In reading this thread I almost freaked thinking of what a pain in the rear this was going to be. Someone on that thread suggested that wires could be spliced? Could that be done? just lift up the pups snip the wires and splice in the new ones? By the way i'm trying to install a set of "Custom Vintage" P90 from GHS. Thanks.
It gets even worse that The Unkster told you. If you 'break' a wire to make a splice, you've just opened up yet another avenue for hum to leak in. Those cables out of the pickups are shielded for a reason, and messing around with them is cardinal no-no.
If by chance you meant, "taking the wires off the old pickup, and splicing the new pickup back to those wires", I would highly dis-recommend this action. The wire on the pickup itself is very fragile, and just a slip of the iron (pushing against the wire), or too much heat for too long, a lot of things can go wrong here. If you aren't an experienced tech, don't do this.
It may seem like a PITT, but doing your work on the controls/switch end of the cabling will reduce your need for Rogaine.
Post by UnklMickey on Apr 18, 2006 11:06:27 GMT -5
Thanks. Where would one get such a thing? Would that be easier? Sounds like it would be cleaner?
where? probably newark, or mouser would have them. also computer parts houses. i'm thinking molex, the same kind of connectors you would find in the power connections to the disk drive, fan, etc in your computer.
easier? quite possibly. those connector are generally sold as parts: the shells and pins are individual items. also, the pins are available in either solder or crimp connections. so the "snip and splice" concept you mentioned might be a possiblity, with the crimp connections.
Cleaner? no, as Sumgai mentioned, there would be a small section at the connector where the signal lead and the shield would be side-by-side rather than the shield covering the signal lead. not an big issue in a shielded cavity, but i don't think you'll be shielding a hollow-body.
what's that Rune? TONE-foil?
also the plastic shells are light, but if they are laying against the body, you might hear an acoustic vibrations (buzzing).
if you do choose to attempt this, you would prefer the shells that have a locking tab, to prevent any possiblilty of them working their way apart.
if you have the kind of shielded cable where the metal shield doesn't have a plastic covering, you might lessen the "avenue for hum to leak in" by wrapping the connector with foil, the foil would be grounded by contact with the metal shield.
then the whole thing would be wrapped by foam tape, like they use for weatherstripping. that would eliminate the possiblity of acoustic buzzing from contact with the body.
it is much more difficult, but removing all the wiring, re-cabling, and re-installing is "cleaner".
"Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver. " -- Steve Hopton
"some people say happiness is just a State of mind...................... i think it should be a whole freakin' Country!" -- unklmickey