|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 13, 2019 15:22:18 GMT -5
Think I may know your problem, did you separate the metal claw, solder a new wire to it and run to ground?
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 29, 2017 7:35:43 GMT -5
The way you asked in the first post sounded like you needed a spring loaded volume pedal that goes up but down in volume when the foot pressure is removed. Maybe a momentary latch pedal?
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 21, 2017 5:15:35 GMT -5
PRS has done it in the past with a 1k for the neck and a 2k2 resistor for the bridge. It was suppose to retain some of the beefiness of the split coil. It's worth a try, or use a cap instead if you don't like the sound with a resistor
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Apr 26, 2017 15:16:37 GMT -5
Great job on the presentation. Looks slick. I played around with the idea also of 250k for parallel and 500k for series and found the resistor sounded more like a sterile treble cut than a 250k voltage divider. Could be why Fender used dual 250k/500k volume for their Shawbucker instead of the tradional pot and resistor trick. It may function electrically the same, but tonally not the same.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jan 14, 2017 7:59:11 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 21, 2016 16:36:47 GMT -5
I've thought of this. 250k for sc and parallel, and 500k for series. All it would take would be a cheap Alpha dual gang pot and swap one wafer from a single gang pot. Less than $5 total. The spare poles on my super switch would of taken care of the switching issues. Swapped out the 250k in my tele for a 500k, and it sounded hollow, no mids. Even in series. So back in goes the 250k. It was worth the simple experiment, but not worth keeping. Fender came out with a ssh strat, the Shawbucker that uses a 500k for the bridge, and 250k for the single coils.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 21, 2016 5:22:24 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Dec 14, 2016 16:12:25 GMT -5
Not including the 3k3 resistor in the Arlo mod? It's in series before the 10nf cap.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 17, 2016 16:56:50 GMT -5
Recently modified my tele again with a Broadcaster style blend. Where it blends the neck with 100% bridge through a single 250KA pot. Using a reverse pot seems more intuitive and works better when rolling up the pot. Worked out rather well, and sounds better then straight parallel. This got me thinking about the parallel half out of phase position. Since the neck being hoop'd causes a reduction in output, the bridge pup could be blended as well to either balance or vary it. Looked around and the closest is a strat with a n/b blend and the neck having a phase switch, but no comments on the sound or results. Has anyone tried something similar to this and could comment? Read somewhere a change in volume effects the phase cancellation, or is this not the case since there is only resistance of the blend pot between the bridge and the neck's hoop cap?
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 17, 2016 16:31:16 GMT -5
Could try used ones instead. There's two on fleabay made from Grayhill, and a bit cheaper too.
What are you using them for? Do they fit in a solid body guitar, or for thick hollow bodies?
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Oct 3, 2016 5:20:52 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Sept 10, 2016 18:26:41 GMT -5
Here's my take on a Tele with a Blend pot. It started out as a simple T-riffic style with a Broadcaster style blend (Neck blending with 100% Bridge) with no extra switches. Saw that the series could be blended as well, and worked to add that in. Then kept adding small mods and it took on a life of it's own. While it can be done with modified single gang pot, using a dual gang pot made everything simpler. Easy to disassemble and convert to a no load for the series wafer, plus you can swap the wafers for different values and tapers. Came up with two diagrams, the second one adds a push/pull for a bit extra. There is even a spare pole on the 5 way blade switch for more mods. The five pickup selections are Bridge, PHOoPR, Broadcaster blend, and series blend with SHOoP and Series. When in the two series positions, and when the Blend knob is rolled all the way back, you get Neck and HOoP. In the Bridge and PHOoPR positions, the Blend has no effect. By making the series wafer a no load, you take the blender out of the system and get full series. Took the idea for the PHOoPR (Parallel Half Out of Phase/Resistor) from JD Omniac Peavy Tele to add the resistors. The resistors add to the phase cancellation, larger resistors will cancel it more. The grounded series resistor before the HOoP Neck and one after the Bridge seem to fix the weak bright sound and balance it out compared to the usual PHOoP, and a more useul sound. Maybe even the Bridge and Middle sound like a Strat as boosted. Seen suggested values are 1k to 6k2. Initially tried 4k7, and had too much cancellation, smaller maybe be better. YMMV depending on your pups. If you don't want to use the resistors, you can just replace them with wire and just have PHOoP. With the P/P No Load Tone pot, it has many functions. Pulled up in the Bridge position, it's the Arlo Cocked Wah mod. In the other four positions, the .0047 and .01 caps in series produces a .003uf cap to ground. Much like the Eldred Cocked Wah mod. That was by accident this happened, serendipity. It also switches between two tone caps instead of assigning tone caps to the blade switch. This can be left out if you prefer a favorite tone cap value. The Tone pot need to be made a no load to take full advantage of the two cocked wah tones, or just for the pups with no tone. For Volume and Tone, you can use your choice of 250k to 500k pots. The 500k volume and 250k tone works well together. The Blend pot can be a 100k linear dual gang pot, or switch them around to suit the purpose. It need taken apart to make the series wafer need to be made a no load for full series at 10 Modified values are a 250KC reverse audio pot for the Broadcaster blend, the 15k is left out like the original so full parallel could be achieved when turning it up, but also have the full Broadcaster like sound with blending the neck to the bridge, especially with no tone. Then for the Series wafer, modified would be 100k audio.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Sept 10, 2016 16:13:18 GMT -5
The Alpha dime pots (16mm) are easy to pull apart to convert to a no load. Easier than using a toothpick or a jewelers screwdriver and going through the small opening by the tabs to apply the glue or polish.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Sept 10, 2016 14:11:31 GMT -5
So had the 100k linear blend no load pot in for a little over a week now, and initial impressions were good. Altho the value is good, a different taper could be used. Thinking of trying a no load 100kA next. At half way the pot is about 10k. Just past where the resistance is equal to your pickup. Rolling the pot up to 7-8 is roughly equal to 50k to 70k, which almost become a sweet spot and almost full blend. Also when you roll back the pot to where it starts to effect the internal resistance of the pickup, some interesting tones come out. Hard to test with a 100kB pot, the resistance is too short of a rotation. The idea here is to have all the action of the blend pot in the 5-10 area of the pot, much how we use the volume n tone in the last half of the rotation.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Sept 4, 2016 19:46:53 GMT -5
Glad you're digging the guitar as is. Did you manage to solve the scratchy pot? Sometimes just rotating the lever back and forth will clean the tracks.
Got a few of them, HII, HIB, H8, a Swede, and a Corando that needs refinishing.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Sept 2, 2016 18:54:59 GMT -5
Congrats on getting a vintage Hagstrom, got a few myself. Here's the schem for the Condor www.hagstrom.org.uk/Schematics/Schempics/Corvette-1966.jpgWhen the L is pushed, a .01 cap goes to ground and the lever connects to the 250k pot, it also bypasses the M and H setting If that's a scratchy one it's a reverse audio. It's cause the lever works opposite to a knob. My bass has the same set up. Could just try potentiometer spray cleaner first to save a lot of work. The M setting is just volume, and the H is a .0033 cap in series to produce a low cut, which explains why it lacks low frequencys. Chances are the caps are in the control switch box.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 21, 2016 10:25:45 GMT -5
Wasn't planning on cutting tracks, just blending one pup like your strat. Found a 100k pot in my parts bin, and salvaged a 5 way switch no now I can strat this project sooner than later.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 20, 2016 18:02:21 GMT -5
I'm going for the in between sound where most of the play is in the latter half of the rotation, 5-10. Going from your reply, a 50KB pot would work out best for a blend with greater variance. The first half of a 250KA is about 25k then jumps so could see how you have extra steps. Need to order a pot so might as well get both in case the smaller one isn't enough, doesn't hurt to try.
Thanks again
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 18, 2016 16:40:23 GMT -5
So I worked in a 3M reverse audio pot to act as a bass cut that can be switched in or out. Also had two cap values to play with. It worked pretty well on by Bass VI, even had less volume loss compared to the straight cap. But found once I had a spot I liked the pot, I left it there, so may go back the the original sound without the pot. The pups seem to interact with just a series cap anyways.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 18, 2016 16:33:43 GMT -5
What's a good pot value and taper for blending pups in series like the SPlender and such. Read over a few good posts from years ago and mostly 100k linear was used. More recent schems that's been posted here use 250k audio. But also talk of too much wasted space/taper after a certain point. Were the 250KA more readily available in people's parts bin or was it determined that 250k a better value? I've worked out how to add a single blend pot to the classic T-riffic wiring on a tele with a bridge SD Broadcaster and a neck BL Keystone using 500k pots.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Aug 2, 2016 5:07:31 GMT -5
Makes sense how it works for a slide switch. Very similar to a 4 position blade switch I guess, with respects to switch logic. It is smaller than a standard dpdt slider.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 30, 2016 16:15:11 GMT -5
Are the same size as your standard dpdt slide switch? If so it would e great to control two pups with one switch.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 24, 2016 17:31:15 GMT -5
If you don't want the effects board then you'll have to got the totally passive route and ignore this schematic. Do you have the missing two stiches? You could start with a fender bass vi schem that also has three single coils and originally used spdt swithces, single volume and tone. This leaves you with two extra switches and and an extra tone pot.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 22, 2016 5:40:05 GMT -5
The 3 on off switches look like your standard pickup selector. Is it 2 tone pots or one tone pot and one treble pot? Think I saw a russian bass with a 500k reverse pot and a .0068 uf cap for a bass cut
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 7, 2016 4:57:54 GMT -5
I'd you're using all four switches for the pup control, you can use the stock on/on switches.
Haven't been able to find a 2p3t switch the size of the stock switches. Either too large to too small. Did find one one ebay that fit but is skinnier and had a tall switch that I took a dremel to. They don't make slide switches that operate as the on-on-on toggle as shown above.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jul 1, 2016 6:34:34 GMT -5
The metal parts that wrap around the pup are called claws. Same concept as the metal plate on a tele bridge pup or humbucker covers and need it's own ground. When doing series they should be separated from the pup ground wire and given its own wire to ground it. You don't need to physically separate them. Once that's done you should get better readings from your meter when in series mode. Since the bridge is about 12k and the mid/neck are both about 6k, we'll...you can do the math.
Another wiring idea that could be used if you don't want the strangle switch is to wire the middle and neck to two switches that run sc or parallel when one or both are up. Series when both are down. Then repeat that with the bridge and the n/m on the other two switches. Bridge or n/m when one is up or parallel when both up. Series when both down B*N/M The n/m pup grounds from the first two switches connect to the latter switches. This gives you 6 series combos on top of the stock 7 parallel combos with no dead spots.
My Oly Bass VI is currently wired with the 'Dan Armstrong 12 postion' cause I found a dp3t slide switch to function as the on/on/on switch. Altho I may simplify it and keep the n/m switching and making the bridge either parallel or series to the front pair. B*(N+M) is by far my favourite.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 22, 2016 16:44:54 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply on this. I have an empty hole for a pot and exploring options instead of posting the usual 'tell me what to' thread.
So it may or may not work depending on the cap values I use. Might have to play around with it as I have a staight .0033 or a .0066 (2x.0033 caps) and like the sound with just a switch, no extra fiddling with knobs.
Even came up with away to add the pot to the switch to be able to turn it off by shunting it, and included a Free Woman Tone to work with it.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Jun 16, 2016 17:04:46 GMT -5
Was thinking of upgrading the low cut switch I have in my Bass VI with a 1M bass cut pot. Actually it's on a dpdt center off switch that I want to connect to the bass cut pot and that way can shunt it when I want to turn it off, or have two different cap values. Altho not understanding why the volume pot has to be a maximum of 250k. My bass has a 1M volume pot at the moment. It's a CTS pot from '66 and has that 'vintage taper' and sounds great with it. How is that going to effect the operation of the bass cut pot with a 1M volume pot? How does the volume pot factor into the rc frequency equation?
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Feb 10, 2016 18:38:45 GMT -5
I've been looking into making a varitone with a concentric pot, which I may not do, but I've come across a lot of info on the net if you can filter through it. It should be a RLC circuit instead. If you have just a LC, it creates a very narrow notch, you can't have a perfect LC because you will encounter some form of resistance either in wiring or component leads. The resistor is needed to control the width of the notch, or called Q, for the Quality. It's more of an engineering term than a musical one. The Q is the bandwitdth that is effected. A low Q will be wide, and the same with a high Q having a narrow Q. Here's a Bandwidth Calculator you can use once you know your Q. www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-cutoffFrequencies.htmSo with the last example, a 15H and a 4.7nf, and add a 100k like the typical Gibson values. The center frequency is 599hz, the Q is .56, the upper and lower cut off is 268 to 1340 hz. Change the values to 1.5H, 47nf cap and a 10k resistor, you may get the same. I've heard the inductor needs to be large enough for it to work, but not sure about that tho. Sounds like it would cut out a lot, but the varitone is not a series RLC circuit, which does work as mid cut circut. Looking at the schems, and other gibson varitones, it's a resistor parallel to the capacitor that's in series with a inductor. This link has different LC circuits with SPLICE pics and codes. www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/alternating-current/chpt-6/resonance-series-parallel-circuits/From what I'm seeing, the resistor in parallel to the cap in series with the inductor has a frequency peak instead of a notch. If you want to try a 15H, you can put two 42TL017 in series. They are 7.5H on the primary side.
|
|
|
Post by ChristoMephisto on Nov 29, 2015 9:35:47 GMT -5
That's a great layout for you idea.
Isn't the Strangle switch and the bass but knob doing the same thing except one is varible. Maybe one for the middle pup and the other for bridge and neck.
In the Vox Starstream the pickups go straight to the effects after the pup selector then to the master volume. Something to think about I guess. There isn't a lot out there about effect in guitars these days.
|
|