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Post by angelodp on May 29, 2009 10:19:17 GMT -5
I have a lovely 67 tele that is calling for some work. I need to do the neck pup in wax first off. It squeals like a BLT ... hold the LT. I also want to do the shielding so it would be great to see any gut shots of Tele's you all ight have done the shielding to. I will propose a graphic shortly.
But first I have to try and catch a halibut....my other nutty passion.
cheers Ange
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Post by ChrisK on May 29, 2009 21:07:30 GMT -5
So you fish too, but just for the "halibut".   If I had enough time (and patience) to fish, I'd golf. (I say the same thing about golfing.) Now you realize of course, that if you have an actual '67 Tele, it's worth about $2K to $5K or so in reasonable shape. |
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Post by angelodp on May 29, 2009 21:21:08 GMT -5
Yep, I realize, yup its a 67 in pretty good shape.... it's been dinged up a bit ( shame ) but the neck is superb ( rosewood, candy apple red body ), and I just waxed the neck pickup. So here is the proposed shielding plan ( all will be reversible.... but this guitar will go to my grandkids ).   |
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Post by ChrisK on May 29, 2009 21:31:53 GMT -5
That looks like a wiring plan. I don't see any shielding.... Remember, it's not an isolation cap, but a DC blocking cap. |
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Post by angelodp on May 29, 2009 21:43:42 GMT -5
Ok, I assume the standard shielding of all the cavities as in GNS and the back of the pick-guard.
ange
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Post by ChrisK on May 29, 2009 21:49:37 GMT -5
Did you get the halibut?
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Post by angelodp on May 29, 2009 22:37:52 GMT -5
Not this time.... tough from shore. Plenty of Leopard sharks and shovel nose sharks and perch. It was a glorious day at the shore.
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Post by angelodp on May 30, 2009 10:58:02 GMT -5
So on a tele do I need to isolate the pots from the metal piece they are mounted on in this shielding method.... seeing as that I have linked the back of the pots.
ange
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Post by sumgai on May 30, 2009 14:29:35 GMT -5
ange,
It gets worse.... the output jack is metal, and tied to a metal plate which has controls metal knobs. That means that the amplifier chassis is tied, via the guitar cord, directly to all the exposed metallic parts of your Tele. Unless you start using specific isolation washers, and non-metallic knobs, then you're still somewhat exposed, no matter where you connect that DC surge-slowing capacitor. At that point, the only things being protected are the strings and the bridge.
In my book, that's only going half-way down the road. You might accept that, and I won't think less of you for it, but it's not the whole enchilada. Are you sure you wanna do this?
As much to the point, are you positive your grandkids will be using this thing with an ancient tube amplifier that will have a more-than-zero chance of dumping a large load of DC onto the chassis ground for a moment? Weigh the pros and cons of this mod, particularly in light of the guitar's market value, both now an in the future, before you heat up the soldering iron.
HTH
sumgai
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Post by angelodp on May 30, 2009 19:11:31 GMT -5
Well I sure do not want to destroy the value of this great guitar. Maybe I should not enter these waters. All my amps ( going to kids and grandkids ) are three prong and safe, so the guitar goes with the amps.
ange
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Post by sumgai on May 30, 2009 19:29:46 GMT -5
ange,
Good plan! ;D
sumgai
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Post by gitpiddler on May 30, 2009 22:45:47 GMT -5
Nice piece Ange! I noticed the jack is not necessarily tied to the plate. I think the blue wire between pots isn't needed. I wonder about the intonation with the saddles adjusted in a line. It is a string-thru body, correct? I saw a picture of one with 3 crooked saddles that was adjusted to match the positions of 6 individual saddles perfectly. I replaced the 3-saddles on my Tele-clone because it wouldn't intonate, but I like the steel-sound of the strings tied in pairs. Nice headstock grain. Got a shot of the backside  ? |
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Post by ChrisK on May 30, 2009 23:11:02 GMT -5
angelodp, While I'm not a fan of depending on the blocking cap for self-preservation, the way that you had drawn it was correct. The only component still with a DC connection to the guitar chassis was the jack plate. Make sure that any cavity shielding does not contact the jack plate or jack as this will circumvent the blocking cap. The internal wiring to the blocking cap is correct. The signal return part is on the correct side of the cap. The Tele plate and metal knobs were on the correct side of the blocking cap. Since there is no signal going through the tone pot shell, you do not have to jumper it to the volume pot. I would, but that's because I don't depend on the shield mechanical connection. In the case of a Tele, if there is a jumper and one of the pot mounting nuts comes loose, you'll still have a good connection through the other pot's mounting (however, if they both come loose....). Anyway, don't depend on the cap over other outlet testing and GFCI protection, but you had it correct. |
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Post by sumgai on May 31, 2009 1:18:06 GMT -5
ange, The guys above are correct, I was over-exuberant.   The jack plate and the plug's metal barrel are the only pieces that you could touch that would be unprotected. In the course of operating your machine, you are not likely to be touching the plug at the exact moment your amp takes a dump. It's only when the jack is very close to the controls that this might happen, and I was mixing guitars in my mind, forgetting that yours has the jack mounted well away from the rest of the gizzards. Sorry 'bout that.  sumgai |
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The jack plate and the plug's metal barrel are the only pieces that you could touch that would be unprotected. In the course of operating your machine, you are not likely to be touching the plug at the exact moment your amp takes a dump. It's only when the jack is very close to the controls that this might happen, and I was mixing guitars in my mind, forgetting that yours has the jack mounted well away from the rest of the gizzards.