Strat Lovers "Other" question

[keving]

Have a Squier with a YKE 5 way. Just wanted to make sure I am understanding JohnH's wiring so I get it right.

guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=3130

I think I picked up the "Hot/Not" descriptors from another thread.



As drawn, if the lever is all the way to the left (closest to fretboard) , the neck pup is on, yes?
I suppose I could reverse the switch if I get it backwards but I'd like to get it right first time and hopefully learn something in the process.

I would like to thank all the moderators and you long-time "nutz" contributers for your patience, helping us newbies though you may have answered the same question many times. You make this site what it is-great!

[newey]

Keving-

As drawn, if the lever is all the way to the left (closest to fretboard) , the neck pup is on, yes?

Depends on whether we are looking at the switch from the bottom up or from the top down. The convention is to display switches from the bottom, as if you were looking from the underside of the pickguard.

If this is drawn looking from the bottom up, then I think it's ok.

[JohnH]

keving - i think you have the right idea. My intention was that the red wires were the hot ones. But with a simple single-coil pickups with two plain wires, it doesnt matter if they all get reversed.

Just looking back at that diagram 2 1/2 years later, you should check your switch. I believe that at least some 8-in-line switches have the two poles permanently joined within the switch - thats the two central lugs. If so, then the trace that links them on the switch would need to be cut to use that diagram.

Another comment since I did the diagram - for the treble bleed, I now use a 220k resistor in parallel with the 1nF cap, using a log volume pot. Otherwise, theres too much treble at lower volume.

cheers

John

[keving]

Ah, yes that makes sense. I don't know the age of the guitar, but the YKE has a jumper across the center lugs so I assume it's not connected internally. Thanks for the Cap resistor tip too!

[keving]

So all wired up and ready to rock-not. Curiously the only sounds are Bridge and middle(in and out of phase), but not either by themselves? So I begin to retrace the wiring. First stop, the 5 way connections and voila: I have a 7 contact switch, not an 8 contacts as in the diagram. Don't ask me how I overlooked that while I was wiring!

So is this mod still possible with my existing switch? There is an unused contact on the switch diagram so the # of wire connections is the same.

[newey]

So is this mod possible with my existing switch?

Probably, but we need more info on this switch. ChrisK has a post on Offshore lever switches, but a quick peek there did not disclose any 7-lug switches. Take a look anyway, see if yours matches up.

If not, it's time to break out your multimeter. You will need to dewire the switch first to check for continuity between the various poles. Be sure to remove the jumper you referred to earlier.

I suspect the difference is that you have only a single "common" lug instead of 2, as in the 8-lug types. But that's a suspicion only. And, the jumper you mentioned between the center lugs doesn't make much sense if that were the case. Come to think of it, there wouldn't be 2 lugs "in the center" if there's only 7 lugs . . .

While dewiring the switch to check it seems like a lot of work (I know, I know . . . ) you'll save yourself a lot of grief in the long run.

Post the results, tell us which lug connects to which, and we can then work out how to modify the diagram for this switch.

And, if you can get some photos of the switch along with the pole assignments. we'll add it to chrisK's reference posting. Also, check to see if there is a model no. or other identifying info on the switch, we may be able to search the web for pole assignment info on it.

[keving]

I have not seen this switch anywhere else. It never seemed to match any of the stock Squier wiring diagrams, or mods I have seen here and elsewhere. I'll run the test and report back. Thanks for the help!

[ashcatlt]

We have seen these things pop up before. I can't think of any search terms which might find the appropriate threads. Standard strat wiring only requires 7 lugs (actually 6, if the two commons are internally connected). I don't know why, but some manufacturers leave off the superfluous 8th. I suspect it's one of the extreme end lugs missing. That is, the lug which would not be connected to a tone pot on a standard strat 5-way.

You'd ought to still be able to use it, but you'll have to swap your "hot" and "not" sides. Don't transpose any of the wiring, just move them so that the missing lug is in the spot which has nothing connected. Might mean spinning the switch around.

[JohnH]

My version needed the two seperate poles of an 8 lug switch. But the original version of the design:



..only uses one pole (see second diagram on that page), and the difference is that some coils are not completely disconnected. Slight risk of some noise, but probably OK, especially with shielding.. Sound options are equivalent. So you could revert to that with the switch you have. Or get a new switch for $10

John

[keving]

I got out the voltmeter and tested the lugs which left me COMPLETELY kerflumoxed.
Fortunately I found these on axesrus.com:

[JohnH]

Odd switch!

The way it is wired, it would work with the order being:
1a
1b
1c
both Poles A and B
2a
2b
2c

But if its like that, it would not need the 4th and 5th lugs joined as they are

But there is another possibility. If its like the pic you posted above, instead of having a shared lug for both poles, it seems to me it could have two seperate poles, but one of them only has connection lugs for two out of three settings, hence, from top to bottom:

1a
2a
3a
PoleA
PoleB
2b
3b

See if your meter can confirm it. If its true, you can use my diagram. Just skip the unused lug on mine, and assume it was the missing switch lug 1b

But do check the switch

cheers

John

[ashcatlt]

Nov 24, 2008 14:57:35 GMT -5 JohnH said:

Odd switch!
But there is another possibility. If its like the pic you posted above, instead of having a shared lug for both poles, it seems to me it could have two seperate poles, but one of them only has connection lugs for two out of three settings, hence, from top to bottom:

1a
2a
3a
PoleA
PoleB
2b
3b

See if your meter can confirm it. If its true, you can use my diagram. Just skip the unused lug on mine, and assume it was the missing switch lug 1b

This is exactly what I said, is borne out by the schematic posted, and jives with the other times we've had folks come through with 7 lug 5 ways.

What kerflumoxxed you? Do you need help with what to check for and how? Need help interpretting the results?

[keving]

I tested all the lugs in all the positions, but really didn't understand what I was looking at.



The wiring diagram jogged my memory because my first mod was adding a "bridge on" and a phase switch and the wiring diagrams didn't jive with the way the switch was hooked up.

And yes, help interpreting/confirming the results, please.

[keving]

If the second lug/pole scenario is correct, would these be the proper connections?

1a - Bhot
2a - Mhot
3a - Nhot
PoleA - Out
PoleB - Bnot
2b - Mnot
3b - Nnot

I'm sure this is as "plain as the nose on my face" to you, but it's all new to me, so thanks for your patience!

[ashcatlt]

Nope, you got you're hots and nots backwarded.