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Post by wolf on Oct 17, 2010 18:08:18 GMT -5
Ashcatlt referred to this in this thread: guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=wiring&action=display&thread=5265And I'll credit borsanova with originating the term Broadbucker. I did a lot of searching on the Internet and wasn't able to find very much on this. Or should it be wired like this? I know I have seen this wired for two humbuckers in series with the capacitor in the middle. Anyway, since this is Guitar Nuts™, maybe we can come up with a somewhat definite diagram.
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Post by newey on Oct 17, 2010 18:22:19 GMT -5
The 2 wirings are equivalent, depending on which coil one wishes to have "shine through" the other.
One could also use a switch to select which coil gets the cap.
Without ever having done this, I would guess that, with a bridge HB, one would want the coil closest to the bridge to be the one without the cap across it, to preserve (potentially) more of the highs.
Also, how is this different from what we have called the "half out-of-phase" mod?
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Post by wolf on Oct 17, 2010 23:29:22 GMT -5
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Post by JohnH on Oct 18, 2010 3:43:49 GMT -5
This 'capacitor bypassed' effect I use on this design, under the control of the tone pot: guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=schem&action=display&thread=4571I found it was nicer than simple coil cut on the bridge pickup, but I prefered the full coil cut on the neck. The second sound sample on that thread demonstrates it, although I dont have a direct comparison to a single bridge coil John
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 20, 2010 8:59:00 GMT -5
Also, how is this different from what we have called the "half out-of-phase" mod? Well, now that yew has so kindly bumped the Half Out of Phase thread I can answer that question. Here's the module from that thread: This is meant to go across one of a parallel pair of pickups. When it's flipped toward the top lugs everything is normal. Flip toward the bottom, and you get the pickup out of phase and with a series capacitor, which will cut bass from that one pickup. Since these lowest frequencies are the ones most likely to cancel in an OoP situation, removing them from one pickup should allow those from the other to come through without being cancelled. The higher frequencies will have that comb filtering effect we expect from OoP. So it would still be kind of weird, just not as thin as the standard POoP. This won't work so well when the two pickups are in series, since the cap would then be in series with both, cutting bass from both, and sort of mooting the point. I can accomplish this with my Rick by putting the Mode switch to POoP and flipping on the Strangle switch. I'll give it a try here sometime after I scrape the blood off of it. (Yes, I'm that lazy!) BTW - My Rick does broadbucker of several different sorts between it's two SCs, it's not exactly the same as when done between the two coils of an HB, but I posted sample intended to show the different forms over in the Sound Samples a while back.
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Post by wolf on Oct 21, 2010 3:57:25 GMT -5
Okay, maybe it's time to start coordinating some graphics, deciding on what to call each circuit, and so on. For the graphic at the top of the page, JohnH called it a "capacitor bypass" effect. ************************************************** This next circuit was drawn by yew and is in a thread located here: guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=schem&thread=5216&page=1To make it a little easier to follow, I redrew it: Seems this should have a name attached to it too. As a matter of fact, I don't know exactly what this is supposed to do. **************************************************** Finally, I decided to redraw the graphic in the previous posting.
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 21, 2010 10:43:31 GMT -5
wolf, I think your version of yew's diagram should indicate where the + and - outputs are. It's an attempt at the broadbucker thing, but it's a bit weird. It looks to me like it lets the highs from the bridge pickup bypass the neck via the one cap but then shunts them to ground via the other. If the two were of different values, it might work to some extent, but I don't really see the point.
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Post by wolf on Oct 21, 2010 23:00:07 GMT -5
Okay, I redrew the last graphic: I didn't put the location for the output because I'm not exactly sure where it would go. (Bottom Left terminal + and Bottom Right terminal minus ?)
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Post by ashcatlt on Oct 22, 2010 0:50:04 GMT -5
From what I'm getting from the original, looks like the bottom of the bridge goes to - and the top of the neck goes to +.
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Post by wolf on Oct 22, 2010 2:53:16 GMT -5
AshcatltYes, I needed that explanation because I'm used to seeing circuits that go to the output jack from the switch. So I redrew it yet again: I also drew in the circuit that is formed when the switch is in the "down" position.
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Post by roadtonever on Apr 26, 2011 12:35:11 GMT -5
Can any of the diagrams above be used to switch between capX/capY/bypass?
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Post by roadtonever on Apr 27, 2011 12:28:35 GMT -5
My noob-ish question boring to you guys? I realize my question wasn't very clear in the first place. I want to use a DPDT 'on-on-on' or 'on-off-on' to switch between two different cap values and bypass for the broadbucker function. Has this been drawn? If not could someone tell me which wires and leads go to which lugs, please?
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Post by newey on Apr 27, 2011 14:00:06 GMT -5
rtn-
No, the boring ones we deal with right away! I'm still thinking on this one, should be doable with an on-on-on, but not at all obvious!
Let me get home from work and see what I can come up with.
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Post by newey on Apr 27, 2011 18:51:38 GMT -5
OK, I think this is what you're after, RTN. It's a DPDT Center On switch, the blue arrows on the switch show the internal connections in the center position. With the switch "up", you get the bypass, normal HB. With the switch "down", you get one coil through cap #1; with the switch in the center, you get the same coil through 2 caps in series. Cap values are "season to taste". Anyway, I'm throwing this up for discussion more than anything else, but I think it will work. OTOH, consider my track record!
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Post by roadtonever on Apr 28, 2011 9:35:12 GMT -5
Awesome! I'm placing an order for the correct part. Can't wait to try this out.
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Post by newey on Apr 28, 2011 13:30:13 GMT -5
Well, let's not get too carried away, let's let someone else make sure I'm right on this first!
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Post by ashcatlt on Apr 28, 2011 16:22:42 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure that works there, newey. There might be some popping as the caps are switched, but I don't see any way around that.
You could put a variable resistor between the series link and the switch or between the switch and ground for...uh...variability if desired.
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