|
Post by rebel082002 on Sept 3, 2010 3:11:37 GMT -5
I have wired the toggle switch and am getting 3 different tones that seem to be the series/split/parallel sound I was looking for but the pick-ups output put is very low. What could I have done wrong?
Solder joints look good.
Grounding issue?
|
|
|
Post by newey on Sept 3, 2010 5:12:34 GMT -5
Rebel-
Hello and welcome!
When you say the output seems low, is that true in all 3 switch positions?
Is this the only pickup on the guitar? Is the output from other pups OK?
If the answer to both these questions is "yes", better post a diagram of how you wired it, or perhaps some close-up photos, for further elucidation.
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Sept 3, 2010 11:04:47 GMT -5
First, check the pickup height. Then measure the dc resistance across the output jack in each position. Then do what newey said.
|
|
|
Post by rebel082002 on Sept 3, 2010 16:11:07 GMT -5
the Tele has a SD 1959 HB in the neck position and the SD lil '59 in the bridge. The output in the other pickup is fine. The Bridge output is just poor. This should not be the case as Seymour Duncan rates the lil '59 as a "HOT" pickup at 17K and the full size 1959 as "Moderate" at 9K. It is wired just as SD suggest. Although the bridge might not be grounded correctly. Could this be the problem? Please see SD wiring for lil '59 Series/Split/Parallel below. www.seymourduncan.com/images/products/electric/telecaster/501015-115.pdf
|
|
|
Post by newey on Sept 3, 2010 19:36:52 GMT -5
A bad bridge ground might add noise, but shouldn't cause low output. It's not in the signal chain with this type of pickup.
A bad connection is usually an either/or proposition, but sometimes a solder joint can have a high resistance which might cause this type of problem. Sometimes hitting each solder joint with an iron can fix the problem.
Other than that, I have nothing else to suggest. Did you check the resistance of the pickup before you installed it? Are you sure you're getting both coils (i.e., tap test)?
|
|
|
Post by rebel082002 on Sept 3, 2010 23:31:07 GMT -5
Whats a tap test?
|
|
|
Post by newey on Sept 4, 2010 0:07:39 GMT -5
Sorry, I should have explained.
With the guitar pulled into an amp (and the amp on), tap each coil with a metallic object such as the end of a screwdriver. An active coil should give a fairly loud "thunk". In a HB, a non-active coil will still sound out a bit, (due to vibrations transmitted to an active coil), but not nearly as much as an active coil.
You want to do this in all your switch positions, to check that you are in fact getting the coils you should be. Simple to do, and quickly eliminates a disconnected or non-functioning coil as a source of the problem.
|
|
|
Post by ashcatlt on Sept 4, 2010 9:19:05 GMT -5
Resistance numbers tell us very little about how a pickup will perform. If all other things were equal, we would expect more output from the bigger resistance. All other things are not necessarily equal in this case, though.
Now that it's installed, resistance measurements can help us to make sure your switching is working correctly. It's more precise and reliable than the "tap test". I personally find it easier - less chance of false positves, plus tapping won't tell you the difference between.series and parallel.
Did you check the pickup height yet? That's the quickest and easiest fix. You'd be surprised how many times we've seen this same type of problem and fixed it with the turn of a couple screws.
|
|