brak
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by brak on May 9, 2024 16:03:55 GMT -5
Hello - Please assess my wiring diagram and let me know if it will work the way I hope it will. The plan is to replace my 2 dpdt on/on switches with on/on/on switches to achieve the following:
Strangle (bass cut) switch:
Up = Standard Strangle 3.3nf Middle = Bypass Down = Stronger bass-cut 1.5nf Treble-Cut switch:
Up = To Tone Pot with 15nf cap Middle = Bypass Down = Treble dump to ground 22nf |
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Post by ashcatlt on May 9, 2024 18:52:51 GMT -5
I can never actually remember how these switches connect in the middle on position, but assuming you've got that right, I think the bass cut switch works fine, but the treble switch needs rethunk. I'm currently having trouble figuring out how to fix it with that switch. You'd be better off with an on-off-on, and that would only really need one pole.
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Post by reTrEaD on May 9, 2024 21:32:48 GMT -5
Hello - Please assess my wiring diagram and let me know if it will work the way I hope it will. Unfortunately it will not. From the strangle switch, I can see you understand the connectivity of the center position of the on-on-on switches. But like other toggle switches, when the toggle is up, the commons are connected to the lower throws and when the toggle is down the commons are connected to the upper throws. The treble switch won't work at all like you expect. In both the down and center position of the toggle, you'll have the tone pot in the circuit. In the up position of the toggle, you'll have the signal connected to the shunt capacitor but no connection to the output jack. It would be more simple and direct to use an on-off-on for the treble switch but if you prefer to use an on-on-on, I've butchered your drawing to show how that is done, as well as flipping the caps in strangle circuit.  You have an extremely small cap for the treble bleed but if you aren't going to use a parallel resistor, I suppose that's not such a bad thing. However, you have your tone circuit connected '50s style. When you have the treble switch in the 'treble dump' position, the amount of treble being dumped will increase dramatically when the volume control is rotated counter-clockwise. |
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brak
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
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Post by brak on May 10, 2024 11:46:49 GMT -5
Hello - Please assess my wiring diagram and let me know if it will work the way I hope it will. Unfortunately it will not. From the strangle switch, I can see you understand the connectivity of the center position of the on-on-on switches. But like other toggle switches, when the toggle is up, the commons are connected to the lower throws and when the toggle is down the commons are connected to the upper throws. The treble switch won't work at all like you expect. In both the down and center position of the toggle, you'll have the tone pot in the circuit. In the up position of the toggle, you'll have the signal connected to the shunt capacitor but no connection to the output jack. It would be more simple and direct to use an on-off-on for the treble switch but if you prefer to use an on-on-on, I've butchered your drawing to show how that is done, as well as flipping the caps in strangle circuit. You have an extremely small cap for the treble bleed but if you aren't going to use a parallel resistor, I suppose that's not such a bad thing. However, you have your tone circuit connected '50s style. When you have the treble switch in the 'treble dump' position, the amount of treble being dumped will increase dramatically when the volume control is rotated counter-clockwise. Great advice on the 50's wiring, in a previous iteration of this guitar's wiring I had no treble bleed and 50's which was ok. Now that I am back to the original single-volume PRS treble-bleed I don't need to have 50's, thanks for the head's up, I couldn't have predicted that effect and am glad you've steered me clear of it. I saw last night after posting that there was a problem with my Treble switch, but hadn't figured out the solution. Seeing your response, I think I've figured it out. Part of the problem was that I was still trying to have my treble bypass be wired similarly to my current blower switch which bypasses everything. I don't actually want that now, I only want to be able to bypass the treble-cut, so the volume can go directly to the jack and everything that happens with the treble switch and pot can be downstream from volume but not between volume and jack (parallel instead of series?!). As both you and ashcatlt said, a on/off/on will work better for the treble. Also thanks for getting me re-calibrated on the up-is-down and down-is-up thing with the switches. I think I've corrected for that as well. And as ashcatlt said, I now have an un-used pole on the Treble switch. I'll consider it a growth opportunity to not try to cram some stuff on to those poles (I thought about making one of the directions be a switchable greasebucket, which would require the other pole, but I read in a couple places that it doesn't add much, and what it does add, I'll already will be able to achieve with a combination of the strangle switch and standard tone). So, how does this look, better?  |
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Post by reTrEaD on May 10, 2024 13:15:33 GMT -5
As both you and ashcatlt said, a on/off/on will work better for the treble. I wouldn't go so far as saying "better". The end result is exactly the same. It's just simple and easy to understand. So, how does this look, better? Looks fine to me. |
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brak
Rookie Solder Flinger
Posts: 9
Likes: 1
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Post by brak on May 10, 2024 14:30:02 GMT -5
Thank you! I really appreciate the help. |
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