Wiring diag 2H, 1V, 1T, 3-way, 2PP (ser/par)

[etgom]

hello everyone, I'm a new wanna be able to wire everything running through my mind lol After carefully reading many posts and searched the net for the wiring diagram I've decided to create for one of my guitars...I've realised how incompetent I am on matter

please HELP ;D

well, I've got a peavey V-Type 2H, 1T, 1V, 3-way and I'd like to modify the pups wiring as follow:

My idea is to substitute both the volume and the tone pots with 2 push/pulls in order to split both humbuckers series/parallel independently and to carry on using the 3-way switch normally (B, B+N, N)

The new volume pot would split the neck pickup whilst the tone pot the bridge one (fortunately both have 4 wires).

Now, I've checked the Duncan's website and there's a clear and simple diagram on how to wire 1H for the series/parallel option. I think that with a second H the diagram would be the same, however, I've no idea on how to wire the 3-way in order to make it works.

I've the feeling that is something very easy...but at the moment I'm not able to do it myself

Is there anyone who has done something like this yet or knows where I might find a wiring diagram that suits my need?

Sorry for the long post and thank you in advance

Luca, UK

[D2o]

Hi etgom, and WELCOME to GN2!

I don't have an easy answer yet, but the first thing that jumped into my mind was an older Peavey guitar called the "T-60", from the 70's and 80's I believe.

It had quite advanced electronics for it's day, and I wonder if there would be any possibilities for you in looking into the wiring for that guitar ...

Anyhoo, someone will likely be along with an easy answer soon enough. For now, I'll just be the greeter ....

... some days I'm the windshield, some days I'm the bug.

D2o

[ChrisK]

Welcome a'board.

however, I've no idea on how to wire the 3-way in order to make it works.

As it stands now, you have one wire from each pickup (hot) going to the 3-way switch. There are probably two wires from each pickup that are connected together (for the coils in series), and one wire from each that is grounded.

After you implement the series/parallel push pull switch wiring, there will still be only one wire (hot) coming from this switch going to the 3-way switch and one wire coming from this switch going to ground.


Note the color of the current wires from each pickup going to the 3-way switch (hot) and to ground.

Note the colors of the two wires on each pickup that are connected together. Using a digital multimeter, measure the resistance of each of these wires to the ground wire, and to the wire (hot) going to the 3-way switch for each pickup. Use the 20K ohm scale. Note which one has measurable resistance (not "1" or open) to the ground wire and which one has measurable resistance to the hot wire (on the 3-way). This measurable resistance pairing indicates the wires for each coil.

In series, these two wires are connected as they currently are. In parallel, the wire paired with the ground wire goes to hot, and the wire paired with the hot lead goes to ground.


In essence, the series/parallel switching is just an intra-pickup affair (a submodule if you will). This switching is done between the existing pickup and the existing 3-way wiring.


I hope that this helps.

[etgom]

Hi D2O,

Thank you for your suggestion, I've checked that model out and I was actually quite surprised about the technology behind the T-60!!!

However, the electronic configuration is completely different from my V-Type so I won't be able to use the diagrams I've found concerning the T-60.

Thank you for your help anyway, it's much appreciated

Luca

[etgom]

Hi ChrisK,

Thank you for your advice ;D I was thinking that since I'm using 2 duncans I could be modifying the wiring diagram for 1H available on the duncan's website and adapt it to 2H plus a 3-way switch.

This is the 1st attempt to draw a wiring diagram and I have to say that is awful I've thought that since 2+2=4 then I might be connecting the 3-way switch to the push-pull according to the colours of the wires and get the result hoped...

The only doubt (well the main one ;D) is that if you look at how the volume is wired you'll see a connection from the hot tag on the push-pull to the tag3. I've thought that since volume and tone are connected...I could avoid to do the same when I'll wire the tone...is that idea correct?

For the sake of simplicity I've attached a picture

Hope it's what I need to do lol

Thank you

Luca

s379.photobucket.com/albums/oo232/Etgom/?action=view¤t=1h_1v_1t_sp.jpg"

[D2o]

Nov 12, 2008 4:19:08 GMT -5 etgom said:

Hi D2O,

Thank you for your suggestion, I've checked that model out and I was actually quite surprised about the technology behind the T-60!!!

However, the electronic configuration is completely different from my V-Type so I won't be able to use the diagrams I've found concerning the T-60.

Thank you for your help anyway, it's much appreciated

Luca

You are welcome, Luca.

And you are, of course, correct on all accounts.

After the reference to the T-60 technology popped into my head and was posted, a picture of it popped into my head. You are right - I believe the T-60 has, among other things, 2v2t.

But, yeah, quite surprising technology for the time.

D2o

[ChrisK]

[etgom]

Eureka ChrisK,

You're a legend!!!! I see that what I thought it might have worked...was actually a good attempt to make my pups exploding

In the weekend I'll have some wiring work to do then!!!

Then in a month I'll probably be thinking to wire a Robin I've recently bought (it was probably 1 of the better deals of the century!!!) ;D

Thank you

Luca

[D2o]

Eureka ChrisK, You're a legend!!!!

Then in a month I'll probably be thinking to wire a Robin I've recently bought (it was probably 1 of the better deals of the century!!!) ;D

Robin ... nice! ;D

D2o

[etgom]

Robin ... nice! ;D


You can definitely say that!!! Guess I've bought a Robin Medley Standard IV (1992) for less than $350!!! Well there are no pickups and the body was re-painted but everything else is original.

The guy who sold it to me had replaced the bridge so he gave me the original one still immaculate to mount ;D

I'm very happy with it !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Luca

[etgom]

Hi ChrisK,

I've finally managed to find some time to do the new pickups wiring to one of my 2 V-type.

It was successful only in part though...the good thing is that now I've got both the neck and the bridge pups playable either in series or in parallel and I've got to say that's much better to my ears than the typical coil split.

However, somehow someway I've also managed to transform both the pots into 2 volumes!!!! The normal volume works normally...the tone instead doesn't work anymore and when I close it it kills the volume

The guitar to produce some sound must have both the volume and the tone opened or it won't work!!!! Damn it lol

Any thought about it??

The only thing I did differently was to wire the Neck H to the tone instead than to Volume and viceversa with the Bridge H.

To be honest I've always kept the tone open so from a certain point of view I don't mind if it works or not but this time I had used also a Sprague Orange Drop to improve the tone ;D

Anyway, I'm going now, I'm starvingggggg

Cheers guys,

Luca

[ChrisK]

The only thing I did differently was to wire the Neck H to the tone instead than to Volume and viceversa with the Bridge H.

Does this mean that you interchanged the wiring from each pickup to the push pull switches on the pots without changing the pot wiring itself, or does it mean something else?

...the tone instead doesn't work anymore and when I close it it kills the volume

This seems like either a shorted capacitor (or a value waaaaay too large), or a short in the wiring to the capacitor. If the wiper of the tone pot was shorted to its case (and the case was grounded), it would function as an output shunt.

Can you post a dpic of your pot wiring?

[etgom]

Well my idea was to wire the bridge H to the tone and the neck H to the volume but only for a matter of preference.

Both H work but to pass from series to parallel the tone split the neck H and the volume the bridge H (I wanted the opposite... )

As for the capacitor I've used a sprague orange drop .022@100V (but I think I should have used the .022@400V)

Anyway, tomorrow I'm busy but next saturday I'll fix the problem once and for all ;D and I might be trying with another capacitor (that @400v).

Next time I'll also take pictures

[ChrisK]

Well my idea was to wire the bridge H to the tone and the neck H to the volume but only for a matter of preference.

That's what the drawing showed to begin with.

You haven't answered my question.

"Does this mean that you interchanged the wiring from each pickup to the push pull switches on the pots without changing the pot wiring itself?"

I need an exact answer to ensure that something didn't get mixed up when you moved things around. This determines how I think anymore about your circuit problem.

As for the capacitor I've used a Sprague Orange Drop .022@100V (but I think I should have used the .022@400V)

No.

The tone capacitor will be exposed to a maximum of perhaps 5 VAC under any possible conditions, including an attack with a particle beam weapon. For tone controls, in a passive guitar circuit, 25 VDC is more than enough.

[etgom]

Well, I know everyone is gonna laugh at me... when I removed the backplate and checked how the wiring was done, for some kind of unknown reason I decided that the gray cable coming from pickups was that of the bridge H and the black one that of the neck H.

Said so I wired everything like it was shown in the diagram but making an "innocent" mistake of confusing the pickups cables....

In light of this fact I guess I can say that I changed the wiring of the pickups without changing that of the pots

At this point I think that when I'll solder everything at the right place I might get the results I want!!! won't I?

Thanks for your help and patient guys lol (I'm pretty much sure I'll stress you even more when I have to deal with the Robin since I'd like to do the same wiring of this V-Type but with a 5-way switch ;D)

Luca

[etgom]

haya guys I've finally solved the problem!!! I've re-wired everything at the correct place and now all work fine!!!!

Since yesterday I was afraid to try this stuff with my duncan pups i used the original peavey ceramic H and I've to say that they sound pretty good...the output is slightly lower than the JB but since I've raised the bridge H almost at the level of the strings it now sounds very hard rock ;D

The tone pot works perfectly as well and I've had the impression that with this cap (sprague orange 0.022uF @ 100V) the sound is brighter.

I might be trying to record some audio samples the only problem is that I don't think my logitech mic would give justice to my sound

Anyway I'm going to check if my mighty delicious chili is cooking properly

Speak soon, cheers

Luca

[newey]

Etgom-

Glad you're happy with the results of your mod!