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Post by aroberts8089 on Jul 14, 2010 14:23:12 GMT -5
My first attempt to work out a new wiring scheme for a sss guitar. I'm hoping someone can look at this diagram and let me know if its clean and will work and might have a better solution. like most red special based wiring, I want to switch each pickup on and in and out of phase individually as well as switch the whole group between series and parallel. The hang up here is I prefer limited switches and I want to do it with only 4 switches. I started out using Unklmickey's 4pdt wiring for each individual pickup to achieve the inphase/off/outofphase aspect, but I can only seem to get the series/parallel part of the wiring down to a single 6pdt switch (not ideal) I'm not even sure if my "theory" is right behind the way I have it wired either this is what I have: does it work as it is? Is there a way to do this with a 4pdt on/on for the s/p instead. I want everything clean, easy to see while playing, no dead combos and no hanging from hot. note: the colors are meaningless, just makes it easier to tell whats going on. Thanks all for your help. Andrew
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Post by JohnH on Jul 14, 2010 16:00:27 GMT -5
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Post by wolf on Jul 14, 2010 16:04:54 GMT -5
aroberts8089Wow three 4PDT switches and one 6PDT switch. I don't know if that will work, but there are some less complicated ways to do this: Two pages from my website: www.1728.com/guitar2.htmIf you don't put on a phase switch then this is a 4 switch circuit. You'll need 3 SPST and 1 DPDT switch. This will easily switch between series and parallel and the only disadvantage is that in some positions, the guitar will go dead. (all 3 pickups in parallel for example). www.1728.com/guitar2a.htmOkay, this is also 4 switches without the phase switch. This will produce any combination of series and parallel that you want. With Series/Parallel switch set to either Series or parallel you can choose any of the single coils. Also, you can get Neck & Middle, Neck & Bridge and Middle & Bridge in either series or parallel. Plus you can get all 3 coils parallel or all 3 in series. Considering all the wiring you seem to be willing to do, I think you'd probably like the second one better. The disadvantages to this circuit is that it requires DPDT switches instead of SPST and it requires a 4PDT switch (which doesn't seem to be a problem for you). Okay, why don't you see if you like those or I am sure someone else will drop in on this topic and offer their suggestions.
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Post by JohnH on Jul 14, 2010 18:53:58 GMT -5
My BM design (and its predecssor ToneMonster2) using a 4pdt series/parallel switch, and Wolfs second diagram are essentially the same, depending how many phase switches are wanted. The series /parallel function works in series, by putting all pickups into one series chain, then shunting unwanted coils to switch them off. This has proven to work well in practice, through several builds by different people.
If you take my BM diagram, you can convert it to work with the 4pdt on-on-on switches that you want, as follows:
Mentally, for each pickup, split each dpdt phase and on/off switch into two separate single poles. Now shuffle them together alternately to form the 4pdt on-on-on, so poles 1 and 3 come from the dpdt on/off switch, and poles 2 and 4 come from the phase switch. Keep all wire connections intact.
Now it should work, so that the on/off function works from the centre position to the up position, and the phase change happens from the centre down. ( or the other way round – youd need to ceck!).
So the end result will be Off (phase reversed) On – phase reversed On – normal phase cheers
John
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Post by aroberts8089 on Jul 15, 2010 8:21:34 GMT -5
Wolf, JohnH, Thanks to both of you for your input on this. I spent a lot of time studying Wolfs designs before trying my own. They're great desings - they just don't quite completely do what I want with just the 4 switches (mainly including in & out of phase). I'll try to work up combining JohnH's design into a single switch and see if that works, I'll post it up here when I'm done so people can poke holes in it. My main problem with designing wiring is that I think to "linearly", it would never even dawn on me to use 1 & 3 for one function and 2 & 4 for the other. JohnH - no problems that you missed my earlier post, I had just assumed I had commited a forum Faux Paus by posting an incorrect question in the finished schematics section. thanks again.
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Post by wolf on Jul 16, 2010 3:04:50 GMT -5
aroberts8089You decided on JohnH's modification, which is fine by me. ( JohnH is quite the electronics wizard). Anyway, have you considered the amount of space that modification will require? I'm guessing that it will occupy (roughly) the space needed for 9 DPDT switches. (see photo) (It seems one 4PDT (blue) = two DPDT switches (red) and one 6PDT (no photo) = three DPDT switches). Another problem could be that having all those out of phase switching options might not be that useful. John Atchley (the founder of the Guitar Nuts I website) has said " ... I've quit building these particular modifications because I didn't find the phasing to be that tonally useful ..." (referring to his 3 switch on/oop/off mod). Okay, I might as well end this on a positive note. (B flat ?) ;D This will give you all the tones of Brian May's modification as well as the four series sounds (N & M; N & B; M & B; N & M & B) he never had. As anyone here will tell you, out-of-phase in series is much better-sounding than oop in parallel. If nothing else, all those phasing modifications presented no problems for Brian May. Also, there must be some benefits to this wiring because Brian May's signature guitar has now been around for nine years: Brian May guitar
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Post by newey on Jul 16, 2010 5:38:35 GMT -5
He had the series sounds, since the stock BM had its 3 pickups wired in series. It was the parallel tones that he lacked- and obtaining those was the focus of JohnH's scheme, done for Killheart7.
As John noted, toggle switches with more than 3 poles tend to get pretty pricey. With 3 4P switches and one 6P, you could easily end up with $40 or more invested in just the switches.
It might well be cheaper to use an appropriate rotary switch, at least for the 6P. Whether turning a knob is better than flicking a switch is, of course, a matter of personal preference.
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Post by aroberts8089 on Jul 16, 2010 8:43:54 GMT -5
Wolf Oh I think your wiring ideas are pretty brilliant as well, they just weren't quite exactly what I was looking for. yep, I'm aware of the space situation with the 4pdt switches, its not a mod though, its a new build, so space isn't an issue. And I like a bit of space between the switches up top so if they are butted up to each other below deck everything should be about perfect.
I was aware of John Atchleys phasing opinion as well, I definitely don't agree when it comes to series, but ymmv. I want the phasing with all three pups so it has all the same options as the Brian May in series mode (my original starting point) but..... sometimes you just want to "roll rover over" - hence the parallel mode.
Newey yep your right, all the series options were there for Brian.
Actually,I was expecting to pay much more then $40 for the 4 switches so if I can keep it that low, I'll be pretty chuffed. I thought about the rotary but I "see" toggles easier, luckily it looks like the 4pdt for series/para is going to work.
I am almost finished modifying the JohnH BM design - just have to study it a bit more for problems and then will post up here for more knowledgable people to flog.
Thanks all again for posting. Andrew
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Post by JohnH on Jul 16, 2010 8:44:56 GMT -5
I think this could work out OK. a 6p switch wont be needed, since the series/parallel switch can be a 4p toggle. Those are about $7Aus down here. The 4p on/on/on's are rarer though, and I have not seen one here but they are available in the US. A bit pricey though, heres mousers one for $23 US: au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7411SYZQE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuIC3ROaEqRYVwmP4uRSNuJBut what I like about the scheme with the three 4p on/on/on's is that it gets all the seperate phase switches off the panel, and it should be possable to let the (slightly fiddly) centre position of the pickup switches be treated as the out of phase setting, so all the main in phase setings are avilable with the switches fully up or down. I do agree that phase switches are less usefull, at least to me. I like them, as a nice puzzle to work out how to do them, and i have them on all my four electric guitars. But I do believe that I have never played more than about two songs with them. But Brian May, and Jimmy Page are well known users! John
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Post by aroberts8089 on Jul 16, 2010 12:33:01 GMT -5
Hey all, heres the new diagram. I think it works....maybe? admittedly, I'm not 100% clear on exactly how shunting works, but I think its right. Comments welcome. Thanks all, andrew
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Post by JohnH on Jul 16, 2010 15:43:28 GMT -5
OK, nice looking job. That deserves a careful check so Ill undertake to do so this weekend. A small point: The series/parallel switch will only need to be a standard 2 position one, not an on/on/on John
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Post by JohnH on Jul 16, 2010 18:54:27 GMT -5
OK, well I've studied the diagram further, in several ways, including turning it upside down, which made some of it relate easier to my version. I've compared wires between diagrams, and also traced through a few setting combinations.
I cant find any problems - nice job! (doesn't mean there arent any though!) +1 to you for a very clear diagram.
So just a few general thoughts:
If you do baulk at buying all those on/on/on's, you are probably up to speed with the fact that you can delete one phase change switch, and not lose any tone combinations. ie, changing one phase is the same as doing the other two.
Personally, to follow your idea, I think I'd put all three in, unless you decided to reduce to just one phase switch, in which case it should be on the neck pup. This is the most powerful pickup and best balances the other two in a reversed phase combo. Also, it maintains access to neck and bridge out of phase (Oop), which is the best sounding and only humcancelling Oop option with three single coils, with middle being RWRP.
Wiring this up will be great entertainment for a wet afternoon. But actually, I think it will go quite well, particularly if your soldering is a neat as your drawing. All the switches are in the same format, with similar lugs on the back, so you can methodically wire it all together quite nicely.
What will you do for pots? You can do a simple master volume and tone, I suggest 500k. If you go for a second tone pot, Id suggest a master tone, and a second tone pot directly across the neck pickup. With the series and Oop settings, this pot will be very powerful in modulating series Oop, and with series in phase, turning down the neck tone with bridge and/or middle will give a whole new range of bright but powerful sounds.
There are also ways to get these extra sounds using the third leg of a single master tone (see most of my recent designs).
BTW - Ive increased my list of out of phase settings that ive ever used from two to three!
1. to approximate the AM radio intro on Pink Floyds 'Wish you were Here' 2. 'Houses of the Holy' by Led Zep 3. A not-too-far-off banjo tone, to accompany a lady with a Stevie Nicks fixation, on 'Landslide'
cheers John
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Post by aroberts8089 on Jul 23, 2010 9:06:38 GMT -5
JohnH, Thanks for double-checking it for me. issue - I knew the on/on/on switch should only be on/on, but just copied it from the other switch note: oops.
There is one thing I want to clean up on the diagram - currently the parallel "hot" wire goes to the 3rd lug on the 1st pole of the 2nd switch - thats different then the other 2 switches and it should be equivelant if flipped to match the other two. I'm also working on a version based on wolfs design which looks like it is wired slightly differently, and a version of my own that totally bypasses each pup in off rather then shunting them. Is there any benefit to one over the other? bypass vs shunting?
I don't balk at buying those on/on/on switches at all - I have always been planning on purchasings 3 DiMarzio switches so its already in my budget. I really like the idea of wiring all the pups the same for consistency. I like the idea of being able to reverse phase any single pickup in relationship to the others with one flip. And even though its more work up front for wiring - its actually simpler for me while playing and in thinking about what each pup is doing at any given moment.
I was planning on a master tone and a master varitone circuit, but I really like your idea of adding the neck tone knob. I will likely add that or replace the varitone with it instead, it actually seems like it might be more useful than a varitone switch.
thanks again.
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Post by JohnH on Jul 23, 2010 17:00:04 GMT -5
The best way to have a pickup 'off' is for it to be disconnected, rather than shunted, but only if it is either fully disconnected at both ends, or it is disconnected at one end and the other is grounded. Having an end grounded is completely fine.
Our current collective theory here is that we dont like having one end disconnected and the other still connected, to hot, or halfway between hot and ground. However, we also have several sucessful designs on GN2 that do require this 'hanging from hot'.
We also hypothesise that shunting a coil is better than hanging from hot, in terms of noise pick up. Im currently thinking that this needs more investigation to try to prove this or not.
Any of these ways of switching a coil, disconnecting one or both ends, leaving one on hot, or ground, or shunting it, all sound the same in terms of the tone. The issue is what is the quietest in terms of picking up unwanted buzzes.
The real key to getting these complex schemes to work their best is a good shielding and grounding scheme for the cavity.
I applaud your effort to optimise these schemes. I recall that when I started on my design (ToneMonster 2), i needed to go to a shunting arrangement in series in order to get down to just a 4 pole series/parallel switch. There were already a diagram or two on the net of Brian May designs with 6-pole switches, which are not standard.
Also, I complletly agree with you that making the playing operation optimum, as you see it, is far more important than saving a switch pole or two. after all, you will build this once, but will play it every day.
cheers
John
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Post by aroberts8089 on Jul 28, 2010 10:10:45 GMT -5
John, Thanks again for the additonal explanation concerning shunting, hanging coils and bypass. My intuition said bypass and hanging from ground were the best options for noise, but I wanted confirmation on that (can never assume) Here is my new diagram that I am to be honest way too excited about: so it probably has problems I can't see. I was looking at my previous mod of your switching system and I thought I found another way to run the parallel hot to the series/parallel switch and that opened up the possibilities. I now have it set up so all pickups are totally bypassed in series and in parallel, the neck pup is bypassed, but the bridge and middle hang from ground. This seems pretty clean to me. All the on/off switches seem a bit more identically wired as well. I think the real advnace came in the series parallel switch - it seems a lot more intuitive to me now - very straigtforward. with some monor additional juggling I also managed to get the added bonus of one more setting with a 4pdt on/on/on. Bridge and Middle in series with the neck in parallel. makes it pretty easy to switch between some more complex options. Like I said before I am pretty certain this is correct and clean, but I can't tell for sure and am second guessing myself. If you see any flaws please let me know. Awaiting comments with a bit of trepadition. At some point after I wire it up and confirm it works, I will post a better diagram of my complete wiring scheme as it would look from the bottom of a "dummy wiring board". Thanks again JohnH for all you help and direction in this - it is greatly appreciated. Andrew Roberts
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peterrabbit
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Post by peterrabbit on Jul 28, 2010 19:34:14 GMT -5
Hello aroberts8089 and JohnH! I just came across this thread and thought I'd throw in my .06 cents (inflation). I've been working on a system with 5 single coils with, for each pickup - on/off, phase, and parallel/series - this hasn't been tested yet, but it it be worth a look: Good luck Peter P.S.: If any body sees any problems with mine, please let me know - I'm definately still learnin'!
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Post by newey on Jul 28, 2010 22:40:07 GMT -5
PR-
I don't want this thread to get off onto your scheme, which is certainly elaborate and likely to generate some comment. Please repost it as a separate thread in E&W and we can discuss it there, rather than hijacking Andrew's scheme, which still needs to be vetted.
My first question is: Why there is a 220K resistor in parallel with a .001µf cap wired across your string ground? Shouldn't that be across the volume control for treble protection?
But again, please answer the question in a separate thread. Thanks!
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peterrabbit
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Post by peterrabbit on Jul 29, 2010 1:04:03 GMT -5
newey - You are absolutely right, and I will re-post in wiring. My intention was not to hijack the thread, but to offer another way to look at ser/par using 4PDT switches.
Peter
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Post by aroberts8089 on Jul 29, 2010 8:15:26 GMT -5
peterrabbit, I'll just make a quick comment here since I haven't seen a repost of your wiring diagram. Basically the major goal and dilema with my wiring scheme was to get the 7 switch wiring usually found in Brian May parallel conversion down to 4. As interesting as your wiring is (5 pickups is insane man), for me and the way I design my instruments, it just requires to many switches per pickup. I'll comment more when you post it up in its own thread.
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Post by JohnH on Jul 29, 2010 8:38:52 GMT -5
ar8089 - looks good! You seem to have solved the trick of switching on/off in series without shunting. I had a stare at the diagram and cant find a fault. If you build it and it works, then I think you have made a good onward step in guitar wiring technology!
Couple of points: I think the design is also valid, and probably more widely appealing, in a reduced dpdt version, without the phase switching poles Your middle series/parallel option is interesting, with four extra sounds. If you reverse-phase either the B or the M, the results should be hum-cancelling. Alternatively, you could reconfigure to make a hum cancelling in-phase combo with M in parallel with N and B in series. cheers John
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Post by ashcatlt on Jul 29, 2010 15:30:26 GMT -5
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Post by JohnH on May 18, 2013 20:48:31 GMT -5
John, Thanks again for the additonal explanation concerning shunting, hanging coils and bypass. My intuition said bypass and hanging from ground were the best options for noise, but I wanted confirmation on that (can never assume) Here is my new diagram that I am to be honest way too excited about: so it probably has problems I can't see. I was looking at my previous mod of your switching system and I thought I found another way to run the parallel hot to the series/parallel switch and that opened up the possibilities. I now have it set up so all pickups are totally bypassed in series and in parallel, the neck pup is bypassed, but the bridge and middle hang from ground. This seems pretty clean to me. All the on/off switches seem a bit more identically wired as well. I think the real advnace came in the series parallel switch - it seems a lot more intuitive to me now - very straigtforward. with some monor additional juggling I also managed to get the added bonus of one more setting with a 4pdt on/on/on. Bridge and Middle in series with the neck in parallel. makes it pretty easy to switch between some more complex options. Like I said before I am pretty certain this is correct and clean, but I can't tell for sure and am second guessing myself. If you see any flaws please let me know. Awaiting comments with a bit of trepadition. At some point after I wire it up and confirm it works, I will post a better diagram of my complete wiring scheme as it would look from the bottom of a "dummy wiring board". Thanks again JohnH for all you help and direction in this - it is greatly appreciated. Andrew Roberts This revives an old thread, in response to a polite request from a recent member, relativity, received by PM. The request was whether the three pickup series/parallel wiring with toggles/slide switches, as described as an extention to a Brian May Red Special wiring, could be further extended for humbuckers, each with an S/P switch Yes it can. But the further request was whether this could be done without adding any more switches. I recalled the above very clever diagram by A Roberts, which combines phase with on/off using 4-pole on/on/on toggles. I used it as a base to add the local S/P modules and a basic Volume and Tone circuit. I checked it before, but I think it needs another independent check - since the whole thing is way complex. I hearby invite and request anyone who would like to to trace through a setting or two! A Roberts found a possible nice Easter egg in a middle position on the main Series Parallel switch, giving a combined series/paralel combo. Can anyone see an issue with this? it could be replaced with a standard 2 position 4 pole toggle. cheers John ps And welcome to GN2 Relativity, our new member
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Post by Yogi B on Sept 3, 2013 15:18:36 GMT -5
Invitation accepted John, although originally unintentionally. Whilst converting this layout to use three 3p3t slide switches for on/off/OoP (as having the off position anywhere other than in the centre would be unintuitive to me), I have, as far as I can tell, come across a potential issue when in the "Easter egg" position, namely:
bridge - on (or OoP), middle - off, neck - on (or OoP),
results in only the neck pickup being selected (and the bridge hanging from hot) rather than the bridge and neck in parallel (or in parallel OoP) as might be expected. This isn't necessarily a major issue as that isn't a unique selection; but it is far from intuitive especially when you consider that if from this state you turn the neck pickup off also, the bridge pickup then (magically) comes back to life.
I cannot currently devise a way to remedy this without needing another pole on the on/Z/on 4pdt used for series/mixed/parallel (or maybe series/scrambled/parallel would be a better description in this instance) which would increase the scarcity and expense of such a switch. Anyhow I am futilely continuing to try and draw such a diagram, but probably will be ultimately beaten to it (and now another egg based pun, how marvelous).
Yogi
P.S. Hi y'all!
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Post by JohnH on Sept 3, 2013 16:51:11 GMT -5
Welcome to GN2 and thanks for posting and for checking this design Have you built this yet?
If you have made the off position of each pickup switch in the centre, then im curious because it is not obvious how to do that. This would make the two outer settings both 'on' (one of them on oop) but as drawn, the switch poles that do this would want to be in different positions in the outer settings, so would tend to do on and off.
My view on intuitive operation was that reverse phase is for very occasional use. The middle position on three-position toggles needs some care to set while playing, while the outer positions can be engaged with a crude 'flick'. So my thought was that on and off were best on the outer settings, and this seemed to work easier with the way the switches work.
Anyway, please stick around! Tricky wiring puzzles pop up regularly around here J
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Post by Yogi B on Sept 3, 2013 18:46:46 GMT -5
Unfortunately I haven't built it yet, although I do intend to at some point. As far as the order of 'on', 'Oop', and 'off', I think I favour 'off' in the centre for three reasons: firstly, as you say the centre position is harder to engage with a flick and thus you are less likely to end up switching everything off during a moment of musically caused physical exuberance; secondly it goes back to playing with motor operated toys when I was younger, such as cranes: where the centre position of a remote control would be 'off' and upwards/downwards would be either side; finally I use out of phase sounds much more than I probably should . Modifying to my own preferences I changed the 4PDTs to 3P3Ts, this almost exclusively forces me to use slide switches (which I don't see as a bad thing) for the individual on/off/OoP switches, however I'm currently sticking with the idea of using a 4PDT toggle for series/parallel, but I wouldn't be against using a rotary switch of some kind if it was the only option. Anyway I think I'd better post my diagram ( NOTE: I've mirrored it horizontally from the versions previous):
Finally I would like to say I intend to stick around on this board and within its wonderful community if, at least, for nothing more than as a way to let the urges of my inner guitar nut manifest themselves . Yogi
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 30, 2018 23:14:03 GMT -5
Unfortunately I haven't built it yet, although I do intend to at some point. I never did, it evolved into something else -- I decided I didn't have much want for the centre B ×M + N position, especially if it didn't work perfectly.
To minimise noise in solderburn's thread (which uses this switching arrangement at its core), and to ensure any progress made gets added back into this original thread, I'm posting this here. Anyway, whilst I haven't yet discovered a way around the issues of the centre position of the series/parallel toggle, I have noticed that the lower right two terminals of the bridge and middle off/OoP/on switches seem as though they could be permanently connected without ill effect. Thereby eliminating two wires going between the off/OoP/on switches and the series/parallel switch, and freeing up two terminals of the latter. While it is an improvement, I currently fail to see how this is helpful towards attaining the overall goal. Here's the change applied to the diagram:
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Post by Yogi B on Oct 31, 2018 12:57:04 GMT -5
Here's a partial truth table of the problem area, note the ordering of the switches ( middle, neck, bridge): Switches | Result |
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Mode | Middle | Neck | Bridge | Current | Goal |
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Mixed | Off | OoP | Off | -N | -N | OoP | -N (B- hanging from hot) | -(B + N) | On | -N (B+ hanging from hot) | B + -N | On | Off | N | N | OoP | N (B- hanging from hot) | -B + N | On | N (B+ hanging from hot) | B + N |
Taking advantage of the terminals gained via the method described in my previous post, and rejigging those poles on the mode toggle I can get the opposite behaviour i.e. fixed in the positions where the above is incorrect, but incorrect where it is above fine. Here's the diagram for that: And the same partial truth table: Switches | Result |
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Mode | Middle | Neck | Bridge | Current | Goal |
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Mixed | Off | OoP | Off | Nothing (-N & output shorted) | -N | OoP | -(B + N) | -(B + N) | On | B + -N | B + -N | On | Off | Nothing (N & output shorted) | N | OoP | -B + N | -B + N | On | B + N | B + N |
Although there is an additional caveat that now we've introduced the middle pickup hanging from hot, in series mode when only the neck pickup is selected, i.e.: Switches | Result |
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Mode | Middle | Neck | Bridge | Current | Goal |
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Series | Off | OoP | Off | -N (M hanging from hot) | -N | On | N (M hanging from hot) | N |
So still not a solution that is arguably any better that what we already had, but just maybe it'll help in finding an answer.
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Post by JohnH on Oct 31, 2018 15:45:34 GMT -5
Yogi I can see you are a guy who loves to solve a puzzle! So how should we wire up an end to global famine + lasting world peace, all in series with a unified field theory of space and time? No rush, Monday will be fine!
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Post by reTrEaD on Oct 31, 2018 18:32:08 GMT -5
Finally I would like to say I intend to stick around on this board and within its wonderful community if, at least, for nothing more than as a way to let the urges of my inner guitar nut manifest themselves . Yogi I reckon you did.
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Post by reTrEaD on Oct 31, 2018 19:03:03 GMT -5
So how should we wire up an end to global famine + lasting world peace, all in series with a unified field theory of space and time? Hey John, I found something from an old friend of yours. It doesn't hit all your stated goals but it's a good start. Six switches rather than four but it adds a few extra combinations. Now we are ready to tie the whole thing together. the switches on the left are DPDT on-on for Phase. the switches on the right are 4PDT on-on-on for Series/Off/Parallel. So, what will (and won't) it do?:00 - All-Off 01 - Neck 02 - Middle 03 - Bridge 04 - Neck + Middle 05 - Neck + Bridge 06 - Middle + Bridge 07 - Neck + Middle + Bridge 08 - Neck * Middle 09 - Neck * Bridge 10 - Middle * Bridge 11 - Neck * Middle * Bridge 12 - (Neck + Middle) * Bridge 13 - (Neck + Bridge) * Middle 14 - (Middle + Bridge) * Neck And, of course, the OoP permutations of the above. Before you ask: there are 27 possible combinations of 3, 3-position switches. Above there are only 15. What happened to the other 12? Since this is Series Dominant, if Neck is selected as parallel, and Middle is selected as series (it doesn't make sense to say 2 pickups are in series and in parallel), the result is Neck * Middle. You can see that there will be redundancies. But as long as you understand the "rules" there will be no surprises. there are 3 mixed combos, that it WON'T do: A - (Neck * Middle) + Bridge B - (Neck * Bridge ) + Middle C - (Middle * Bridge ) + Neck If you select any of the above, there is no pickup in agreement with the one that is selected in parallel. Therefore, you get all 3 in series. This is NOT a wiring error. One of the phase switches could be omitted, but I think the operation is simpler, by having them all. This design can be reduced for 2 pickups, but that would be ridiculous! There are much simpler ways of doing series and parallel combinations for 2 pickups. This design can also be expanded to as many pickups as you want. This could be a very useful design for 4 or 5 pickups. (Edited by JohnH 20/01/2010 to restore diagrams)
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