Post by gitpiddler on Oct 15, 2009 22:06:12 GMT -5
Don't think it'll match that hardtail. Cut a block of wood to fit in the back opposite the springs. The Whammy section has a few ideas. I added another block under the springs as well to get more tone on my Kramer Floyd. It helped a little
Wanna hear God laugh? Talk about your plans! Silence is when God speaks. Anything else is just a poor translation. -Rumi
My question is, does it matter what type of wood it is? I have a mahogany body and mahogany neck, w/ an ebony fretboard.
Yeah it does, don't use balsa wood... its really soft ;D
But, it really doesn't matter unless you want a perfect match. Grab a nice solid piece of wood and cut to fit. Just paint it black or close to the color of the body and it will look fine.
I have a piece of wood that sits between the roller nut and pickup on my hollowbody. I have a silver Ibanez Artcore. I grabbed a can of silver paint (the cheapest I could find) and painted the piece of wood. Looks fine from 5 feet away.
If your guitar is stained then just try to stain it to a similar color. It'll be a tad tricky but its going to be under your bridge.
Or you can pull one of these...
That might be what gitpiddler is talking about. If so then great idea man!
Oh yeah, fyi I am not 100% sure as to what your floyd rose is like in comparison to others. I might be giving you the worst advice possible. If I am, just assume I'm an idiot and move on.
Post by vonFrenchie on Oct 17, 2009 13:40:25 GMT -5
If you have three springs, like most thrubody vibratos, use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the spring out at the block. Then slide the wood in (it doesn't need to be as wide as the block is, and put the spring back on. That's the easiest way I can imagine that keeps the springs on and your vibrato semi-secure during the blocking installation.
No problem gitpiddler! Great minds think alike, I was just bored enough to search for a picture.
Post by ijustwannastrat on Oct 17, 2009 13:48:50 GMT -5
Sounds good. While I'm talking about FR's, does anybody know why Eddie did the whole slanted spring thing? I can't find anything to suggest why, but I might not be searching for the right terms.... I know he didn't use floating trems, maybe it's something to do with that?
Post by vonFrenchie on Oct 17, 2009 13:59:07 GMT -5
It might be because closer to maximum stretch, springs have a higher tension thus are harder to move. It's a step between putting in extra springs... I think... this is if my high school physics teacher spoke the truth. Other than that all I know is that he stuck a quarter in between the body of his guitar and his floyd rose because the floyd rose didn't fit right.
Post by ijustwannastrat on Jan 7, 2010 17:45:57 GMT -5
sorry to beat a dead horse. But a quick question.
If I immobilize my Floyd with the 2 wood blocks, will I still be able to hear the springs through the amp? That's one of my favorite things about this beast. The sort of faux-reverb. If you can, I have 2 spare springs laying around. It would be cool to test out which ammount gives the best sound.
Post by dunkelfalke on Jan 8, 2010 17:40:50 GMT -5
oh yes, and i love it. you can divebomb and the vibrato returns to the zero point. you can double-bend without a problem and you can even still upbend with the vibrato, although not by much and you need to apply a lot of force. there is also some additional sustain.
basically the thing hinders the sustain block on moving until you overcome the spring inside it. by tightening the vibrato springs, the vibrato system always goes back until it reaches the black box, but not further (the spring force is not strong enough).
He who lives by the sword, dies by the questionable business model.
Post by RandomHero on Jan 14, 2010 21:01:39 GMT -5
I blocked the Kahler in my Prodigy a long time ago, and came to the conclusion that I liked it better. So I pulled out the Kahler and "blocked" the cavity it came from with a chunk of solid oak. Put a Hipshot on it, and the sustain and tone was night and day, my friend.
Just curious, but why do you want to temporarily immobilize it? It is giving you issues with tuning stability, or do you just have some songs that you bend the strings like crazy?
One way to make it nice and stiff is this: Set up your guitar the way you like it, measure and cut a -single- block of wood to fit exactly between the bridge block and the neck-side wall of the bridge cavity, and load that claw up with a high-tension spring on every notch. It'll stay put, and there's no permanent modification.
Short history - Once, there was GuitarNuts. It fell prey to a maladjusted, teenaged "hacker" wannabe, and I started this board. Hi! =)
Its a clamp that goes in the back. It increases or decreases the tension to the users preference by turning a thumbscrew. Tension can be increased to completely immobilise the bridge to a fixed bridge, or to just be 'dive-bomb only' and still allows free floating (as you just turn the thumbscrew until no tension).
No modification required either, don't need to screw it in plus rather cheap considering what it does. Some the backboxes (such as the ESP or Ibanez version) cost the same and are harder to find.