Tele Wiring :)

[beetroot]

Hey, Im fairly new at wiring and such but ive had a go at drawing my own schematics or whatnot.

what im looking for is a nashville tele that i can have the neck and bridge on at the same time.

below is a picture (if it works) of my rendition, could someone tell me if this is right and if not tell me how to make it work?



thanks , casey

[JohnH]

Hi Beetroot - welcome to the club

I think your wiring is basically OK subject to the following:

The capacitor that you show is in the position of a treble bleed cap, which preserves treble as you turn down the volume, compensating for loss due to cable capacitance. Thats fine, and 500pF to 1nF is a good range to try. 1nF will actually get a bit brighter at lower volume, which may be what you want. For a more neutral treble bleed, 1nF in parallel with a 220k resistor I find works well.

Theres no tone cap shown there. It would go from tone pot centre lug to ground - which could be just the adjacent grounded tone pot lug.

The switch looks like it is as on a Strat, to switch three pups. Because it is really a rotary switch mounted on a bracket, and we are wiring from the back, the neck lugs are nearest the bridge and vice versa. So swap connections for neck and bridge lugs.

That should do it and it should work.

If you want, you can delete a couple of wires Theres no need for wiring to the other side of the switch, so you could delete that. You could just wire from the switch common (lower left) to tone pot (upper lug) to volume (lower lug).

Good luck and let us know if it works or if theres any problems.

John

[setain]

I see only problem with you're diagram: You have the switch labeled as Neck-On, but it'll turn on the bridge. It'll accomplish the same thing, however.

[JohnH]

Yep - you are right Setain. So when the bridge and neck connections are swapped as I suggest, leave the neck-on where it is and then it will work on the neck, or move it also and it will then be a bridge-on

J

[beetroot]

Hey guys, much appreciation for your help.
ive done what you said and ended up with this ( I wasnt too sure on the tone cap)



will that do the job? because it looks really empty lol

[JohnH]

A couple of other gremlins have crept in:

The wire from the neck-on to top-right on the 5-way switch should move to volume pot lower lug.
The cap on the tone pot (0.022uF? - or your choice )needs to connect to the tone pot centre lug, not the lower lug
The treble bleed cap (500pf to 1nF) on the volume pot was right before, it goes from centre to lower lug on the volume pot

cheers

John

[UnklMickey]

johnh said:

A couple of other gremlins have crept in:

The wire from the neck-on to top-right on the 5-way switch should move to volume pot lower lug.
The cap on the tone pot (0.022uF? - or your choice )needs to connect to the tone pot centre lug, not the lower lug
The treble bleed cap (500pf to 1nF) on the volume pot was right before, it goes from centre to lower lug on the volume pot

cheers

John

And...

The upper lug of the volume pot needs to connect to ground
The wiring looks a little empty, because you haven't drawn the wires from the pickups to ground. You would have figured that one out straight away, though.

[JohnH]

Yes to what Unk says! (its usually the best response, well sometimes, at least in this case
J

[beetroot]

OK thanks heres the latest, ive removed the treble bleed and ill add it later on if i feel the need. heres what ive got



is that ok??

[JohnH]

It looks like a good one to me!

John

[beetroot]

thanks for your help its much appreciated, very very much appreciated lol.

ill keep on coming back for help with other things lol

thanks

[ChrisK]

You can use this for a reference:


You can use this as a starting point:
www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/telecaster/0135300_02B/SD0135300_02BPg2.pdf

Just connect the switch from the bridge hot wire to the neck hot wire for use in both bridge and neck selection positions, or (although you didn't differentiate whether you want the neck to be added to the bridge position selection or the bridge added to the neck position selection) connect which ever one that you want added from that pickups respective hot wire via the switch to the output pole on the switch.


Also, based on the Fender diagram, I don't agree with where you think that the common pole terminal is on the switch side that you've shown. I could be wrong, but here's what I think (both Fender and GuitarNuts[1] agree with me)...
guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=1158705194


Also, if you happen to get the bridge/neck wiring/selection direction reversed (the middle is usually always in the, er, middle), you can just rotate the selector switch 180 degrees and reattach it.

[JohnH]

Chris - I think beetroot is right enough topographically, in that the poles are bottom left and top right lugs, viewed from the back, as he has them. The difference to the true appearance is in the half-step offset from left to right sides. On the diagram, the right lugs should be moved down instead of up.

The lug numbering is not important, but whichever way you mount the switch, the lever knob direction is always opposite to the position of the connected pole, so neck pup always wants to use the lug nearer to the bridge etc.

John

[ChrisK]

I just wanted to point this out to be sure. I have seen some switch drawings that led the user quite astray, especially when they're looking for a wire routing diagram without full understanding of electronics.

I'm particularly wary of lever switches in that I helped someone some time back that swore they were drawing it exactly as they represented (except that they had the terminals wrong and the switch left/right reversed compared to how they'd actually wired it). This was only determined after some prolonged effort.

The beauty of (most) lever switches is that one CAN SEE EXACTLY what they do.

When we get the wiring help section to include some component templates and some TinyCAD (or whatever) drawings going, this type of effort should be much easier. Having "standard" wiring diagrams for "standard" guitars will be a great starting place.

I never build anything without testing the components as well as I can. I'm less than interested in repairing something for a bad component before I even get to use it. While I'm at it, I record such info for later use. I didn't get most of the info in my templates from somewhere else, I looked at, tested, and recorded empirical data.

The lug numbering is not important, but whichever way you mount the switch, the lever knob direction is always opposite to the position of the connected pole, so neck pup always wants to use the lug nearer to the bridge etc.

Yep, levers, toggles, and bears, oh my (see saws are).