I currently have a strat that's been wired to be identical to a Clapton strat (schematic below) with Lace Sensor Pickups. I'd like to be able to wire it to have a Neck-On mini switch, as well as two other mini switches for serial wiring. One switch will switch it from the normal five way setting to a series setting, and the other will switch it to Neck+Mid Series or Bridge+Mid Series.
I know that I might be able to use push/pull pots, but I'd prefer to add mini switches do to the look of them. I'm still thinking about possible phase switching, but I'm afraid that I'd add them and later regret it. I've been told that it's not worth it. How do you feel about it?
I tried drawing the schematics myself but I'm rather inexperienced and I'm not sure where to place things with that circuit in there. You guys know way more than I do, and I'd really appreciate any advice or help.
like to be able to wire it to have a Neck-On mini switch,
So far, so good.
as well as two other mini switches for serial wiring. One switch will switch it from the normal five way setting to a series setting, and the other will switch it to Neck+Mid Series or Bridge+Mid Series.
This sounds like the Random Hero mod you linked to from 1728.com (our friend wolf's site).
So, you want the RH mod with a "neck on" switch? You've already got the necessary modules. The neck on switch would be wired "across" the 5-way switch, just as you have shown it in the diagram. In the RH diagram, the 5-way switch is shown with only one pole, since only one is used for the switching. The pole, or common, lug is the one spaced a bit further away from the first three, the lowest one vertically as shown.
Note that the "Neck On" switch will only give you the neck on in parallel with the 5-way switch selection. To get the neck in series with the Mid, you have to manipulate SW1 and SW2. You won't get neck in series with the bridge, since the RH mod doesn't encompass the BR and N combo.
There are other schemes that might simplify things a bit, given that you want the neck off switch. There are ways to give the neck in series with the Br as well, if you want that combo.
I'm still interested in having a Neck-On Switch for parallel switching, but would it be possible to use a three way switch for Switch 2 in the Random hero mod? Switch 1 would still activate it, but switch 2 would select Neck and mid in series, Neck and Bridge in series, or Bridge and Mid in series.
but would it be possible to use a three way switch for Switch 2 in the Random hero mod? Switch 1 would still activate it, but switch 2 would select Neck and mid in series, Neck and Bridge in series, or Bridge and Mid in series.
The short answer is no, for several reasons. But first, we should review the RH scheme and what it does, since there seems to be a lack of clarity.
SW1 does not "activate" SW2 in Rh's mod- it's sort of the other way around.
With SW2 in the down position, the 5-way switch is connected to the output. SW1 does nothing with SW2 down. You get the normal Strat parallel combos off of the 5-way switch.
Flip SW2 up, and the mid pup is put into series, with SW1 determining whether it is in series with the neck or the bridge. In this setting, the 5-way switch is disconnected from the output and does nothing. This is one of the nice features of RH's scheme, the series settings are not dependent on having the 5-way in a particular position.
Because one pole of SW2 is used to connect/disconnect the 5-way switch, that pole is unavailable for a series setting as you are proposing. While another scheme might use that pole for a series setting, it wouldn't be the RH mod anymore . . .
The other main reason it won't work is that a three-position toggle is, AFAIK, only available in a DP configuration, either "center on" or "center off". Putting 3 series options among three different pickups is going to require more than 2 poles, and probably more than 3. In other words, you can't do it with that switch, and the switch you would need doesn't exist. At least, it doesn't exist in toggle form- rotary and lever switches are a different story, but then you have fitment issues and/or bigger holes to drill.
However, you should look at the RH diagram again. Notice that it is the middle pup that is switched into series, or alternatively, onto the 5-way switch. One could rewire it such that it was the neck pickup instead of the mid that was controlled by SW2 (and SW1), thus giving the neck in series with the mid or with the bridge, but losing the mid * Br ("*" meaning a series connection). This would give you the N * Br, but not N + Br.
What I was mulling around (and where this was leading) was whether a DPDT "center on" switch could replace SW2, using the neck instead of the mid pup as the base of the series chain, and whether that switch could be wired to give you the 5-way switch in one position, the 5-way plus the neck always on in the center position, and the neck in series via SW1 in the up position. I'm not sure that can be done, however. If it can, it would eliminate the need for a separate "Neck On" switch.
Thanks for the help so far, Newey, I really appreciate it.
After thinking about it, I think I'd like to go with having both the Neck-on mod and the RH mod in my set up, even though they won't be "connected."
I hate to ask you for more help when you've already helped me a lot so far, but would you mind proofreading the schematics when I try drawing them again? Do you have any advice on how to draw it? I tried drawing it once before but I got confused with how things are placed in my current setup. Do you think this is something I could soldier myself, or should I bring it into my local shop?
We'll be happy to vet your diagram. And I don't mean the "royal we"; I'll look at it and hopefully someone else will double-check me on it.
I don't know your level of confidence with a soldering iron; certainly, if the entire prospect of tackling this yourself gives you the vapors, you should take it to your local tech.
But you can probably do this if you want, and we can offer some advice if you have questions. There's a lot more satisfaction when you wire it yourself and it works- although some troubleshooting should always be anticipated in these things.
In the RH mod, the middle pup is wired to SW2. then SW2 is wired to the 5-way. You haven't disconnected the middle pup, you've left it wired to the 5-way.
Also, the right-side (as shown) center lug of SW2 is shown going directly to the output jack- I assume to the tip of the jack, but it's unclear which wires are which to the jack. This bypasses the V and T controls, which is not, I think, what you want. That center lug needs to go to the hot side of the V pot.
Those are the things I saw at first glance; there may be more. But please redo this. I suggest losing the Clapton Strat graphic that you are trying to superimpose this onto, as it's too difficult to tell what wires go where. Just draw it as a module, leave all the V and T stuff out of the picture for now, just label the wires that go in and out of the module as wolf has done in his drawing of the RH mod.
Post by vegetablejoe on Oct 19, 2010 3:13:35 GMT -5
agbasp, while I'm no good at electronics and wiring, I can appreciate that you seek additional tones via wiring combinations. While that is achievable to one extent or another, differences in tones and settings are easier/better detected and appreciated when playing cleanly.
From my experience with my "Claptonized" strat (i.e., strat + midboost kit + Kinman pups), the midboost will definitely color whatever tone settings you are going for (even at min. boost). To my ears the midboost takes away the sweet quack of the 2&4 positions and replaces those with varying shades of grit from muddy to steely treble (at least above 50% on the boost).
Therefore, imho, if you want to hear all the nuances possible via your wiring combinations, you may be better off beginning your wiring experiments on a strat without a midboost.