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Post by flateric on Sept 13, 2006 16:57:30 GMT -5
Mid boost/cut control on a push/pull pot  Be interested to hear if anyone's tried this, any recommendations? Where would I get a suitable inductor from in the uk? |
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Post by UnklMickey on Sept 13, 2006 17:10:27 GMT -5
i don't see a value for the inductor.
where did you get the idea for this?
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Post by Mike Richardson on Sept 13, 2006 17:39:16 GMT -5
There should be a Torres website in the UK. They sell those pre-wired. There are several things to consider before using one. First, there is no "flat" response position on the pot. Torres claims that "5 is flat", but the device has no zero load position. Second, the "boost" doesn't boost. It is merely another treble roll-off with a resistor to retain a bit more low-to-mid signal, while the small-value cap rolls off only the very highest frequencies. I bought one years ago, because I'd read about it, and wanted to see how to achieve a "boost without batteries". Well, you can't do it, and neither can Torres.
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Post by ChrisK on Sept 13, 2006 17:53:59 GMT -5
It's a cut, more cut, and even more cut circuit. Ackshully, methinks that this came from the "Blue Guitar" site?  I remember it some years back, and then the link went GeFooey. Torres has something similar. It ain't just an inductor. It's a small audio coupling transformer with most of its legs pulled off (kids, grasshoppers). A good place to look is here: www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/164278.pdfThe 10k Ohm primary one is most likely measured at 1 kHz. Since Xl = 2PiFL = 6,283 * L L=Xl/2PiF = 10,000/6,283 = 1.59 H (edited for stupidity) Have fun! |
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Post by UnklMickey on Sept 13, 2006 18:02:47 GMT -5
...Ackshully, methinks that this came from the "Blue Guitar" site?
I remember it some years back, and then the link went GeFooey.... don't worry, Steve Ahola did not say "aloha". blueguitar.org/ |
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Post by ChrisK on Sept 13, 2006 20:39:32 GMT -5
Tanks, I knewd I'd seen it some a where.
Unfortunately, I have a phonographic memory.
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Post by UnklMickey on Sept 13, 2006 20:56:19 GMT -5
i have a pornogr..............er, uh, i mean, photographic memory.
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Post by flateric on Sept 14, 2006 12:56:18 GMT -5
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Post by dunkelfalke on Sept 14, 2006 14:10:16 GMT -5
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Post by UnklMickey on Sept 15, 2006 8:47:22 GMT -5
big difference on that one, Falke.
it's an active circuit.
probably much more effective than the passive circuit we've been looking at.
unk
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Post by dunkelfalke on Sept 15, 2006 9:38:05 GMT -5
i know  no need to fear active electronics |
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Post by UnklMickey on Sept 15, 2006 12:31:34 GMT -5
"We fear change."
-- G. Algar
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Cenulab
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
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Post by Cenulab on Sept 15, 2006 13:59:31 GMT -5
Like Mike Richardson above, I tried something similar from a different supplier and over-all wasn't too thrilled. I put in a separate switch to bypass, and no matter how cool of a sound I though I'd have dialed in with the mid boost/cut, it would always sound better when I turned it off...
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Cenulab
Apprentice Shielder
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
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Post by Cenulab on Sept 15, 2006 13:59:56 GMT -5
Like Mike Richardson above, I tried something similar from a different supplier and over-all wasn't too thrilled. I put in a separate switch to bypass, and no matter how cool of a sound I though I'd have dialed in with the mid boost/cut, it would always sound better when I turned it off...
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mwmoriarty
Rookie Solder Flinger
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Post by mwmoriarty on Jul 8, 2019 0:11:13 GMT -5
I have been looking for something similar but my my intention is to create two bandpass filters, one for bass and one for treble.
The Jazzmaster I have has a high cut and low cut based on one being a 1M pot with .033uF cap in series with each other and the other having a 50K pot with a .0022uf cap in parallel to each other. I have never really been too impressrd with how they work.
Ideally, I would like to use a pot, cap and inductor as that is the ideal way to create a bandpass filter. Unfortunately, you need really high value inductors in order to couple with what we normally use for caps and pots in the guitar setting.
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Post by thetragichero on Jul 8, 2019 8:02:12 GMT -5
seems to be trivial with active circuits and nigh impossible with passive
and if I'm doing this much active (besidessay a preamp in my bass), why not wire it up in a box with a switch i can control with my foot instead of trying to fit it all in the guitar?
as the man would say, simplicity is
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Post by sumgai on Jul 8, 2019 10:48:05 GMT -5
Daaayyyaaammmm, a new record for resurrecting old/near-dead threads - 13 years, minus a couple of months!
mwmoriarty,
Hi, and  to The NutzHouse! 
As you can see from the diagrams and descriptions above, a basic passive bass-cut/treble-cut circuit is actually best described as a bandpass filter. But the values you stated are pretty far out of line with the standard modus operandi, as espoused by many, many websites, besides ours. I wonder if you could please post a diagram of your particular circuit, I'm sure that others besides myself would like to see what you've got.
tth's reply to you is pretty much spot on - active filtering is dead-on trivial, whereas passive controls always induce a loss of perceived overall signal strength. However, I'll go so far as to admit that many, perhaps most, guitar players prefer to have their basic tone-shaping controls near to hand. In this manner, they can get their best tone without having to cart around other, external, devices. When the need for paucity arises.
But I'm not one to talk, I removed my factory pickups and controls entirely, and ran an after-market hex pickup through a gaggle of Roland boxes. You know, modelers and synthesizers, and stuff like that. 
HTH
sumgai
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