v. 3.0 is done! I found
www.deaf-eddie.net which helped me sort through what was worth bothering with and what wasn't.
Looks normal (HSS) except for the slide switch between bridge and middle.
I'm not sure how or if I can upload pics yet, so I'll try describing it...which may do more harm than good...
I haven't drawn a 'mechanical schematic' yet, what most people use, because they depend on the particular switches one uses. Mine is a conventional electronic schematic, scrawled on a 3x5 card somewhere. I better get it drawn out properly or I'll lose it.
I put the volume control back where it was, moved the rotary switch from T2 to T1 position and T2 is now a 'master tone' control.
The slide switch and rotary switch in their 'normal' positions ('down' and '1') allow 'normal Strat selection' via the 5-way switch.
Slide switch 'up' puts neck and middle in series like a 'pseudo humbucker'.
3P4T rotary switch adds options:
1) Normal
2) Bridge in series with Neck. Also Bridge-Neck-Middle in series with the slide switch 'up'.
3) Same as above but with 0.018 uF tone cap instead of stock (for my loaded pickguard) 0.033 uF.
4) Bridge in parallel with Neck (and Bridge in parallel with Neck-Series-Middle via the slide switch). Can't be used with 5-way @ Bridge as it disconnects itself (open). (Not one of the desired goals, so I don't see it as an error)
Volume and Master Tone have push-pull switches.
Volume switch pulled out rewires the 4-wire humbucker to Deaf Eddie's 'parallel' in phase single coil option rather than shunt (shorting one winding).
Tone switch pulled out reverses phase of the entire bridge pup wiring 'complex', including the volume pull switch and the 4-position rotary. This was intended partly for versatility and partly to allow alteration of any 'bad' combinations.
Back to 10's again because they don't feel like 12's when they aren't all tuned a string too high (electronic tuner in 'F' instead of 'C' - duh.)
As expected, she doesn't use many of the options, so someday I'll have to do this to one for myself so I can try them all out....
I ended up redoing the grounding for a few reasons, partly being in a hurry and partly wanting to temporarily remove the Guitarnuts safety capacitor to 'system ground' for the strings and bridge as I want a 'real' guitar tech to get the neck set up right...that's not something I see myself learning how to do. I don't want them freaking out and trying to rewire the axe when they find no ohmmeter continuity between the strings/bridge and the output jack ground. I can put the capacitor back in later (in the back cavity).
Edited by newey to fix link.
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