I'm in a bit of a pickle. I bought a second-hand Warmoth Jazzmaster. The previous owner specified control routs like a Mustang, except the guitar is routed for two humbuckers, entirely unlike a Mustang.
Does anyone know how the Mustang switches work?
They're ON-OFF-ON switches with eight poles (two rows of four).
The original Mustangs were wired for ON-OFF-ON(Phase reversed)
It's not exactly clear what you mean (well, I was hoping for more complexity). I will presume that you haven't yet discovered pickups inter-wired in series and meant intra-wired in series/parallel and series/reverse series (as your diagram shows).
In this case, one can indeed use the original wiring scheme for the bridge
I can't find any info on how to wire for this switch.
Why do you think that you still need it? (Clues abound.)
Does anyone know how these work?
Yep. It's the fairly pedestrian Double Pole 3 Position slide switch. Each row of four terminals are shorted together, two adjacent terminals at a time. Don't tell anyone, but the guitar parts supply houses waaaaaaaaaaaaay overcharge for them.
Since there are four terminals in each row, but only three positions, it's obvious that the shorting (switching) occurs between adjacent terminals in the same row and not across the columns. This can be easily verified with a digital multi-meter (DMM).
The three sliding states of connectivity;
O O 1 1 O O 2 2 O O 3 3 O O
The two sets of middle poles look redundant, but I'd like to know for sure.
They are no more or less redundant than the other terminals, they're just wired together because the middle position on each switch is an OFF position.
Confidence is a wonderful thing; you should have more of it. You already understand how to do this.
Post by ChristoMephisto on Mar 2, 2009 16:48:50 GMT -5
Here's a link to a site with tons of guitar schems, including plenty of Mustang diagrams. www.geocities.jp/dgb_studio/index_e.htm Just look under the drop down menu of the 'Wiring Diagrams for Guitars' I'm sure you'll be able to find the combo you're looking for
So, this could be considered a double pole triple throw switch, correct?
Uh, no, not always. While it can easily be wired to mimic the DP3T toggle, and usually the DP3T rotary, it's more of a 1.5 to 2.5 pole switch.
(In the same context as 2 + 2 = 5, for extremely large values of 2.)
As long as the pole progression goes "A" to "B", then "B" to "C", and finally "C" to "D", yes.
You can make any two of them wired to each other;
For terminals described this way;
"A" to "B", "B" to "C", "C" to "D"
"A" to "B", "B" to "A", "A" to "D" (one pole of the ON-ON-ON toggle switch)
"A" to "B", "B" to "B", "B" to "D" (one pole of the ON-OFF-ON Mustang switch)
It can also do the series/single/parallel humbucker trick among others.
And, there are more of them critters aboot. Note that I'm calling them XPole YPosition. These are for CW switches alone. www.cwind.com/
DP DP (yawn) DP 3P 3P DP 4P 3P DP 4P
Please note that, while these are very inexpensive switches, they are also very cheap switches. The silver contact plating is designed, rated, and hence suitable for POWER switching. Unless the contacts are gold plated, they are not designed, rated, and hence suitable for long-term reliable dry contact applications such as a passive guitar. The silver contacts are specified at 20 mA DC. This is about 1,000 times more current than a pickup generates when it's output is shorted. They are rated at 0.5 to 16A@125vac.
This might explain why the slide switches used in guitars have a (perchance well earned) reputation as being intermittent. As long as the sliding action of the contacts maintains an oxide free connection, you're ok.
After all, while folks polish their silver, they rarely (have to) polish their gold.
This brings to mind the times past that I was "sliding aboot".
I design my builds in AutoCAD.
Some Tele stuff; With 4-way slides:
A slide switch version of the early ToggleCaster (this pic has been "appropriated" by others in the past);