|
Post by tripleclutcher on Apr 3, 2008 18:02:03 GMT -5
I'm plotting how to rewire a single HB guitar to where I just have a couple switches for controls -- one kill switch, and the other to function as a very simplified tone control (ie: one position completely open, the other mimicking a tone knob turned to zero). how exactly would I accomplish this? I know I'd need some kind of combination of resistor and capacitor, but beyond that I'm not sure.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Apr 3, 2008 18:31:07 GMT -5
For completely open, you need absolutely nothing. For completely turned down to zero, you only need the capacitor. If one wants to get in between these two states, one will need the resistor also. To find said value of resistor, connect a tone pot and cap across the pickup and adjust the pot for the desired attenuation. Measure the pot. Buy the resistor. Have the switch connect them in series across the pickup when needed.
Now, one DOES have to pick a capacitor. For a humbucker, 0.022 uF (22 nF) is a good choice.
Plotting, eh?
|
|
|
Post by newey on Apr 3, 2008 18:49:07 GMT -5
TC-
What you want sounds quite close to an Esquire wiring scheme, just minus the knobs. An Esquire diagram might be a good starting point, at least it would show the cap and resistor tone wiring you mention.
You could wire a standard 3-way to give you Kill/"open" (as you call it)/ Bassy tone circuit with a resistor and cap. Or you could use two toggle switches as you suggest.
As far as a full drawing, that will need to await more expert opinion.
|
|
|
Post by tripleclutcher on Apr 4, 2008 1:04:01 GMT -5
here's what I have sketched up so far: no idea if this'd actually work in practice though. I'm leaning toward the two mini switches for ease of use purposes, though my original plan of putting them through the old volume/tone knob holes in the pickguard probably won't work out unless I find 3/8" toggles, or at least an easy/reliable way to keep the regular 1/4" ones in there.
|
|
|
Post by newey on Apr 4, 2008 5:39:37 GMT -5
TC-
Good looking diagram- and I think it will work as you propose. However, you should await a more definitive opinion- notice the word "think" in that sentence.
I don't know if toggles with a 3/8" shaft are available or not, you should check several of the electronics supply houses listed on the Links page, somebody might have just what you need. You won't find such a switch at any of the guitar parts retailers, however.
2 possibilities come to mind. You could fashion a control plate to mount over the existing holes out of a scrap piece of pickguard material, then you can drill whatever size holes you need in it. Or you could use a pair of large washers, one on each side, top and bottom, of the existing holes, to act as a reducer.
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Apr 4, 2008 7:01:21 GMT -5
That should work.
The kill switch doesn't really need the jumper on the bottom. You could just connect the right side to ground and be done with it.
The tone switch doesn't need the DPDT really either. An SPST on/off switch would work fine, and far less soldering.
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Apr 4, 2008 7:36:24 GMT -5
Yep, SPST for both (switch the cap to ground, switch the output to ground). Just connect the terminals on the switches that you need.
You now have a 2 bit digital guitar!
|
|
|
Post by tripleclutcher on Apr 4, 2008 11:20:31 GMT -5
yeah, I based the switching around the kill switch diagram on Seymour Duncan's site, but if it can be done simpler then great!
as a showy aside, there wouldn't be enough current in the guitar's wiring to power a switch with an LED, right?
|
|
|
Post by ChrisK on Apr 4, 2008 16:01:05 GMT -5
No, only a DED (Darkness Emitting Diode).
|
|
|
Post by kuzi16 on Apr 5, 2008 9:16:24 GMT -5
i dont know how you feel about a varitonebut the varitone is just about the same thing you have going on there in your diagram but on a rotery switch. this way if you cant decide on just one cap you can have a bunch. ... it was just a thought.
|
|