockingham's a gap between the end of the neck and the top of the guitar body, but mine seems' somewhat exagerated, in fact the bottom of the neck seems curved inwards. Is this a keeper? Is it just cosmetic? Or is it/will it be trouble? All opinions most welcome whilst I decide to keep it or not. These are no longer sold though and are hard to find second hand. Cheers, Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Aug 28, 2014 6:04:15 GMT -5
:-)
Why on earth did they use 100KOhm vol, 1MOhm concentric pots? 100KOhm lets through few highs, and the 1MOhm is pretty useless until it gets down to 2-3, virtually a step change in tone.
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Post by dannyhill on Aug 27, 2014 8:51:09 GMT -5
Bear in mind that on the other Longhorn Baritones, they have 2 volume and 2 tone pots for the 4k pickups.
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Post by dannyhill on Aug 27, 2014 7:14:36 GMT -5
Quite, so why has Dano used a 500k and a 500k and not a 250K and a 500K? To add more brightness than the 100k/1M setups?
D
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Post by dannyhill on Aug 27, 2014 2:44:26 GMT -5
Well, the positioning of the pickups should be the same across all reissues, I think. It is known for having a non-insignificant mid-range, hence the larger pots, to not lose too many highs and leave it muddy?
D
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Post by dannyhill on Aug 26, 2014 7:37:01 GMT -5
Hi,
Some Longhorn baritones come with two concentric pots (100kOhm volume and 1MOhm tone I'm guessing, for a 0.1uF cap), one for each pickup, whilst others, like mine come with a 3 way and one 500KOHm linear pot for tone and one 500KOhm log pot for tone (0.1uF cap). The wiring is evidently different for both, something like a Fender Jazz bass, but in series for the no switch version, and a standard two pup in series with 1SP3T for the second.
But are the pickups different so that they have the same 'voice' for different wiring/pot values? Or are the pickups the same for a different voice for the guitar? Personally I would have thought a 250KOhm volume with a 500KOhm tone would be closer to the 100KOhm/1MOhm concentrics!?! In my 12 string, with its 1MOhm tone pot it was virtually an on-off tone switch so I swapped it for a 250/500 concentric pot with a treble bleed, much more useable tone range now.
Anybody? Cheers,
Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Jun 11, 2014 9:42:23 GMT -5
Ahhh!
I used some micro-mesh in soapy water to smooth the neck and a lot of the poly or whatever it is just rubbed off, maybe I didn't leave it on long enough or maybe 'that spot' is not taking up the spray. Maybe it needs a deep clean with naptha and leaving in the sun? Anyway for now I went back and brushed on some yellow tinted laquer and also on the dodgy parts of the headstock. I will see how it is when I come back from my trip in a couple of days......
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Post by dannyhill on Jun 10, 2014 8:48:05 GMT -5
I'm letting the Jag laquer paint dry more until tonight. Back to the Danelectro. I rubbed off the parts that appeared quite yellow and then re-applied with a less yellow mix. I then applied the poly spray liberally from a cloth or Q tip to the head stock and entire neck, that has provided a more even colouring - although it may have left the appearance blotchy looking to the camera but not to someone 50cm away. Before doing so I used both bleach and contact cleaner to try to remove the dark areas (edges of headstock and little spot on back of neck). I also used some acetone to remove thick layers of laquer in spots on the headstock, that unfortunately left those areas a bit too light again, which I wouldn't mind still working on to make more yellow. It may well be they are lighter because I sanded away more layers of wood in those spots so they are lower/scooped? Incidentally I used a mix of micro-mesh and 150 sandpaper before I realised that 150 micro-mesah was not the equivalent of the sandpaper 150 but actually about 400 it also probably contains silicone. Anyway, here are the photos, all of the areas needs a fine rubdown to give a satin feel and even out the thickness/yellowing or colouring - tonight. Looks better than before, so if I go steady I should get it even better, the headstock needs the most touching up. In the last photo you get the best view of the grain pattern which is what is coming through in certain places, especially on the headstock. All suggestions welcome, Danny
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Post by dannyhill on Jun 9, 2014 8:08:18 GMT -5
newey - I believe its a satin or slightly gloss finish on both front back. Its neither gloss/sticky like my V6 stat (gloss) nor LPs, nor is it Satin/Matt like my Squier VM Telecaster II (in fact most of my necks of my Fender type guitars are rubbed down to a satin level with some wet/dry or wire wool or green scouring pad). I mean what is the difference between satin and matt? Anyway, I found some polyurethane spray down in the storeroom which is labelled as a colourless wood protector for outdoor furniture, it actually has a slightly golden colour which is bang on with the finsh on the neck/headstock. However, before I found it, last weekend I bought some oil paints and mixed a little golden (light) ochre from the selection into some clear nail laquer and that went on beautifully on the neck except for one 2mm diameter spot one inch down from where it meets the headstock on the 'centre line' of the neck. I also used it on the headstock which didn't go on such a good match. The lower right bit didn't seem right and on wiping some excess yellow off it ended up too light. For the upper left (larger) bit, it went on too yellow. It might well be that I did that headstock later and forgot to shake the bottle for an even suspension and so ended up painting on a layer with more ochre oil to laquer. Anyway, I may wipe off with acetone and retry with the spray I found (spray on a cloth and wipe cloth over the wood). That 2mm diameter spot and around the edge of the headstock parts both have that reddish almost herringbone pattern so perhaps a Q tip with bleach or contact cleaner and then poly spray would be good there? Or perhaps a rub down first? Photos on the way. BTW I parallel I thought now I had base coloured (water paint blend) and drop filled with crazy glue a deep screw driver scratch (must learn to fix things with a towel on the body) on the upper flat surface of the body of a tele I would try the same with my Squier Jag which came with finish imperfections, after close inspections seemed they left dots and a couple of narrow streaks of the base colour before spraying on the poly so you see the black undercoat as dots here and there and two small fine streaks on the top of the body. Hmmm, what can I say? Well, I forget to learn a valuable lesson from fixing two surface imperfections on my Black Beauty copy and a finish crack from dropping a screwdriver from a sleepy hand (still hadn't learnt to put a towel down). You see my water colour black was too light, more a dark grey, so I resolved to use a permanent marker, only the surface imperfections were so shallow that by the time I finally managed to add the crazy glue without either (a) the ink dissolving up into the glue leaving a lighter/browner under colour or (b) scratching the marker colour through the glue exposing the wood or (c)remove too much glue when scraping excess with the a razor or wet/dry sanding, and having to scrape/polish out/acetone wipe the each time to start again I had rubbed down to the wood in places surrounding the original minor imperfections. Ye gads, from mild irritations to minor disasters! Something similar occurred at my cracked finish (2mm diamater) where after first widening it slightly to remove 'crazed finish' instead of the marker pen I tried a crazy glue and cartridge pen black ink suspension drop fill solution which was more trouble than the marker pen followed by drop fill crazy glue solution and given the curvature of the body just under the bridge humbucker it also ended up with larger areas surrounding the original area rubbed down to the wood. The one thing saving my sanity at this time was that however good/bad the fix ended up, it would be hidden by a pickguard which I had purchased (the model came without one). Anyway, what saved all this was clear nail laquer over the black marker pen. The laquer always went on thinner than the crazy glue and was easier than to flatten/profile into the surrounding body, partially because if go slowly you can use an acetone soaked cloth, wipe, Q tip to wipe 'layers' of the laquer away without affecting the surrounding areas, wet/dry sanding can just be too risky on thin finishes or curved parts of the body! So back to the Jag, did I learn from the Black Beauty experience? Did I fcuk!?! I didn't have a permanent white marker (do they exist), the water colours white was too creamy (the jag is Olympic White) and the tippex pen white was 'too white' so I decided to go with the oil paint white which seems a very close match. One week later of frustration of dab, cover with crazy glue and wet/dry too close that the oil paint is exposed and wiped away, followed by use a pin to gouge the spot (<1mm diameter black spots in finish) or streaks deeper and then retry only for the same to occur as the oil paint was too thick or too translucent once thinned with contact cleaner with all these imperfections on curvy parts of the body, I now had small patches of wood showing. Ye gads, from virtually invisible irritations to complete disasters! So now, I start to use my brain (where had it been all this time? Too much in a hurry and over confidence?) and decided to add a thin layer of tippex over the very work areas, sand smooth followed by brushing on/cocktail stick on a top layer of white oil paint, thinned with contact cleaner. Hmm, this stuff never seems to dry! So THEN I finally read up on oil paints and find that they take anywhere between 5-14 days to dry! Agghhh! So now I try this again and this time the top layer consists of the thinned oil paint in nail laquer, and now we are in business! I can remove excess laquer with an acetone rub, but after I rubbed too much last night I found that nail varnish really needs a couple of days to go rock hard, so I will wipe carefully the excess tonight before I get the wet/dry clothes out. At the moment it looks like someone threw paint on it, but it must work out eventually right? I think the white top coat is still slightly too white, but then a thin layer of clear laquer with a small amout of yellow ochre could give it the warmth it needs to match perfectly, at least in artificial light. :-) Time, patience and experimentation right? Maybe make this a sticky? or should that be a tacky thread? :-)
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Post by dannyhill on May 14, 2014 4:32:40 GMT -5
I agree, the amount removed is just 1-2mm.
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Post by dannyhill on May 13, 2014 4:45:11 GMT -5
Hi John,
It could well be! I shouldn't have been so lazy and gone and bought me some naptha. I do actually have a can of contact cleaner! And of course their is plenty of sun here! Cheers,
Daniel
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Post by dannyhill on May 12, 2014 7:34:39 GMT -5
Hi HTC1,
Initially I sanded the burn area off months ago which later became a grey spot from the dirt and sweat, I removed that with WDE-40 and then sanded it recently. Thereafter at some point of the treatments mentioned above the area turned a darker colour than its surroundings, light brown compared to straw colour. This area is much larger than the original area given that the sanded area went beyond the original grey spot.
Not sure how a light poly would cover up a darker spot? I know I did try with some neat bleach product at one point. Maybe I should have diluted it a little so it would penetrate more? It was quite gloopy. I could try this again.
Thanks!
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Post by dannyhill on May 9, 2014 9:03:19 GMT -5
Hold on while I get a needle and some cotton to stitch my sides up with.
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Post by dannyhill on May 9, 2014 7:01:55 GMT -5
Nope, it was not this colour before I removed the grey bit and widened the area without laquer.
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