Don’t understand it

[frets]

Hi Guys,

Im trying to build a simple PTB harness for an HHH whereby 3 on/on/on switches control each pickup for series/coil split/parallel.  Well it does not work correctly.  The Bridge switch does work but the Middle switch only works in the Series mode.  The Neck switch does not work at all.  For the life of me, I do not understand it.  I have checked my wiring numerous times.  I don’t get it.

I put together a diagram of it but did so quickly.  If anyone can explain it to me I would appreciate it.  It’s really got me pd.

[newey]

frets-

Sorry, had to move your thread.

Your diagram looks fine. The On-On-On switches should give Parallel HB with the lower lugs connected to the commons, series HB with the upper lugs connected, and North (slug) coil in the center.

You might have considered wiring the middle HB "inside out" as long-time member wolf calls it, so as to select the South coil on the middle pickup, thus maintaining hum-cancelling at positions 2 and 4 of the 5-way. But assuming all three HBs are identical, this diagram does not do so.

But it should still work as advertised, so the trouble must lie elsewhere. Time to break out your meter .

EDIT: You did test the switches before wiring? I assume you did but had to ask.

[frets]

Thanks Newey for confirming the diagram for me. I’m wondering if it’s the 5-way. It’s a Kaish import sealed switch. I’ve not used one before, the client wanted it. They look like a well made switch but the whole harness is wonky. I will do continuity testing and hook it up to a standard 5-way. Thanks!!😸😸😸

[newey]

The "no neck at all" you described could be put down to the 5-way switch, but it sounds like the middle pickup problem lies in the DPDT, if you are getting the middle pickup on the 5-way in some positions (i.e., when DPDT is set to series)

[Deleted]

Just looking at the circuit.. 2P2T on/on/on with the on/on/-- part being bottom left and top right
All look good to me. The five way ok and the treble.
A1M hmm the original has C1M reviser and I know myself putting a 500k it only worked as soon as it got past the 250K mark . Still no reason for these problems

Best to unsolder/cut and use the beep test to see if the signal can get past every thing.. it can be easy to have too much heat to a switch and melt it's insides (works on humans but I use x-rays for that) and would need to test the switches are on/on/on (I'm not sure myself to know which throw is which myself)

[frets]

I think you guys are right.  The 5-Way is good, tested that.  I’ve never had trouble with a toggle but those are most likely the culprit.  Although they do switch through all 3 positions.

I wanted to let all you guys know that because of a shallow cavity, I used a Kaish Import switch on this build. It’s the first time I’ve used such and I am impressed.  It’s the sealed ball bearing type.  About $10.  Real smooth throw on it.  Small profile at a little over an inch tall.😸

[newey]

Jun 28, 2022 11:49:50 GMT -5 @angellahash said:

I'm not sure myself to know which throw is which myself

I've lived and learned from that. A Sharpie™ marker is your friend here. Test the switch, and mark it at the same time. Although it should always be bottom left and top right holding the switch vertically, facing you. But wiring upside down, under the pickguard (or template), things get turned around and a marking is handy.

[Deleted]

I've had one of these switches to see what i can do with them .. its basically a ball with a spring to push it up and keep it on the two rings, inner and outer (if i recall)
i was looking to change it but i couldnt figure out away off hand.


ANYWAY, i guess if one BALL is missing or a bit of the Ring is damage it could do this fault with the Neck
BEEP test it in all FIVE states to make sure its getting what it should.

---------------------------

as for the 2P2T On/On/ON there I HOPE a Standard

1 4
2 5
3 6

So as you look at it like this that say 3 & 4 will be the (im not sure 100% what to call it) the Commoner state
so no matter how you turn it 3 and 4 should stay in the same place.
But i dont use On/On/On that much to recall it every time so maybe its time i should.

[ssstonelover]

Frets,
This issue was probably solved long ago, but having run into issues with DPDT on-on-on and scrambled Type-1 and Type-2 myself on builds, I wonder if the fault lay there.
Now I sort and keep them in separate zip-locks to avoid this kind of maddening situation, (multimeter to the rescue).
Now if only DiMarzio and SD, etc, would only say which type is represented in their diagrams, so you don't have to trace it out and deduce it all...it would help even more....

[frets]

SSSTone,

It’s Type 2. I hope I’m answering your question. I’ve used both but the most common ones are Type 2.

[newey]

frets-

Did we ever get thsi problem sorted out? I see that ssstonelover responded recently, but the thread goes back to last June.

When I reviewed your diagram back then, I was assuming the "Type 2" DPDT On-On-Ons, as I had never seen nor heard of a "type I" until ssstonelover mentioned it a while ago. So, the problem isn't withy the diagram as far as I can tell.

[ssstonelover]

Hi Frets,
I had a headache with series/split/parallel on a build and ended up with all type 2 (though I made drawings for both types) Series/Single/Parallel using DPDT on/on/on switches. HB pups
I got all positions to work well, BUT though I set up one "inside out" so that when both pickups were selected and both in split mode it should have been hum cancelling, it was not. Both pickups were the same brand and had the same wire colors but from different time periods and were different models. Nothing obviously off but as the customer did not really care and as it worked, I just left it alone. Having done the magnet test, the screwdriver test, etc....to no positive ID I could only conclude DiMarzio did not follow their own color pattern (over time), one of PUPS was a fake, or it was a random error in PUP assembly, and would probably need re-reversing the inside out switch back to standard (or getting out all the alligator clips and do some experiments)....and thus not worth the effort since the customer was not going to run that one connection much or even expect it to be naturally hum cancelling.

Anyway hopefully you got your issue sorted. Glad it was not a mixup of types in any case.

[frets]

Newey and SSSTone😸😸😸,

I did get the circuit to work but did it on the “fly.” Unfortunately, I did not diagram it. I will have to rebuild it and redo the diagram. I’m sorry.