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Post by angelodp on Jan 18, 2009 14:25:16 GMT -5
Hi, I have an early Squier Strat 84'. I want to do a little finish work on the neck. There are a few small gouges. Question is, what was the finish of these Japanese Strats ? My guess is not Lacquer but some other type of clear sealant?
Best Ange
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Post by ChrisK on Jan 18, 2009 16:16:21 GMT -5
It's probably polyurethane, but wait until others chime in.
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Post by cynical1 on Jan 18, 2009 16:26:31 GMT -5
My guess is not Lacquer but some other type of clear sealant? Greetings - Fender generally uses a 100% Poly or UltraViolet cured Resin on Squire, Mexican, Japanese, some USA models. This stuff can be tough. If you really want to remove it all you're probably looking at a mechanical versus a chemical stripper process... Couple of questions first: First off, is the fretboard maple or rosewood? Where are the nicks? If it's just the back and headstock with problems your life is easier. If you're planning on doing the entire neck the process gets more involved. And finally, how bad are the nicks and dings? Sometimes you can "fill" them with Crazy Glue (gel type works best) or a poly finish, sand them flat, re-spray the damaged area and light sand and polish the repair back out. Ain't it great to ask a question and get more questions back? Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by angelodp on Jan 18, 2009 16:30:17 GMT -5
Ok, I really do not want to completely refinish the neck, rather just level out some annoying dings in the back of the neck. Will crazy glue work with poly finish. Can i simply clean the areas and lightly sand scuff and fill in. Lacquer is pretty workable in these circumstances but does not mix well with poly ( is that right ).
A
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Post by cynical1 on Jan 18, 2009 17:27:06 GMT -5
Ok, I really do not want to completely refinish the neck, rather just level out some annoying dings in the back of the neck. Good. Your life just got easier... Yes Yes. If the maple has darkened from the oils on your thumb you can take a cotton swab and some bleach or mineral spirits to remove this. Just dampen the swab, don't saturate it. Wipe it dry, let it sit for a few days if you use bleach, then light sand out the area to be repaired. On a well cured poly base lacquer can be sprayed. If the poly isn't cured well it'll lift it in a heartbeat...and that ain't pretty... Little secret here...Fender has been using a product called Fullerplast for over 45 years. It's essentially a plastic coating they spray on the body to act as a filler...saves time in the mass production process. Then they spray the color and lacquer over it to placate the "nitro" purists. Since your guitar is over 20 years old my guess is the poly will take the lacquer. Test a small spot first before you got nuts on the entire neck. Happy Trails Cynical One |
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Post by ChrisK on Jan 19, 2009 0:50:10 GMT -5
Yikes, the nitro only "breathes" in a prophylactic sort of way. Be sure to practice safe tone.  Fender Guitars the Lacquer Nitro Cellulose Lie - Fullerplast - Fenders ... All Fender Guitars are Poly, Nitro is applied over the poly base coat www.caraguitars.com/contact.asp |
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Post by cynical1 on Jan 19, 2009 1:34:50 GMT -5
Yep, you found the best link on the Internet in regards to the whole "nitro" fallacy. That pretty much spells it out...although the bit about the nail polish remover on somebody's strat...that's just cruel. I first discovered this stuff back in '77. I took a job to strip a Strat and dye it purple. (I still get chills looking at purple guitars) You can't do that with this crap on there. A very old friend who'd been in the business since harps were cool told me what was on the body...seems some Fender rep let it slip at a trade show back in the 60's and he overheard it. You need a sandblaster to get that stuff off...it laughs at 100 grit sandpaper. I had to use emery cloth for a week to get it off. Needless to say, the price on re-staining anything Fender went up exponentially. This is why I smile at all the Nitro purists...if they only knew... Happy Trails Cynical One |
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