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Post by ux4484 on Apr 16, 2014 22:52:47 GMT -5
Heh... No, I'm charging $25 for a PIO cap and pre- cut/stripped cloth insulated wire
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 13, 2014 12:06:02 GMT -5
GD, I realize this guitar ain't about "pretty", but it just went from "carpenters dream" (flat as a board, and easy to screw) to full on "pig party". Finish sand that baby to a smooth contour at the least.
If you love it that much, I would consider a refinish. Then you could loose the guard and fill the screw holes, and tidy up the gaps you have around the pups.
It's black... You don't even have to get down to the wood, just past the cover coat.
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 7, 2014 23:19:23 GMT -5
So do I! It's actually from '03: it's Samick made-Gibson owned-MosicYo-sold Kramer Striker 522S. It's pointy, and actually quite nice after a cleaning, string change, setup, and wiring mod (changed it from split coil to S/P, boy does it BOOM now). It's a contradiction... Great hardware and pups (even a dual truss rod), but cheap cavity cover (not routed in), paint job (thick, but shows every scratch), and plastic strap pegs. The work I've done is probably worth more than the bass is, but it IS a player.
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 7, 2014 16:24:18 GMT -5
Oh, BTW... I'm working on the Bass cousin of that Kramer this week:
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 7, 2014 9:53:03 GMT -5
There's a beautiful pawn shop reverse jaguar bass at a local shop... 32" scale, great MM style pups. They can't sell it for the life of them. 20 frets and the bottom 5 are useless. If it was a Squier priced around $300, it would be gone... But anyone who's going to dish $800 will be expecting those last 5 frets.
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 7, 2014 8:17:37 GMT -5
Is that a current picture GD?
I had to chuckle at your 21 fret comment... Until a couple years ago... All my guitars had 21 frets...
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 7, 2014 7:04:54 GMT -5
Because you won't be happy with the results...
You could get away with it if it was just clearcoat and one surface (I did just the top of the Cortez Tele, it's nigh invisible and just THAT took me two weeks), but you'll be affecting 3 surfaces, and have the guard to trim as well (is it still there?). It's like trying to touch up the middle of your cars front fender, it'll drive you nuts every time you play. Now if you were to Eddie it up with striping tape and the like, you could get away with spot covering it, because it'll be so busy, who'll notice?
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 1, 2014 19:57:06 GMT -5
Ummm... Because I'm not just servicing my guitars (and I do flip them when I see a quick turn around). Most guitars I see are rarely serviced or poorly treated, the fret edges crammed with sweat and DNA. Frets are often discolored and oxidizing. I polish the frets first, the protectors let me clean right to the fret edge at the wood without making a scratch. I'm cleaning here, not trying to change the shape (though it does nicely remove the edge of flattening spots that happen regularly on acoustics and basses). I do go from side to side, lifting as I get to the edge to keep it even. It's fast, easy, and reliable. Then I dig in with the baby wipes to remove the sweat and DNA residue, once dry, it's fast fret or lemon oil (usually depends which is a closer reach). I see a lot of student guitars that parents drop off as they're paying for lessons and their kids are getting frustrated with what they think is a sub-par instrument (something the very stores they bought them at tell them, or "Their playing ability is beyond such a basic instrument"). These days as long as it's not a Wal-Mart acoustic or the like, a cleaning and set up takes care of it. Most of these folks started as computer customers, learned I tinker with guitars and asked if I would look at theirs. Keeps me busy and interested (though sometimes GAS can be a side effect). I do polish mine at every other string change (though I don't change them often).
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Post by ux4484 on Apr 1, 2014 8:55:38 GMT -5
I find it goes much faster with the fret protectors.
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 31, 2014 8:47:38 GMT -5
More enjoyable than watching Kurt play it (always felt like Kurt would smell like a homeless person, he sure looked like one).
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 31, 2014 8:43:14 GMT -5
I have a roll of thin clear plastic that I use to make fretboard protectors, I cut a slit in it with an exacto knife the size/width of the bottom fret, and it's good all the way up to the top (they look like old fashion razor blades). This lets me polish frets with 0000 or 0001 steel wool and keeps the fretboard scratch free. For real gummed up fretboards, I use unscented baby wipes to dig in on the fret edge, and follow up with fast fret or lemon oil (have yet to have any issues with formby'e lemon oil). The screws I would remove and clean with fine steel wool or a fine brass (or stainless) wire brush. You could make a guard for that as well (and tape it down with 3M blue tape), but if it can be removed, you should remove it to clean it.
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 23, 2014 15:49:23 GMT -5
Hey, that drummer looks like Charlie Watts' younger brother (plays like him too).
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 19, 2014 21:00:44 GMT -5
If I didn't know better, I'd think Line 6 was stalking our forums. Amplifi & Remote Seems like a swell idea. I like that it's not limited to a single use. With so many compact stereo systems and sound bars these days, here is something that is about the size of an old time subwoofer and could be a media hub for a man cave or music room. Having a mixing level for BT music and the aux line in is already more than most makers are doing. Designing it around music playback and creation is what's missing in most play along solutions and exactly what 4real was working towards with his home PA setup. This is a little cleaner and self contained. The remote app that grabs song metadata and dials up that guitar tone? Freaky, but after you think about it... Why hasn't it happened sooner. Seeing it's a closed unit (ported like a subwoofer for the guitar speaker), I have to ask... Why not for guitar, acoustic, AND bass like the Peavey Vypyr VIP 3? Seems like an app/database should be able to support it was well as the hardware. The on the fly metadata presets are both the most innovative and least important feature for me. What I like is the idea of an audio media center that could play music well (and loud) while mixing my playing with it convincingly with little effort (like my old Sansui reciever with the mic in with level control did) in a single stylish box... That just happens to with my phone. Sorry Android users... Only iOS for now. If I ever finish working on the basement, something of this ilk will be the audio hub.
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 19, 2014 20:23:51 GMT -5
I did eyeball those when they came out, ironically about the same time as the Fender Gretta which seemed the other end of the tabletop spectrum, and at $99 bucks on sale seemed a better fit, but I didn't bite on either. You may have seen 4real's posts on his PA setup for home to better control of his sound environs. I'm very happy with my mustang, but did end up with a Roland MicroCube as payment for some computer work. I don't love the rectifier amp setting, but the others and simple effects are great. I've had it now for 6 months and am still on the batteries I put in it when I got it (gets dragged out a couple times a month). While easier to carry than your Yamaha, is about the same weight. Once you put batteries in it, you'll find places to take it. I do like Yamaha equipment, the reliability and bang for buck is astounding, even on their entry level stuff. Of course you don't really realize this until you actually own some.
Oh... If you just got it, and are really serious about the 10, send it back and get the 10 (if you bought new).
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 19, 2014 17:34:26 GMT -5
Hey vf! I'd check and see if when it's connected if it shows up as a mic input tab under audio devices in device manager (you may have to enable it). If so, you can record with it directly into audacity if installed with the mp3 plugin can render mp3's directly. I've done this with my Mustang III, it's fast and easy for sound samples.
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 4, 2014 8:54:57 GMT -5
Not that model, but DBZ's have been showing up used in GC and pawn shops around me. The ones I've seen have been mostly acoustics and LP copies, none of which seemed even up to Epiphone quality. The acoustics-electrics I saw had very cheap and LARGE pre-amp tuner modules with heavy metal covers (one was bouncing around inside). The Royale is clearly something unique, but at $299-$699 on eBay, seems not to have found a price niche. The acoustics have needed a lot of work (nuts need to be recut, relief terribly off). Considering they've only been in biz for a few years, the acoustics looked like 20 year old touring veterens. Nice finishes, and big f'n headstock, but with the ones I've seen... Not much more.
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Post by ux4484 on Mar 2, 2014 1:23:33 GMT -5
^^^ "Tons o' Tone!" Runewalker would be proud! The distinction ux4484 makes about aquisitioners motivation seems fleeting in this discussion. eh??!
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 28, 2014 14:08:38 GMT -5
Many of the frets are flat on my Yamaha acoustic especially for the first four strings, but it doesn't affect the playability yet so I haven't messed with anything more then polishing them with 001 grade steel wool... And that's after nine years of continuous playing.
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 28, 2014 13:34:09 GMT -5
If it's not affecting your playing, don't worry about it. If it is, get thee to a luthier, It'll be faster, cheaper (in the long run ), and less heart wrenching than if you try to do it yourself.
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 28, 2014 11:50:40 GMT -5
Finally gave in as posted in the Bullet Tele thread to go with a comfortable cheap throwaway Squier Bullet Tele. But I saw another thing for anyone interested that was a close second: A Peavey Rockmaster, a little single pup Strat style axe with a headphone amp (clean and distortion modes), tuner, and headphone jack. This guitar is also basswood (though heavier than the bullet) has a decent clean sound through earbuds (distortion was overkill and muddy), and can be had for $79 from GC and MF. It's very playable, no sharp fret ends, but no real personality either, it's very quiet acoustically But consider this, in a bag gets you a playable throwaway with no accessories required... and it's a little '51-ish. The Bullet Tele feels much better in my hands, and has tons more personality plugged into an amp, but while not small, this Peavey is a good value travel guitar.
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 28, 2014 11:23:57 GMT -5
These are going fast at GC, they seem to be "grading" them, the ones with nicely dressed frets are firm at $129, and the ones with finger-slicer edges are $119. Wiggy, As they can be found online and a couple of stores for a few bucks less, CG will give you the difference +10% (total price) off. So it can be had walk-in for $108 for either. I think they figured out this snafu when I went in with that and a $10 coupon (for a survey) and walked out with a sunburst for $98 (yes, it's my travel guitar replacement). Very light, just a few ounces short of having neck dive. The nut is a cut above most squier nuts I've seen. It's gray, and very hard almost tusq-like. They seem to be cut a tad lightly (but that's better than too deeply). I just ran my string ends through it, filled it with some mechanical pencil lead, and the nut is a keeper. Tuners are just a black version of the ones on my '51, the main problem being they were almost all loose (at the insert, and on the knob screw). Small tweak to relief, and had to cut the saddle screw on the E string to allow for proper intonation (same as with the similar bridges from the '51 and the Blacktop Tele). As reported before, the HB is much hotter than the neck pup, though the neck pup really had a good Tele sound. A tweak of the neck higher, and the bridge lower helped, but when switching from n+b to the bridge, there is a significant volume jump. The neck is routed for a HB, and has conductive paint in the cavity (and the control cavity as well), the bridge does not. This stuff is "softer" than the standard Fender stuff, and reads a lower resistance just touching the stuff as compared to digging in with the leads on the Standard gunk. A couple of surprises: A bridge ground (something my Blacktop DIDN'T have), and a taped off lead to split the HB (3 wire, just like the '51's confirming my suspicion it's the same pup). As reported before, the neck is a rosewood capped version of the '51's with a satin finish. Very familiar and comfortable. This guitar is surprisingly loud acoustically (though most Tele's are), and even with the Basswood body (I don't know, it's even lighter than the '51 was) has much more sustain than the '51 ever did. I did run some copper tape on the pickguard around the neck pup and over the route channel (with a tab up from the cavity to complete it, it worked without requiring a screw to make the connection work like the Strat required). I also reversed the control plate (a clean route in the cavity allowed me to do do). Basswood (or maybe balsa???) is not pretty close-up in a sunburst (While smooth, and nicely sunburst, there are visible saw rips and fills in some places on every sunburst I saw). Very comfortable standing or sitting, and with my iRig (or Roland micro-cube), a good, solid, easy to play... Travel guitar that is no worries if it breaks. Pics next week.
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 24, 2014 14:49:55 GMT -5
GD, I did see the E string detune in the vid, but that's the most noticable tension change you could have of any string, it would be more subtle with the other strings, bends could be very cool. I was just curious if the Gai had played with it. I'm not looking to re-gear up anytime soon, but it's definitely interesting. Also interesting was the bodies I found on eBay were USA bodies with micro-tilt. Here's the link Gai: bit.ly/1mDpO2J
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 24, 2014 13:30:55 GMT -5
Like I don't Haunt enough forums already?
It's another form of GAS.
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 24, 2014 12:36:28 GMT -5
Well, I see GC/MF IS $1200, and 800 for restocks, but after restructuring my eBay search, I found some in the range you mentioned. I can also change tunings with the Mustang III & Digitech, but they are not all as convincing as the VG stuff (though I've been experimenting with some baritone settings that are very good), and they still require you to have the guitar tuned properly (IMO, not requiring that is the main attraction of the VG and Atares systems).
Have you ever played with the string tension on the alternative tunings to change the dynamics, and if so, does it carry over?
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 24, 2014 11:20:34 GMT -5
Gai,
Wouldn't using the GK-3 w/external controller allow you an open E tuning option that is still not available on the G-5?
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 24, 2014 10:26:36 GMT -5
There is some guy from Arizona selling a coupe of Roland bodies on eBay for $900 each. Can't tell which version (at least I can't).
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 23, 2014 12:45:27 GMT -5
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 22, 2014 12:09:51 GMT -5
As the pocket is unfinished, it shouldn't matter. On the setup... It think it might depend if you have one of those hangover the pickguard necks on your Strat now (common for MIM's). I've only swapped one or two necks, and they were both "in the pocket" necks with no hangover frets. There are more qualified folks here than me to help with that question. I've only in the last few years started tweaking and shimming necks, some may be required to get the right fit/action. That is one thing Fender is pretty good with out of the box, whether that's due to uniformity of parts, or good assemblers/quality control testing, I couldn't say. YMMV.
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 22, 2014 11:54:07 GMT -5
I really scoped the Roland after my Robot SG fiasco, and it's a Strat, so that's a plus. A cheaper alternative would be a Peavey AT-200 that can be had on eBay for under $300. Wait... Was that just more GAS?
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Post by ux4484 on Feb 22, 2014 11:26:23 GMT -5
It's possible, but you'll likely still have some noticeable delay from the sound card processing the audio, and even then, it will only be in audacity. I am not aware of a way to stock replace the windows audio driver with ASIO. Most ASIO drivers prefer a USB connection so they can recognize the device utilized to bypass the slower windows sound driver. The technology is licensed as such by steinburger who seem to take issue with generic drivers for free/donateware like audacity. You can compile a version of audacity to do what you want (google: audacity ASIO) and mess with your windows settings to get it to work, but honestly... a $9 Amazon 1/4" to USB adapter will do exactly what you want so much easier, can be used with or without the headphone amp, and work in ANY software you might want to use.
I've used my $5 cable to record spoken performances line out from a mixer and live monitored on the computer with hardly any discernible delay. It's simple, and a treat by comparison to 1/4" to 3.5mm adapters and futzing around.
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