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Post by sumgai on Apr 20, 2024 1:33:07 GMT -5
Nina DiGregorio. Write that name down, remember it. She takes on rock's biggest guitar icons, and if you weren't watching a video, you'd swear that this was the real thing.
Couple of examples:
I like to think that Eddie would've applauded. Then challenged her with, "Yeah, but let's see you do this.....
sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 20, 2024 1:24:23 GMT -5
Just found these ladies, but that's only because I've been playing AWOL from YouTube for the last few whiles.... They're all classically trained, but their first love is rock 'n' roll. One could find worse ways to spend their time. sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 14, 2024 12:22:15 GMT -5
thunderroad, Hi, and to The NutzHouse! Essentially, the best way to look at the bog-standard tone pot is to call it by its correct name, a treble cut. Some of your response just previous is correct, and some is, err, a little off-course. Which is which, doesn't matter. The fact is, basic electronics tells us that a capacitor wants to pass through higher frequencies, and reject the passage of lower frequencies. The point where the 'switch-over' occurs is dependent on the cap's value. Hint: it's a gentle curve between the two regions, not a sharp corner. What a guitar does is place a cap between the pickup and ground. Given what I just said, we now know that the cap will conduct some of the signal, meaning the higher frequencies, straight to ground. That's all well and good to say, but now you're asking, what does that mean for the final tone that comes out of our axe? Well, it means that electricity will always seek the easiest path back to the source. In this case, the source is our pickup, and we use the term "ground" to indicate a common point where several signals might be attempting to return to the source. Hint: that 'return to source' is usually denoted on the pickup by the negative symbol, or the minus symbol, take your choice. Since the higher frequencies that got through the cap have already been returned to the source (via ground), there's nothing left to travel further on towards the output jack, and thence on to the amp (or pedals). This describes the action of "cutting the treble frequencies", they're no longer available for us to work hear. That's the very basic way that the guitar's tone control has been working since the 1930's, and still how it works today. All that's left to say is something about the variable resistor, or the Tone Control itself. This works not on the frequencies themselves, but on the level of the signal passing through. The higher the resistance, the smaller the overall signal is fed to the cap, and thus the smaller amount of 'cut' that we notice. As we twist the control further (usually counterclockwise), the resistance becomes less and less, and that means that a greater level of the signal gets through to the cap. From there, it should now be obvious that we can vary the overall tone of the guitar from sharp and clear to muddy and/or muffled, simply by rotating the tone control, or the treble-cut control. You have other questions, but this was your first and foremost (in my judgment). Let's make sure that you've got the concept down, even if you don't know exactly how a capacitor works at this point in time. I've also not looked at the linked video above, but if kitwn says it looks like a good place to start, then I'll go along with him on that score. One final thought on that learning bit..... take it easy, don't force it. None of us here was born knowing all this stuff, we had learn it from other folks, just like you will, here in The NutzHouse. The real key is curiosity. You're gonna fly off in several (many!) directions, and that's not just OK, that's great. We'll keep you focused when and where you need to concentrate, and we'll let you blather all over the place when that's needful too. Your final take-away from all this is to have fun! HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 10, 2024 12:57:06 GMT -5
Even though Bluetooth is not directly involved here, I need to mention that Soundcore makes a line of headphones (and ear buds) that rival units costing two and three times as much. I have a Soundcore Life Q30, and it's been going strong for 2-1/2 years. Prior to that, I had a set of Life Q20 cans, and they sounded almost as good, but they weren't built to last... I only got about 17 or 18 months out of 'em before they literally fell apart. Still worked, but no longer fit my noggin. The Q30s? Still as good as new. Now, nearly all of Soundcore's line have a mini-jack for wired audio, and that sounds good as well, but that is so limiting. Wireless is the way to go, particularly when embracing one's guitar. I really don't think anyone is going to try to persuade me that when one gets into the heat of the moment, they can still sit still as a statute so as not to yank out the cord, or worse, pull the 'phones off of his/her head. Can't be done, unless you're listening to, and attempting to play along with, Gregorian. (Nice segue here, if you haven't heard of them, try this: They "do their thing" on just about every kind of genre, you might be pleasantly surprised.) I'm beginning to sound like they're paying me for this "endorsement", but no, that's not the case. I just happen to like the phones I've got, and so far, I'm a happy camper. So, no going into prices, features (other than Bluetooth), where to buy, etc. Just know that there are good reasons they're selling like hotcakes. HTH sumgai p.s. Congrats, newey , on finally getting out from under the yoke! Now all you need is a travel trailer and a yearning to re-visit the West Coast, and we can finally meet with guitars in our hands! p.p.s Oh wait, am I really gonna leave you with an unresolved question, namely how to implement Bluetooth where the unit under discussion does not have it built-in? No. And going against what I said a moment ago, here's a link that'll fix you right up: Bluetooth transmitters on AmazonHappy Rockin' Out!
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Post by sumgai on Apr 7, 2024 21:19:47 GMT -5
On a tangent , I've used a shielded jack cable and lifted one end of its shielding (well, not really lifted, but clipped short and shrink wrapped without connecting it). Not for fear of any ground loop, just because it's easier to install! That's a valid way to go. The only time one can't do this is when plugging his/her guitar into the first "box" outside of said guitar - there you need to have both conductors intact for, again, obvious reasons. If all of the pedals in your signal chain are battery powered, then the chances of a ground loop are much lower. Might happen, should one pedal perhaps have a positive ground circuit instead of the more common negative ground style of wiring, but even there, it's most likely that any noise will be small. But if noise does crop up, try the clipped shield technique first, before resorting to cash-eating gizmos. HTH Oh, and you're welcome! sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 7, 2024 13:37:20 GMT -5
Steve, One of the few things I have left in my noggin is a well-battered sense of being a classically trained Electrical Engineer. To that end, please forgive me if I sound defensive, that's not my intent here. I've probably forgotten more than I can imagine that I ever knew in the first place, I started so long ago.... about 1957 or '58, the memory ain't quite what it used to be. Enough of that. What matters here is why I'm about to make a bald statement - Fralin, and for all I can tell, nearly all other pickup makers have never seen the inside of an Engineering School. In short, they're very good hobbyist-grade tinkerers. Chris Kinman is one of the few exceptions I can think off the top of my head. This easily explains newey 's correct assertion that he (Lindy Fralin) isn't the first one to get it wrong, that in fact he's just repeating "legend and lore" as if it were fact, without so much as a nod at a sustainable reference to back up his assertions. I used to rail against this kind of thing, thinking that I was gonna set the world straight, but for all my barking and whining, nothing ever improved. It took me more than 60 years to learn that lesson, you can make of it what you will, free of charge. So, to the jousting yard. What is a ground loop?Good question. Long and short, it's defined as more than one pathway for current to travel, with the specific destination of returning to the current's source, aka 'ground'. We'll some specific examples in short while. So what kinds of ground loops play a part in our music production (and reproduction)? Within a guitar, there's no significant current flow across any of the wiring, so any loops are going be undetectably small. But outside of the axe? As intimated by newey , we need to see significant current flow in order to observe ground loops. This can be seen at the 9v battery stage of pedals, etc. but it's more commonplace among items that plug into wall sockets... there's where can get some real power flowing! Let's start here. Imagine plugging in and powering up a multi-effects pedal, perhaps a Boss ME-80. Now we want to do some serious looping, so we'll plug in and power up a Boss RC-300. Cool. Now, imagine that somehow, when you turn them both on, they are silent. Still cool. But when you feed the -80 into the -300, you get a hum, even before you plug in your guitar - that's a ground loop, working hard to annoy the crap out of you!. The best way (meaning the safest way) to eliminate that hum is "lift the ground" between the two units. There are lots of gizmos on the market to do this, but you can "cheat" by simply cutting the ground wire between the two units. What ground wire, you ask? Why, the shielding surrounding the inner core on your guitar cable, the one doing duty as a signal carrier between Unit A and Unit B. Trimming the cable's shielding back from the plug on one end will break that ground loop circuit, but there is a caveat - don't strip back any more shielding than you can help, because it's still doing the job of protecting the inner core from general noise. The simple fact is, it only needs to be grounded at one end, not both. So what's up with that, cutting one end's shielding cuts out the hum? Because back at the power supply cords, the two units are connected to the same ground point at the wall socket. This is a path that is supposed to carry the power ground, but as luck would have it, it also acts to carry the signal ground. And BINGO!, there're our multiple paths I spoke of earlier - one via the guitar cord between the two units, and one via the power cords. Cut one or the other, and the ground loop goes away, taking with it the bothersome hum. I hope it's obvious that cutting a device's power cord ground is an unwise decision, right? Better to spend a few buck on a gizmo made to do that job, if you can't bear to cut up your guitar cables. Any questions? HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Apr 5, 2024 13:33:30 GMT -5
Steve, even in my fevered state of reduced mental capacity, I really have to question just where you came up with your hypothesis about how ground loops are constructed. Did you read this theory somewhere, and if so where (links, please), or did you dream it up all on your own? newey gives you the barest clue as to what a ground loop entails, but I suspect that you'd benefit from a more detailed (and nuanced) discussion on this topic. sumgai p.s. Gawd, I hope I'm not being trolled!
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Post by sumgai on Apr 2, 2024 9:46:03 GMT -5
See admin panel. Holy Jumpin' Jeosophat! unreg , you've done earned a boatload of respect, that's for sure!! All any of us can say is THANK YOU, SIR, in all capital letters. For those not on the Staff, so you can't see the referenced "Admin Panel", what unreg has done is to purchase, on a recurring basis, ad-free page-views for everyone. That's not exactly a minor thing, I'm sure you all understand. Do the Staff a favor and drop unreg a line, thanking him for his generosity. Whew, I'm simply speechless. Thanks, buddy. Truly, thank you. sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Mar 23, 2024 0:36:56 GMT -5
Slight correction to the above.... Dumble's first name was Howard, Alexander was his middle name. In his later years (he lived to 77), he preferred to be known by his middle name, but most everybody just referred to him as Dumble.
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Post by sumgai on Feb 24, 2024 12:47:02 GMT -5
foxmilder . Yeah, I used to get that more often that seems reasonable - "Sorry, I'm no good at tests, too much pressure", and similar excuses. The other one is "How do you know that I'm not cheating, if we're so far apart?", to which I would reply "If you show up on my doorstep, I'll pay your way here and back regardless of the results. But you have to put your money where your mouth is first, and pay your way here as a matter of trust in your own statements". Never got a taker, not once in more than 40 years. Why so long? 'Cause I'm deep into my 70's and I know for a fact that my hearing was damaged beyond all repair in my youth. Never mind loud music, never mind racing (drag, Formula Vee, stock cars, hydroplanes, etc.), try sleeping less than 100 feet from a pair of 155mm howitzers, when at 1:30 in the morning they decide to start shelling a Viet Cong stronghold. That'll fix your hearing right smartly, take my word for it. So for me, call it a perverse form of confirmation bias if you wish, but no, I don't believe in Golden Ears. If someone truly has them, then they've lived a very sheltered life, and probably not one that I'd've liked to live. Now let me dodder off back to my morning cup of tea. My chronic lumbago is acting up, don't you know.... sumgai p.s. Yeah, I know, my profile says I was born on Jan 1st of 1980. For those who don't know, the joke goes like this: The IBM PC was released to the public on August 12th, 1981. That machine could "back date" only to 1/1/1980 - any further, and the thing would fold up like a tent in a desert storm.... sort of like dividing by zero, you never knew how it was going to react. But that's where my "birthdate" comes from. And no, for quite obvious reasons, I'm not really located in the Vatican, that's also a joke - I'm about as far from religious in the Catholic vein as it's possible to get. (But I'm not quite the Anti-Christ that they're so afraid of. )
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Post by sumgai on Feb 22, 2024 13:52:35 GMT -5
.... If you wire the left side per Ash's suggestion, then you do another wire ground to D on 1st switch, F 1st switch to D on 2nd switch, F on 2nd switch to D on 3rd switch, and F on 3rd switch to guitar hot output. John, "D" on the first switch (or on any of them) is the output line - grounding that line is shunting all of the signal to ground forever. Nearly the same for grounding "F", once the pickup is switched off, the output line goes to ground, and the remaining pups are out of commission - all three pickups must be on for anything to sound out. There is an obvious way to do of this, but I wanna let you cogitate on possible solutions first. HTH BTW, carlbrunstril - Hi, and to The NutzHouse!! sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Feb 21, 2024 23:31:06 GMT -5
kitwn I learned a long time ago that if some given person opines that such-and-such is the bee's knees, then I ask just one question of them - "Will you sit down for a double blind test?". Invariably, I get "No" for an answer, accompanied by a variety of reasons excuses. At that point in time, I dismiss them from my world view, and continue on my way. Opinions are one thing, facts are quite another. If a person doesn't trust his own statements enough to be tested for veracity, then I have to conclude that it's ego talking, in the form of confirmation bias. (And that's the clean version of how I wanted to describe it!) sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Feb 7, 2024 0:26:50 GMT -5
Absolutely not. I not only used this very setup for several years, but the Vguitarforums is absolutely full of users who aren't experiencing any issues of this sort. When you say "used this very setup", do you mean specifically piezos like the Graphtech Ghost piezos.... I mean that I had a 97 MIJ Strat that had a Ghost setup including the Hexpander. I went up to Canada (Delta, not all that far from the US border) and consulted with Leigh and David, the chief techie and owner, respectively. An otherwise stock vibrato unit, set to float because I like to 'lean' on it to raise the pitch as well as go lower. And strings made by Dean Markley, their stainless steel set of 10-46 gauge. Never a problem. I've installed several sets of hex pickups from various companies, on various guitars, for various customers, and they're pretty much all the same. So easy that a rookie modder should be able to do it without errors. But that does not mean that there can't be problems. Like the piezos themselves could be bad, or the lead coming out of them, ditto. Companies try their best to ship error-free products, but then again, that's why they have warranties. I've always said that the best method of troubleshooting is "substitution with a known good part". The problem with that little dictum is that it runs up against the trade-off of either cost, time, effort, or any combo thereof. But when push comes to shove, that's the bottom line, All that's left is to determine priorities - do you take the easy route, the cheap route, the quickest route, or do you just bite the bullet and plug in a known good part, and see what happens. Of course, that part is up to you, the modder. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Feb 6, 2024 17:23:17 GMT -5
It is quite possible that the combination of a piezo pickup with a trem is just a no-no! Of course - the manufacturers and retailers of piezo pickups will be in no hurry to tell you this! Absolutely not. I not only used this very setup for several years, but the Vguitarforums is absolutely full of users who aren't experiencing any issues of this sort. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Feb 6, 2024 17:07:04 GMT -5
One more thought.... A couple of decades ago, Roland brought out a new synth/modeler unit, and the GK3 hex pickup. That particular pickup demonstrated a susceptibility for sub-sonic interference, especially when used with older equipment. Richard McLish developed a small board to go between the pup and whatever followed, all it had was a sextet of high-pass filters, and he sold the board to those who needed it, for a decent price, and without fanfare. I'm thinking that if you are having this issue, then it's possible that others might have it as well. In that case, Richard may have already constructed a "work around" for it. It won't hurt to ask, I'm sure. rmcpickup.com
HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Feb 5, 2024 12:46:00 GMT -5
finn, First off, to The NutzHouse! We see right away from that video that you're are truly Nutz, with a guitar like that you'll fit right in here. I had a Graphtech Ghost system for years on an old Strat, it didn't exhibit the problem you're seeing. The only thing I can think of is that you're changing the downward pressure of the string across the piezo too quickly to be handled properly. My first thought, seeing as you've been dealing with this for awhile with no solution, would be to contact the nice folks at Graphtech. But there's also a forum that you don't list as part of your search for answers, you might want to give them a try: Vguitarforums.comThat's the mecca for all things related to synth guitars/basses, and by extension, to pickups for those systems. Might be worth a shot, who knows.... HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Feb 5, 2024 12:30:31 GMT -5
post I read here a while ago that made me think that it'd be better to put the cold on the outside of the coil for its (albeit limited) shielding effect. Any opinions on whether that's a valid factor, worthy of bucking convention? Bucked Hum Is.ChrisK (R.I.P.) said that, in his usual Zen manner, referencing the fact that a shield is still a shield no matter where the wiring starts or ends, because said shield is magnetic, not electrical. We give thanks for that fact, because manufacturers are all over the map when it comes to how to do things. I mean, they might wind one model of pickup in one direction, and the next model they bring out could just as easily be wound in the opposite direction. North and South are interchangeable simply because they're reference labels, and not standardized at all. Ditto for Start and Finish, just more labels. And don't get me started on wire colors, that's especially onerous in terms of companies trying to "out-confuse" buyers/owners/modders/etc. One ring to bind them all? Don't make me laugh. Hey, you asked for opinions. Now for your kicker - your use of 'cold' as in putting it on the outside is only an instantaneous point in time. It'd be true if everything here was DC, but we're dealing with AC, as in frequencies. At that point, you're no longer in "strict reference-ville", you're in the ever-changing world of a signal swinging between positive and negative across some reference point, ad finitum. Magnetic theory is actually pretty intense. We've covered it here, sometimes deeply. You can use the Search button above to look around for those threads. And of course you can really go off the deep end with a more generalized search across the web, that's on you. But you might also want to visit this link, just for grins: Search results for Lightwave Optical Pickups for guitar and bassHTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 30, 2024 13:30:08 GMT -5
Yogi is correct. Both my OS-provided calculators and every online calculator I found have all gotten the order of operations wrong. When evaluating tetration (and higher order eponentiation), you work from the right to the left. Thus, 5 ^ 5 ^ 5, as a matter of tetration, should be rewritten not as 3125 ^ 5 (as now obviously done by the aforementioned calculators), but as 5 ^ 3125. That results in Yogi's ridiculously large number. In fact, the only website that got it correct that I could find after a very diligent search was Microsoft's MathSolver. Everyone else either used the incorrect method (left to right) or just went off on a tangent about some unrelated topic having nebulous ties to my query. So strike my answer above, for now obvious reasons. Sorry 'bout that. Why did I post this? Because I was recently reminded of something that I used to do in solving equations for graphical functions, back before the advent of graphing calculators. In electronics and electrical theory, one can go the other way around and invert the tetration by using logarithms. An example would be how to calculate the dynamic resistance of PN junction, as pretty much invented by Shockley. (The actual formula, not the invention of the PN junction itself. That honor is shared between Shockley, Bardeen and Brattain.) It's getting pretty 'old' trying to write complex equations using Katex, so rather than go down that road (the formatting for such is way out of bounds for something that should be simple), let me just send you over to the best article I could find for an explanation: Shockley's Diode Equation (which takes you to physics.stackexchange.com) HTH sumgai p.s. Yogi, these formulas shouldn't be center-justified, they should be almost completely to the left. The only way I could find to make this happen was with a table, inside of a blockquote. That's cumbersome, even though it makes for a presentation style that's easier on the eyes. Can we change the 'title=math' button to more-or-less left-justify equations? Please?
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Post by sumgai on Jan 29, 2024 22:50:16 GMT -5
{^{3}5}
This is called "tetration", it's a form of writing a very large number that was based on the single digit, 5. To think of it in a more familiar context, try 5 ^ 5 ^ 5. That's easy to speak out loud: "raise 5 to the 5th power (which equals 3125), and then raise 5 to that number as a power". It may not look right at first, but your calculator will get it correct. The answer to that one would be: 298,023,223,876,953,125. (If your calculator blows up at this, simply type the formula into any search engine, and trust me, you'll get the same answer as above.) Just for fun, you can do this even higher, like as in tetration is 4th level, pentation is 5th level, hexation is 6th level, and right on up the scale. However, you really need to be an advanced mathematician to need to use numbers on that scale. Also, I used the notation I learned in Rudy Rucker's book Infinity And The Mind published in, I think, 1982, but he took it from Maurer who made it up in 1901. There have since been many attempts at writing math expressions like this, each "school" having their adherents. To me, it's fascinating, but then again, I'm the twisted one here. First reference: Wikipedia - Tetration
After that, you're on your own! sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 29, 2024 16:04:37 GMT -5
What the heck is this: {^{3}5}
Any takers? sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 25, 2024 20:50:23 GMT -5
Two to four years old, and it's already messed up? Next time step up in quality. It costs more upfront, but the hassle of what you just went through ain't worth it. IMO, of course. In searching for that image (above), it seems that many pots are now available in a closed casing. Bournes for one, and you've seen how many Nutz are exclaiming about their quality, so that might be a good place to start. Again, IMO. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 24, 2024 23:35:55 GMT -5
unreg, As reTrEaD notes, it works now, but if it went gunnysack once, it might do so again. I'd put that down to age more than anything else. How old is this thing? Now that you're not in a hurry to replace it just to make it playable again, this might be a good time to consider purchasing a replacement part, and setting it aside for a rainy day. Call it an insurance policy, if you will. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 24, 2024 1:16:02 GMT -5
Where is the open space to squirt my cleaner in? It took me awhile to find the exact right image, but I hope that you can see the opening I'm referring to: Spray around in there, one or two seconds, and rotate the shaft to disperse the cleaner. If doing that twice does not save/restore good operation, then it's time to move on to Step 2, R'n'R the unit. (aka Remove And Replace. ) HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 22, 2024 22:55:22 GMT -5
unreg, Any of those products you linked are good to go. Here's my favorite spray, but that's because I can get it locally: Electrosolve Contact Cleaner
HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 20, 2024 1:50:19 GMT -5
unreg,
First, take the cheap and easy route - clean the pot. You may have some disassembly on your hands, sorry (I'm thinking of top-loaded guitars here, whereas an LP is easy, just remove the back cover). However, the last thing you want to do is spray any kind of aerosol down the side of the shaft - this does nothing good for the pot. (Doing so is seriously bad advice, sadly found all over 'net.) Don't use anything like WD-40, that's nothing more than spray-on kerosene! Instead, find something called a "tuner cleaner", that's the best stuff for this job.
You need not take apart the pot itself (unless it's closed up tighter than a drum), just spray a few squirts into the open area, rotate the shaft several times, and see if that did the trick. If not, then you'll have to break open the piggy bank and fire up the web browser.
HTH
sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 20, 2024 1:33:36 GMT -5
One thing you gotta admit, it's graphite-reinforced to the hilt!
Nice find.
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Post by sumgai on Jan 19, 2024 0:31:20 GMT -5
'cop, to The NutzHouse! The diagram you want is any standard Les Paul setup, those without any modifications are in line with your desires. (A good start would be this 1957 LP Standard.) All you need to know at this point is that you don't want push-pull pots, you want instead something called a dual-gang concentric pot (2 of them). This is a configuration whereby two shafts, one inside of the other, each control one 'wafer', or resistance element. It should be obvious that each resistance element is treated as if it were one individual pot - the differences are only in the physical sense, electrically they are absolutely interchangeable. You can find them in various values, but if you want to keep to the original Gibson design, then you'll be wanting 300K Ω units. (Meaning, both wafers have that value.) There are plenty of sources across the web, but you might start with Amazon, they seem to have a few items available for decent prices. But here's the rub. While 300K Ω can be found in single pots, concentric pots might be a different story. You may, just may, have to settle for 250K Ω units, but many users find that value to be too low for their tastes. (Higher frequencies are lacking.) From there, it's up to a value of 500K Ω, and probably a majority of users either don't mind this value, or they actually like the resultant tonality. Be prepared to spend in the neighborhood of $10 to $12 for lesser quality units, and add on $4 or $5 more for quality items.... at Amazon. Guitar-oriented sites may have the item(s) you want, but the cost goes up. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 16, 2024 12:11:45 GMT -5
dynamitebloomseed , First, to The NutzHouse! Second, you're correct in that per the first image in your link, we can see that the two sections of the switch are separate, with 4 and 5 being the common terminals for each. Lacking a jumper between them, I am strongly confident that the tone controls don't work as intended by the manufacturer, nor as desired by most users. In fact, they don't work at all, do they. So. Put a jumper between 4 and 5, that'll tie the two sections together, just as you surmised. Then strip both Tone control wires from the switch, and that jumper too (it may be nothing more than the end of one of the wires, not a separate jumper). Clean up all the remaining solder, and put the tone control wires back on the proper terminals as you wish. By that I mean, you've said that you don't want any tone control for the Bridge pup, so leave terminal 8 unconnected. Again, just as you already figured out. And trust me, you may be "new" to guitar wiring, but you made the correct "sense" out of what you found - it's bogus, plain and simple. But what amazes me is that terminal 5 never had solder on it - it's as clean as if it were new, so that tells me that the switch was replaced by someone less familiar with guitars then you! But also, I have to say this now - if you're going to be replacing parts, then you should consider stepping up to a quality switch at the same time. What I see now may not be "junk", but I'm morally certain that it won't last as long as the rest of your rig. And that means, you'll be opening up the guitar again, just to fix that piece of #%&@. Grrrr! HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 16, 2024 11:47:41 GMT -5
cem, I'm too old to judge, but if my feet were put to the fire, I'd have to say that your guitar tech may be fine with wood, even good with wood, but he or she is not up to speed on things electrical (or magnetic). Of course you can swap the "Neck-On" jumper wire over to the Bridge pup, making that switch a "Bridge-On" instead. The fact it's a humbucker has no bearing on the topic. And since you've stated that your picking hand is always touching that Bridge pickup, I have to wonder.... if you're not getting hum now (from touching it), then how is it becoming a Bridge-On going to suddenly make it start humming? Now, as to this magic "big bucks illitch silent single coil system".... have you checked out this thread: Dummy Coil Experiment - Successful? Just thought I'd mention it, in case you've not seen it ere now. HTH sumgai
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Post by sumgai on Jan 16, 2024 11:22:29 GMT -5
aikiharp , First, to the NutzHouse! Next, a slight correction to what Steve just said about where to post.... The Gallery is for images of your guitar itself, either as built by a manufacturer, or as you built it, or as a "work-in-progress" on its way to being finished, etc. It's not where we publish circuit diagrams, such as you've offered. (Quoting you: (happy to share that wiring diagram if desired).) Generally speaking, the place for diagrams is in the Guitar Wiring forum, but there is at least one exception. A completed, tested, and working diagram can go in the Guitar Schematics forum. Pretty much, a poster in that forum is not asking questions, they're simply presenting something that others can use. However, other posters with questions can start discussions in those threads just as easily as if the circuit diagram had been posted in Guitar Wiring. For questions about a diagram, completed or otherwise, it's probably best to use the Guitar Wiring forum. If one wishes to discuss tone controls specifically, then a partial diagram in this forum ( Tone Control Discussions) is also a good place to get answers. As you've no doubt seen already, there is a good mixture of both completed tone circuits that are thrown out there for use by other modders, and extensive discussions stemming from questions about such-and-such a circuit. HTH sumgai
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