The short answer is "yes", but the combinations may not be in the order you asked for. And I have to admit that I haven't worked it all out for myself, but it seems to me that what you are asking for might still require the 4PDT switch shown in Mike's diagram. What kind of push-pull switch did you order/already have in your hands?
So I've decided to test my electrical engineering skills...(I'm a mechanical engineer)
Uh oh. I'm already concerned.
(BTW, I'm an electrical engineer.)
I'm looking at using a super switch and a push pull pot to do the Mike Richardson 2.0 mod.
Good, since one does need both of these therefore.
The pickups I'm using are the Custom Shop Fat 50s, which I believe only have a ground wire and a hot wire off of each pickup (should be here today UPS).
Ok, let's START by stating that these pickups (and most others) do not have a "ground" wire and a "hot" wire, but rather have a wire that is normally connected to the internal ground point and a wire that is normally connected to the internal signal output point. These designations are used in normal (pedestrian) guitar wiring to ensure proper output signal phasing.
I start this "semantic trouble" anew again here since the MR scheme also connects pickups in series, which is confused by the artificial designation of wires from a pickup being the "ground" and "hot" leads.
For the advanced wiring (and really all wiring, but then there's that whole tremo'Leo thing), I prefer to use "signal output" and "signal return" designations for the leads.
Can this be done?
Yes, done is.
And does anyone have a complete schematic?
More or less, done is.
I've been trying to sketch it out, but keep going in circles.
Why, done is? (But fun is too.)
These answers are related to the MR wiring scheme(s, there are a few), which alreadyexist. (Hence the designation as the XXX scheme/mod/design/etc.)
Now, do you want us to help you by directing you to the existing exact solution (which I know how to implement, and most recently discussed/posted with someone a'board), by helping you derive said solution (which we can do, but I won't since done is), or since you are threatening to "test your electrical engineering skills", watch you flap aboot fer a spell and then direct you to the existing exact solution.(which I AM willing to partake therein)? ;D ;D
So, "neo-Sparky", what will it be?
(BTW, the StewMac pp pot switch is a DPDT. There is a 4PDT pp pot, it's called the Fender S-1 pot/switch.)
It is wise to be concerned when a ME attempts to be a EE
Actually, no. It is more difficult to teach a ME things EE than an EE things ME due to the much more (although not as much with modeling today) abstract nature of "stuff".
I'd spent the last 20+ years doing technology start-up companies for acquisition, so I've "not" done my share of mechanical engineering as well (it was my money in too, and when it's YOUR money................)
Incidentally (co- since the threads have floated together), the MR thread for nearly the SAME thingy (MR 1.0) is adjacent to this one (ironiguana rewired his "ongoing testing of his EE skills" and has posted his resistance results. Mike Richardson wiring help).
I will respond to ironiguana's post with said type of analysis which will not only tell me if he has wired it correctly, but also the resistance value of his pickups and the wiring structures actually realized.
Specific mods are difficult to find if they surfaced under another discussion topic. I readily found these by searching a'board for "mike richardson' for 500 days and 100 posts. Here's the original Mike Richardson Strat design (1.0) (well, after the super switch was changed away from the DiMarzio one).
Here's the MR (2.0) one that does M and B * M + N instead of B + M and B * M. I haven't checked to see if it does B * (M + N) or (B * M) + N (Q.E.D.).
Yeah, the phase switch/tone pot module has two "goes-inta's" (the pickup leads) and two "goes-outta's" (the tone pot connection points to the MR scheme). Just remove the switch part and connect the pickup wires to the tone pot and then to the MR wiring.
Methinks you've forgotten MR's cocktail-napkin exhortation: connect the A's and X's together. I don't see anything between terminals 1, 2 and 3 of the M+ pole and the hot side of the volume control - the two "A" connection labels.
Your Middle pickup is phased correctly, but your Neck pickup is reversed. Still, that only affects the tone, not the actual pickup selection, so it's not the cause of your problems.
Plus, take a closer look at your tone controls, I don't think either of them is doing you any favors. Hint: when dealing with tone controls in a series connection, you cannot connect them in the usual fashion of "hot" lead to one side of the cap, and the other side to the pot and thence on to ground. If you select a series connection with that scheme, you'll kill some or all of the output. The answer is to connect the cap-and-pot directly across the desired pickup. That way, the control works for both parallel and series selections.
Rule #1: All Lives Are Final. Make sure that the life you have just been issued is appropriate for your needs, before departing the womb.
Rule #2: In case you don't like the life you have, see Rule #1.
For the tone controls to work correctly (if at all) they need to be across just the pickup that they're for. This means two caps and NO common connection.
Connect the bridge pot and cap directly across the bridge pickup at the mega switch. This will be bridge (+) and local ground.
Connect the neck pot and cap directly across the neck pickup at the mega switch. This will be "out" and neck (-).
I would fix the tone circuits FIRST since the inadvertent paths thru them may be causing at least some of your problems.
I'm also unclear on just what the tone pot drawings mean. The volume pot is clear due to the presence of the attached switch. A small circle indicating the location of the pot body would be most helpful. I suspect that you are showing the usual Strat orientations, but I can't be sure.
Same as Jon, I don't see (on your modded diagram) where the A's are connected. The volume control's Hot terminal should be getting signal from:
terminals 3, 4, and 5 of the Middle '+' pole; terminal 5 of the Bridge '+' pole; the diagonal pins on the DPDT switch; and the Neck '+' lead.
Of the bunch, only the Neck '+' lead is shown at the Hot terminal.......
(I've reversed the numbering from my previous post, I has somehow forgotten that MR assembled his diagram backwards, numbering the positions from right to left instead of the usual way. )
I missed it last time (nor did Chris catch/correct it), but you also don't show a connection from Middle '-' to ground at terminal 2.
I know that it's sometimes a real bear to draw something out like this, but the upside is, as you see a connection on the guitar, you check it off on the original schematic, and then draw it on paper, before moving on to the next connection. When you're all done, there should be a check mark by each wire on the schematic.
Since I didn't do the job, and since I don't have the article in front of me to make the drawing myself, I have to trust that you drew what you saw, and only what you saw. That leads to my concerns, outlined above.
Until you swear on a stack of Bibles that the drawing (this one or a new one) is correct against both the guitar (as-built) and against the schematic, then I don't want to spend time on guessing why Position 4 doesn't work.......... it'd be too much like work or sumpin'.
And no, your caps aren't toasted. If either of them were, then you'd know it - either the control would do nothing, or it'd make like a volume control, and kill all signal when turned down.
Ok, we have some new values. This will be much harder than it should be. When I talk about using a 5K/10/20K values for the three pickups to test the wiring (neck is 5K, middle is 10K, and the bridge is 20K), I mean it.
If you replace the pickups with these values of fixed resistance, it will be quickly obvious what's going on. Get 5 each 10K resistors.
Put two in parallel across the neck pickup connection points (5K).
Put one across the middle pickup connection points (10K).
Put two in series across the bridge pickup connection points (20K).
Values now: (kOhm) Pot Down: 1) 5.94 (one pickup) 2) 5.90 (another pickup, but just one) 3)2.68 (two in parallel) 4) 268 (Volume pot only, someone's AWOL) 5)17.35 (?three in series - wrong time zone)
1)17.49 (?three in series - right time zone) 2)11.87 (?two in series) 3) 5.92 (?one in series, someone's "short's" are in a, uh, short) 4) 268 (Volume pot only, someone's "short's" are open) 5) 5.91 (?three in parallel - sometwo's AWOL)
Listen to sumgai, wires are awry.
Also, based on your pictoral for the volume pot, it appears to be wired backwards (ground and hot terminals reversed). Are you wiring this left-handed?